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Showing content with the highest reputation since 28/12/19 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Turned out to be earth cable! Where it's attached at the base of the cam belt cover, the bolt was loose, thread was chewed up. Ran jump cable from battery negative to engine and it fired up first time!!!!!!! Think i'll stick to flipping meat for a living!!!! Thank you very much for the help and guidance guys. I got there in the end. X
  2. 1 point
    Are you looking for a Polo exhaust (i.e., flex pipe, middle silencer, rear silencer) at OEM sizes or are you looking for something different? If OEM: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1991-120/2/253-25010/ https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1991-120/2/253-25020/ Google the part numbers or pop them into something like Autodoc's search field - all the ones i tried showed examples for sale. I should imagine you're going to have to do some fabricating and exhaust fitting anyway - every exhaust piece I've bought recently needed some minor changes to fit properly thanks to a variety of exhaust parts my polo has collected over the years! If you're looking for something custom then you'll need to either find a tame exhaust fitter/fabricator or have a crack at doing it yourself. I may be wrong but the saloon should be the same underneath - the parts might hang from different points (and so need fitting differently) but as you can see there aren't many options, VW wern't in the habit of using too many 'bespoke' parts eh.
  3. 1 point
    I found it. It's called electrocon. Loads of random electronics in there. I bought a white 12v led for a pound. It's worth a shot!
  4. 1 point
    Last week I put sound deadening in the boot. Paula is missing the backseat. The noise from the boot while driving is really uncomfortable especially on highways. The amount of noise hasn't changed drastically with the mats in the boot, but the unpleasant tinny sound is less present. My plan is to buy a backseat somehwere in germany. With that installed the noise should be reduced quite a bit.
  5. 1 point
    We read the feature a few days ago, lovely story. All the best with the sale! And best wishes to Phyllis!
  6. 1 point

    Time Left: 1 month and 23 days

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Hello, Selling on behalf of an elderly friend who has just given up driving after many years. Car has been owned from new and comes complete with a large file of paperwork, MOTs & even the original invoice. Whilst not by any means a showroom example any more the vehicle is very honest for its age and appears to be structurally and mechanically sound. It has been regularly maintained by the same local independent garage for many years who have ensured it was safe and suitable for the 90-odd year old owner to get around in. It is a very original and worthy survivor now in classic territory and the owner would dearly love for it to go to a good home where it will be cherished and perhaps restored to as new condition. Mileage 141829 miles MOT until 8th May 2020 Asking price is £2000 but open to sensible offers. The car was recently featured in a brief article in the January 2020 edition of Practical Classics magazine and a more comprehensive write-up can be found online here: http://ukmotortalk.co.uk/2019/12/vw-polo-one-lady-owner-for-36-years/ Many thanks in advance for your interest!

    £2,000.00

    Godalming, England - GB

  7. 1 point
    https://youtu.be/sW6EXWvOJYU Enjoy 🙂
  8. 1 point
    I've found some rated for 500amp, listed for use on trucks. Fleabay item number 262854210868 Would the heavier gauge cable be more reliable?
  9. 1 point
    yes thicker than whats on there , mine is 4 gauge about as thick as my finger all im saying is you cant go too big
  10. 1 point
    its a voltage reg /brush pack ...located on the side of the alternator with 2 screws the brushes wear down with age so may /should restore it and the regulator regulates the voltage as the name suggests like i say have a quick look to confirm as some cars have other brand alternators but the one linked is right 9/10 times
  11. 1 point
    a brush pack/voltage reg may well fix the issue , worth replacing on any old polo really 2x screws to fit...check if it looks like this, maybe worth having a spare in the tool box? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12v-ALTERNATOR-VOLTAGE-REGULATOR-BRUSH-BOX-BOSCH-BMW-VAUXHALL-SEAT-QUALITY/273785226095?hash=item3fbedf036f:g:lO0AAOSwOYZeFd5L
  12. 1 point
    Multi-pin connector 1, 8-pin, loudspeaker outputs 1 -Rear right loudspeaker, positive Blue wire 2 -Front right loudspeaker, positive Red wire 3 -Front left loudspeaker, positive Red/Green wire 4 -Rear left loudspeaker, positive Blue/White wire 5 -Rear right loudspeaker, negative Brown/Blue wire 6 -Front right loudspeaker, negative Brown/Red wire 7 -Front left loudspeaker, negative Brown/Green wire 8 -Rear left loudspeaker, negative Brown/White wire Multi-pin connector 2, 8-pin, voltage supply, CAN bus, telephone mute switch 9 -CAN bus high Orange/Black wire 10 -CAN bus low Orange/Brown wire 11 -Telephone mute switch White/Lilac wire 12 -Negative connection, terminal 31 Brown wire 13 -Not assigned Might have a Black/Red wire ? (12v "S" supply "key in ignition" ) Fuse 10 14 -Not assigned 15 -Positive connection, terminal 30 Red/Yellow wire (12v Live battery supply) Fuse 51 16 -Anti-theft coding control signal, SAFE Red/Yellow wire (12v Live battery supply Fuse 51 Multi-pin connector 3, 12-pin, telephone signal input 1–5 -Not assigned 6 -Telephone low-frequency audio signal input, negative 7–11 -Not assigned 12 -Telephone low-frequency audio signal input, positive Multi-pin connector 4, 12-pin, CD changer control and CD audio input signals or iPod cradle 1 -Right headphone output signal, positive 2 -CD changer or iPod cradle, left and right channels, negative 3 -Headphone output signal, audio earth 4 -CD changer, voltage supply, positive 5 -Left headphone output signal, positive 6 -CD changer, DATA OUT (data exchange for CD changer control from radio navigation system to CD changer) 7 -Not assigned 8 -CD changer or iPod cradle, audio output, left channel, positive 9 -CD changer or iPod cradle, audio output, right channel, positive 10 -CD changer or iPod cradle, control signal 11 -CD changer, DATA OUT (data exchange for CD changer control from CD changer to radio navigation system) or iPod cradle 12 -CD changer or iPod cradle, CLOCK (internal check protocol for data flow monitoring)
  13. 1 point
    kinda sounds to me like maybe you never filled it up if it dripped or burned over 3 ltrs of oil you would know about it , oily tail pipe , oil stains all over the place
  14. 1 point
    Has some slight rust on the middle of the door nothing major, £10 if you come and collect it.
  15. 1 point
    Was going to suggest mounting a dashcam on the driver side somewhere so it gets a good wide view of the passenger side....but now it's extended to throwing aged bodily fluids I would park somewhere else and escalate it. Saying that having one on your car might catch them doing it to others.
  16. 1 point
    1.6 gti will go in if you want ...do more research need fuel pumps with pipes and wiring , engine bay wiring , ecu and any immobilser box /transponder
  17. 1 point
    so see who parks in the space and doesnt have key marks you should get on the local fb group...say anyone that parks there is getting vandalised
  18. 1 point
    anything is possible with enough money thrown at it , the turbo engines have been done so would be same work just minus the turbo not really a job for anyone with little experience as its very involved
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    I'll try that thanks Mark, let's hope someone on there can do it
  21. 1 point
    Thank you Nige, it's not a biggie for me if the autolock works or not but good to know, it's just the double lock to lock all doors but even then I'd probably get used to it, main focus is to get this remote working 🙂 And I hope the indicators will flash too with the remote as it doesn't flash when use the key. Just want to make others aware that I think the cheaper alternative (rclick) is probably the best way forward.
  22. 1 point
  23. 1 point
