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Welding for MOT


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dvderlm

Still can't decide on a MIG welder. Display4top do a gas capable for £99 whose reviews aren't too bad. But a Blackline with Euro torch from RallyDesign is tempting.

 

Prepped with deox gel/clingfilm washed off with water and wire brush and Dremel the edges to clean metal. Ordered a magnetic clamping finger thing.

 

Anyway, here's today's mend with the Kelarc gun at 55Amps with 1.6mm welding rods re-attaching the rear tow loop so it doesn't wobble up and down!

Tried the spot welder but its carbon rod ain't long enough to reach.

Might spot weld from inside the boot.

 

This took 11 half rods, because of access.

 

I need a thinner helmet.

Focus not great, sorry.

 

IMG_20210328_163044_0.thumb.jpg.aa99b262b8dfd797f52017f65930e85c.jpg

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epoxy primer is worth the investment on a car you want to keep ....10x more durable than zinc182 

just the weld on one side should do it    grind it smooth ish and seam sealer it ...what they cant see they cant fail 

Ordered some grey epoxy 1K primer, not here yet.   Got the seam sealer applied in milder weather and covered again with zinc182.  It's flipping sticky stuff. Put some on other awkward s

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dvderlm

Prepped for some reinforcement.

IMG_20210405_123923_8.thumb.jpg.9ff776874429ad8ad5d58f9a72bd5148.jpg

Ready to tack

1715750061_IMG_20210405_141114_62.thumb.jpg.37fc4c788feedfeade272f5ecd3f20b7.jpg

Needs some grinding. 

 

Another repair plate where there was filler and Age Concern plastic bag.

1963035010_IMG_20210405_162601_16.thumb.jpg.552baa29c355d3ce4a0de836a0d937f4.jpg

Going to fill around this.

 

Blowing holes in the really thin rusted-the-other-side metal of the arch.

IMG_20210405_162629_1.thumb.jpg.9ababcd721d249eeec9d62c8e35ed483.jpg

 

Guess that needs even lower amps...

 

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mk2tastic

Repairing thin sheet steel is an absolute mare with a Mig, especially when it’s old and rusty, getting it clean is the worse thing.

 

I’m also forever twiddling with power and feed settings to prevent blowing holes in it.

 

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dvderlm

I can't go below 50amps on my arc welder, but at least I never have to fiddle with wire speed using the Kel-arc pistol and rods.

 

I had cleaned metal for the earth clamp right near to the back where I was working.

Maybe I'll connect the earth clamp to front of the car next time for a bit more resistance.

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steveo3002

did you decide against the mig?    im just a diy messer but my welds look way way more presentable than those

 

id still really strongly suggest looking into getting one if you can manage it  

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dvderlm
On 06/04/2021 at 14:16, steveo3002 said:

id still really strongly suggest looking into getting one if you can manage it 

Thanks for the advice.

Not too bothered about presentability so long as the weld joint has penetrated well.

When I have grinded I can go over it again if there are any holes, dry looking joint sections.

 

I'll pull the car by the tow loop with a winch as a test when I'm done.

Did once push it from behind about a mile back home with a bar hooked in that loop.

 

But anyway I relented and bought an invertor MIG that can do Gas, Gasless (fluxcored) with a Euro pistol,  or MMA with sticks  - or Lift TIG with a different gun. 

 

Still waiting for gas and regulator and 0.6mm wire to have a go with gas.

Some 0.8mm flux-cored wire on the way too. 

Think I need some 0.6mm tips?

 

The current can be set low for MMA (so I can try with the Kelarc until those arrive) and the volts and current is adjustable for MIG. Wire speed is automatic according to power. It even has different setting for CO2 or CO2/Argon mix.

 

IMG_20210409_144719_0.thumb.jpg.98dc1d7c199029e39c4778afd34ef18e.jpg

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dvderlm

Tried some stick welding with this new machine. 38amps will still arc with just a stick, but is happier with 70ish. There's a nice non-sticking to workpiece feature but it interferes with the Kelarc gun a bit.

 

Another repair plate

IMG_20210411_151114_1.thumb.jpg.a4fd82f96d3bfc0078db7229728f63e3.jpg

 

Stick welded and grinded a bit. 

IMG_20210411_180342_7.thumb.jpg.71b5f847dbea15d8fe625db7ba50020f.jpg

Edited by dvderlm
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dvderlm

Got a disposable Argon/Co2 mix gas bottle and a polyurethane tube and a mini regulator

(and a big regulator and hose for large bottle later)

 

Got a pressure gauge.

Think it is 60psi in the bottle when full.


Any idea what pressure the gas should be at weld side (for 0.6mm MIG wire mild steel , not fluxcored)?

Edited by dvderlm
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steveo3002

on the little bottles i just crack it open until you hear the pssst when you pull the trigger , with a gauge 11ltr a min sounds right

 

you could try mig-welding.co.uk myself and optima are on there too ...get some pro advice

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dvderlm

Tacked repair plate number 4 in place with rods and Kelarc.

 

Didn't think to buy a 0.6mm knurled wheel. Not included either. It's 0.8 or 1.0mm so tried with some 0.8mm flux cored Super6 welding wire.

