Jump to content


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 15/09/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    athe broken earth made the car think it was freezing outside , car ran overly rich and ruined the o2 sensor and cat by running so rich the blue temp sender and its wiring are key to these cars running right - any problems go straight to this , cheap and easy to repair and always use a genuine part
  2. 2 points
    Had a bit of time today so finished off installing the new cat and joining it up with the rest of the exhaust. As per their instructions I 'ran it in' on idle for 10 minutes and then went for a normal drive around the block. Put in a second-hand but presumed well-working Bosch lambda probe (although I have a new one coming just in case this one isn't up to the job). Well it sounds better - guess the exhaust is that much straighter than it used to be and a heap of it is stainless now, got a nice throat to it on a rev. Can't tell if its that much better than before or not but I can't smell the exhaust at all now. Plenty of action out the back of it but its probably all just steam given how humid and weird the weather is today. It definitely pulls even better than it did when I sorted the oxygen sensor and the engine vibrations are totally different so something has changed! Try and squeeze it in tomorrow or Monday for a retest, fingers crossed.
  3. 2 points
    good stuff some folk add an extra to the o2 sender for good measure too
  4. 2 points
    Camera on phone is pants so excuise the poor pics.
  5. 1 point
    Had a proper look and probe of that loom and it made sense - both relay coils were wired parallel, honestly nothing wrong with the thing. So i shortened the wires i'd made and ran it straight off the alternator (closer to the lights at least, right?). Disconnected the dimming resistor too (found the plug, aye) It works as it should. Honestly I think this idle weirdness is just a red herring mixed with my over-sensitivity for running issues at the moment. I measured the voltage drop over the old wiring at 1.85v and over the new loom at 0.97v. Did it in the day so can't tell the difference in terms of light but that should be a fair bit brighter eh. Got 13.6-odd volts at the bulbs now, same as at the battery when the alternator is running.
  6. 1 point
    There's a voltage regulator on the back of the clocks. That brings 14v down 5v I think. Doubt it can cope with reverse polarity, was ignition on when you were stupid with jump leads? um, 1994 breadvan... mk2f not 6n.
  7. 1 point
    you would think something shorted to earth would pop a fuse or melt the wire rather quickly sorry its dud ...it should be just like the diagram in the link , can probably adapt it to be correct , relays are cheap
  8. 1 point
    My polosocialpics My vacationpics from the uk and ireland from before and after it cheers Christian
  9. 1 point
    https://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html check the relays are wired same as here
  10. 1 point
    Hi folks, Just to update and close this out for those who may find this post helpful in the future. I didn’t see any improvement after trying to bleed the cooling system of air so in the end I pulled the pump out and found that the plastic impeller was broken. It had sheared off the shaft completely. Replaced the pump with a good quality German made unit and the car is now running better than ever. Thanks Nige8021 and Caretakerplus for your help, it was much appreciated! Cheers, Matt
  11. 1 point
    Good point - could do with a recap to properly close this thread in case anyone needs it in the future: The failure was caused by an earth fault between the coolant temperature sender and the ECU. This caused v rich running for an extended period which then destroyed the cat and the lambda sensor. The temperature sensing fault was rectified first, making sure both the correct resistance and the earth were seen by pins 10 and 8 of the ECU. Once that was done and it was confirmed the primary casue of overfuelling was fixed (new plugs came out clean rather than sooty after a run) then the cat and lambda were both replaced.
  12. 1 point
    yeah good stuff ...hope the aftermarket cat lasts you a few years
  13. 1 point
    Result! It passed! Not that I should be surprised considering its got a new cat and lambda but relieved nonetheless. Fast idle CO: 0.13% HC's: 76ppm Lambda: 1.007 Natural Idle CO: 0.04% Also only got 3 advisories for rusty springs too. Thanks for the advice and pointers! Interested to see what the mpg is like now - I got 40mpg with that crazy over-fuelling, would be nice to approach 50.
  14. 1 point
    very simple to fit but fine you can ask put the relays somewhere dry , and you might find the alternator + post is easier to feed the relays that running it the battery
  15. 1 point
    yes totally bit more comfort for those dark nights ...fully reversible so doesnt ruin the car try and place the relays somewhere semi dry , tucked away , mine are in a sealed project box or some filk use a rubber glove or something , if it ever went wrong you can convert back to standard on the road side , no down sides to doing this at all
  16. 1 point
    The shop name is New German Performance. They're on the east cost of the US. I don't believe there is an actual build thread but here is a link to a photo album on their facebook from when it was finished. (I hope that link works) https://www.facebook.com/pg/newgermanperformance/photos/?tab=album&album_id=10151360677245571&ref=page_internal
  17. 1 point
    nightbreakers are decent the real key to decent lights is you need a loom with relays - you can gain over a volt or sometimes two with a relay which results in much more output see here - potential 2-3x output 10.5V : 510 lumens 11.0V : 597 lumens 11.5V : 695 lumens 12.0V : 803 lumens 12.5V : 923 lumens 12.8V : 1000 lumens ←Rated output voltage 13.0V : 1054 lumens 13.5V : 1198 lumens 14.0V : 1356 lumens ←Rated life voltage https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/H4-9003-HID-Spot-Work-Driving-Light-Bar-Wiring-Loom-Harness-12V-Relay-Switch-Kit/323867851472?hash=item4b68073ad0:g:GWsAAOSwdJtdOWr0
  18. 1 point
    Really smartened it up I think, thanks!
  19. 1 point
    Hi glad that boot lid came in handy.
