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Showing content with the highest reputation since 27/01/21 in all areas

  1. no dont paint it ...it relies on the small serrations on the edge to work properly
    3 points
  2. ^ you can use a long screwdriver as a prybar to move the lever on the brake shoe enough to hook the cable in , no shoe removal needed , did mine last week
    3 points
  3. Loving the Ziebart sticker, my grandad had a Cortina with the same one. It worked well, there wasn't a spot of rust on the sticker. The rest of the car..... different story.
    3 points
  4. Thank you for your replies. It’s in the garage now and through the insurance. Had a few private quotes that were around the £3k mark. My insurance is with admiral - I’m a key worker and they’ve said it’s important to keep me on the road so I can get to work. Therefore, they’ve paid my £500 excess and given me a free courtesy car for the duration of the repairs. I couldn’t be more complimentary of them!!
    2 points
  5. More progress over the weekend. Firstly cleaning up the carpets with the same product I used on the seats. In addition to the two main fitted carpet pieces there is a section for the base of the A-pillar on both sides which I stuck on with spray adhesive. Pleased with how the carpet came out so got the seats and under-dash trays in. Next job was the parcel shelf which was missing the pivot pins on both sides meaning it just sat on the rubber hooks that hold the seat base to the top mounts.
    2 points
  6. Greetings from Seattle, USA! I owned this exact car (K786 VVV) in 1994 and joined this forum just to post here. I've attached a photo of it from when I owned it in Surrey back in the day. This was my first fast car and I absolutely loved it! It was so light and nimble. I eventually sold it for a Blackberry Metallic Corrado VR6 a year or so later. It's fun to see it again after all these years, still clinging to life. When I bought this car, the dealer said there were five cars in this spec that were prizes at a Genesis tour, and all the ones that came to the UK had similar license plates - but
    2 points
  7. So I managed to get the chrome trim into the front and rear screen seals with plenty of soapy water. I'd also fitted the dealer sticker that @Lovejoy kindly remade for me based on the screwed-up fragment I found in the rear inner wing 2 years ago. Also a Ziebart Rustproofing shield sticker just as a joke considering how rusty this thing was (well it makes me laugh). Fitted the NOS rear badge, wing mirrors, wipers, front plate etc. Then it was time for the drive home. Made it and test fitted the correc
    2 points
  8. Got the glass and brightwork fitted except for the tailgate chrome strip and the front/rear screen chrome-bead. Starting to look more complete with the grill placed in but not fitted yet as I forgot to take down the clips.
    2 points
  9. from memory ...with all 4 wheels on the ground , normaly loaded boot etc , the spring should have a little slack , so that when you do load the car /boot the spring will make contact and work the valve gradually
    1 point
  10. She is looking stunning mate. Especially considering how tired she was when you started
    1 point
  11. A loose connection causes high resistance in a circuit, which in turn creates heat.If the fuse is the correct rating, hasn’t blown and you’ve not overdone it with the lamp wattages, I’d guess this is the most likely cause. If they are spade connections it might have spread slightly, especially if they have been removed and refitted a few times, or it could even have occurred at assembly in the factory, when it was all put together.
    1 point
  12. The attention to detail is fantastic! Excellent work, I cannot wait to see it in the metal at some point 😎
    1 point
  13. Just a thought, have the relays got back EMF protection diodes across the coil ? as if that went short circuit the current draw would go crazy (but might not blow the fuse) and if that connector was in poor condition it would be the weakest point and heat up ??
    1 point
  14. In the Autodata wiring, Yellow/Black is Left Headlight from fuse#7 and the Right headlight is just Yellow no stripe from fuse 8
    1 point
  15. Name: Adam Age: 28 Location: Castleford, Wakefield. Previous car history: Various lupos, Arosas, Mk4 gold and Fabia vrs se Current cars: Vw caddy Maxi 2.0tdi, Vw Lupo gti, Mazda 2 sport. Hobbies/interests: Cars, Mtb, Football. Occupation: Repair and painter of all transportation How did you hear about us?: Club Lupo made me think club polo and here I am. So this is the Gti bought as a cat N for a steal! Didn’t even meet its reserve! Then I still got it! Spec: cruise Sensors camera nav. Plans... repair, is38 and
    1 point
  16. repack some grease into the bearings while its off
    1 point
  17. It’s likely you’ll need to de-adjust the shoes to get the drums off. This is done by pushing up the adjuster segment with a screwdriver through a drum wheel bolt hole.The adjuster is situated on the leading side of the shoes, that is, towards the front of the car. This photo( that I half inched and saved from a google search many moons ago) shows the adjuster. Your aim is to push up from the point the spring attaches to the segment to slacken the adjustment. On reassembly, don’t tighten the hub nut up too much as it’ll damage the bearing.I adjust mine as follows, as th
    1 point
  18. Was it the foot brake at 30kg or the handbrake? If the footbrake, it could be seized wheel cylinders, especially if it’s been stood so long.The handbrake would still work, as it’s operating the shoes independently.
