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Showing content with the highest reputation since 17/05/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    I do still have car its parked in my garage gathering dust not restored yet due to family issues
  2. 2 points
    Im new here but owned a black 6n2 before thought i would join Club polo Picked her up on Saturday thought I would post a picture!
  3. 2 points
    paid alot of attention to engine bay to get it back to factory standard and very pleased with it now
  4. 1 point
    Ouch. Original nuts reused on end of ARB? Do you trust your torque wrench? Looks like dent and scrape, but not much material lost. Sump is not leaking at that point, but probably worth reinforcing with filler and painting over to stop rust from outside.
  5. 1 point
    Hi All, New to the site starting a thread for my progress. Mods so far: 16mm spacers on rears Heko wind deflectors Debadged side badges Blacked out all other decals Rear wiper delete Rear light clusters changed LED fog bulbs Enabled auto door locking on movement Disabled auto stop Disabled rear wiper sweep on reverse Disabled fog activation on turning Speed increase by adding a go faster stripe 😉 Working on installing a 10" android head unit, big thanks to nige8021 for the wiring diagram Remap, lowering and exhaust coming in the future, thanks for reading 😉
  6. 1 point
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiberglass-Wings-Mk1-Vw-Polo-Audi-50-fender/273822151095?hash=item3fc11271b7:g:wOQAAOSwWkhcwpzm&frcectupt=true
  7. 1 point
    Are the front suspension top mounts equally shagged? I imagine one could shift under torque input, but never felt that myself. Any weird tyre wear from worn ARBs? Does it go straight-ahead hands off the wheel on a flat road with just enough gas to be constant speed at 20 to 40mph? I assume the tracking was done right. Sounds like it. And just pulling away from rest do you need to correct the steering at all? I once had a worn out hub that appeared to pull left despite tracking adjustment. If with engine off you press hard on the brake pedal then turn the wheel left then right from centre do you get a clunk? Does it then not clunk with brakes off? Then I'd investigate for wheel play.
  8. 1 point
    Suggest that you use an accurate tyre pressure gauge as a first step to sorting the problem. After that, a steering geometry check should identify the problem. (I am assuming that your suspension is standard.) Regards
  9. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice mate. Much appreciated.
  10. 1 point
    First Welcome to the forum. Here's the wiring diagrams from the dealer manuals Polo 6C Radio.pdf
  11. 1 point
    Thanks for the help I took it out and checked and I had installed it the correct way round.
  12. 1 point
    I managed to get a rear arch for mk2 recently off German ebay recently, might be worth keeping an eye there
  13. 1 point
    Heritage do rear arches and lower repair panels https://www.vwheritage.com/861809837-outer-rear-wheel-arch-repair-left-vw-spare These guys list sills, but appear to be out of stock https://www.carbodypanels4u.co.uk/volkswagen/polo/volkswagen-polo-3-door-hatchback-1976-1981-mk1
  14. 1 point
    First welcome to the forum. Do you have aircon ? There is one sensor behind the bumper on the passenger side and another sensor in the air inlet trunking for the aircon (if fitted) with the aircon both of these sensors signal to the aircon panel and that sends the info to the speedo via the CANbus wiring, if you don't have aircon the one sensor behind the bumper signals direct to speedo
  15. 1 point
    A front brace or "GED bar" doesn't do that much in all honesty. They still allow the very floppy front end to flex and don't fix any of the understeer these cars suffer from. The best modification is a stage 2 subframe. They give a very noticeable improvement in handling especially initial turn in. Makes the front end feel a lot more grippy and positive.
  16. 1 point
    There is a website called 'NextDoor' on which people in your locality post all sorts of requests - painter/decorator, plasterer, joiner etc - You could try joining it and posting something like 'Person required to fit new clutch' and see if there is anyone who will, or maybe someone can recommend someone else - its worth a try if no one on the forum responds. Regards
  17. 1 point
    See how fast you dare do the moose test on a private road - don't wreck your car! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moose_test Centre of gravity is a bit as high standard. But once you start lowering the geometry needs more compensation.
  18. 1 point
    Not much time on this recently, but I came up with this from a few bits of scrap. It bolts in tightly to the rear beam mounting point, and accurately indicates where the centre of the spring plate should be. As an added bonus, when the bend is redone the other way, it works for the other side too. 🙂
  19. 1 point
    You wrote that 2 hours ago, hope you are not stranded somewhere. I remember this. guy's article http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
  20. 1 point
    That sounds about right to me, as you say it is only an M10 bolt and 50Nm is plenty to pinch the ball joint. The lock nut will prevent the bolt coming loose.
  21. 1 point
    Ah, but with the Weber DMTR I had to fit an o-ring to the needle valve holder to shut it up - and there was a tiny fuel pipe leak too.
  22. 1 point
    No, my fuel pump turns off once the carb reservoir(s) is full. The pump rate slows right down then stops. There could be dirt in the needle valve letting fuel past. That would play havoc with the fuel level which is critical. Definitely using a huco 133010 rated 0.15 bar? Not a 133000 rated twice that as designed for near fuel tank.. http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/HUCO.html
  23. 1 point
    Nice motor, top tip for covering up rusty bolts, get a black perm maker and colour them in be surprised how much of a difference it makes.
  24. 1 point
    900/(Pi *cyl radius in mm) is the knock resonance in kiloHertz according to the TI data sheet and the backshed article.
  25. 1 point
    Have a look at this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/167689-how-to-fix-non-workingstiff-door-locks/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-2638832 I posted a how to guide on replacing the lock paddles
  26. 1 point
    Took carbs off and apart. This is the pump chamber. scraped it out and this is the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner. before adding the fluid to heat up and buzz the dirt away.
  27. 1 point
    I'll be there as usual! 👍 Burgers & Pork bellies on the BBQ again! 😊
  28. 1 point
    just a new oring ...no sealant needed , would be wise to check the block isnt rusted /scaly where it seats , wire brush it if need be
  29. 1 point
    Excellent! Much appreciated dude, more essential items on the parts list but I'll have one of those for sure
  30. 1 point
    Nice big bumper
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
    First welcome to the forum. This will help once you find out what code your gearbox is https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/1984-9/3/
  34. 1 point
    My box in my GT 3f engine is bottom code is 085 301 103 c and code that's on top of the box says ahd14120l . Hope this helps ?
  35. 1 point
    Ok, that should be leak free as flat. (I used a Febi rubber mount.) But might let air in when it gets hot, hence paper gasket. Maccoll found waxed cardboard is great. So is the idle jet too big? Have you got the throttle flap a bit too far open so it is idling on the progression holes, not the idle circuit alone? The point of the flap is to throttle (squeeze neck to death) the airflow into the engine which naturally wants to spin as fast as it can.
  36. 1 point
    The huco controls pressure just fine on Weber. Used it on several. With and without a Golf mk2 swirl pot depending whether carb had a return pipe. The needle valve and float chamber removes bubbles. Normally I'd expect a filter before the pump to protect it. There's a tiny filter at the carb above flat brass screw at inlet pipe union. Idle speed you can't reduce suggests vacuum leak. Backfiring through carb is lean which might support. that suggestion.. Did you use a new rubber base mount? New vacuum tubes?
  37. 1 point
    Hooray for on the road. Everything expands as it gets hot. Rings, piston walls, cam lobes .. Needs about 20mins to recharge to prestart levels. It will loosen up, but only if driven at varying loads. Deceleration is good as the vacuum sucks oil up and acceleration is good because it forces the rings against piston walls. Don't thrash it. New plugs I assume?
  38. 1 point
    I took my car out after two years of building it. I was nervous has heck but went allright . Ran it for 5 minutes but the problem with the hot start was still there but won't let that ruin my day. thanks for the help you guys have been giving me Okay so I can repeat this fault as follows; 1) The car is fully charged with trickle charge to 13.5V 2) Start cold engine: shows 14V on gauge to prove alternator is working 3) While driving around it is 13.7V, when fan kicks in, it's 13.6V. 4) Get engine to operating temperature, which happens pretty quick , so im assuming it's a "tight'" engine. 5) After 5 minutes drive (I know it's not enough but shouldn't be that drained from full to not start a car twice) stop car and try to re-start. Struggling to turn crank, can't start. 6) Put trickle charger back, shows 12V on charger gauge. Charge it up to 13V on trickle charger. 7) Time to try to start HOT engine, and turns crank n starts. The modifications that have taken place that can affect the start; 1.4L to 1.6L displacement. Race/Road cam installed with new springs n lifters. New bearings, pistons, rings etc
  39. 1 point
    There was a recall for the pedal boxes so it's most likely this repair was carried out, but to check get a good torch and get your head into the footwell and you can see the pedalbox, then look around the end of the pedalbox by the clutch pedal pivot shaft, and if you see any cracks then your looking at a new pedalbox, they were around £65 a couple of years ago and a couple of man/hrs to replace. The cable change gearboxes like you have don't in general tend to suffer with the linkage going out of adjustment, so if the pedalbox looks good it's probably time for a new clutch
  40. 1 point
    Hi @Trickyricky Welcome to ClubPolo! I'll look into the 5MB attachments for you.
