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  1. Yesterday
  2. V00D00-Driver

    Problem with hydraulic steering?

    So the other day I was trying to impress a few friends of mine by "heating the tyres like they do in f1 and rally, something like this. However, I made a fool of myself because the steering wheel can go very fast in one direction. however when I try to counter steer it almost locks for a second or two. I tried for several times, I grabbed the steering wheel like Colin Mcrae did in the video and put all my body weight into the steering wheel but the thing didn't budge during counter steering. Is this normal? Is my steering box broken? Is my pump not delivering enough fluid? Is the soft springs to blame? Or do I need to invest in a gym membership? Please I need answers, so I can impress my friends with sick tyre warming skills. Thank you.
  3. Well found! Wonder if someone had pulled on the lead not the spark plug boot at some point?
  4. dvderlm

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    95HP at wheels with ~15% transmission loss is ~109HP. You can get theoretical 120HP max at the crank with 34mm inlet valves http://www.wallaceracing.com/hp-valve-size.php And the lift of the 296 will indeed help. The 32mm chokes are smaller than the inlet valve, so that's your tightest restriction and good for your 7500rpm target. Should be fine. WL Motorsport are selling a big valved 306° cammed Polo race engine with claimed 128PS = 126bhp. (I'll guess 58Nm at 8500rpm). So yeah 100 to 110 wheel HP sounds doable. https://www.wlmotorsport.de/teile-fuer-vw-polo-1-und-2-fuer-1-3-l-1-6-l.html The late closing intake valve of the 296 will also keep the Mach index in safe territory. I have 36.2mm inlet valves with the (229° at 0.1mm?) GK cam, which also does not lift exhaust valves as far as it could.
  5. Phil H

    Cam cover bolt

    Have looked on vw breaker sites but nothing so far Has anyone got a cam cover bolt they could sell me please? Many thanks Phil
  6. Thanks for reposnding. The profile pic is my old Polo that unfortunately got destroyed in a fire, midway through some restoration work. The car in question is a 98 , 1.4 - 8 valve and does have a 3 way plug on the dizzy. The intermittent poor running eventually became permanent one day and she was obviously running on three. So having a look under the bonnet when it got dark, I could clearly so a spark where it shouldnt be. There was some deterioration in an HT lead next to the metal sleeve that does over the plug. It was shorting to the metal sleeve. Prior to this becoming a permanent fault, I think there was a small amount of seepage, causing a weak spark. In varying degrees, depending on moisture present. Some silicon and insulation tape had it all insulated again. This was supposed to be a quick, get you running repair. But it has been fine ever since. I will splash out on some new leads at some point. I do think this was a separate issue to the original, conking out at a junction scenario. That did seem like fuel was not getting through for some reason ? But all good for now, so fingers crossed.
  7. Last week
  8. BenGunn

    Op double the power of the ABD!

    Some back to back testing of modifications. Dyno graph 1: The lower line (72.31bhp/128.78nm)shows the first run in the spec I arrived with. That is a 1.4 ABD, using a 1.3 inlet/tb and SPI unit with a gravity 4-2-1. Everything else standard. I then fitted the modded hedgehog (shown in pics) and went again. This picked up 5bhp & 5nm at peak buuuut......at some points it's +6bhp & 10nm(4k rpm)! As you can see from the graph it doesn't lose out anywhere. Dyno graph 2: The lower line shows where we ended up in graph 1. The higher line shows the same spec but now with my homemade induction kit added. Peak bhp almost exactly the same however......peak torque up by 4nm but more importantly, there are points we are +7nm (3250-3500rpm) getting rid of the slight dip in torque. You can also see it picks up 4bhp at the same rpm as the torque increase. As you can see from the graph it doesn't really lose out anywhere bar the tiniest crossover at 2250. Quite surprising to me. Even more interesting was the fact that it actually helped the fuelling in the upper rpm range richening it up a tad. I'm guessing the air speed helping better combustion? Unsure of this but its the best reason I can currently think of. Dyno graph 3: This is the overlay of how I drove in, to how I drove out of the day. Dyno graph 4: This shows the original 1.0 SPI system dyno vs the best combo of mods plus a tin of octane booster in the tank. I didn't get a graph print of with vs without octane booster but I did get the number table of all the graphs shown in no.5. Picked up a couple bhp at points and up to 3nm. It seemed to be very consistent too once we'd let it run for a bit to mix it in. This I'm not bothered about I just had it so thought I may as well try it. Disclaimer: actual numbers I'm not fussed by. 79bhp or 72bhp, one dyno will read different to the next. What I'm concerned with are gains. I used the sane dyno, same sainsburys premium fuel, same tyres/pressures and kept as much as I could exactly the same. Hope you've all found it useful. Can't wait to see all the bald hedgehogs now! 😆 Hit me up with any questions and I'll do my best to answer. Peace
  9. arvest86