Nicely vacuum packed reel. Tear off the paper roll. Pull tip of the wire out of the side of the reel. Oh no, welding wire spaghetti bowl as it un-spools itself like some mad robot Italian chef. Why does nobody warn about that?

 

Eventually just unwound 3 meters and wound that onto a bobbin avoiding kinks and knots. Shoved the reel in plastic box. Fitted bobbin to machine and fed the wire through the feed unit towards gun by pushing manually and activating the gun trigger. Feed mech would operate, clamping wheel would straighten, but not very good feeding.

 

A-ha moment!

If it says 0.8mm on the visible side of knurled thing, that means the 1.0mm groove is below the wire! Turned it over to be 1.0mm sign showing and that puts the 0.8mm groove in the right place. Super smooth wire feed.

 

Test weld could join 1.5mm steel sheet really nicely.

 

Mig gun could arc in controlled manner down to 28amps with no holes, but a bit too slow on the wire feed once doing the awkward angles of the car. Had to feed about 5cm out first and move gun closer while it sparkled.

 

When the wire would not feed anymore as past the knurled feed mechanism I pulled some more out with mole grips to use about a meter (gun is on 3m lead).

 

Finally packed up and noticed I'd set Welder for 1mm fluxcore welding not 0.8mm fluxcore.

 

IMG_20210421_165446_5.thumb.jpg.4c763b5a5b8c48d74d1aef8adc2ed96d.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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dvderlm

Welder's much easier to control on 0.8mm wire setting with 0.8mm wire.

Managed to fit the whole 1kg reel without getting a garage full of steel birds nest.

 

But I burnt myself when a bow of hot wire flew off,  and then went in to my glove cuff. Hate welding above myself.

IMG_20210425_140448_1.thumb.jpg.4391f669c7cccaa1bea454839caebde1.jpg

Edited by dvderlm
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dvderlm

I hadn't ordered a 0.6/0.8mm knurled wheel, because the advert says that is what the welder comes with. But in fact it has a 0.8/1.0mm wheel fitted.

 

So still not attempted any Argon gas welds.

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dvderlm

and seam sealed and primed and foil-taped ready for filler

IMG_20210502_130440_1.thumb.jpg.2400c12ece1fa190174d73d408044544.jpg

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1vw2many

Help me out whats the foil tape for ? 

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dvderlm

There are holes in the metal that's a bit too thin to weld and nearly impossible to reach behind the tow hook mount.

 

So as a base for the filler, foil tape can be pressed on and sticks in place. Without it you just push loads of filler through a hole.

The garage who last dealt with this corner used a plastic bag in the cavity.

I've used aluminium mesh before to bridge bigger holes, but it nearly always moves or shows through when you sand.

 

Once I coated the tape in filler (edges first), sanded it and and painted with epoxy primer I filled the cavity with Waxoyl through one tiny hole at the top. I'll plug that with PU sealant. 

 

Also trying some XCP rust resist spray coating on the hidden bits - a present from a friend. Had no idea how much it cost.

Best rust inhibitor | How to prevent corrosion on your motorcycle (bennetts.co.uk)

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dvderlm

It needed one more small weld repair at a rear sill jacking point, that I had missed. Use the axle or TCA bar mounts whenever you can.

 

Finally passed the MOT with an advisory:

"vehicle in poor condition and evidence of lots of welding repairs been done and covered in under seal" :badgrin:

 

 

Emissions were pretty good too (twin Dellorto carbs). They have idle air bypass circuitry and I used trusty Gunson Colortune cylinder by cylinder, the vacuum gauge and the wideband sensor 

 

0.501% CO = 14.3 AFR (limit 4.5%)

422 ppm HC                  (limit 1200 ppm)

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steveo3002

engine sounds healthy then...mine with mpi doesnt like running so lean

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dvderlm
Posted (edited)

It's 11:1 compression with swirly squish pistons as standard on the GK, which helps economy and performance. Needs Bosch heat range 5 plugs or they foul though. I'm using Beru UX56 same as Porsche 944 turbo. I've melted cheap 7 range plugs under full load. Runs hot,  92c thermostat and huge rad shared with Santana. The original 22/26 Pierburg 2e3 uses a smaller idle jet than on 19/23 venturi HK, so it might be something fundamental you can't overcome even with MPI. I think ABD is 9.2 CR.

 

Considering the vacuum is only 12inHg with the Dellortos and cam, I have to use Amethyst mapped ignition for more advance.

Edited by dvderlm
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steveo3002

9.5 apparently...i had it pretty lean on the weber , but doesnt seem to like it on mpi ...never mind 

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dvderlm

Can you tell the difference, or is that just from what a gauge says?

Cylinder filling at idle is poor airflow and no indication of conditions are like when throttle wider open. 

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steveo3002

yeah it starts to sound unhappy in the tailpipe  if i go to 14 or leaner , im running it at 13.8 , sounds even nicer at 13 but thats too rich  ...runs at normal afr's above idle

 

ive found some 4 hole pattern injectors that should work , that might improve it as they spray like an aerosol vs water pistol

Edited by steveo3002
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