All Activity
This stream auto-updates
- Past hour
-
So basically my sunroof is not working, I replaced motor, switch and did a check on wiring to see if current was going thru, the only wire that it didn’t have power to was the red one. now Also my passenger window don’t work , I read online someone saying they are linked that if the passenger side window don’t work the sunroof won’t too... I’ve stripped the dashboard and followed the wire down to the clips at the bottom, I also checked the wire for the look (the red one) and that isn’t showing power, (not sure if it is supposed to) I am so damn confused and need serous help.
- Today
-
Little bit of an update (Just a bit more metalwork) hasn't been cleaned up yet as I've got a couple more bits to go in before work tomorrow, managed to retain the shape of the battery tray so far!
-
I have no idea what's been through these pipes then. They're a bit of a state. Unless they've rusted from the outside from salty air maybe? I found a pipe that i'm hoping is going to fit. Different part number and one extra smaller outlet but if it fits, not a problem to blank off. Found all the parts except a mounting flange to knock up a custom setup if it comes to it.
-
Pr0styl3 joined the community
-
If the coolant water has antifreeze at correct strength then it contains rust inhibitor, usually silicates. https://www.waynesgarage.com/tips/more-tip/antifreeze There are even waterless coolants like Evans but ££s and system needs a pre-flush also not cheap but reusable I think..
- Yesterday
-
I have high temp jb weld and high temp araldite kickin around in my shed. My concern is the state of the pipe that's left and whether it will just continue to corrode and i'll have to replace it anyway.
-
17mm diameter is lot less cross sectional area for coolant to flow through. Could you not mend the leak with a two part epoxy like JBWeld or PlasticPadding's Leakfix like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PLASTIC-PADDING-LEAK-FIX-79g-tube-Hardener/383477977660
-
Might need some bonnet surgery for a power bulge... Think it is 166mm high without any gasket!
-
Robert s joined the community
-
Daveo changed their profile photo
-
A small bit a day keeps the bored away😉👍
-
So i got to the part i needee to from underneath, not with any real issues. Turns out the leak is the joint on the metal coolant pipe where it flares out to connect to the mounting point on the engine. Rusted/corroded through. Can't seem to find a straight up replacement just yet but early days. Also looking into making something up if i need to. If it does come to that, if i have to put coolant hose with a smaller id, would that cause an issue? I only ask as i have some silicone coolant hose in my shed that i bought for something else that i never used. It's 17mm id instead of the 28mm id that is the stock hose. I am still looking for a replacement part though.
-
With the scooter I've been working on all but done, I can get back on this heap. New rear shocks arrived yesterday - the ones on the car seemed to work OK, but they were pretty corroded. Gonna have a clean and tidy up of the shed tomorrow, and get back on with it. 🙂
-
Bostanomer joined the community
- Last week
-
RedRanger joined the community
-
Simon Sturgess changed their profile photo
-
Any more info on this??? I’m looking to run a 1.3 with twin 40’s and a schrick classic cam
-
-
-
2011 VW Polo Moda 1.2 (3 cylinder) trouble starting and poor performance.
Whippy097 replied to Whippy097's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Hi, thanks for responding. I have already taken the car back to quickfit who have told me there is nothing wrong with the alternator or the battery. I know the alternator is producing a voltage but i think it can still produce a voltage while draining the batter and charging it at the same time. I will still try this with my grandparents voltmeter though, thanks! -
Vacuum hose from carb to dizzy
Eviljohn replied to Eviljohn's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Found this in my Haynes. Looks to me like the carb goes underneath the dizzy and the top of the dizzy is connected to the side of the 3 way junction next to vacuum reservoir. -
2011 VW Polo Moda 1.2 (3 cylinder) trouble starting and poor performance.
nige8021 replied to Whippy097's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
First Welcome to the forum. Here's a guide on how to test you're alternator for various problems https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/335902-testing-your-alternator/ -
