All Activity

https://www.autopartspro.co.uk/carparts-online/oil-dipstick/vw-polo/polo-coupe-86c-80

A leak from the top of the tube? Not sure that is the correct dipstick. (I have an earlier Polo , no yellow plastic). Is there a plastic tube on top of the metal tube that the stick locks into? Has a small lug broken off on one side? Looks like a Febi 03608 for a much newer car. Tie a tissue around the outside of the tube, see if oil reaches that.

Comprei recentemente um VW Polo III (6N2) 1.4 TDI de 2001. Não percebo muito de mecânica, mas sou uma pessoa curiosa e tenho vindo a aprender aos poucos. Desde que comprei o carro, fui identificando vários problemas. Alguns já consegui resolver, enquanto outros continuam pendentes. A maioria das reparações efetuadas até agora foram relacionadas com a estética e os interiores. Quando adquiri o carro, as forras e os puxadores das portas dianteiras estavam danificados, mas já consegui reparar tudo. Os bancos traseiros também não rebatíam, problema que entretanto resolvi. O trinco do porta-luvas estava partido e foi igualmente reparado. Outra situação que me preocupava eram as infiltrações de água, principalmente do lado do condutor. Depois de alguma investigação, descobri que o problema estava relacionado com as forras das portas, que não se encontravam devidamente isoladas. Após corrigir essa situação, consegui eliminar as entradas de água nessa zona. A bagageira também apresentava infiltrações. Neste caso, a origem do problema estava nas borrachas de vedação dos farolins traseiros, que se encontravam deterioradas. Após a sua substituição, a entrada de água ficou resolvida. Outra questão que me deixou apreensivo foi o facto de o circuito de refrigeração ganhar pressão excessiva no vaso de expansão. Acabei por substituir a tampa do vaso, uma vez que a válvula da tampa antiga já não funcionava corretamente, e tudo indica que o problema ficou resolvido. Além disso, o carro perdia água pela bomba do limpa-para-brisas, componente que entretanto substituí. O carro vinha apenas com uma chave. Entretanto, adquiri um cabo VCDS na internet e consegui programar uma segunda chave com sucesso. Por fim, as mudanças entravam com bastante dificuldade. Após alguma pesquisa, descobri que o problema podia ser resolvido através de uma afinação relativamente simples do sistema de seleção da caixa de velocidades e da substituição de uma borracha do seletor que se encontrava deteriorada. Atualmente, as mudanças entram sem qualquer dificuldade. Neste momento existem ainda algumas situações que gostaria de resolver e para as quais agradecia a vossa opinião. 1. Fuga de óleo na tampa do filtro de óleoEsta é provavelmente a situação que mais me preocupa. O carro está a perder óleo pela tampa do filtro de óleo. Já substituí o filtro e o respetivo o-ring, mas a fuga mantém-se exatamente no mesmo local. Encomendei uma tampa nova e estou a aguardar a sua chegada para verificar se o problema fica resolvido. No entanto, disseram-me que a causa poderá não estar na tampa, mas sim num possível problema de ventilação do cárter, nomeadamente no tubo de respiro. Alguém já passou por uma situação semelhante? 2. Fecho centralizado avariadoAs infiltrações de água na bagageira acabaram por danificar a bomba de vácuo do fecho centralizado. Neste momento tenho as fichas elétricas das portas desligadas, porque os vidros desciam sozinhos sem qualquer explicação. Além disso, o trinco da porta do passageiro não funciona corretamente. Consigo fechar o carro com a chave nessa porta, mas não o consigo abrir utilizando o mesmo método. Alguém sabe se este comportamento é normal quando a bomba está avariada ou será um problema independente relacionado com a fechadura? 3. Suspensão e alinhamento da direçãoTambém preciso de substituir um sinobloco de um dos triângulos da suspensão, ou eventualmente o triângulo completo. Neste momento o carro tende a desviar-se para a direita e, para o manter em linha reta, tenho de circular com o volante ligeiramente virado para a esquerda. Antes de fazer o alinhamento da direção, pretendo resolver esta situação da suspensão. Na vossa opinião, vale mais a pena substituir apenas o sinobloco ou trocar o triângulo completo? Agradeço desde já qualquer dica ou sugestão que possam dar. Apesar de ainda estar a aprender, tenho gostado bastante de recuperar este carro e de resolver eu próprio muitos destes problemas. 😊🚗🔧

Muito Obrigado pela ajuda, vou tentar desta forma.

Hi, to confirm, yes it is the rocker cover with 3 bolts in a line, I have the carb with round lid. Oil is definitely coming from the oil level pipe not else wear and if I pushed the dip stick firmly with my hand it does reduce it to just a drip, I just originally thought it shouldn't have that much pressure to come out in the first place and that it may cause it to pop off suddenly later. Is it possible another leak would result in this odd pressure or more likely an o-ring on the end of this pipe at the engine block which you mentioned before. Here is a photo of just the start of the dip stick, unsure if there should be an o-ring on this as well and maybe the top has a missing clip which possibly was caused by the pressure breaking it off, not certain if it was there originally or not. Any further help would be much appreciated though I believe at this point you are right it could be an O-ring from the oil level pipe, thanks.

Probably. Might just need pushing in tight. Think o-ring has 15mm internal diameter on 1991 model. Take tube out, use calipers to measure. Though my usual strategy is replace in order of cheapness, height and difficulty. Oil flows downwards. Degrease the block. Apply talcum powder to spot the tell tale trail. Next leak point above that is the crankshaft seal. This needs a special tool or ingenuity and patience to remove the old one. And involves removing timing belt and crank and aux belt & pulley then refit with correct timing. It can flow from here and pool on the extrusion near the dipstick. Then head gasket which usually leaks at the front onto alternator as the main oil gallery is there. Then oil pressure sender, if this was ever changed. Then Camshaft seal at pulley end, or distributor seal. Then rocker cover gasket. Take of the cambelt cover clips and look at belt teeth. Are they crumbly,any missing? But only 60k miles. 1991 is a year late for carb. Is it single pont injection. Does rocker cover have 3 bolts inn a line? Or 8 around the edge?