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    I’ll do just that, for now i need to port the conduits before installing it. I don’t think it has been reground so most surely a 296. I had also measured the valves on an injection model head (AAV) and found both were bigger by 1mm for the same boring. Do you think this could be a good addition to make power ? I’ve also seen a guy do the same tune as me (but without any electronic ignition) with a 55hp base and GT cam and got out 95hp at the wheels. I think i’ll be able to put out a great 100-110whp which i’m more than happy with (I think the lift from the Schrick will help greatly).
  10. dvderlm

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    "bearbeitet kolben ventiltaschen" suggests it is a high lift cam = "modified piston valve pockets" "Um 300" = "around 300". That and the Schrick and SV2 markings suggests to me it's the 296 Schrick. That'll be awesome. You could measure the base circle and lobe height to see if it is 292 or 296. Or maybe reground (smaller base circle, lash caps or steep angled tappets) and nitrided for hardness to achieve a bit more oomph? If anyone would do that. [Guess]
  11. arvest86

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    In fact it’s the only thing i know. The french guy i bought it from said it was a 302, which came from an engine he bought in germany with all the paperwork (that’s why i also bought the double valve springs and pistons at the same time). I can assure you its a schrick, maybe an old model and i don’t really have anything more… i didn’t try to measure anything as of right now but ill try to and keep you updated.
  12. dvderlm

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    302° - cool! That's not Schrick then. Got any other cam specs? Valve timing, lift, overlap, lobe separation.
  13. arvest86

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    Thanks ! The carbs i’ll be running are 32mm so i don’t have a clue about the amount of vacuum i’ll get and if it will be enough. My camshaft has a rating of 302° on stock valves, which means totally different tuning from what you’ve done if i’m not mistaken (first time i put this aggressive of a camshaft). I’ll try to do anything to keep the ECU, even though your Amethyst looks way better to tune. I think decompiling the curve and modifying it in a dedicated software could be the go to option for me. Thing is i never touched these types of chips and never reprogrammed an eeprom. I’ll try to see if your settings work in my unit to begin, then adjust if needed.
  14. dvderlm

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    Other good thing about modern aftermarket ignition is it can help adjust for lower RON with E10 fuel. I can cope with 95 ron using 5% Ethanol which has good knock protection. GK wants 98 RON or higher. I use Momentum 99 when I can. And they have soft-cut at max RPM. The Dignition at 6800rpm would hard cut (or 7150rpm on my modified unit) which just sends the tacho needle bouncing around and loses power instantly. All you can do is wait for the revs to descend. With the Amethyst I can feel the drop in power (and sometimes hear the pops of unburnt fuel in exhaust over the engine clatter and induction) then shift up a gear.
  15. dvderlm

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    If the bike carbs have a throttle position sensor you could use that with Amethyst or any other ignition controller that works with a Hall sender for RPM input. Or fit a missing tooth wheel to the crank pulley, but space is tight down there. I'm using the turbo capable Manifold Pressure Sensor based Amethyst, but have not boosted yet (need PY pistons, decompression plate,a turbo or supercharger etc). If I was to do it again I would probably pick an ECU with more RPM and load buckets. Maybe even injection capable model and use the ignition side only, as could transfer it to the next project.
  16. dvderlm

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    I replaced the oscillator crystal in my GK's Dignition with a higher frequency one that I calculated would let it reach 7200rpm. However, the reduced vacuum of four DHLA40 Dellorto's despite a one-way snubber valve, a vacuum gauge, balance plumbing between the cylinders (even with 26mm chokes) meant that the ignition curve was never right as the Bosch map relies on temperature, manifold pressure sensor and RPM inputs. (Big carbs have less vacuum but flow more air. I assume that also holds for bike slide carbs. You can't disable the Dignition vacuum operation as it's not programmable like Digifant... ) So I switched to Aldon Amethyst and spent a very long time iterating to get the curve better, then leaning the mixture, then advancing some more altering the curve, changing the emulsion tubes to finally get good smooth powerful performance with 31mm chokes, on the original GK camshaft (but bigger inlet valves).
  17. foreststu

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    Sounds cool but I know nothing about this so whilst this is a positive message it is also useless to you, good luck!
  18. Mr Diesel polo

    Heater matrix coolant hoses.

