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Fuse box multi plug


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Any one know how the fusebox multiplug T32 unplugs?

 

Think there are 2 lugs on the side. Squeeze or prise apart.

 

Seeing a kiloohm from yellow dip headlight wire to fuse clip the other side. 

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In the Autodata wiring, Yellow/Black is Left Headlight from fuse#7 and the Right headlight is just Yellow no stripe from fuse 8 

Just a thought, have the relays got back EMF protection diodes across the coil ? as if that went short circuit the current draw would go crazy (but might not blow the fuse) and if that connector was i

A loose connection causes high resistance in a circuit, which in turn creates heat.If the fuse is the correct rating, hasn’t blown and you’ve  not overdone it with the lamp wattages, I’d guess this is

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Disconnected battery earth. Squeeze the clips and that disengages the lugs.

Carefully rock left and right, bit of screwdriver blade leverage.

 

And oh dear. Look at socket 15 of 32. Yeah, that's not going conduct very well.

IMG_20210221_131020_8.thumb.jpg.0824511e1672b7424efcb13765e06d1e.jpg

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Chapter 12 supplement.

 

Looking at the wiring diagram Fig 12.62 page 240 in Haynes, 13 and 15 are joined, if you have dim-dip circuit after August 1986 in UK, connects through to pin7 (of 8) in engine bay which has black on yellow wire.

 

My car is LHD German 1984 and has black stripe on yellow wire from pin 7 on engine side of fuse box.

 

On fig 12.57 for 1985 onwards there's white stripe on yellow from pin 7. 13 and 15 are joined. "ge/ws"

 

 

Nearly same in fig9.24 page 155. for 1983 and 1984 C CL GL and Coupe models. Black stripe on yellow. in track 80  "ge/sw"

 

Ah, I wonder if T32/16 is the other side of the fuse from T32/15...? 

Edited by dvderlm
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Does black stripe on yellow mean dimdip circuit?

 

Never seen a dim dip resistor near the fusebox or battery in my car. 

I remember on a Golf mk2. Green wirewound cylinder thingy.

 

 

 

 

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nige8021

In the Autodata wiring, Yellow/Black is Left Headlight from fuse#7 and the Right headlight is just Yellow no stripe from fuse 8 

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Thanks Nige.

 

Can't work out how it could have melted the area around terminal 15 of the multiplug without blowing a fuse.

 

Might have been like that for decades I suppose. Then oxidised/rusted with not being used? Wrong fuse rating sometime in its life with a short circuited or overpower bulb? I've not used anything over 55Watt bulb. I suppose both dip and main filaments burn when you flash the lights, but main beam is white wire and different terminal (5 and 6).

 

Single blade connector can do 16amps I think. That's 220 watts at 13.8volts. 

 

There should only be enough current flowing to operate relays nowadays since I fit an upgraded headlight loom in 2018. Pretty sure that is all correctly wired.


Last time I lost dipped headlights I replaced the original stalks (dip or main switch is in lower part of the assembly wiper stalk, but moved by upper part indicator stalk) and the X-relief relay.

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nige8021

Just a thought, have the relays got back EMF protection diodes across the coil ? as if that went short circuit the current draw would go crazy (but might not blow the fuse) and if that connector was in poor condition it would be the weakest point and heat up ??

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22 hours ago, dvderlm said:

Thanks Nige.

 

Can't work out how it could have melted the area around terminal 15 of the multiplug without blowing a fuse.

A loose connection causes high resistance in a circuit, which in turn creates heat.If the fuse is the correct rating, hasn’t blown and you’ve  not overdone it with the lamp wattages, I’d guess this is the most likely cause.

 

If they are spade connections it might have spread slightly, especially if they have been removed and refitted a few times, or it could even  have occurred at assembly in the factory, when it was all put together.

 

 

Edited by mk2tastic
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The female connector side of 15 is definitely loose connection now.

State of the roads around here the wire to it probably waggles around over bumps.

 

I've not touched that multi-way plug in the many years I've owned the car.

 

I ran extra low down fogs when I had a front spoiler. I'm sure I disconnected the centre fogs whose 2 way connectors were rusted to pieces. They were on the foglight circuit anyway. 

 

Cleaned connector with a needle file, but it feels very fragile at terminal 15. I suppose once melted a bit there's nothing really solid to tension the finger springy bits against the inserted blade, so it will get hot and melt more.

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Is it possible to run  another wire in from the fuse box and ‘bypass’ the dodgy connector, or even remove both wires to either side of the fuse and install a separate standalone fuse for the circuit?
 

I’ve never  had mine in bits, so I don’t know if this is feasible, you’ll have to forgive me if I’m talking cobblers.😀

Edited by mk2tastic
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steveo3002

you can buy the crimp terminals ...if the housing is beyond repair then depin and swap on a replacement from a scrap car

 

half way down this page

http://polevolt.co.uk/acatalog/Modular_Fuse_and_Relay_System.html?fbclid=IwAR2alB4atZ8q_adCsYXMB0qTPRkbOm2fH-r1Gk0uU4xjFw26giugff8DVLQ

 

Edited by steveo3002
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