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PeteAbbott

End of my Tether !

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PeteAbbott

Now then,

       I have a 2001 1.4 6n2 Auto Polo which I really have an attachment to. Being retired, my pension does not allow garage rates so I do my best to keep her going nicely by myself.

Firstly she was misfiring and cutting out...........No fault codes ! So having had a similar problem with my Bora years ago I replaced the Crank Sensor, a tad expensive and it did not cure my problem. She starts very well but when I leave her to tick over she will run between 20 to 30 mins and just cut out ! She will easily restart after a few minutes but not right after she has cut out. Aha, now I have two fault codes 

                                          Trim System Too Lean Bank 1 P0171

                                        Engine Start Blocked By Immobiliser P1570

Can the immobiliser be taken "out of the ECU ? "  Would really appreciate your help.

Thanks

Pete (Ipswich)

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dvderlm

Welcome.

 

Just cutting and not restarting until cooled could be the Hall sender in distributor.

But I don't know if a fault code would be recorded.

The engine carries on spinning when sparks stop and the injected but unignited fuel is seen as lean by lambda sensor, because there's plenty of unburnt oxygen.

 

From memory there are other things that cause lean like air leaking at the hard vacuum tube to brake servo.

 

As for the immobiliser it might just be battery in the key fob.

Think they can be deactivated for a fee at a dealer … but I'd be distressed if someone nicked it.

 

 

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steveo3002

is it a single coil pack on those ?  id be thinking about that too

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nige8021

There are companies on eBay that will delete the immobiliser requirement from the ECU for around £60 

13 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Welcome.

 

Just cutting and not restarting until cooled could be the Hall sender in distributor.

 

 

 

No distributor on this engine just a camshaft position sensor and a coil pack, these coil packs are known to suffer from corrosion between the coil and the ignition amplifier bolted to it.

 

Take the engine cover off and have a good close look at all the vacuum pipes connected to the inlet manifold/throtttle body, if there are any splits/cracks it's cheaper to replace them with 8mm silicone tubing from eBay as the OEM rubber is a silly price from VAG, The brake servo vacuum line is as said a known problem but that would be a dealer/TPS to supply

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dvderlm
10 hours ago, nige8021 said:

No distributor on this engine just a camshaft position sensor and a coil pack

Doh!

 

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PeteAbbott

Thanks for the replies. No corrosion on coil pack and the keys do not have a battery in them ? It seems reading through all the forums that there is no definitive answer to this sudden cutting out fault. Hope it is not the immobiliser and the last sensor to replace is the camshaft position sensor. Just a shame that the fault codes cleared and not returned although problem exists. I think it must be temperature related as she will sit ticking over nicely for 20mins or so and suddenly cut out and will restart with engine at the same temperature after a very short time. 

Edited by PeteAbbott
Forgot something !

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nige8021

The corrosion isn't obvious as it's between the removable ignition amp and the main part of the coil pack, so you need to remove the 4 screws that hold the amp onto the main body

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PeteAbbott

Thankyou. Toolbox out and here I go. ( Retirement is a wonderful thing )

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caretakerplus

Welcome to the Forum.

 

You are probably 'on to something' when you say that the problem may be temperature related.

Many engines don't like long periods of idling - and twenty minutes is a fair long time.

Does the coolant temperature climb above the normal (about 90°C) before the engine cuts out?

 

If there are no signs of corrosion as described above and there are no vacuum leaks, and providing that the car otherwise runs OK, I would be tempted not to worry too much.

 

If you do replace the vacuum pipe to the servo, DO NOT use hose for this, as there is a possibility when it is hot and under vacuum that the hose could close up on itself, possibly leaving you without vacuum assistance when braking.

 

Regards

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PeteAbbott

Thanks for the reply. Engine temp stays at 88 to 90 and vacuum line changed with original part. I would not worry about the occasional cut out problem but because it is an auto I do. All it leaves now is a fault with the immobiliser ? Dear little car has only done 71000 miles. Your reply is very much appreciated, thanks.

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PeteAbbott
On 14/05/2019 at 13:21, nige8021 said:

The corrosion isn't obvious as it's between the removable ignition amp and the main part of the coil pack, so you need to remove the 4 screws that hold the amp onto the main body

Hi Nige, can you see the two cracks ? Could this be my problem do you think ?

IMG_20190518_110338.jpg

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PeteAbbott

And now this ! 

IMG_20190518_114546.jpg

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