Thanks a lot for the response, it is a 1991 polo mk2f bready, are you sure it is still likely the dipstick O-Ring?

That may well be the o-ring on the dipstick tube where it enters the block... Part N90032203 I think. What year Polo Fox? When the oil is pressurized by the oil pump it will escape anywhere it can. Should simply need unbolt a bracket at top, twist and pull the tube out, change the perished or missing o-ring at the fitting bulge around tube Guide the tube back into back of block. Wear gloves, engine oil is not good for you. Optionally, clean the back of engine where tube goes in with old newspaper or paper towels, engine degreaser spray (gunk) if really filthy. (Should be possible from above if the bin-lid air filter housing is not in the way. Do not go under the car with just a tyre change jack. Drive right hand side onto raised pavement or borrow / buy axle stand or drive on ramps. Handbrake on and block rear wheels.) https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/359248-how-to-remove-oil-dipstick-tube/

I'm not particularly experienced with mechanics, I'm looking to learn as I go, I have an oil leak not mayonnaise (more than a drip) from my oil level stick and it appears as soon as the car is on not from high revs or being hot, I'm quite unsure what I can check to fix it. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks, Alvin. Carb not injection 1L fox 60k miles

This is from the dealership manual

Hello everyone, Could anyone help me, please? I have a 2001 VW Polo III (6N2) 1.4 TDI and I need to remove the high-level brake light (the third brake light located at the top of the tailgate). As I do not have the vehicle manual, I cannot work out the correct way to remove it without damaging it. I have searched online but have been unable to find any information specific to this model. On the inside of the tailgate, there are two round rubber covers which I have already removed. However, I cannot find any retaining screws. All I can see are two black plastic pieces with a slot in them. I have tried sliding them in both directions, but without success. It seems to me that the brake light may be held in place by clips or springs, and that these plastic pieces might be used to release it. However, I am concerned about breaking the light unit, so I would appreciate some guidance before applying any more force. If anyone has removed this brake light before or knows the correct procedure, I would be very grateful for your advice. Also, if any member has a digital copy of the workshop manual or owner's manual for the VW Polo 6N2 (1999-2001) and would be willing to share it, I would greatly appreciate it. Kind regards.

Hello all. My daughter has nearly outgrown her baby seat and now needs one for toddlers (group 1). I currently have a cybex cloud-t and it fits in the back of a 2f coupe (just). But at 21months she's nearly outgrown it. Has anyone got any experience or recommendations for the next size up?

So pulling it out from the front it is. Any tips on the pulling? It looks a bit hard to grip, or will careful fingers do it?

Hi all, I have just bought a Polo GTI 2019 (my first VW 😁) and I absolutely love it. I’m a big guy (180cm 145kg) that likes small cars. Hoping if someone can tell me how much bigger the Golf GTI driver’s seat is than the Polo GTI seat plus are there any implications if I swapped the seats e.g. the driver’s door is hard to close. Many thanks, David

Update coming soon…

Hi, it’s been a while since I did this, but from memory the yellow plastic thing that the bulb sits in does just pull out. I don’t think there’s any clips to hold it in place. Once it’s out, you can use a small screwdriver to remove the metal tabs that act as the bulbs connector, and wedge the ‘tails’ of the bulb into them if that makes sense? I hope that helps.

Hello Jake. I managed to get some 4mm "grain of wheat" 12v bulbs with bendy wire legs. I think they will work. The next question is how did you get the bulb out? The black plastic clips off the front. Then you can see the top of the bulb. Did you pull it out with something? Or did you do what Haynes suggests and remove the ciggy lighter, then unscrew the heater control box and take the bulb out of it's rear? The Haynes method looks tricky as it claims you can do it with the heater cables still attached

Ok thank you, ill change it and will update if it solves the issue or not.

It would stop it dieseling on. An idle cutoff valve will have a supply wire to it and an earth connection to a spade on an inlet manifold bolt.

If 6N2 has a distributor, it will be worth having a look there too.

Don't worry about the absence of an error code, crank position sensor is a good shout given the symptoms.

but if it was a faulty sensor, shouldn’t there be an error code?

The rpm indication falling to zero suggests a crank sensor fault, either the sensor itself, or a poor connection to it.

Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my VW Polo 6n2 (2001) with the 1.4 16v engine (Engine code: AUA). The Symptoms are the following: While driving at 120 km/h (approx. 75 mph), the engine suddenly cuts out completely. Even though the car is in gear and moving, the RPM needle drops instantly to 0. What I do to keep going is shifting into neutral while driving, turn the ignition key back on, and shift back into 5th gear. With this the engine turns on as if nothing happened. This doesn't just happen on the highway. The engine also randomly cuts out at idle or when driving at low speeds around town. The Check Engine Light is also permanently on usually with 2 codes: P0130: O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1, Sensor 1) P0171: System Too Lean (Bank 1) I have changed the intake throttle, o2 sensors and EGR. (I cant get to do EGR calibration, it doesn't work). Has anyone experienced anything similar on another Polo? I would heavily appreciate any guidance or advise about how to fix this issue. Thanks in advance!

I'm trying to remember if the Formel E's used an electically-controlled stop valve on the carb as part of the Stop-Start Assist?