    I’d like to know if anyone is breaking a vw polo 9n3. I’m after the water coolant hoses to reconnect my heater matrix. For my 2002 1.9 TDI SPORT. The hose’s must be off a car of around 2000 to 2005. And no later than 2009. As 2010 Vw make slight modifications and the parts are ever so slightly different. 2010 Vw upgrade the polo and upgrade everything so parts off a car registered in 2000. 2010 the cars are slightly different.
  19. Mr Diesel polo

    How do I remove my heater matrix?

    What size was the nut to release the heater matrix. Can anyone let me know this please.
  20. Mr Diesel polo

    How do I remove my heater matrix?

    No you do not need to remove the whole dash. Just the Center of the dash where your radio sits. However it’s quite a time consuming job. Before you start this job, it’s important that you disconnect your battery ? Because as you dismantle the dash there is an electronic control box that controls your air bags. And the battery needs to be disconnected at least an hour. To discharge any voltage within the airbag control unit. Haynes manual states that this has to be removed before removing your heater matrix. “ why this has to be removed I’m not so sure “ I’d have to go back to the manual and read up on it before saying precisely why. Anyway I will be having a go at replacing my heater matrix shortly. When I do it. I will take photos of the various step's and come back here. With photos. And give further details as I undertake this task.
  21. arvest86

    1984 Polo SP engine tuning

    Figured i’d start my first thread by explaining what i’m gonna do. I have a 1984 Polo SP (9000 cars made) and just finished completely rebuilding the engine, gearbox, suspension and rear axle. It is equipped with a 75hp GK engine (i’ve heard it’s quite rare) and the Bosch Dignition ECU (which i figure is even rarer). Had trouble with this one as my stock unit was fried, but a new one came in clutch to make it start. The thing is i’m currently building a new engine featuring bike carbs, schrick camshaft, ported heads, balanced bottom end and more. I plan on reaching 7500rpm with this setup. I don’t want to get rid of the original ECU, so i need a way to modify values in it. I’ve heard people working on Digifant and Motronic ECUs for 3F and PY engines, but never on the Dignition. I saw one guy in Germany who did it but he never wrote anything about it. If anyone has ever done this or even heard about it, i’d be glad to hear from you guys. Thanks! Axel
  22. BenGunn

    Op double the power of the ABD!

  23. BenGunn

    Op double the power of the ABD!

    So, As the title suggests, I've set a target and I'm going tonshoot for it. Picked up the Bready in Dec 23. It had an ABD fitted but was running on the 1.0 spi system. Took it to the dyno to see how it was running and surprisingly it was OK. Lambda sensor doing its job and sorting the fuelling. Result of running the 1.0 SPI was great low down torque but out of puff up top. Played with the timing a little and settled on a better ifke abd 61bhp rather than another couple of bhp and a worse idle. Found out the cat was empty which probably helped a bit with the power/torque. Now fitted the correct 1.3 SPI, port matched the inleta little better, a 4-2-1 manifold and have some b2b testing to do on the manifold heater (hedgehog) removal. Aside from this I acquired myself a piper bp300 cam, a spare ABD engine and have begun the strip down to see what's possible. No aftermarket internals available so looking at different options. Most likely current plan is to skim the pistons and deck the block by an equal amount to get the 9.5:1 CR up closer to 11:1. I'll also do some head work and look in to the possibility of larger valves (again nothing off the shelf). I'll add a set of itbs and standalone ecu and hopefully get somewhere near my target. The whole thing would be a lot simpler with the 1.3!!! Some pics below.
  24. This is power and The ODB is getting power from this Wire K line os PIN 25
  25. Só The k Wire negative whats The PIN off ir you know ? This is The conection that i found this is pin 23
  26. So i can join The 2 Browns They booth negative
  27. Looking at the OEM wiring diagram Pin 12 Blue wire goes to the Alternator D+ terminal Pin 21 Blue wire goes to drivers door open switch Pin 29 Blue/Brown wire goes to Handbrake switch & Low brake fluid switch
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