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Finn2002 joined the community - Yesterday
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Nice! Any chance you will be selling those wheels? Mine is a Fox and I'm after a set with those black trims and any other standard bits your getting rid of I might be interested. In any case good luck with this project!
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A little mudflap fettling was akso done this afternoon. Emblems and metal bits were removed first. The rubbery bits were then relieved of many years worth of muck (and bodge overspray!) These will be receiving a bit of treatment from the paint bloke to restore the shine lost by the deep clean. The metal bits then got straightened and cleaned back to the point where Hydrate 80 can be applied prior to black paint. Still looking for the missing emblem.
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Drivers' seat went back in first this afternoon. Obviously the passenger side was next! I got them reasonably clean using bathroom wipes (to avoid getting them too wet), but when the ambient temperature is considerably higher I'll be wet vacuuming the seats and door cards to finish the cleaning off. The worst of the muck has gone though.
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Front lower brace "Ged bar" MK2F diameter
steveo3002 replied to Bread's topic in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes
id take a guess theyre nearer 25mm /3mm wall - Last week
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Front lower brace "Ged bar" MK2F diameter
Bread posted a topic in Wheels, Tyres, Suspension and Brakes
Hi, I was looking to buy a ged bar from PPP, but they have sadly stopped trading, and nowhere else seems to sell anything similar. Therefore I am considering fabricating one myself, but am unsure on dimensions. Obviously it has to be the correct length to fit between the chassis leg holes, but I'm unsure on the diameter and I don't want the thing too weak (it's a chassis brace lol). My best guess from pictures of one fitted are that its about twice the ARB thickness. Therefore my current idea is 30mm dia steel tubing, 3mm wall thickness and make suitable tabs for the -
Ok, the puff of mist might change in shape when you stop cranking as the engine is no longer sucking. Since your car won't start its difficult for you to judge because until you've seen it misting when running its hard to know what is "normal". Was the back of the brass throttle plate looking shiny wet with petrol? I would follow the spark and fuel methods suggested above (make sure to test all the plugs individually to prove them all). If spark is good and she starts using easy-start and you therefore know its a fuel problem, you could also try these: i)
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Keiranisdevine joined the community -
Papastroumf joined the community -
I have acquired myself a 6n2! Meet Peggy, my first car and first of many VWs I'm sure! I bought her off someone off this forum, and I'm excited to get started on this project.
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@StuartBrenin The OP hasn't been on here since July 2015 so maybe send them a PM ?
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MaisieCaudwell joined the community -
GB-Saints-Fan joined the community -
Doubt you'll see this 8 years later, but she lives...sort of.... She's not had the PY engine fitted for a long while. Has been competing for many years with an ABD/3F hybrid engine but since it's died, I'm currently hunting for an AFH. The PY motor is due to be fitted into my Mk2 this year.
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POLO Mk2f 1993 Stop Running?
steveo3002 replied to Musky's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
yes thats the main pump....should buzz briefly when a helper turns on the ign -
Kirdaz joined the community -
The mist sounds like fuel, but maybe not enough. Cold engine does needs a rich mixture. Checking for spark means resting the body of a spark plug against bare metal with plug lead attached and looking for the regular little blue lightning strikes when you crank. Dusk makes them easy to see. You can hold the lead attached plug's body in a jump lead whose other end is connected to battery negative or bare metal to make it easier to see from driver's seat (and away from the sparkplug hole for safety) Or you can check with plugs fitted. Dribble a
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Nothing squirts out when I initially then the key but when I stop and can see like a puff of mist. The video file is to big for me to upload it as reference.
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I take it that this is the 2nd fuel pump and filter?
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Jet cover gaskets tightened down and 44 idle with .7 idle holders is way better. No 17.8:1 nonsense at high vacuum low load 2000rpm. Using .7 main emulsions again as .6 was overdoing it. Weather's not been so cold that I've felt the need to half block the rad. But I have now also set the warm air feed to not supply any cold air, like I usually do in winter for better warm-up phase when the thermostat does open after 2 miles or so. Got some thick 2mm Flexoid gasket paper/card to cut my own new jet cover pieces. Just a rectangle with two 4mm holes. Should
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POLO Mk2f 1993 Stop Running?
steveo3002 replied to Musky's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
conform theres a spark...new plugs dont mean anything , could be a faulty could or hall sender..,if you see a spark then you can eliminate that -
Might need some need ignition leads as I haven't changed them yet. All of my other electrics are working fine. Dashboards lights up, lights all work fine and motors seem fine.
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If you remove the air filter cover (on an SPI) you can see the injector squirting and the squirts getting bigger with throttle. Not exactly scientific but it will rule out a total failure/blockage. Even if she wont start, you should see some fuel squirting as its cranking. If you've just changed the plugs, its worth checking the leads are all still on firmly. Also if the leads were close to failing, the bending from removing them for a plug change can sometimes be the final thing that makes them quit. Are you electricals otherwise fine, does the starter motor crank o
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Didn't know there was two... The one underneath the seats is working, I'll check the other one tomorrow. What do you mean by check for a spark? I've just changed all of the spark plugs so they should be working fine.
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POLO Mk2f 1993 Stop Running?
steveo3002 replied to Musky's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
theres 2 pumps ..are both running ? one under the car near the spare wheel and other inside the tank access is via cover under the rear seat could also check for spark ...rest a spark plug against a metal part on the engine and have a helper crank it ..you should see a spark -
For some reason my Polo randomly cut out the other day. It was driving fine but then all of sudden I got no power when I was pressing the accelerator, it felt like no petrol was getting to the engine. The car continued to run but eventually cut out. Since then I have been unable to start it up. The fuel pump seems to be working. I can hear it humming and felt it vibrating when I've turned the engine on. Does anyone have any ideas what it could be?
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Musky joined the community -
EGR Valve fault - P0408 - Lack of power - HELP !
DonnyPolo replied to DonnyPolo's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Hi Nige. The wiring is going to be my first port of call at the weekend 👍🏻. All vacuum pipes are fine. Cheers for the info / wiring diagram once again. Regards Andy -
EGR Valve fault - P0408 - Lack of power - HELP !
nige8021 replied to DonnyPolo's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
https://www.obd-codes.com/p0408 & http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/16792/P0408/001032 -
EGR Valve fault - P0408 - Lack of power - HELP !
DonnyPolo replied to DonnyPolo's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Hi all. A quick update on the above. I believe I may have potentially fixed the problem, the front CAT was blocked !. Car now runs fine, gutsy (for a 1.0 🤣) right the way through the whole rev range, however fault code P0408 still remains. Further investigation required over the weekend. Andy -
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EGR Valve fault - P0408 - Lack of power - HELP !
DonnyPolo replied to DonnyPolo's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Brilliant, thanks very much for this info, it’s much appreciated 👍🏻.
