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I have installed Bilstein B14's on mine, and lowered over 40mm all round. Nearly 5 years and have been great. TBH, and it may sound crazy, I got these for 259GBP from amazon UK when they had only one sent left in stock and then shipped them over to Australia.
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Hi All, Been around for a while lurking, and made a post today and also this one. Car: Polo 6N2 (1.4 16v) 2001 Engine: AHW Gear box: ETD Power: A massive 55kw 🙂 Mileage: 204000km
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MickyC changed their profile photo -
6N1 Gear selector linkage broke - confused about replacement part
MickyC replied to PIXIP's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
May I also suggest that you change the metal ball joint (ball stud), that goes into the selector rod and also a new sealing plate. The pictures of the old ball stud and the new ball stud (images attached to compare) don't do it any justice how much metal was worn down against the new one. You may possibly still have an issue of this socket dislodging again soon in the future. When I did this job, I had to place the selector in boiling water for less than a minute to pop it on the new ball stud, it was that hard to do, I couldn't even use pliers to pop it on - Yesterday
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I was having idle issues, so cleaned out the auxiliary jet on the carb this seemed to work but then bat would not hold charge and was leaking so assumed it needed replacing. Hello, When I had taken the battery out and put in my garage it was defo leaking something didn’t see anything in battery tray mind you.. I will double check what you have both said (dvderlm) thank you both for your time. Ben
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Turns over but will not start
mk2tastic replied to Bungy's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
A Leaking battery is unusual to say the least, unless it’s been dropped or suffered some other form of external stress, for instance over tightening of the hold down bracket. Battery acid will take all the paint off too and over time rot metal/wiring, but a leak would see the battery become useless almost immediately as the electrolyte leaks out. If the engine started before the battery change then check your battery connections. As already mentioned there is more than one wire connected to the positive terminal. I’d be tempted to go back to the beginning and put the orig -
Leaking battery acid? Really, that would eat wire insulation and paint. Is the new battery holding charge (A voltmeter shows over 12volts with engine off). As weather not freezing I'd suspect the alternator is not charging (regulator brush pack worn) or the fat lead from alternator is in poor condition. How did you clean the carb jet? Did you dismantle the carburettor, or just spray carb cleaner / compressed air in?
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I was having idle issues, so cleaned out the auxiliary jet on the carb this seemed to work but then bat would not hold charge and was leaking so assumed it needed replacing.
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Back up a bit. Why did you replace the battery?
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Loom now fitted and clipped into position. Assorted furniture put in to remind me how the loom goes. Air box needs a good clean before it gets fitted permanently. Bonnet release fitted and adjusted too. Had a look round the back end to make sure it's still there - not had the cover off for a while!
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Still waiting for 8mm fuel pipe, so cracked on with stuff up front. The wiring loom was pulled through the bulkhead. I got it all roughly in position to remind me what goes where. The plan is to clean it all and re wrap where necessary before securing it in position. Fitted the rubber isolation blocks that the air box sits on - I found these on Ebay, size wise they're spot on. Before fettling the wiring loom, I decided to clean the headlights so they're ready to go back on. Seen below after the majority of the crud was removed with a cloth and panel wipe.
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I’m sure I put them all back on..
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Thanks for the reply, No didn’t put a plug in!! I assumed it would spark I’m not very car savvy… I’m now assuming the new ign coil will be fine and has a new king lead. So is there any other test things I can do? Cheers Be
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Turns over but will not start
steveo3002 replied to Bungy's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
iirc theres an earth ? from the tci unit direct to the battery...are you sure you didnt leave it off? -
Are you putting a sparkplug in the king lead and resting it on baremetal looking for the flash of sparks. The king connector lead might be dodgy? You could attach a jump lead to negative and hold the plug with that and rest it in the coil central hole and see if it sparks. Points or Hall sender?
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Hello I’m new here!!!!!! Im having issues with my Mk2 Polo S 1989.. it turns over but will not start Don’t seem to have a spark from the king lead so changed the ignition coil and still no luck!!! This seems to have coincided with me changing the battery!!!! Strange Fanks Ben
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Breaking VW Polo 6n 1.8 20vt! ALL PARTS MUST GO
nige8021 replied to Mattnaz's topic in Cars Breaking (For Sale)
I wouldn't hold out much hope of a reply as the OP hasn't been on the forum since June 2017 - Last week
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Breaking VW Polo 6n 1.8 20vt! ALL PARTS MUST GO
Dublove402 replied to Mattnaz's topic in Cars Breaking (For Sale)
Hello I was wondering if you still had the headlights and the cup mirrors -
Dublove402 joined the community
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OE Supplier of Radiator - Where to buy now - G40/GT - 867121253AB
mk2 polo power replied to mk2 polo power's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Thanks for the link - i've bought off Tshopslab before and got massively stung on the old import taxes However that is looking like the closest OEM Rad - so will try to source elsewhere (Engine Cooling Radiator BEHR Fits VW Polo 867121253M 8MK376714-661) -
OE Supplier of Radiator - Where to buy now - G40/GT - 867121253AB
mk2 polo power replied to mk2 polo power's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Called the 'fan ring' - they like to go rusty! -
OE Supplier of Radiator - Where to buy now - G40/GT - 867121253AB
mk2 polo power replied to mk2 polo power's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
I suppose both - mainly cooling capability and the ability to fit with the stock front cowling. Which I found a modified alloy radiator doesn't... Plus this topic may be useful for future readers. The other item is radiator rear cowling and fan. I am looking at slimline fans, but not sure if there is one that fits the stock 4 mounting bolts and plug. It creates space in the engine bay which is nice + finding a good condition stock cowling seems difficult too. -
teotutulan joined the community -
Hi, Problem fixed. It was a break in the wire from the rear right abs connector. the wire loom runs alongside the backseat and follows the rockerpanel on the drivers side up to a connector on the firewall. Not sure if my abs sensor was replaced but there is factory type soldering (a molded solder) that connected the sensor to the wire loom. Inside the isolation one of the solder had corroded completely which caused a break in the circuit. A new wire and a little soldering fixed the connection. Then a reset of the fault code and the abs light went out after starting the car as expected. Thanks
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There is nothing in the dealer workshop manual that gives a guide as to year/serial number etc however the parts listing does give engine serial numbers as a guide https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/2000-240/1/109-109000/#3
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Thank you Nigel for the helpful and very quick response 🙂 Do you know if VW swapped from friction to hydraulic (or vise vera?) at a certain point or could any 1.4 tdi be either? Mine is registered in 2002 if it makes any difference. Once again thanks for the help 🙂 Andy
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First Welcome to the forum. Have a look at this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/331556-6n2-14-tdi-not-good-vibrations-few-questions/?tab=comments#comment-2614541 I've posted the info on the two versions of the cambelt replacement