  20. 1 point
    Dropped the oil as I didn't facy a face full of it! Kept the (brass?) bushing in and just prized the old seal out, slid the new one in and tapped it flat with a big socket. The grease has part number G052128A1 - 'Radial shaft sealing grease'. Its blue, don't know what its made of! Happy to lend you the tube if you like, you'll only need a smidge.
  21. 1 point
    That lambda sensor looks like my granddad's coal fire poker. Getting there though.
  22. 1 point
    yeah it comes off...4 13mm bolts on mine
  23. 1 point
    yeah sounds good , nothing else i can think off to help in the past its been a trick to take the air filter out to get it down a bit more for the test ...maybe an option ?
  24. 1 point
    It covers all Digifant I&II cars, as far as I know they all use the same/similar sensors. I can't get a link just now as its blocked on my work PC but if you google "digifant I and II pro training manual" you should be able to find it as a pdf. Its a proper VW manual and covers everything you should need. Serious amount of useful info
  25. 1 point
    heres what i have...dont trust it 100% you should be able to see what wire colour goes in the reverse to confirm
  26. 1 point
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LASER-3932-Terminal-Tool-VAG-VOLKSWAGEN-AUDI/273294488055?hash=item3fa19ef1f7:g:Da8AAOSw6VNbIh-V these are to release the terminal, can get away with a thin screwdriver or such for a one off job...have a look at the other links and see the 2 prongs you need to push down
  27. 1 point
    easiest fix if get your self a length of wire and some crimps ....replace the earth wire at the blue sender plug and then either follow the loom up and join it near the ecu(dont cut the wire as other sensors share it , or simply fit a ring terminal and earth it on the head or other convenient location ( id go for a earth on the head etc) should be pin 8 at the ecu shared with brown white on throttle pot and inlet temp if this appears to fix it id suggest a oil change and a good motorway run to see if will clean up the cat /02 sensor https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-x-Junior-Timer-Contacts-Genuine-TE-Part-Part-No-925596-1/140938481505?hash=item20d0968f61:g:bdIAAOSwvlJZ5NDs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RANGE-OF-FULLY-INSULATED-CRIMP-RINGS-Electrical-Wire-Terminal-Connectors-Cable/192097004531?hash=item2cb9dfabf3:m:mpFiDZXJMN5wK1_vEGvi0nA
  28. 1 point
    Right... might be getting somewhere (having to dart in and out of the house with this bloody rain at the moment!) All of the plugs are sooted (not surprising), with some white deposits between the electrodes that I assume is oxides. No difference at all between plugs - they're all uniformly dry carbon fouled. Temperature sender reads just shy of 3k which is correct for today's cold equilibrium temperature (probably around 17 degrees today eh). There is continuity between the green/grey signal wire on the sender plug and pin 10 of the ECU plug (or what I assume is pin 10 - there's continuity with a pin anyway). However, the brown/white wire that is supposed to pair with pin 8 and earth is not showing continuity with any of the plug pins and shows infinite resistance to all engine earths and the negative battery terminal. Double-checked against other sensor earths and all of the others show continuity with ground - looks like the sensor doesn't have a ground. With nothing to measure resistance across I assume the ecu is seeing freezing temperatures all the time. Going to keep darting out inbetween showers and start peeling back the looming tape to get to where this wire is going. Is there a pin diagram for the ECU plug anywhere online? I have the electrical diagram in Haynes but there aren't any numbered markings on the plug to cross-check. Pretty narked - I was sure I found this earthing fault before and fixed it, evidently I didn't.
  29. 1 point
    lambda 0.669 (*14.7) is AFR 9.8:1 (for petrol) which is plug fouling rich and sooty smoke out of exhaust. High HC is unburnt fuel or oil. Check the plugs? Oily or sooty or clean will guide you. If oily and ignition timing right, compression or preferably leak down test will confirm the worst. .
  30. 1 point
    had to say , id be tempted to find an old skool garage thats intrested in helping , most garages will have a gas tester they can put on it and see whats going on hard to believe its done 9k and getting good mpg if its that far out does your have the diagnostic plug near the glove box area never had a spi myself from memory you need around 350-450 ohms on the blue sender when hot , around 2000 cold , check at the sensor and trace the wires to the ecu and conform the ecu is seeing the true value incase of a squashed wire
  31. 1 point
    disconnected o2 and no cat should be not far off the pass figures , its only there to fine tune it 12% is mental ...surprised its running , imagine it would stink of fuel and blacken the plugs dont really know what to say or suggest ..guessing theres no indication of misfire? , id nt fit a new cat or o2 sensor until its sussed out , as id imagine running that rich would ruin them quickly
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    Bit of a milestone in this the other day. Only doing a thousand miles a year in it - should last me out at this rate. 🙂
  34. 1 point
    The US never got the Polo. However, this one has been floating around here since 2007ish. I was fortunate enough to pick this one up only two miles down the road from my house.
  35. 1 point
    Sorry for the lack of updates, progress has been a bit slow getting all the bodywork issues sorted to be honest and a lot of it has ended up in the dustpan! Plus issues with the fitment of the existing exhaust & fuel tank for which part numbers seem to be right but fit is iffy. I have still been building up the parts stash though, most recently a boxed NOS hard-rim steering wheel and NOS trim parts for the leading edges of both the front wings as well as a set of '74-'76 Audi 50 waist trims for the sides - all stainless with a flick up on rear quarter rather than the '75-'76 Polo straight stainless or '76< Polo/50 plastic flick-up types. Hopefully as things calm down after the summer I'll make some better progress!
  36. 1 point
    Put some new shoes on today aswell
This leaderboard is set to London/GMT+01:00
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines