Jump to content
Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.
Light/Dark Mode Enabled: You can now select the option by clicking the moon/lightbulb in the top right corner!

Changing the battery on a 9N3 Automatic 1.4 2006 model


Recommended Posts

Does anyone have experience of removing the battery from an Automatic 9N3? The terminals and the top casing are relatively easy to disconnect but the automatic CPU is so close to the back of the battery and is screw connected (appears 2 screws) to the top of the cover at the back.  Any suggestions?  Should the terminal block come off first to access the screws CPU to cover; and if so, how do you remove it?

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 9
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • Gill

    5

  • nige8021

    2

  • Pete1

    2

  • Yeti

    1

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

nige8021

First Welcome to the Forum.

 

You need to remove the side cover  then you will see the wiring loom going to the gearbox ECU there is a retainer clip for the loom, remove the loom from the clip, then release the fastners on each end of the ECU and carefully swing it out of the way (Don't disconnect the multiway connector) then you should be able to access the mounting bolt clamp for the battery

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you.  I think we may be looking at a different set up.

 

There is a plastic cradle over the top of the battery with sprag type fixings on to the bottom tray. Picture shows the cover of the gearbox ECU with its associated wiring left - right in the centre of the picture with the ECU mounted vertically with the pins underneath the cover at the top.  It appears it's bolted with 2 flange screws into the plastic cradle. 

 

The two uploaded files (off ebay) show what appears to be the right type of ECU together with its top wiring. The two fixing screws are hidden by the top cover.  How does the cover come off to access them?

 

 

20210124_163618.jpg

CPU 1.pages CPU 2.pages

Link to post
Share on other sites
nige8021

Looking at your picture it's totally different to how the dealers manual shows it 

Link to post
Share on other sites

That looks more like the older 6n/2 setup. I don't think you need to disassemble the plastics. The rest of what I'm about to write is a bit of a guess based on that.

 

If you open the + terminal cover, you should be able to undo the nut on the top of the clamp, that way you can part the fusebox in the cover away from the starter motor lead. The fusebox and the plastics it sits in probably just clamps to the battery with a springy steel band over the top of the battery that pinches it front and back. . You should be able to get to the point where you can lift the steel band and the fusebox about 3 inches, which is enough to get the battery out with a bit of wiggling and patience. 

 

Again, I'm guessing, but the mounting holes on that gearbox control unit look like what VW normally use for pop on plastic clips, rather than screws, so it might be worth giving them a second look. 

 

Worst case, I'd be thinking about unplugging the gearbox ECU, but I don't think you need to do that. 

 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for responding.

We have a Lupo SDI i.e. as Polo 6N2 which the battery fittings are exactly as you describe and we've had a Lupo Auto before which has both engine and gearbox CPUs on the bulkhead.

Youtube link:

 

shows what we have but already disassembled.

Haynes manual (bless them) for 9N non-facelift say the ECU is located on the battery tray. Unlock and disconnect the wiring plug from the ECU then undo the two retaining screws but nobody shows how to get the connector off the ECU pins without damaging them.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Can you post some close-up pictures of the fitting at the nearside end of the wiring connector? I guess you've tried just pulling horizontally towards the wing?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Given it a wiggle and gentle pulling so it moves, but how does it actually come out? There's presumably a directional technique.

20210126_145634.jpg

20210126_145749.jpg

Link to post
Share on other sites

Pull harder left to right in second photo, maybe after warming up a little with a hairdryer carefully to make the plastic less brittle?

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks for your help.  Haven't managed to disconnect or charge the battery yet - it's a tad cold out there right now!  However, we did stick a Noco Boost across the terminals but the car still won't start;  battery is showing approximately 12.2 volts.  It appears we may have a different issue. Showing low compression in all cylinders of around 5 bar with a moderate increase of about half a bar on a "wet test". 

 

The car has had regular maintenance.  Cam belts are on and appear tight.  No dash warning lights or OEBD2 fault codes showing up. Fuel pump sounds.  Car has been running without any issues up to not starting - which was early on a very cold morning.

 

Any suggestions what's caused this apparent sudden loss of compression?

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

Announcements

  • Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines