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Eviljohn

Hi polo people. Hope you're all very well. 

Had chance to pop my head under the bonnet of my stock 1983, 1043cc breadvan yesterday. I don't get any warm air, (not that i need it at the moment anyway,) so decided to investigate. Nothing obviously wrong with top and bottom hoses. Took scuttle tray off, couldn't see anything wrong, gave the inlet/outlet hoses attached to the blower motor a little squeeze and it's as though they were filled with cornflakes. Crunchy. Once i crunched them a bit, they weren't so bad but i'm guessing that isn't a good thing anyway? Has anyone had this before? Is it a case of new hoses? Had the system flushed twice in the 18 months i've had the car, garage that did it said previous owner had used rad seal of some sort. 

Any guidance anyone can give would be awesome. I will be getting it done, just want to know if i need to get new hoses so i can get it all done at once and move on to next thing. 

Thanks for stopping by. Take it easy.

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steveo3002

doubt you will just be able to order all new hoses 

 

if it was mine i would have the heater and main rad out , flush with a hose and see what you think , maybe replace em , you should be able to clean up the hoses once off , and drop the thermostat housing and clean /replace it ....run it up with tap water and flush again , may have to take the rad out if flakes are going around 

 

then once youre happy put some antifreeze in

 

id guess most of the trouble is the heater matrix if the car hasnt been overheating 

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Eviljohn

Rad is only 18 months old. Had it in for something else and the old one decided to empty itself so got a new one. Previous owner decided to ditch the expansion tank so it's a mk1 golf top fill rad. 

It does get warm pretty quickly. There's no warm air out of the dash vents like i would normally get so i can't really push warm air out of the bay when it does warm up.

I'll look at getting it changed over. Salvage what i can. 

Thanks Steve. 

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dvderlm

You do know the dash side vents that can be directed at side windows or your face only give fresh air...

heat blows into footwells or screen from top of dash slits. 

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Eviljohn

Yeah sorry. That's what i meant. I don't get warm air from either the top, (long windscreen,) vent or the lower vents under the dash. Same temp from all vents. 

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caretakerplus

Do remember that when you have got the new coolant in. there is a little bleed valve near where the hoses go into the heater - just open it and let any air out before closing it again.

 

Regards

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Eviljohn

I did wonder what that was for.  Managed to find a heater matrix. Just gotta sort some hoses and i'm on the way. 

I've had issues with other parts in the past not fitting. Is there any/much of a difference between the early breadvan heater matrix and the slightly later? 

An example for context:

I needed to replace my front wiper arm but struggled to find one as mine were the earlier, smaller spline ones, also have a different handbrake system where i have a pulley at the back of the car instead of the long cage assembly.  

I only ask as i have found parts to fix other things and it turns out they didn't quite fit despite only being from a breadvan made a year later. I've already noticed that the bleed valve on my "new" matrix is black, the one on the car is white.

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dvderlm

Yeah skinny splines on the wipers fooled me too. I did not have a problem with replacement heater matrix with a black bleed screw, maybe I was lucky.  

(most white plastic seems to be brittle rubbish nowadays, not fresh nylon) 

Can you cross check part numbers in 7zap for the right year?

 

https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1984-9/8/819-60000/

 

I see the screw has its own part number 861819039 !

Edited by dvderlm

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Eviljohn

What the jazz is 7zap?

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Eviljohn

Just followed the link. Where has this been hiding all my polo life?!?!?

Thanks dude. I have the part number on the "new" matrix. Will cross check it. See what comes up.

Now deciding whether to be a stinge and try and clean the old hosew out or spring for some flexi silicone. Splashed out for flash parts before and been stung cuz they haven't fitted. 

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dvderlm

Clean the old hose if not perished - it will fit if ends have not cut up by someone overtightening jubilee clips.

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zob
8 hours ago, Eviljohn said:

Just followed the link. Where has this been hiding all my polo life?!?!?

It really is a total lifesaver - one of the better places on the internet!

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Eviljohn

Old hoses look okay from what i can see. Just the crunchy stuff inside. If i had to guess, i'd say they've never been taken off. I did manage to nab a load of different sized nylon brushes from work a little while back. May have one that will fit.

Thanks dudes.

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caretakerplus

To be honest, I don't like the sound of the 'crunchy hoses ' (no pun intended)

It sounds very much to me as if the inner layer of rubber has deteriorated - If that is the case, cleaning them out would leave then severely weakened, to the extent where they are likely to fail under normal cooling system pressure - they would probably fail without cleaning them anyway.

Remember that these hoses are under constant pressure, regardless of the heater being turned 'ON ' or 'OFF '

 

Regards

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Eviljohn

To be honest, i would much rather pay out for and fit new hoses, than have something go bang and end up costing way more. I'll get the new hoses anyway. 

Is there a massive difference between wall thickness of the stock hoses and more modern silicone ones? Only because it's the two that go through the firewall. Need to consider clearance. 

Or, can anyone recommend a bendy rubber hose that would fit. Looking at these:

https://www.viperperformance.co.uk/silicone-hoses_9853_flexible-silicone-hose.html

Was gonna get 2m of the 16mm id and replace both hoses. 

I am open to experience. 

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Eviljohn

https://www.thehosemaster.co.uk/super-flexible-rubber-radiator-hose-metre-lengths/

Also found these. Leaning more towards these. Half the cost. As i'm not building a track car, and i'm only potentially replacing two lengths of hose, do i REALLY need silicone?

Again, i'm open to any other options or xp people can give. 

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caretakerplus

I can see what you mean about price difference.

The question that you need to ask about the latter, is what sort of radius this hose will take. If you are unsure that it will take the amount of bend that you need to put on it without it kinking, then you may be better off with the silicone rubber hoses.

 

If you need to enlarge the hole size through the bulkhead, be sure to fit grommets in order to prevent chafing on the hoses.

 

Regards

 

 

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dvderlm

What about Lpg reducer hot water supply hose?

Tends to be kink resistant and super tough - but do re-use the figure 8 gasket through firewall. Like the caretaker says it will rub otherwise.. 

 

https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/16mm-water-coolant-alex-hose-1-meter/
https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/15mm-water-coolant-thunderflex-hose-1meter/

https://www.lpgshop.co.uk/o16mm-water-coolant-parker-hose-1-meter/

 

I have seen convoluted hose for Lpg heat application, but not in 16mm

Edited by dvderlm

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Eviljohn

The bendiest bend i need to bend is this:

20190704_111010.jpg

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Eviljohn

I have plenty of room to make the bend longer, less of an angle. Not particularly fussed about scruffy. I'll take ugly if it works. My bay is not show worthy by any means. Those ones you guys have sent seem pretty good contenders too. 

I have no idea what state the grommet is in. See if i can fine one just in case. Would rather have one and not need it.

Thanks dudes. 

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Eviljohn

Fired off an email to that lpg hose supplier. According to them, the Alex hose will be perfect. And at that price, i can also get a bit more and maybe replace some more of the system hose while i have it apart. 

Thanks for that dvderlm! 

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