    I've done a bit of searching and heard obdeleven and the carista app can change the settings for all doors unlock/auto unlock etc, then just a matter of trying to pair my remote with the ccu, might be different to 9n users as mines a later 59 plate 9n3, i have a obd mx Bluetooth scan tool so I'll try the carista app later, obdeleven needs its own adapter so I'll give that one a miss. I wish I've not dived into this now without weighing my options, I'd deffinatelly recommend the rclick way to get this to work and I may even go down that route yet. If your confident on joining wires, testing with ohm resistors as my way is deffinatelly not a better way, some say it is as its oem and splicing wires etc, but we'll still be using a non oem remote unless you order a second hand one and the rclick way is much cheaper too. I disagree with recommending any software that costs £225 when there's a much cheaper method and you can join the wires to indicators to get them working with remote, not sure on the autolock method with rclick as haven't looked into it yet. I'll try to get my remote working first then decide and I'll post back. I've followed this guide, like for like with parts and unless your willing to pay £45 pounds as I've been quoted on getting the key working by getting an auto locksmiths or even worse still buying the £225 software then I'd advise to stay away from this way. I'm sure a local garage will fit a rclick at a reasonable price if not confident enough to do it.
  24. 1 point
    That's way too much and I still might not be able to use the software, yes it is an auto locksmiths too, I'd say he'd have the correct software but not sure, if your near to where I live in coventry or know anyone who is who would be willing to program this up for me at a cost of course I'd be most grateful, I am willing to travel but not too far though. Thanks for the links nige.
  25. 1 point
    I doubt the locksmith would have VCDS you might be better looking for an autoelectrician local to you, as they would possibly have the kit, you can get the VCDS lite for free just need the correct cable but I don't think it would give you the coding options as it is mainly for just reading the codes only with the full version can you do the coding This is the cheapest full version https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VCV23.html they also sell the lead to use with the lite version https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html it says to 2003 models but it will work on later models just not as fast as the HEX-CAN of the first link and some modules in the car it won't work with like the airbag as that only connects via the CANbus system
  26. 1 point
    Thanks nige, I haven't got any software, I'd got a quote from my local locksmiths when I was there getting key cut, would you think this would be my best route to take now? Wouldn't mind paying for the software if reasonable price but not worth hundreds for a one off use.
  27. 1 point
    The autolock or anti-hijack mode need to be coded into the CCU with VCDS and the same with the single door or all door lock/unlock
  28. 1 point
    Took a few attempts to register on this site, I'm a new vw polo owner, the above post is mine if anyone has any ideas I'd be much appreciated. Thank you.
  29. 1 point
    That’s them. Legend mate, thanks. I need to bookmark that site.
  30. 1 point
    Over the weekend I removed the windscreen cowl to get to the cabin filter ( Polo 6N) and broke most of the little square tabs/clips in the process. I’ve been scouring the net trying to find the part but can only find round ones or 16mm ones, not the ~10mm that I require. Does anybody know the part number of these little buggers? There are 4 or 5 and they secure the plastic cowl to the body, over which the rubber seal folds.
  31. 1 point
    Looking on this site https://7zap.com/en/ this is the part number 6N0 815 478
  32. 1 point
    Hi Team Well this is my new purchess Know very ;little about the history of the car but as you can see needs alittle work Main Jobs i will be doing Service Sort rust gt clocks longterm respray modify (possible engine conversion) All comments welcome good or bad i don't mind either I don't take offence easily
  33. 1 point
    Time wrap this one up, it was off to the scrappy today It had been a great car but a failing left knee and hips made it painful to drive so it was time to go, it has been replaced with a Touareg 3l V6 tiptronic
  34. 1 point
    Hi All, I have just fixed the exact same problem on a 1986 Formel E Polo. I did have 12v at pin 14 on the main cluster plug. (See 2nd or 3rd posts) If you follow the printed circuit track from that pin you will find it goes directly to the inside pin of the voltage regulator. There should be 12v at that pin. I had 0v. Examination showed a break in the pcb track which wasn't repairable so I soldered a bridgeing wire from the black wire that goes to terminal 14 to the leg of the voltage regulator. This has been a success! I also put a bullet connector in the middle of the wire so that the instrument cluster isn't permanently soldered to it's connecting plug!
  35. 1 point
    class! excellent work as usual😎
  36. 1 point
    Thanks 😊 I'll go have a look
  37. 1 point
    Got a little time around the car today so I installed a usb plug and volt meter we’re th cigarette lighter goes as I don’t smoke
  38. 1 point
    The days Come the poloscome out of its cacoon, the engine can come out of my mums kitchen, it’s home for years. She’ll be happy understatement hahahah looking all the bits and bobs thinking were the feck does that go it might be a bit of a way off but wish me luck appreciate any help
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