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Car cut out which carb can I replace solex with

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Okay so my car cut out again this morning, started fine, idled fine half choke and drove off fine, wouldn't rev high whilst on choke, wouldn't idle whilst off choke, then 100 yards down the road cut out and wouldn't start, just kept turning over and turning over for about 5 minutes then eventually started to pick up and started again. I must be getting air in from somewhere on the carb as I've tried richening up the mixture to no avail, gunsons colourtune shows no change in colour no matter hkdow far you adjust the mixture screw and gas tester shows .6-1.1 co  on idle, plugs are white 

This makes me think that its carburettor issue causing the cutting out and not starting unfortunately I didn't have a spark plug with me to check if I had spark when it cut out 

So I've been considering changing the solex out for a Weber but I'm not sure which is suitable I've seen people mention 32tla but is a 32tlm for a 950cc fiesta the equivalent?

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  • Danwedges


  • dvderlm


Sorry to hear that.


Yes Weber 32TLM is the manual choke version of the 32TLA (automatic choke).


Ford have ball joint accelerator cable usually.


Works well on the 1043.

You might want to reduce main jet to 105


Needs a different mounting flange as the bolt holes are different angle.

Only issue I know of is that the idle wanders up and down a bit. There's an idle stabilisation valve on bulkhead but simple way to connect it to the Weber as far as I know.

I reckon the wander is due to engine design and a heavier flywheel might smooth it but the be sluggish to drive.


A Pierburg 1B3 would also fit, very similar to the Solex pic  - think there's some cross-licensing with Solex or dual-sourcing by VW, but the Weber is the simpler carb. 

Edited by dvderlm
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White plugs is lean and is likely a vacuum leak. 

The base flange is most common fail point, but any braided cloth vacuum tube can be the source of too much air ( so does not suck petrol through the jets no matter how much you twiddle mixture screw).



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I've ordered a later type rubber flange 030129765C I think this is correct for the Weber? Also I will order some new vacuum line is 4mm I'd correct?

Is there any other jets worth changing or just the main jet?

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Flange- If you found that part number from one of my posts yes.

Hose 4mm tube sounds right. Measure twice cut once. 



No, unless you are doing other big mods to improve flow.

Float height will give coarse adjustment.

You drive on idle circuit most of the time.


You could switch to the F96 emulsion tube  VW picked, but I doubt there's much in it. Let us know which tube is fitted to the TLM you get. It's all about the holes.





Edited by dvderlm
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More data: the 950 has a smaller venturi and bigger jets than for 1 litre Ford.




F103 emulsion.


But don't know the float height  for each.

The 950 jets setting is possibly about right for the more efficient Polo engine. I'd fit it - then see how it goes.

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Thanks for all the support I'll be sure to update when it arrives and I'll whack it on and see how it runs before changing any jets ect.

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Just a few questions before I fit this Weber 

There appears to be only fuel in and no return so would i have to blank off the fuel return line or t it into the fuel in line? 

Any ideas what this black plastic thing with the wire to the fitting in the bottom of the carb is?

What are the 2 cast inlets on the bottom of the carb? 

And I assume that bottom fitting is a vacuum take off for the vac advance on the distributor but would I be able to use the vaccum for the heat flap in the air box or not?



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 A swirl pot is better than a t-piece.

Mk2 Golf 1987 item is good, made of metal and not too expensive.

See the source image

Or scrapyard Pierburg 2e carbs have a small plastic or sometimes metal swirl pot.


I can't at the moment remember which of three pipes on pot is feed, return or to carb.


You can use a vacuum take-off for hot air flap so long as it is below throttle flap (constant vac).

Vac advance should be above throttle flap (ported vac) .


 The wire looks like it connects to an idle cutoff solenoid. It'll need 12v at same time as ignition power. It's intended to prevent run-on.

Make sure it works clicks with power applied before you fit it.

I think the black thing with screw thread is just insulator for a ring terminal.

You'll need an earth point from carb to inlet manifold, depending on the carb mount bolts.

Edited by dvderlm
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The 2 cast tubes... not really sure. Can you blow through them?


Ideas: Extra vacuum take offs.

Surely not LPG inlet tubes.


The pulldown unit is connected - it helps starting - opens choke flap from fully closed when engine fires.


Get some flexible tube and join them so there's no leak.

Or 2 lengths straight tube and block far end with a bolt.

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I'm no wiser. Maybe they were drilled through for a different model. 

I'd still blank them. 

Even surgical tapered test tube bung of correct diameter would work.

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Yeah I'll definitely blank them my only other idea was some sort of water fitting to stop carb icing on the fiesta? Not sure.

So when fitting this carb I'll need an earth to inlet manifold, a 12v ignition live to threaded end on black plastic thing, swirl pot for fuel return, vac advance to open vac  and t in another vac line to the one that's piped into white plastic thing for the hot air flap?

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It was stated to be for 86-89 fiesta 950cc but could be mistaken, worst case scenario I put the solex back on Haha thanks for the help

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  • 1 month later...

Finally got the carb on and the car drives much better but still cant get the carb to richen up plugs are still white no matter how much I adjust the mixture screw which is leading me to think either I'm mistaken the screw for the mixture screw ( can anyone confirm where it would be on a Weber 32tlm?) Or the larger air correction jet from the fiesta is letting too much air in? I've sprayed around with brake and parts cleaner and revs didn't change so I dont think its sucking air in from anywhere and the carb is NOS so shouldn't have any blockages although I haven't had the carb apart to check  I've also checked the timing and set it to 5 degrees does anyone have any suggestions? Like I said the car starts fine and drives better than with the solex I just worry about the plugs being white incase a lean mixture damages anything

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