  41. 1 point
    Hi Ricky, the system should automatically resize your uploaded images, it's not a fast service but should work, if not try uploading to the likes of flikr and copy the img code from there and paste that into the reply box, that should also work
  42. 1 point
    Just because a battery comes with a higher Amp Hour capacity (To put this in very crude terms, this means a larger bucket full of electricity!) it doesn't necessarily follow that it can provide a high cranking current (again very crudely - a larger tap to allow the electricity out) Let's have a look at the meaning of some of these terms: Volts = electrical pressure Current (measured in Amperes or Amps for short) = electrical flow Ohms = resistance to flow Watts = unit of electrical power Amp Hours can not be taken literally, as you might imagine that a 38 Amp Hour (a/h) battery might provide one Amp for thirty eight hours or alternately, 38 Amps for one hour as its title suggests BUT we have to take into consideration something called the 'rate of discharge', which simply put, means that, as current is drawn from the battery, so the voltage becomes less. You can do a lot worse than use the old analogy of thinking of electricity as 'water': The higher the pressure (volts) the faster it will push it along; The larger diameter of the pipe (cable) the easier water (electricity) can flow through it; any restriction in the pipe will offer resistance - if the cable is too 'thin' this will offer electrical resistance (Ohms), causing less current (Amps) to flow (and overheat as it does so). Jokingly, it has been said that electricity is like invisible water flowing along a solid pipe! Joke it might be, but it does help people in grasping the principle. As your new engine appears to be a little tight - no bad thing, providing that (1) it isn't too tight and (2) the tightness is between the pistons and cylinder walls - the starter motor will draw more current to overcome this tightness, this is where Watts comes in - So, if we take the battery voltage as 12 and the starter draws an INITIAL 400 Amps (for the sake of argument) 12 x 400 = 4,800 Watts (not bad when you consider that a one bar electric fire is a 'mere' 1,000 Watts!) (This 4,800 Watts is equivalent to nearly six-and-a- half Horse Power! - 746 Watts = I HP) From the above, you can see why dvderlm recommends that you have a battery with the highest cold cranking output that you can get into your battery box. You can also see why it is vitally important that ALL connections are clean and tight and that cables are of adequate cross sectional area (pipe size) I hope that the above is not too simplistic. Regards
  43. 1 point
    With all due respect, it isn't possible to find TRUE TDC by poking things down a plug hole - what you can find though, is the top of the stroke, BUT you will not know that the crank is in the dead centre position. However, if you do use this method, once you have found the top of the stroke, if you then rock the crankshaft backwards and forwards a few degrees, you will be able to 'feel' the APPROXIMATE dead centre position, at which point, if your key/keyway is in good condition, the factory TDC mark on the pulley should line up. The only reason that flywheel marks are more accurate than those on the pulley, is that (1) the flywheel is larger in diameter, and therfore any SLIGHT errors are not so important. (2) the marks align with something solid, rather than bits of bent tin (which can become even more bent) With the screwdriver/dowel on top of the piston, be aware that as the piston rises, the screwdriver/dowel can become trapped - at which point it is time to stop turning the crank and investigate. Regards.
  44. 1 point
    if anyone is intrested this is the alternator that is almost a direct fit on polos its from a passat /golf diesel late 80s /early 90s get the alternator and swap all the pulley/washers over from the original , then you will find the upper bolt hole is 10mm vs 8mm on the old one , you can either purchase some sleeve bearings for a few pence to push in and convert to 8mm or drill your mount and use the 10mm bolt lower bracket will need a m8 bolt and washer on the early polos without the toothed wheel adjsuter belt ...well they seem to vary , seems i need a 690 x 10 mm , but my mates gt fits with the original so be prepared to mess with that (same pulleys but bigger alt doesnt allow so much movement to slip belt on) i also upgrded the wire to 4 guage
  45. 1 point
    The classic front lower strut brace for a Mk3 Polo, designed to fit between the ARB mount and chassis, to increase the rigidity and help maintain correct wheel geometry in corners, improving grip and feel. Easy to fit, comes supplied with instructions and Stainless fasteners, finished in gloss black. Best value handling modification for an early Polo! Price: £30.00 Delivery: £7.80 Shop here: Click for PPP Shop! In stock- ready to go!
  46. 1 point
    nice one dude! could come in use for the missus polo do you per chance have part numbers of the 8v fogs :)
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