Jump to content
Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.

Engine won't start.


RileyMK2F
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just fitted a new ignition coil after my 1993 Breadvan wouldn't start. RAC man came out to check the voltages at different points and found it to be a faulty ignition coil, hence why the new part was fitted. However, when I went to start it up again, it still didn't work. The engine turns over but it just isn't turning on?

Has anyone got any advice from past experiences or knowledge about this? 

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Battery charged?

 

Some other coincidental fault.... what else was touched?

 

You need fuel and spark (at the right time).

 

Buy 4 new plugs as the old ones may be fouled with soot or too wet with petrol or worn. Use one for checking first.

 

Check there is spark by fitting a spare sparkplug in one of the plug leads (pull it off at the rubber boot) , longest lead furthest from distributor is easiest, and resting the plug on bare metal or hold it in a jump lead whose other end is connected to battery negative.

 

Try starting in dusk light or shadow so you can see the sparks jumping at end of plug when you turn the engine over.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quite a few things to go wrong in the electrical side of things.

 

But 1st this to work out is if it is an actual ignition fault or fuel.

 

I concur with dvderlm that pulling a plug lead off is the best place to start. If you haven’t got a spare spark plug stick a round screwdriver into the plug lead and hold it close to a metal part of the engine, but not touching it. . Get someone to crank the engine, you should see a nice juicy spark jumping between the gap. If you do then chances are your ignition system is working.

 

If you don’t then that’s when it gets tricky. Hall senders in the distributor are prone to failing, so that’s one to be aware of. For proper diagnosis of the ignition system you’ll probably need a meter or a test lamp. 
 

Other things to check are the king lead to the distributor. You can disconnect this and do the same trick as the plug lead to see if you get a spark before the distributor and from the coil. Check inside the distributor cap too, it has been known for the centre carbon electrode to disintegrate leading to loss of ignition.

 

It’s worth checking all wires are connected and not broken, which although rare can happen over time.

 

If you have a Haynes Manual that will be useful, if not here’s a diagram of the ignition system and fuel injection 

 

 

86190F1A-9E1F-4738-9867-FFAF56C9BAEA.png

Edited by mk2tastic
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

45 minutes ago, dvderlm said:

Battery charged?

 

Some other coincidental fault.... what else was touched?

 

You need fuel and spark (at the right time).

 

Buy 4 new plugs as the old ones may be fouled with soot or too wet with petrol or worn. Use one for checking first.

 

Check there is spark by fitting a spare sparkplug in one of the plug leads (pull it off at the rubber boot) , longest lead furthest from distributor is easiest, and resting the plug on bare metal or hold it in a jump lead whose other end is connected to battery negative.

 

Try starting in dusk light or shadow so you can see the sparks jumping at end of plug when you turn the engine over.

 

 

Thanks for your reply,

I'm going to have a look at these different things over the weekend to try and figure out a reason. 

This is my first car so hopefully I'll get it sorted soon haha 👍.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

27 minutes ago, mk2tastic said:

Quite a few things to go wrong in the electrical side of things.

 

But 1st this to work out is if it is an actual ignition fault or fuel.

 

I concur with dvderlm that pulling a plug lead off is the best place to start. If you haven’t got a spare spark plug stick a round screwdriver into the plug lead and hold it close to a metal part of the engine, but not touching it. . Get someone to crank the engine, you should see a nice juicy spark jumping between the gap. If you do then chances are your ignition system is working.

 

If you don’t then that’s when it gets tricky. Hall senders in the distributor are prone to failing, so that’s one to be aware of. For proper diagnosis of the ignition system you’ll probably need a meter or a test lamp. 
 

Other things to check are the king lead to the distributor. You can disconnect this and do the same trick as the plug lead to see if you get a spark before the distributor and from the coil. Check inside the distributor cap too, it has been known for the centre carbon electrode to disintegrate leading to loss of ignition.

 

It’s worth checking all wires are connected and not broken, which although rare can happen over time.

 

If you have a Haynes Manual that will be useful, if not here’s a diagram of the ignition system and fuel injection 

 

 

86190F1A-9E1F-4738-9867-FFAF56C9BAEA.png

Thanks a lot for your reply, 

Lots of things to look for over the weekend and maybe parts to order haha.

Hopefully nothing too pricey so I'll have a good look around and do your suggested tests. 👍

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.

Announcements

  • Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines