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Showing content with the highest reputation since 26/12/21 in all areas

  1. I have acquired myself a 6n2! Meet Peggy, my first car and first of many VWs I'm sure! I bought her off someone off this forum, and I'm excited to get started on this project.
    2 points
  2. Galva, I invested a certain amount of money in making myself a comprehensive test rig, with slave module, switch panels, 'mock' door locks and all the other necessary connections. I also invested a very large amount of my time reverse-engineering the modules and figuring out what goes wrong. So yes, for now it's about earning some money back for my efforts whilst also providing a repair service that will generally be much cheaper and more reliable than buying over-priced second-hand modules on ebay, or brand new from VWAG. Which car do you have with this module type,
    2 points
  3. Try this on driver's side: The fact that switch doesn't light up, and this latest test result suggests to me that some broken wires may be found.
    2 points
  4. The easiest way to check it's not a power issue is (if the car's got central locking), put the key in the drivers door and hold it in the unlock position. The windows should drop. You can close them by holding the key the other way. It's not an exhaustive test, but if it does work, you can be reasonably sure that the motors are getting power on both sides of the car, and that it's probably a control issue. If you're swapping a module for a second hand one. Make sure you match the part numbers on the unit, and be aware that the second hand one might not be a lot better
    2 points
  5. Thanks for your help Pete I took it to the garage along the road and he done it for a tenna
    2 points
  6. Ok, the puff of mist might change in shape when you stop cranking as the engine is no longer sucking. Since your car won't start its difficult for you to judge because until you've seen it misting when running its hard to know what is "normal". Was the back of the brass throttle plate looking shiny wet with petrol? I would follow the spark and fuel methods suggested above (make sure to test all the plugs individually to prove them all). If spark is good and she starts using easy-start and you therefore know its a fuel problem, you could also try these: i)
    1 point
  7. @StuartBrenin The OP hasn't been on here since July 2015 so maybe send them a PM ?
    1 point
  8. All of the wiring for the valve goes through a 14 pin connector down by the thermostat housing and they are prone to corrosion on the pins/sockets normally affecting the Lambda sensor wiring On the valve connector you're looking for +12v on pin 1 via fuse 30, a 5v supply on pin 2 and a ground on pin 4
    1 point
  9. That's from the dealer manual as I don't think the Haynes will cover this, The Valve is N18 G212 is the position sensor and if you see there is a box with 25 in it that is the 5v sensor supply from pin 62 of the ECU and another box with 35 is the sensor earth that goes back to pin 54 on the ECU
    1 point
  10. The solution? speak to Pete, send your motor to him and he will fix it....i cant share what Pete has done - thats his business, good luck.
    1 point
  11. Great work. The gearbox is easy I have done a few now. I'm currently cleaning my 1970 beetle gearbox now that's hard work compared.
    1 point
  12. I've had 2f ones on early mk2's before, worked fine, I think I used the hose off a mk2f tank, but this is going back about 15 years.
    1 point
  13. yeah its what i will do the bracket is avail new , worst case a foot of hose and an andaptor...not even sure its needed but those hoses do vary over the years
    1 point
  14. Nice work Steve, it's really coming together now.
    1 point
  15. A little more was cleaned and put back where it belongs. First up the rear seat backs were fitted, closely followed by the boot floor carpet and load cover/parcel shelf. I've got so used to seeing the spare wheel through the hatch window that it looks odd to me with all this stuff back in position. Time was short on it today, so once the bits you sit on were fitted, I had to vacate. Hopefully I'll get some more bits cleaned and refitted soon.
    1 point
  16. Having the fins at 90 degrees to the air flow will cause more turbulence with small circular eddies pulling more heat away from the cover and drawing cooler 'fresh' air in to their wake. If the fins were in-line with the air flow front-to-back then they would create laminar flow so less efficient heat removal. That said it's probably not so technical and, as @setch says, they just look cool! 😆
    1 point
  17. cos they look cool :P
    1 point
  18. I like the shinys :). Engine looking good! I hope to get mine looking as nice.
    1 point
  19. My apologies @Highbury I've misinformed you about that fuse 18 feed, that doesn't exist on the 9N version. Forget that. I'll edit my post above to improve accuracy.
    1 point
  20. A 2002 (9N) car won't have exactly the same type of motor module as this thread is covering, but the power wiring is mainly the same. I'd suspect a broken wire in the driver's side door bellows might be your problem. One thing to try is to use the key in the door lock to unlock the car, but keep it held fully round and see if the windows go down, or not. If they do go down, there must be at least the main power feeds and earths intact, but there is also an ignition switched 12V feed from fuse 18 on a black/blue wire that it would be good to check at the module. This one:
    1 point
  21. Looking great! Engine looks amazing, Cannot wait to see it in your polo
    1 point
  22. Very smart. You can fit a high lift cam with the Sorg cover (or 'Soro' as yours now reads,which is close to a direct translation from German to 'worry'). Beats me why the fins are lengthwise, if they are for cooling.
    1 point
  23. Quick search on ebay found this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185245000511?hash=item2b2176633f:g:FN0AAOSwpMFhva6O the newer version of the 6N1 (different speedo) and not many more miles than yours so I would say £2.5k looks a bit optimistic
    1 point
  24. Possibly a matter of getting the belt fully located on all the other pulleys except the tensioner first, so it doesn't have to climb over any lips. Oh, and try turning your spanner the other way, see if it's meant to release the opposite way to what you expect.
    1 point
  25. It's 2.5mm² wire so a blue butt crimp should do it, for example these that have a heat-shrinkable sleeve to add environmental protection. Do you have a decent crimp tool? GTSE 25 Pack of Blue Heat Shrink Butt Connectors – 5.5mm Entry - Premium Waterproof Crimp Terminals : Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools
    1 point
  26. Got the carpets and a few interior trim pieces back in this morning. I decided to have a search for the other two mudflaps in my assorted storage facilities - I found them, but one of the Griffins has escaped! On the hunt for a replacement now. In the afternoon I gathered up a load of interior stuff from home, and carted it all over to the shed. I wasn't planning to put the dash back in today, but thought that I may as well get it started. Plonked in loosely to work out where the spaghetti needs to go. Harde
    1 point
  27. just think how accurate you could have it with a nice mpi set up
    1 point
  28. Great info thanks all. It's a '1.05' HZ engine with Weber 32 TLA (with manual choke conversion) dvderlm you were right in that it seems to have been a blocked jet or fuel filter. I cleaned out the filter (it's a reusable type) and blew through the idle jet then ran some carb cleaner through the carb inlet and its idling much better now and doesn't need choke once warmed up.
    1 point
  29. Not sure which engine/ carb set up you have, but If the thin pipe to the air cleaner is cracked that will introduce air, though I wouldn’t have thought enough to stop it idling altogether.You can plug it at the carb end to discount it. If carb has an idle cut off valve make sure the earth strap is fitted between the carb and the cylinder head, if this is detached the engine won’t idle and will run rough. My 1L HZ with the Pierburg had this problem when the crimp became loose and detached itself. I initially thought the flange had split.
    1 point
  30. If engine will idle, you can find a vacuum leak by spraying carb cleaner or cold start (diethyl ether) at the outside of carb and vac lines and listening to engine sound. The former spray will slow engine, the latter speed it up. Over-tightening the base mount nuts can pull the captive threads out of new mounts, especially as these don't appear to be as well made as 20 years ago. Febi and Birth SPA appear to be good still. How clean is the fuel filter? You may have coincidental blockage in the idle circuit. (perhaps from disturbing the fuel
    1 point
  31. Thank you for the information, after the new year I will provide you with the available information on my part on this radio tape recorder. You can choose English in it. there are 4 languages: English, Japanese, Chinese and Korean. we also managed to collect information on the can bus. for which cars which one is suitable. and I can reset the data from my key card to the radio tape recorder, and you may be able to send a copy of the card and use it in your radio tape recorder Merry christmas and happy new year
    1 point
  32. I've just seen this very sad news, the 22 year old woman has been identified as Evie Grace Reynolds so my thoughts are with her family and all those involved, including as mentioned above the driver, who must all be having the worst Christmas. I think there are only two cars matching that description currently on-the-road and the Hemel Hempstead location narrows that to one. @dvderlm is spot on, many of us drive very old cars with very limited passenger safety features. This applies especially to those of us who swap in more powerful motors even if we upgrade the brakes.
    0 points

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