2011 VW Polo Moda 1.2 (3 cylinder) trouble starting and poor performance.
Whippy097 posted a topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Hello all, hope everyone is staying safe and well while we wait out this virus. A few months ago I bought a used polo as specified above (59 bhp model) when initially buying the car it was in good working order and showed no signs of any issues/ fault codes. I won't go over all the problems I have had with the car as it has been a pain in the rear with lots of small issues here and there. The initial issue I had was the car feeling very sluggish. Poor acceleration and a very rough idle (not just your standard 3 cylinder idle) I felt like the power was being poorly transferred to the wheels, like I was driving an old diesel engine. So about 2 weeks ago I took the car to a local mechanic who I know personally, who told me that all the codes his diagnostics tool read point towards the battery (which I had had replacdd with a new one only a week before) the main fault code being P209700 - POST CATALYST FUEL TRIM SYSTEM BANK 1 TOO RICH. so I took the car back to quickfit to get the battery checked and it came back fully charged and healtyh, along with the alternator. After hearing this I decided to take it direct to VW for a £120 inspection to which they told me the car is absolutely fine. So I drive the car to work and back for two days and then the lockdown hits and she is parked on the driveway. 1 week later I try to start the car and get no crank whatsoever, no noise or movement from the car, no lights or electronics work at all. So I charge the battery to full drive it and the power delivery issue is gone completely. 2 days later I check the car again... This time the car barely starts and after about 15 seconds of intermittent stuttering from the engine it dies. I try it again the next day and it starts reluctantly but does not sputter, also drives well with little loss in power. My suspicion is that there is a parasitic drain from the alternator but at this point I'm not sure (especially seeing as VW gave it the all clear) I will email them to get it in for another inspection which I shan't be paying for... But in the meantime I'd really appreciate any help and advice. I have spend countless hours on Google and have found nothing of use. Sorry for turning this into a short story! Just very frustrated! P.S I have cleaned both the intake manifold and MAP sensor with the suitable chemicals. Reply Quote 1 - 1 of 1 Posts Write your reply... AttachmentInsert linkSmiliesInsert image Bold Unordered list Ordered list editor_dropdown.caliMobile Bold Italic Underline Unordered list Ordered list Quote Code Spoiler Post reply Recommended Reading I got to review the 2020 Polo, and I was shocked how good it was! Polo 0 104 MattBrandCars · updated 10 h ago Polo Speed Sensor Fault Code 16885 Polo 1 12K J jjfencing · updated 1 mo ago mk7 radiator Polo 0 279 AWOL Craig · updated 2 mo ago VW Polo 1.0 TSI Comfortline 2018 Model Aircon Issues Polo 0 223 G GertBester · updated 2 mo ago ACC POLO GTI? Polo 0 157 H Harlex · updated 2 mo ago Read More Home About Us Terms of Use Privacy Policy Help Contact us VerticalScope Inc., 111 Peter St, Suite 901, Toronto, ON, M5V 2H1, Canada vwforum.com is an independent Volkswagen enthusiast website owned and operated by VerticalScope Inc. Content on vwforum.com is generated by its users. vwforum.com is not in any way affiliated with Volkswagen AG. Cookie Preferences by TrustArc Forum software by XenForo RSS -
Whippy097 joined the community
-
Nige, thanks so much for your help. The explanation is - I'm an idiot! A while ago I found some info on someone doing the seal replacement on a Golf with an 020 gearbox, and bookmarked it thinking it would be useful as a guide when we came to do the Polo. That was a while ago. I guess in the intervening time, I forgot that it wasn't a Polo (how did I do that!?) Our box is an AKY (we are lucky enough to have the original service schedule) So obviously we don't need those parts, so we are all set now. (Well except that the place I ordered the actual flange seals from is out of stock so we need to re-order those 😄) Thanks again for your help
-
Hi all. Had to take off my carb, (weber 32 ibf,) 4and inlet manifold for another job. Found the refitting instructions for my carb and it says to connect the vacuum hose on the side of the carb to the vacuum unit on the dizzy, (83 breadvan,) but i'm not sure whether i need to connect it to the top of the vacuum unit or bottom. Can anyone shed any light on this please? Thank you for stopping by and helping if you can.
-
singilamedia joined the community
-
And also started the mirror polishing off on the intake side of the carb’s, and now they’re ready to be rebuilt and have the final polish polish on them, and my next venture is figuring out how to sort out the vac advance dizzy, being at the moment it takeS it vacuum from one carb all intake ports at the same time, now they all have separate throttle so the pulse will be off with out connecting them all together, I got a idea in mind as to how I’m going to get round it problem, I’m thinking something to connect them all together in a mini vacuum plenum thing sitting above the manifolds😆.
-
Start making the manifold up for carbs I’m happy with it so far, once I’m back at the W/shop after all this corona blows over, I’ll make them all in aluminium but for now I got make them in mild steel cause that all I can do from home😉.
-
They are listed on an 89 Golf driveflanges http://www.oemepc.com/vw/part_single/catalog/vw/markt/RDW/modell/GOSY/year/1990/drive_standart/67/hg_ug/409/subcategory/99000/part_id/3691624/lang/e#sec_15 #15
-
Well as you can see there's nothing like that shown in the parts listing, so might be something a gearbox rebuilder has fitted ??
-
Will do, cheers!
-
Hi Nige, thanks for replying. The part we are looking for is the bit being levered out in this photo:
