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Showing content with the highest reputation since 04/06/20 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    I don't think they ever did a manual for the mk2 caddy. The Polo manual should get you a fair way, particularly if it's for a 6n (96-00 ish). VAG have a way of doing things which is fairly common to most of the cars in the range, just be a little bit careful with torque settings when you're doing stuff up. Wikipedia is a bit out. They're derived from the Seat Ibiza/Cordoba (typ 6k). The Inca is utterly the same thing as the Caddy apart from the clocks and some of the plastics., both being typ 9k. The Polo Saloon and Estate is a similar story, basically being a re-dress of the Cordoba and Cordoba Vario, sharing very little with the Polo Hatchback apart from looks. The Caddy/Inca's are made out of a bit of everything to be fair. Mechanically, the front end is pretty much mk3 Golf but with the later SDI engine in instead of the old D, which is a lot of the reason why the wings are so wide. The 93-99 Ibiza/Cordoba manual will tell you quite a bit, but it won't cover the SDI engine specifically, although they're not a lot different to the D engine other than the pump and the throttle actuator. The later bubble-shaped Ibiza/Cordoba 6L is a totally different car, based on the 9n Polo. VAG were basically trying to get the mileage out of the brands they bought in the 90's (Seat and Skoda). The weirdest bit is, there was a Caddy Pickup at the same time as the mk2 caddy van, that had utterly nothing in common with the Van, being a a Skoda Felicia Pickup (Typ 797) with a VW grill on.
  2. 1 point
    Hello all new to the polo scene, recently got myself a breadvan , 1991 mk2f 1.0l AAU engine Been lowered 40mm all round and ply lined the back and seat removal. Other than that standard. Any suggestion of where to take it next welcome off to have some body work done next week, both sills replacing (surface rust only for now but may as well get new on it)and a dent pulled on the rear arch James
  3. 1 point
    It's a Seat Cordoba underneath, for all your racing hertiage..... but so's a Polo Saloon, so we'll take that πŸ™‚ Yeah, there's a mixed air flap at the back of the dashboard, if you trace the (blue?) cable back, you should find it. Mine did the same thing and freed up fairly easily. The front of the dash comes out easily if you want to check it's the blue one, but I'm reasonably sure it is.
  4. 1 point
    Not sure what year a mk2 caddy might be, but on most recentish models of VW, the temperature control is done by airflow direction rather than coolant flow. so the matrix always has hot coolant running through it, but the incoming cabin air will be routed through it, or bypass it depending on requested temperature. At a guess, your heater control flap is either stuck in wrong position, or letting air through itself.
  5. 1 point
    @Deangoes into tomorrow to get it all sorted
  6. 1 point
    Hello @JShaw and welcome to our owners club, a nice little project you've got there. I'd definitely start at the body work first and go from there.
  7. 1 point
    @Pontoneer If the tenth digit of the VIN is a 2, the microswitch is part number 6Q0953236C, if instead it's a 3, then the part numbers you want are 6Q0953236E and bracket 1C0 971 845, according to this page: https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/2002-253/8/823-823010/#17 The dates given in the data model column on that page are rather confusing, and suddenly (and only) make sense if you delete the leading '20' from each, which is some sort of glitch, I believe. The suffix-E part number is slightly silly money new genuine e.g. https://www.allcarpartsfast.co.uk/vw-audi-seat-skoda/vw-audi-seat-skoda-6q0953236e-switch/. There's one on ebay for rather less, but still a lot! https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6Q0953236E-VW-Polo-9N3-05-08-Bonnet-Lock-with-Micro-Switch-36-00-RRP/153774526178?epid=1917005592&hash=item23cdad0ee2:g:IZ0AAOSw9RZeA19h The bracket may well be just to support the plug/skt connection so could be worked around economically with a cable tie or similar I imagine.
  8. 1 point
    πŸ˜† I kept feeling guilty about not properly doing as told in the manual, but after translation I decided to start calling myself mr. Haynes πŸ˜›
  9. 1 point
    This is a guide to testing your alternator I found in Practical Classics. 1) Connect a multimeter across the battery terminals, it should read at least 12volts with the engine not running, Start the engine and it should then read 14~15volts, Switch on the headlights full beam, Heated rear window & heater fan on full speed, the voltage should still read 14~15volts 2) Test the Rectifier/Regulator, Put your multimeter to the 20 volt AC range, and with the engine running put the probes on the battery terminals, If the rectifier is faulty there will be an AC voltage shown on the meter, you shouldn't see more than 0.1~0.5 volts any more than this and the rectifier/regulator is faulty. 3) Test the diodes, Ignition OFF, disconnect the battery NEG terminal & output lead/plug from alternator, set the multimeter to DC amps and connect it between the output terminal of the alternator and the wire/plug removed before, reconnect the battery NEG terminal if the meter reads more than 3mA the rectifier diodes are "leaking" causing a drain on the battery and over time with no use the battery will go flat! 4) If the CHARGE light is ON and dims as the engine is revved the alternator is suspect, If the light brightens as its revved the battery is suspect
  10. 1 point
    I think from memory there was two devices attached to the dizzy, one was a voltage regulator and the other is a damper to prevent interference with the radio! The black widget is the regulator I believe
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for the ideas, really useful, much appreciated. I've emailed Feld again to try and get his thoughts, also I was just talking to my pal Jay from Unit 21 who is doing the install and the pulleys and crank sensor etc are all spot on, its done less than 1k miles since it was built. I think your suggestion of refitting the dizzy and blanking the cap is probably the way I'll have to go, problem is it sticks out quite a bit and spoils the look a bit, i'll check out the seat unit. As for my plans with the car / engine, i have no plans to race really, its just one of those projects that's got a bit our of hand!!
  12. 1 point
    My tip for changing the clutch cable is to tie washing line to the old cable's pedal end. It makes threading the new through the bulkhead so much easier.
  13. 1 point
    same crimp as the thick one thats the live to both pumps
  14. 1 point
    just one point , before trying the key go around and double check all the earth wires are fitted and tight , bad or a missing earth can kill the ecu so it will get expensive worth considering adding a fatter or additional earths , such as chassis to alternator bracket or the gearbox mount
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    you can just drag or past photos here yeah that plug is confusing ...i think its just so you can pull the looms seperatly
  17. 1 point
    VW Battery Discharged Diagnosis for Static Current Draw.pdf
  18. 1 point
    The odd-looking fuse in location 6 may be a 'ghetto' repair involving a thin sheet of metal, by the looks of it (or maybe a 175A fuse?). That doesn't look like it'll do a particularly good job of protecting the wiring in the event of a short somewhere. For reasons unknown, that particular one in that location is a common failure, by cracking rather than melting. I'm tempted to suspect vibration may be involved. Halfords sell a 'variety pack' of different values of these style of strip fuses for a reasonable price, I seem to remember. For a really good indication of the true quiescent current, there's a dodge I described in the thread you linked in your first post. It involves a bit of dexterity, but basically inserts your current meter between battery post and clamp without ever breaking the circuit, so eliminating the chance of waking systems up that have fully gone to sleep state. This is the process: Open the bonnet Loosen but don't remove the battery negative clamp, make sure you can wiggle it free/off with minimal effort Flick the bonnet latch over so that the car thinks the bonnet is shut, even though it isn't, giving you access to measure current directly at battery negative. Lock the car, all doors. Making sure the key is outside the car. Wait 30+ minutes. With multimeter on 200mA DC Current range (or similar) and probes in the appropriate meter sockets, put the negative/black meter probe onto the battery's negative post, straight downward. Hold the positive/red meter probe against the battery clamp in such a way that you can keep it on there (and the other one still on the battery post) while you gently jiggle the negative clamp up off the post around your black meter probe so that you now have everything connected through the meter (and the power to the car was never interrupted). This operation is probably much easier with an assistant, but quite doable solo. Read the true quiescent current now. Slip the negative battery clamp back down/on, remove meter probes, tighten clamp. Open up car and operate the bonnet release to reset the catch. There's also a method of calculating the current through blade-type fuses by measuring mV drops across them in circuit, for similar reasons of non-interruption of circuits. First step is to find the true 'global' quiescent situation though.
  19. 1 point
    The 3.0 V6 in my Touareg is chain πŸ™‚
  20. 1 point
    Might pay to have a look at this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forums/topic/335902-testing-your-alternator/ just to rule out any problems with the alternator
  21. 1 point
    Thank you very much . I will get my meter out this afternoon and see what current is flowing in each circuit .
  22. 1 point

    Time Left: 11 days and 9 hours

    • FOR SALE
    • USED

    Hi All I am Looking At Selling My High Spec Polo G40 which has been Been Fitted into A Genuine GT Shell Please read Whole ad For full Details Spec Is As Follows Powertrain -1308cc Oversize PY Engine Rebuild Carried out by Andy Boakes Who Raced the Cup Cars -Stage 1 Flowed Cylinder head By Racepower Motorsport - Flat web Crank with Cup Car Baffle Plate - Steel Headgasket & ARP Bolts - GT Inlet Manifold - De Wedged Throttle Body - Boost Return Delete - R1 Supercharger ( Which had a rebuild Recently) - Jabba Sport Induction Kit with shield - Machine Tooth Belt - PSD Tooth pulleys - PSD Specific Camshaft - PSD Custom Remap - Uprated Intercooler and Pipework Silicon Hoses - Stainless Steel 4 Branch Manifold - Jetex Exhaust System - Paddle Clutch - Larger Intercooler - Mocal Thermostatic Oil Cooler - Mocal Catch Can Chassis - Stage 3 Fully Adjustable Subframe ( Excellent Mod transforms the Car) - Polly Bushed Arms - Adjustable Coilovers - EBC Fast Road Grooed Discs & Pads - 22mm brake master cylinder - G40 Front Brakes & Rear Beam with ARB - 14” BBS Ra’s Powdercoated White - Rear Strut Brace Interior - Red Leather Corrado Front Seat with Matching Door Cards - G40 Black Headlining - Sliding Sunroof ( works and doesn’t Leak) - Raid Steering Wheel - Original G40 Clocks 160mph Bit About the Car This is a Genuine GT Shell that has been converted when an Immaculate 90k Mileage G40 got driven into by a DHL Truck , The GT Shell Had done 129k Backed up by MOT History , Shell in in good condition underneath . The Battery Box Carrier has been Cut out and Plate Welded and sealed a very common issue on the MK2F Polos Engine Work was Rebuilt and Carried out by Andy Boakes The Vehicle has had a New Cambelt Rear Brakes Cleaned & Adjusted Full Brake Fluid Changed when the uprated 22mm Master Cylinder was fitted. 4x New Tyres Hoffman 4 wheel Alignment Carried out New Battery Fitted New Fuel Tank Fitted another Common Issue on these! Lambda Sensor Changed New Radiator Fitted Recently The Car pulls Very very Well! and Puts a Smile on your Face πŸ™‚ The Stage 3 Subframe makes Car a lot stiffer and Responsive and handle like a Go Cart! The Car Is 29 years Old So its not Immaculate but with a little work it Can Be . * I Am also Including in the Sale a Good Condition ATV Box with a LSD Fitted , Which has not been used since LSD has been fitted the Gearbox Place changed a Couple of bearings in the ATV and said the rest of the Internals are in good condition Have Receipt Of This Work Cost Β£1100 ! Also have the Orginal Diff Too Also Have a Whole Box Full of Spares , Alternator, Trims , Spare Toothed Pulley Headlights , Coil packs , New Supercharger Feed Pipe, trims , Grill , Washer bottle , MDF Parcel Shelf carpeted , Relays And Much more Also a Complete Original G40 Interior , SuperCharger Flange as i was going to add a 2nd Inlet Set Of Working G40 Injectors DAB Bee Sting Aerial Set of 5 Yokohama 45 profile 14” Spare Tyres Spare New machine Toothed Belt All Included in the Sale I have Receipts For Most of the Work Carried out and Original booklets I have Probably missed stuff but will update as I remember. Looking For Β£4500 as it is Everything Mentioned.


  23. 1 point
    It is important to remember that the only time that an exhaust valve is cooled, is when it is clamped to its seat in the first three parts of the cycle. The problem is that, if the actual contact area of the valve and seat is too narrow, very little cooling takes place BUT if the contact area is too wide, then there clamping load from the valve spring is shared out over that wide area, resulting in low contact pressure, in turn resulting in poor seating. I would suggest that you ask your local machine shop to carry out a 'three angle grind' on those exhaust valve seats, the final angle determining the the contact area. Other causes of this kind of problem include: Wrong spark plugs; Weak mixture (a richer mixture has a cooling effect); Wrong valve timing. Frequent oil and filter changes can (amongst other things) improve the action of the hydraulic tappets - but only if the recommended grade of oil is used. The argument about supermarket petrol will go on for ever, personally, I always use Shell V Power. - I know of people who have tried that and claimed that they couldn't tell any difference - well, they wouldn't would they - First of all, the V Power will be diluted by whatever else is in the tank, secondly V Power has a cleaning effect in the combustion chambers, but for this to happen, you may need to use it for a while. What I have found with V Power, is that I obtain better fuel consumption, but as always, this depends on how you drive. The engine is definitely smoother running though. Regards
  24. 1 point
    The ignition coilpacks don't last forever.
