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Showing content with the highest reputation since 26/09/21 in all areas

  1. Thanks for the replies all. I have a solution.... As you rightly say the system has a fuel pressure switch to prevent the engine running with little or no pressure, although it will turn over on the starter motor it won't start. So this is what I did to achieve a recirculating moly diesel purge :- 1.disconnected supply and return from fuel pump and attached them together. 2.filled a glass jar of liquid moly diesel purge 3.attached a return line hose to the jar 4.attached a supply hose with in line filter to the jar AND put in a hand pump primer bulb that I too
    2 points
  2. Hello Polo People, I would like to offer a repair service for some types of electric window motor module as fitted to 9N3 Polo, a few Transporters and some mk1/2 Skoda Fabia. At this stage it applies only to two specific, exact part numbers fitted to the driver's side front door, as follows: 6Y1959801 Fitted to RHD 9N3 Polo, a few Transporters, and very early mk2 Skoda Fabias. 6Y2959802 Fitted to later RHD Mk1 Fabia, from around October 2004. Left Hand Drive cars will use the other part number in each case. Note that both of th
    2 points
  3. So, on the off chance that anyone comes back to read this: Don't bother dismantling the motor there's a 99% chance it won't go back together, as Caretaker plus said they REALLY aren't designed to be dismantled, it seems as though the casing is formed around the motor. The problem with mine appeared to be corrosion. Ever since I'd bought the car, the washer nozzle rotated with the wiper arm, apparently this isn't normal and is probably a sign of bad things to come. In the end I bought a used rear wiper off of eBay for about Ā£25 (6N0955713B if memory serves)
    2 points
  4. Sorry for the slow answer, I read this a couple of times and didn't quite follow what you were trying to do. I tend to do what nige said, empty the filter housing and fill it with injector cleaner or purge, (even paraffin in the old days). I tend to use Forte, just because it's what I've always used and nothing's broken from it yet. Then go for a blast down the road. My normal way of doing it is: Take the breather off the top of the filter housing (fragile plastic thing with the R-clip) If it's got a drain down cap on the bottom of the housing, use this to r
    2 points
  5. Company is now owned by Mahle (of piston fame) and trades as Mahle Behr. https://m.autodoc.co.uk/mahle-original/15294485 See here https://www.mahle.com/en/about-mahle/locations/6106.jsp
    1 point
  6. I think Autodoc's Behr Hella CR 408 000S also claims to be 867121253AB Should be 34mm depth? There are even uprated rads like this, which is 50mm deep, but the fan cowling does not fit well. https://www.maxrpm.de/Radiator-for-Polo-G40-MK3-86C-for-G60-turbo-conversions-with-higher-cooling-capacity-Made-of-aluminum-for-year-1986-1989 Valeo would very likely have supplied most Spanish built Polos, 1985 onwards as closer factory. Manufacturers tend to dual source (or more), in case of supply chain problems (eg strikes, natural disasters, currency
    1 point
  7. id have no issue using nissens or valeo...they supply plenty of oem's have you found the proper dual core one...i found many listed that their incorrect single core was for that car when its not
    1 point
  8. I've decided (after a couple of close calls) that the wings are less likely to get damaged if they're on the car. After fitting and gapping, the fasteners were hit with the underbody wax. I then fitted the little brace bars between the wings and valance. Before realising that the chin spoiler type thing needs to be in position before the brace bar goes in. All in position now.
    1 point
  9. Glad you got them done mate šŸ‘
    1 point
  10. Thanks. Good to know my mistake. From people telling us (and explaining) our mistakes we learn much more šŸ‘
    1 point
  11. You are wrong but, but you're almost there! šŸ™‚ F>>80-K-220 000 means "for chassis numbers up to (and including)" that number. F 80-L-000 001>> means "from this chassis number onwards". So yours is in the second category.
    1 point
  12. Chassis number as written there relates to VIN like this: Cut off the first 6 characters of the VIN, then replace the third and fifth digit of what's left (9th and 11th digits of the full VIN) with "-" You should find the remaining string of characters has a structure like the 80-L-000001 or the other.
    1 point
  13. Thank you again @Pete1 I tried as you said and successfully removed the oil dipstick tube. It was a bit stucked so I had to twist by turning it just a bit left/right several times so it could freely move. Then I pulled hard but very slowly and get it off. I've asked the same on another forum but didn't get any answers. So I've already damaged the tube a bit using a plier because I thought it was screwed from inside or something like. That was before I decided to ask here. Hopefully I think I didn't broke the whole thing and I believe it is still in good condition.
    1 point
  14. I think Steve's words were autocorrected away from 'tight push-fit' to something less meaningful, by his phone, probably. So pull hard; but a bit of twisting in any direction will probably help, as might a bit of penetrating fluid.
    1 point
  15. The OP hasn't been on the forum since the day after they posted the question so I wouldn't expect a reply from them
    1 point
  16. Hi, I have a heavily modified 130bhp HK engine that was built by Feld Motorsport in Germany, I ran it last year on the original points and distributor but it didnt run well so Iā€™m in the process of converting to electronic ignition. It now has a DTA Fast I/O ECU and I opted to go for a wasted spark coil pack, which deletes the dizzy so it looks neater and it runs a lot better. The concern I have is with removal of the dizzy; I have had a custom blank made which seals against the cylinder head however it seems the dizzy was holding the cam in place and stoping it from floa
    1 point
  17. We visited a few more shows over the past couple of months. First up we headed to a Busfest for the day and were lucky enough to pick up second in the Watercooled Car class. First place went to this amazingly clean Mk1 Golf. Then we took the Polo and the Bus camping for the weekend to our most local VW-only show, Dubs at the Caste which is within the grounds of Caldicot Castle. There weren't any sub-categories for the show on Sunday, and the quality of aircooled & watercooled cars was amazing, so we were very surprised to be awarded third best in show. Second place went t
    1 point
  18. thats vw official vintage parts site you can trust them , as said there will be small businesses reselling the same part on ebay or other sites for example vw heritege in the uk re sells their parts
    1 point
  19. I second @steveo3002 on using the T bar. 6 sided socket is better than 12, more contact area just like a flare spanner. The T bar is helpful as you can push and pull at the same time, generating lots of torque, but no overall sideways force (push and pull cancels out). This reduces the chance of shearing the nipple vs a spanner being pushed from only one end which generates torque but also sideways force. I've also heard of people putting a piece of wire down the centre of the nipple (you have to get a wire size that just about slides in). This helps support the nipple intern
    1 point
  20. If you've got a gas-powered soldering iron, they normally have a mini blowtorch attachment. They can reasonably well for freeing bleed nipples, especially on calipers where you can heat the cast around the nipple. I have a mini blowtorch which has a better output than the soldering iron, and it's perfect. If it's drums on the back, there's no point playing with them, just fit new cylinders. As @steveo3002 says, either way, it's worth having a stash of new bleed nipples, treat them as single-use. Not everyone will agree with me, but I put a speck of copper grease on th
    1 point
  21. Intermittent faults can be a real pain to sort out, but as this seems to affect all of the indicator lamps, then the problem must be with something that is common to all of them. One quite common problem on your model, is the main 'plate' fuses (these are small flat metal plates). I'm not saying this IS the problem, but is well worth checking. What happens, is that these fuses tend to crack - difficult to see a problem without removing the fuse, but then when you do remove it, you find it is in two halves, which can cause intermittent connections. If the fuse
    1 point
  22. Looking at the schematic diagram of the fuel system, the HP engine pump will be looking for a pressurised fuel supply from the in tank pump of 4.5bar. The way I used the Molly purge on my Octavia & Touareg as suggested by @Yeti was when I replaced the fuel filter, filled the filter bowl with the purge and then fitted the new filter and started the engine as normal
    1 point
  23. does the rev counter do anything wierd when its happening? hall sender usually makes it go wild could try another ebay dizzy....part ending AB from a 6n will work and not too much money for a used genuine one
    1 point
  24. Look at your V5 logbook and the engine serial number will be a set of letters and numbers, the letters are the engine code
    1 point
  25. Hi guys, my first post on here. I've just bought a mk3 polo OpenAir edition. 1 owner from new, with 78k on the clock. FSH. I have never seen one of these before.....are they rare? Can't seem to find one anywhere else, eBay, autotrader etc. Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated šŸ™. Matt
    1 point
  26. Well deserved, congratulations šŸ‘Œ
    1 point
  27. Had an awesome weekend at Fitted, and came home with a top 20 award, I couldnt believe it!
    1 point
  28. Well its pretty much done for now! Still a few niggly things to sort but im happy for now! It feels so good to be driving it again, It'll be at the fitted show in manchester this weekend .
    1 point
  29. Golf headlights and centre lights are annoyingly about half to an inch bigger diameter and won't fit a Polo.
    0 points
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