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Hi, Hope everything is well. I am looking for an MIB unit for a Polo I am trying to retrofit. I have been looking at 3Q0 035 874C as Carplay function is very important to me. This unit is very pricey and makes my budget tight (also saving money is always welcomed). I have now discovered 5E0 035 874C which is a Skoda radio unit which looks identical to the Polo unit I'm looking at but works out much cheaper. It has the same sockets at the back i.e USB/FM/Quadlock. Is it possible for me to use this unit in my Polo and then connect it to the Polo display, or will it not work? Thanks.

Depending on what radio you have fitted ? it might not have any output for the rear speakers

Have a feel around inside the door, if you're lucky it might already have the wiring in there just clipped out of the way. Adding the wiring in isn't bad. The pins are a small spade connector, so you can get some uninsulated terminals and add them in fairly easily, it's just pulling the wires that's a pain.

I’m looking at installing rear speakers in my Polo 9N. I’ve had the door panel off and seen that there’s definitely no speakers. I’ve found the size of speakers that I need, but I have to issues. I know that I need a harness/adapter to fit the speakers but not sure which ones. I also then don’t know how to attach these adapters to the main speaker plug behind the radio, it only has pins for the front two speakers, and blank spaces for where the rear ones would be.

I took the Derby to Rollhard a Bicester Heritage at the weekend, what an amazing show at an awesome venue. I was totally blown away to get a top 10 favourite award. Heres my new favourite photo by Ross Delaney 😎

No cabin heater, I only plan to use the car in nice weather etc, or wear a jumper! Also the opening 1/4's do a good job of letting fresh air in. I've been using it like this for a year now and not run into any problems yet. Cheers

Exchange stock finally now includes Skoda Fabia mk2 version of 6Y1959801. Interestingly, testing in my 9N3 demonstrates that this and the Skoda Roomster version of 6Y1959801 are not functionally equivalent to the VW versions, up/down movements of switches result in opposite-direction glass motion, and one-touch operation seems to be affected in that on the way up (switch down!), both of those don't fully close the window, stopping 40 or 50mm shy. Price of exchange unit dropping to £75 for remainder of August, with same £30 rebate on receipt of returned original motor module. Watch out for postal strikes on 26th and 31st Aug, 8th and 9th Sept. Pete 🙂

Stalks arrived yesterday, crimp pins for adding to that should be with me tomorrow or Thurs. Just ordered 10-off 1N5408 diodes for £2 via Amazon, cos although I have 1N4007s by the dozen already, peace of mind through fitting the beefier one is worth that much. One point worth making* is that if planning to route the engine ECU wire the factory way, do your research about whether or not the section from the engine-bay side of that T11a connector to engine ECU is actually present. It would be pretty frustrating to battle your way to add in the cabin-side pin/wire only to find it isn't going anywhere beyond. Wiring diagram for my BBY engined 9N daily suggests it will be there, but the diagram valid for cars 5 months newer (from Nov 2003) with that engine show the section from engine ECU to firewall as 'only fitted on cars with cruise control'. My BKY 2005 9N3 also appears to lack this wire, according to its wiring info. Would need to find a crimp insert plus wire to fit into pin 38 of the engine ECU connector in that case, I think? Anyone come across this headache mid-job? * Maybe not. The asterisk marking this loom segment between engine ECU connector and firewall connector as absent on cars without cruise appears to be simply an error in the wiring diagrams. Nige kindly pointed out to me that there aren't with/without cruise versions of the engine bay wiring loom, which there would have to be if that wire/connection was really omitted sometimes. Below is a pic of the engine bay side white wire location, this is in behind wiper motor, with lid off the relevant interconnect box. Ignore the yellow arrow, that was pointing out something else. May be useful for someone.

Lighter flywheel would let engine spin up faster (smaller parasitic loss) and be able to send more torque to the wheels. But won't always coast gently up to a junction not touching the pedals in normal traffic because the engine's inertia is reduced.

An ABD probably won't give you more BHP, but it will put more torque in. Conversely, it'll make it less likely to rev, so harder to get BHP from. But then torque's what makes it move. There's a fair few 95hp GT's in the Club Polo annuls. There's basically 2 ways of doing it. Headwork (big valves, springs, and/or cams) Fuel and exhaust (bigger throttle bodies, maps, injectors, exhausts, or chuck it all and start again with carbs). Nothing wrong with doing either carbs or injection, it's just about what you're into.