  25. 1 point
    yeah ok...so best get the interior wiring for the pump from any mk2f...not too bad to make up if you had to and yeah the g40 engine should just go in on its own pretty much like it says in the link
  26. 1 point
    Welcome to the site dude, ;looks like a good honest solid and straight car you've got there. Going by the colour it looks like an early/ mid 80s? Get a build thread going in Mk2 Polo section πŸ™‚
  27. 1 point
    HI, Ive been looking at my radio and i desperately want something touch screen so I dont have to faff about with my phone and a phone holder. but ive noticed that it looks almost impossible to change the 6N1 from single DIN to Double DIN as above the radio are the blowers and below is the fan control, there is a sort of cubby hole that isnt used for anything below that aswell, im assuming its for cars with air con, mine is just the 1.0 . So im just wondering has anyone out there converted the single DIN to a Double DIN sand what are the steps needed thanks
  28. 1 point
    Found some photos of the car way back in time when it appeared on the mk1 polo club forum pages started life as a 1.1lx ..... changed a little bit now
  29. 1 point
    Been there got the t-shirt. In our case it was a failed ignition pencil coil, but either way, if the engine ECU detects sufficient misfires on any given cylinder, it completely cuts fuelling to that one. On the three-pots this is quite a severe reduction in output and engine balance.
  30. 1 point
    I had oil change last year... Not doing that many miles as you know... Filter too and sparks... Thanks for all your advise Pete!
  31. 1 point
    No way of knowing when the damage happened, or started to happen really. Just make sure it gets regular oil/filter changes from now on. I personally do the missus's Fabia (12-valve 1.2) twice a year, roughly every 6k miles. It's on 173k, which seems good going. I think it was reasonably well looked after prior to our ownership, for its first 100k, and did reasonable-length journeys judging by it having covered that in the first 7 years. What's your usage pattern? Short journeys are bad for oil life. Temperature gauge in the middle sounds OK. Thermoswitch on the radiator (just above bottom hose connection) is a common source of coolant leakage, just nip it up a bit tighter and it stops.
  32. 1 point
    Supermarket fuel will not be the problem. Approximately half of all petrol sold in the UK comes out of pumps at supermarkets, so this problem would be far more common if that were the cause. It's not clear to me what you mean by 'servo had gone'? There's a common fault with failure of the vacuum hose to the brake servo, but that's not a fault with the servo itself. How often was the oil and filter getting changed on this car? Which oil was being used? Have you had any fault lights on? Does the radiator fan work? Does the temperature gauge ever go above 90Β°C? Does it use/lose any coolant? Make sure your garage checks the degree of wear to the exhaust valve guides. These are often mentioned as being the precursor to this failure, too much waggle-room and the exhaust valves don't seal properly, leading to overheating due to poor conduction path into the head metalwork. What wears the valve guides excessively is another (or possibly the main) question, of course.
  33. 1 point
    Thought I'd update this as it's been a while. I've still got the car, it's been my daily for over five years now! I've just kept on top of things with it and kept it well maintained really. I've ditched the wind deflectors for now, swapped over to my other wheels as they had good tyres and were just in the garage on my Mk1 Jetta. Here's a recent photo! Hoping to get along to the next Polo Social.
  34. 1 point
    It works!!!! I think there might be a minor vacuum leak between the flange and the carb, but I can't notice it when driving. The slightly erratic idle is normal for this combo I heard.
  35. 1 point
    There isn't πŸ˜‚ I'll get there eventually, it's going to be a long slow process!
  36. 1 point
    Okay, so the float wasn't even connected. The seller has just thrown all the parts for it in the carb without actually connecting the float.πŸ˜‘ I'll try starting it again tomorrow. The flange 030129765C doesn't seem to be made for the fitting of the 32 TLM. The pattern on the top of the flange doesn't match it, the screw holes do though. I'll have to see once it's running if major vacuum leaks occur.
  37. 1 point
    Welcome to the Forum. A lot depends on what you have actually purchased - If it is a cheap Chinese copy, maybe you won't be able to do much more than read fault codes and maybe clear (delete) them. All that I can suggest, is that you experiment with it and see exactly what it will do. Regards.
  38. 1 point
    So it turns out I'm crap at updating forum threads these days. Needless to say the car is still lurking. Hopefully you'll have caught my updates in Performance VW - and if not, why not? Ironically, having ended my last post saying tyres would come next, push came to shove. My car managed to collect a screw in its front passenger side Toyo just after its MOT last year and, recognising that I live in Wales, I decided to get myself a set of Uniroyal Rainsport 3s for it. Annoyingly this all happened around the time I ditched my full time editorship and went freelance (a year last weekend) which delayed things. But I made good use of my first week as my own boss, got my new rubber fitted and... err.. broke them in. That was fun. IMG_7720 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr Some of that breaking-in mileage involved my first trip to Caffeine and Machine, and a two-birds-with-one-stone job getting my car's alignment done at the same time. It's been cornerweighted and had a bit more camber dialled in at the front (there isn't much adjustment available) but I came away with some fresh ideas for how to go a step further and plans to do so during the summer once I'd got my money's worth out of my latest investment. IMG_8140 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr The car had other ideas. It doesn't drop oil usually so, when it did, I got worried. Turns out the head gasket had let go and, while it wasn't letting anything into the cylinders, it was pissing oil while I was driving. And I'd done a lot of miles last winter as you can see. This has never been a fair weather car. Polo_rear_dirt by alexgrantuk, on Flickr It took a while to get it into the workshop (I get the long-term build slot and a rather tasty R5 Turbo was taking that space), so Jenson and I made it shiny while it waited. IMG_1659 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr AutoGlym HD wax, if you're wondering: IMG_4378 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr In the meantime I got to play with some pretty unlikely stablemates for a 28-year-old Polo. Including all Β£335,000 of Rolls-Royce Wraith Black Badge pictured here doing the school run - yes, you can get three kids and two buggies into one. No it isn't easy. IMG_9437 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr The car went into the workshop in April and, luckily, the head gasket swap didn't uncover anything anything unexpected: IMG_9725 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr And that's about it really - it's the noisy idiot on the driveway next to the silent Outlander PHEV I've been running for a few months, and our own really rather brilliant family bus (C4 SpaceTourer). IMG_4184 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr BA787266-4220-407C-9A4A-26E835AAE57E by alexgrantuk, on Flickr Pictured here at a Volkswagen UK driving event - I got to show a couple of the guys from the press office around the car while it was there: B988493F-0557-4628-9A44-A685B16E6E08 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr Back at Caffeine and Machine... as you'll have seen in another thread: 93D507C3-4482-46D0-882D-FC1456B15BF1 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr And here shot against the glamour of Leigh Delamere Services. I think it's ageing rather nicely... and you know what they say, if you don't look back at it when you've parked it, you've got the wrong car. 9C80AF2D-0AD8-40ED-B1E8-8F3377752BA6 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr On it ticks. Nothing major left for it other than sticking around and putting a silly grin on my face.
  39. 0 points
    binned it. bashed into a road sign too far from home for a tow back (3 hours drive). 80 quid tow to get paid 40 pounds for scrap was a real kick in the teeth. lost traction coming down a hill with 4 mates in the car with me. lifted off the brakes at the last minute to dodge the ford kuga that was turning, ended up hitting a sign. still better than going off the embankment. complete write off, passenger door wedged shut, i had to yank it open from outside. turned out the shoddy welding was far more extensive and there was filler in more places than i imagined, the result of which is that she crumpled just in front of the b pillar on the passenger side and bent at the bottom of the passenger door frame. nobody was injured thankfully. can't say the same about stacey im absolutely gutted just thought id add, the 3rd pic shows a telephone pole, not the sign, it was a three legged sign, we glanced off the middle leg and hit the last one right on the headlight
  40. 0 points
    Just don't let that guilt extend to pouring gearbox oil into the clutch like some of the haynes manuals tell you to
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