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ignition fuse number 4 keeps popping


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was all fine. put engine back in and now when turning key (not cranking) ignition fuse keeps popping.

i know it's rated on 15 amps but i had 3 amp on it, running gauges, aem fuel gauge and fuel pump and was fine.

 

now its popping 3 amp fused, put a ten amp in and popped that, should i put 15amp in and try it?

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those three wires on connector 28 were cut and loosely taped together. i just undid the tape and they were touching each other. i separated them and put a 3amp fuse instead of a 15amp and it did

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removed gauges, fuel pump supply, 

just put a 3 amp and a 10 amp fuse and a 15amp and popped on it's own. 

 

even removed windscreen wiper fuse from box. unplugged a few cables which come from the starter motor end.

tightened earth strap to engine.  

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removed all fused except engine electronics and still pops. a mechanic has told me it's probably the ignition switch it self( where key goes into)

all fuel injectors are not been used as running on carbs. no lambada sensor either.

 

theres not much wiring to check.

 

IGNITIONswitch.JPG.9087043c877ccac05cbd7ad5cf04f4dd.JPG

Edited by damunk
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nige8021

If it didn't blow before you removed the engine, and it does now, you need to re-check everthing you did when you refitted the engine

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I refitted another engine and it blew 'once' before i removed engine again. i wondered why this was, i just popped another fuse in and started the engine and didn't think much of it. ... then i took the engine out, engine was out for a few weeks then put back in and now popping everytime.

 

i got haynes manual for 6n. , only wiring that's been tossed about is the main loom in engine bay that has fueling and coil cables. they arnt been used.

 

i did clean the cables with damp cloth when engine went in originally.

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FUSE F4 is blowing so does that mean its shorting out where I have marked in red as that is the only things that is link to F4 and from where the power is drawn to or from?All those marked in a sqaure have been removed as not required for carb setup

WIRING.thumb.JPG.c5a16190afff345e32de36d79bc6611b.JPG

Edited by damunk
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nige8021

If you have removed the OEM coil system then the wire from fuse 4 should be going nowhere but it obviuosly is as it's pulling a hefty current and blowing the fuse, that said those are the diagrams from the book of lies, so it's quite possible there is somethning else connected to that wire

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those three wires on connector 28 were cut and loosely taped together. i just undid the tape and they were touching each other.

i separated them and put a 3amp fuse instead of a 15amp and it did not pop. tried it three times. so hopefully that was the problem.

 

dont know how or why the car ran good for a year or so. i must have squeezed the tape for them to make proper contact.

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please solder them individually and cover each in heat shrink

or use insulated crimped butt connectors

or use a superseal 3 way connector

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/1237/large-superseal-weatherproof-connectors

 

Would hate you to have an engine fire.

Edited by dvderlm
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