So yeah, I'm worse on car's I'm emotionally involved in. And it's a none-starter. Coded 3 injectors (more on that later). Cranks over great, so I nipped the injectors off a bit expectting 2 million PSI of common rail hell to unleash and take my arm off or something. Well, there's fuel there, but it's not pressurised anything like it should be. So I pop the return line off and there's fuel there, low pressure like it should be, so there's not a high pressure there that the injectors are sending straight back. Now, I'd be alright with saying I screwed the injection pump when I forgot to fill the filter, but it doesn't quite smell right. To me, if a high pressure pump's failed, it fails dead, not fails a bit. Yeah, it might just blow straight through from the lift pump, but, this just isn't sitting right. At this point, I've got VCDS running, priming fuel pumps, running a dozen different live datas, and I look up and see the works I have written really big on the shed wall. "DON'T OVERCOMPLICATE" It's a diesel, there's only 5 things Fuel Injection Suck Squeeze (forget bang, if all of the above is there, it bangs) Blow Work it backwards: Blow's ok, there's exhaust there. DPF isn't saying bad things. It ran previously so there's no reason to doubt the squeeze Suck - hand over the intake, it's pulling air Injection - new injectors, pretty much saying the right things on VCDS, I have no reason to doubt you, but no reason to confirm. Fuel... fuel..... How could that be wrong? So, work it forwards and prove it. Fuel, test run the lift pump, click, whirrr.... That's right isn't it? Simplicity, Take the inlet pipe off the filter, stick it in a coke can, run the lift pump for 30 seconds and it should be all over the floor. Nope, 10mm in the bottom of the can.

Do you have any kind of cabin heater/blower at all or have you totally done away with it? I will be starting work on my wifes very soon but the previous owner has removed the scuttle and welded up the heater hole similar to yours. She doesn't want it to be particularly fast so wasn't planning on fitting throttle bodies or individual carbs (which is a shame as I have the AUB on gsxr ITB's out of my Golf sat under the workbench). Currently undecided whether to reinstate something OEM or leave as is and draw air from the wheel arch or something

Seems that VW like to cross injector lines over just to confuse people. That took a bit of headscratching before I realised it's commonrail, so it wouldn't make any difference if they were in the wrong order.

Another thanks to the OP for this guide. 🙂 I've just yesterday decided to give it a go, fully DIY without tailor-made loom. Got a new old stock genuine stalk set from ebay for not too much, already had a connector with wires in that will go in the onboard supply control unit and have just acquired a few of the crimps to suit the stalks connector from this helpful ebayer: https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/2009nutnut/m.html?_trkparms=folent%3A2009nutnut|folenttp%3A1&_trksid=p3542580.m47492.l71970 He has both 000979009E and 000979009EA for sale, amongst many other types, and he confirmed to me that the only difference between those two numbers is one is 'selective gold-plated', the other not. I've gone for the goldie ones 'cos 'why not'? nige8021 kindly helped me find that one of those two part numbers appears to be the correct one to add the wires into the stalks connector. 👍 Once I've got all the bits and pieces and checked that I can get it going I'll post up the wiring diagram and any tips I pick up along the way. The wiring diagram shows a diode in series with one of the wires from the stalks, which is described as a 'blocking diode'. With @nige8021's help I was able to identify this as the common 1N4007 type or possibly the 1N5408 beefier version which superseded the former in ETKA. That may have been simply rationalisation as the latter was used more often/elsewhere but I guess it makes sense to use this higher current/voltage rated part just in case the former was found to be inadequate for this application in the fulness of time. Either should only be pennies each from electronics retailers. . I'm not planning on running the engine ECU wire the proper way, but will take another, easier way through into the engine bay with it, to avoid the dash removal grief.

Someone bailed, so just 4 G40s. More than is usually there! Nick was there too in his converted GT.

Or for pouring gearbox oil on your clutch if your last name is "Haynes" and you write manuals (don't do that)

Great detailed write-up. I am on the journey to the same destination and this is a great resource. Thanks for sharing!

Ah ok thanks for letting me know, I'll get it shut.

the cap just pushes in , its for checking the timing marks on the flywheel

Hi guys, Just noticed this little bung when inspecting my engine bay. Never noticed it before so not sure if it's always been open but I wanted to know if I should close it? On a side note, it would also be helpful if anybody could tell me what it does and why it's there? Please see the photos below for reference. Many thanks.

Got a farm water pump. It ran off an 18.5kW/25hp electric motor at 2900rpm. Just the small matters of the water flanges, mounting it for the plumbing and a shaft to pulley drive conversion with a tensioning mechanism. One drive shaft option is V belt driving centrifugal clutch on a 1" keyway shaft with a bearing.

Just sat them in with some gentle pressure on the clamps for the moment in case they want to slide in any further overnight, because I can't find my little torque wrench, and I don't trust myself to be 6Nm by feel.

How did you get on? Many polo's

It's a good upgrade, i can tell it's stiffer by the extra vibration through the floorpan. The exhaust still rattles a bit under full gas in first though, that'll be the cheap pattern system.

The distance from front to back is also shorter than with a Polo lower mount. Which will help keep weight inside the stand's wheels. Wheels are 62cm apart. But wheel bars are about 75 cm, so it should be stable if I can get center of gravity just right, which should be okay suspended from a tiny crane. The engine is inclined, but intake manifold and carbs should be flat and level.