    1 point
  19. possibly adjusters a bit sticky and need a clean up , can also poke something through a wheel bolt hole and manually move the wedge to fine tune the adjustment
    1 point
  20. Cheers man, the Louvre is made by a company called prantom from Facebook
    1 point
  21. wow amazing louvre! is it custom made? block is looking great, i admire the dedication to the project ! greetings from netherlands 🙂
    1 point
  22. Had this Genesis for four years and sold it today. Funds will go towards my 91 gt breadvan project and a new bigger compressor. The gt breadvan im working on will be the fourth breadvan now.
    1 point
  23. 😎 almost a shame to put hubcaps on those!
    1 point
  24. Thats a good price for the engine block .
    1 point
  25. Little update, scored a g40 (PY) engine for £200. The cylinder head shown is just an aav for now. Also some rear louvres from Poland, I’ll get them crinkle black powder coated. G40 will be fully rebuilt before I fit it to the car; however I’ve still got a lot of machining to do.
    1 point
  26. Yeti makes a good point re the cables, especially the rear ones, which are the ones most likely to cause problems, and also it being a good time to inspect the condition of the rear brakes(shoes & wheel cylinders for leaks or seizing). I recently purchased a QH brand one for my 89 MK2 from eBay for £5, part no BC2236 If you do just the front one then it should be easy enough to get off, getting it back on in my experience, is a bit trickier. At the handbrake end there is a 10mm nut which needs undoing, which you’ll need a small spanner or a socket for .
    1 point
  27. If you're ordering parts off the reg number, make sure you get the parts for a 1986-onwards car. You could just replace the one cable, but I'd personally replace the all 3 if they're age unknown, as the new front cable can mean that bits of the rear cable that are getting a bit rough are having to go through the end of the plastic sheath and start binding. It's worth having your rear drums off and give them a clean and inspect while they're apart. Also re-adjust the rear brakes by tapping the wedge upwards. Give all the fixings a wire brushing and a good soak of your f
    1 point
  28. Couple of Friday afternoon jobs today to pick me up from a pretty poor week. Firstly I waxed the cavities which will shortly be hidden by the carpet and side-cards. I used aerosol Corrolan Active from the same people I got the epoxy paint paint and sundries from; https://www.rust.co.uk/product/corrolan-active-cavity-wax--201. I used the can warmed to room temp near a radiator and it sprayed on well You could hardly see it until you touched it (yes I covered that bit back up!) or it cooled down. Make sure you get the tube attachment that allows you to keep the aerosol can upright but spray tro
    1 point
  29. I'd probably swap a fuse before crawling under the car.
    1 point
  30. Thanks stevo. And sorry @1vw2many for the hijack!
    1 point
  31. thats looking amazing! It's so good to get them back after paint. I wish I'd managed to get the golf back together that quickly!
    1 point
  32. I would check the main fuses on top of the battery, they are like flat bits of metal and they are known to fracture giving low voltage to the likes of the ABS/EPAS you need to unbolt them to check as just looking at them insitu isn't normally conclusive
    1 point
  33. its not too bad if theres movement , lash some penetrating oil on it and give it a good whack ,, some of the bushes will rust onto the bolt so bad theyre almost permanent ...good reason to apply a dab of copper grease when you assemble
    1 point
  34. That Molotow Liquid Chrome, you can buy it in refill packs, so you can use in an airbrush, gives a much better finish
    1 point
  35. Wow I think you're right I was looking at that diagram and got the perspective wrong - thought it was depicted much higher I'm checking some photos on google and matching it
    1 point
  36. If plastic part could be the oil separator, oil breather
    1 point
  37. Oh phoenix red swallowtail. Bit rarer than my one then!
    1 point
  38. Also, just realised, when I owned this polo I also had a mars red early chrome bumpered mk1 golf very similar to yours sitting next to it on the drive!
    1 point
  39. I have a brand new old stock front windscreen seal I planned to put on this car if you interested. It's looking great by the way
    1 point
  40. Thank you for the reply. I have replaced the pump and it works now.
    1 point
  41. Model - Polo coupe s Engine - MH 1272 cc Colour - Tornado red Suspension - Standard Brakes - Standard Wheels - Hockenheim alloys Exterior - Standard After looking for another polo for quite a while I managed to find this little gem. The last owner of this had a white coupe up for sale as a project that I was going to look and, however he had a red coupe s in his drive along with a blue gt. As soon as my eyes landed on this I knew straight away I had to get it. Picked it up fairly locally and off I
    1 point
  42. think its this ...part number in description https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Audi-085-Gearbox-shaft-Seal-085311113-New-genuine-VW-part/113673189935?epid=1916955273&hash=item1a77733a2f:g:t6cAAOSwX2JcfRqA
    1 point
  43. Most problems are down to broken wires in the flexy rubber tube between the door and body. With VCDS you can get a lead from here https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html there are Chinese copies on eBay but I would buy from a reputable source, then you can for free download the VCDS Lite with that you can do quite a lot of things but not as many as the full version https://www.gendan.co.uk/category_145.html I think your correct in that the previous postings was about a window problem, but if you get that lead and do a scan it might throw up some better idea as to
    1 point

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