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All Activity
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Knockem Flatt joined the community - Yesterday
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Hi, if you'd like the reassurance of reading some reviews before trying Chris Knott for a car insurance quote, here's a selection from some of our car club forums and the Trustpilot review site... "I saved £40 on my renewal and the process was nice and easy, highly recommended." taffyhornblower, jaguarforum "I went with CK 10 days ago, they easily beat the A********** renewal and subsequent quotes I had with an equivalent policy - so I am in the [prize] draw." coldel, VX220 forum "Smashed my renewal quote with my previous insurers, well impressed! All mods d
- Last week
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rough running after high revs
dvderlm replied to dvderlm's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
AFR log say 11.8 to 13.2 at +0.346psi and 10.8 at +0.305psi. Hard to know if that as throttle closed... but trend looks it goes from 13 down to 11 while accelerating hard. Bigger air. -
rough running after high revs
dvderlm replied to dvderlm's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
122 is good over 3000 (12.4 to 12.8) but now appears to be too rich at the top end. Sure I saw it reach 11.9 out of the corner of my eye. So 190 or 200 airs I guess. -
1. Foreststu 2. Schneil 3. Gaz 4. Dave 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
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I'm up for it. (I'm having a bit of a nightmare with a rear arch trim, but one way or another I'll be coming). I'll ask Steve (sleag40) if he wants to come.
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Help wanted. Refitting rear arch trim 2f coupe
schneil replied to schneil's topic in Bodywork, Interior and Trim
The metalwork might not be the correct shape. My second go and the trim doesn't quite fit. I'll contact my mechanic who did the welding and go from there. -
rough running after high revs
dvderlm replied to dvderlm's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
I also redid the main jets to be 122 with 182.5 air correctors (in .7 tube). I wonder what the AFR gauge will think about that. 120 main with 190 air (in .5 tube) is good for a tuned Fiat 1290cc. -
rough running after high revs
dvderlm replied to dvderlm's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Making the AMP plug have protruding pins was quite a fiddly job last time. Desoldered the plug pins, as they were extended with crimped solid copper wire in the DIY plug. Soldered the existing DIY plug back to stripped and tinned leads with some new heatsink sleeving. Refitted and idle is back to normal. The multi strand copper wires I used are fairly thin (insulation displacement telephone extension wire in convoluted sleeving). Lasted 4 years. I imagine they became brittle as they flexed, (and unplugging when testing compression finally did for the joint) -
It's going to be such a nice feeling when she comes back and she is all blue again!
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Think me and Dave are down! Have you advetised on Facebook? I bet Schniel would be up for it as well
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Aljaz joined the community -
Philturboderv joined the community -
First job of the day, the heater blower/ scuttle area was cleaned up. After all the muck was removed, it looked fresh, so this area will be masked off and left as is. Nearside of engine bay now rubbed out. Just the bottom half of the bulkhead left to rub now. Should get that finished up one evening in the week.
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CKM joined the community -
Time Left: 24 days and 4 hours
- FOR SALE
- USED
Vw polo mk5 1.2 12 v sport very cheap insurance in racing green this has a limited edition vw body kit 15" gti alloys brand new tyres just had a bosch service new bosch coils a full 12months mot It has a Kenwood six speaker sound system the car is in very clean condition no nocks no scratches very very shiny Only reason for sale is because I have bought a golf that is the only reason for sale ( I also have hundreds and hundreds of polo parts from panels a to engine parts these will also go with the car ) please no time wasting it is a clean honest car I do work nights but I will get to your messages as soon as I can thanks £1200ovno£1,200.00
Notts, England - GB
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vacuum lines and boost lines go
steveo3002 replied to MIkemontreal's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
if its a turbo then its homemade and you be best to speak to who built it -
Hello, Im in need of a diagram or something to direct me on where the vacuum lines and boost lines go for polo g40 turbo MK2. If anyone can help that'd be appreciated. I'm not hitting any boost right now.
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Two thirds of a 1968 Porsche 911T Turbo 6 cylinder 1991cc. is 1.327litres. 67hp? @ 5800rpm (all 6 cylinders gives 110hp and 177Nm torque at 4200rpm) Compression ratio 8.6:1 Weber 40IDTP3C Choke 27 Main 110 Emulsion F3 Air 185 Idle 50 Idle air 110 (in carb body; the F10 idle holder has no hole) Pump 50 Enrichment 70 Float height 20.75 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/431669-weber-carbs-diff-between-ida-idt-idtp.html#post4196754
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I've got at least 2 lmao we need a few more guys and girls
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Elizabeth joined the community - Earlier
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Should be fine. VW have been doing flex fuel engines for Brazil (VW GOL) for ages. Only modern petrol Polo that can't do E10 is 1.4 litre (63kW) FSI made from February 2002 to June 2006 Not sure why. Maybe aluminium injector rail? Fuel hoses have been Ethanol safe SAE J30R9 for ages. https://www.gov.uk/check-vehicle-e10-petrol I'm not sure now I've checked for a 1996. https://www.hagerty.co.uk/articles/maintenance-and-gear/everything-you-need-to-know-about-using-e10-fuel-with-your-classic-car/ "However, the RAC has war
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Hi I've got a 1996 6n1 polo and I've heard about this new fuel that's being brought in and I'm wondering if it will run on e10 or will I need to replace parts?. Thanks
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Help wanted. Refitting rear arch trim 2f coupe
steveo3002 replied to schneil's topic in Bodywork, Interior and Trim
is the metalwork the correct shape ? week old paint shouldnt rub off down to the metal , have you used the correct primer over keyyed up prep work? -
Click / knock on braking when in motion
zob replied to zob's topic in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes
Had a look and on the nearside they appear fine by visual inspection, more messy on the offside which doesn't appear to be the side the noise is from (if indeed there is a 'side'). Could be the carrier 'clicking' along its route? On the off-chance I checked the nearside rear as another post mentioned some clicking from a pitted bearing race potentially from an incorrect tension from the rear hub nut. Had a poke and the thrust washer has the amount of lateral play (with a screwdriver) that haynes recommends. -
It's been a bit warmer than is comfortable in the shed of late, but I still managed to get a bit of rubbing done. The offside is mostly done. Got started with the nearside turret, and ran out of time. Should get back on it over the next weekend.
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Rear quarter was rubbed out at the weekend, then plonked the door on today to have a weigh up. It's a lot better, but not quite 100%. I may have another little fettle at some point time permitting. The nearside is pretty much spot on. Very pleased with this side. After playing with doors + umming and ahhing for a while, I got a bit of guide coat on in the engine bay, then made a start on rubbing it again.
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rough running after high revs
dvderlm replied to dvderlm's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
The WR5DS did not foul when idle at 14, but low RPM (600?) due to Dignition advance expecting single carb and 19in Hg, not 12. Cruise at 2500rpm ish was 15.3 AFR. -
rough running after high revs
dvderlm replied to dvderlm's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Ran with 119/155 on ye olde Dignition... whose Hall sender plug is okay. Idle and low rpms are fairly rubbish, as not. enough advance for the twin carbs lower vacuum. At W_o_t which has same 30+5 advance as the Amethyst, I see AFRs from 11.3 at +0.305psi to 14.3 at +0.387 psi So 155 air corrector is a bit too rich. Or faulty sparks, were causing wideband to think unburnt fuel was lean condition. -
Click / knock on braking when in motion
dvderlm replied to zob's topic in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes
caliper bolt rubbers?
