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Showing most liked content since 23/03/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Didn't realise it was February when I last worked on this. Just laziness more than anything else. Anyway I've got a load of parts sitting so decided it is time to stop making excuses and get to work. Started off with a set of front struts that I cleaned and gave a quick lick of black paint. 20180413_155302 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr One last look at the inserts before they are hidden forever, just to prove it is H&Rs going in not some cheap rubbish. 20180413_160954 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr All built up with the spring and top mount. Looks pretty much standard, more aftermarket lowering kits should come with black springs. 20180413_173322 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr And the matching pair. Also cleaned up the hub faces with a wire wheel and chased the threads for the wheel bolts since these have been sitting a while. I did consider chucking in new bearings and hubs but there is nothing wrong with these and I'm not looking to do a full on restoration here. 20180413_174255 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Stuck the passenger side one on the car and stuck a nice shiny VW11 disc on too. 20180413_211927 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Then put on a VW11 carrier I found. 20180413_212453 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr That's all for now. Next step is to fit all the suspension, fit the stage 2 subframe and all the other goodies I have then work on getting the engine back in. The plan just now (until I change my mind next week) is to get this back on the road sometime in May and use it as a daily/rolling project. Thanks to a new job I recently cut my commute down from 70+ miles a day to just 2. So really, I don't need a super reliable, comfortable or sensible daily. Plus I'll have extra time to work on my cars again. Hopefully get one of them ready for the Social
  2. 2 points
    Some updates, my car got registration plates and it is runing nice. It is weekend driver. I've got Smor rims 7x13 inch rims, 175/50 tires, I was so happy when I mounted them. Now, car needs to be bit lowered to have a right stance. Hope that you will like it. I would be glad to hear your opinion. :) I mounted Nardi wooden wheel, Talbot rearview mirror, I need to mount chrome wipers...etc. Engine is still standard, it got Digiplex2 ignition except Bosch one, but I am planing on mounting those CBR F1 carbs soon, and I will post some photos and videos too. I am making AFR gauge too, I will post photos when I finish it too. Could anyone tell me how to see where is air corrector hole on those carbs?
  3. 2 points
    As far as I can tell, lowering these doesn't mess with the front camber angle much if at all. The castor angle is effected and the ARB blocks are used to correct that. As for these top mounts, I have a set of the MAX RPM ones which are pretty much the same idea. I personally wouldn't recommend them especially if you're going down the coilover and polybush route which will make everything a lot more solid than it used to be. The standard top mounts will at least keep a bit of cushioning between the suspension and the shell.
  4. 1 point
    Next up some exhaust mods, the exhaust on the car looks to be made from stainless of decent quality but has a bit of a home made look about it, especially the welds. Anyway the tailpipe was routed to dip down below the rear bumper and stuck out a fair bit. These photos are of it in my bench vice but hopefully you get the idea. 20180418_212523 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr 20180418_212546 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr So what I wanted to do was to tuck it in a bit and have it come out at more of an angle rather than straight back. Choppy choppy. 20180419_103629 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr This is just me showing off my welding 'skills', I cut off a hanger that was welded to the tailpipe. The hole that resulted was about an inch wide and I managed to fill it with just weld. I was quite pleased with myself. 20180419_105644 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Then some more cutting. 20180420_143121 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Tailpipe lined up how I wanted it. 20180420_143608 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr All welded up and after the death of a few flap discs it didn't look half bad. 20180420_145748 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr And the end result. Sits a little further in than I wanted but it is just the right angle that I was after. IMG-20180420-WA0014 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr
  5. 1 point
    Rear suspension time, I don't know what it is but I just love the look of these shocks. I think it might be the fact they are so subtle. 20180418_143137 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr All fitted...but nowhere near sticking the wheels back on yet. 20180418_213628 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Now a chance to kill two birds with one stone. A previous owner had welded this sump up for a reason I'm yet to figure out. If it was to fix an oil leak it didn't work as it leaked like a sieve. But also if I'm fitting a subframe then this sump is too deep and it will foul. So a mk2/3 sump conversion is the fix for both of these issues. 20180419_124633 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Old sump off, notice the deep skirt on the oil pump pickup. This is the mean reason the sump is deeper on these. 20180419_131309 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Also the difference in length between a 6n dipstick and a mk3 dipstick. 20180419_132834 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Bit of modification required to attach the top of the mk3 dipstick tube to the head, so I cut the bracket off the 6n tube and lined it up again the mk3 tube. 20180419_134142] Then a couple tacks with the welder and all is good. This isn't exactly going to be seen and its not going to see any forces so didn't see the point in making it tidy. 20180419_171601 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Then it was time to find a mk3 oil pickup...I did not steal this from a G40 lump I have laying around...honest. IMG-20180419-WA0023 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr That's the G40...ummm I mean mk3 pickup fitted. 20180419_173855 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr And the mk3 sump fitted, just waiting on a gasket arriving in the post and I'll get it fitted up properly. 20180419_174407 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr I do love how VW used the same basic short block for the AFH so modifications like this are just a straight forward bolt on.
  6. 1 point
    Hello and welcome to ClubPolo. Name: marc Age: 38 Location: Worthing, West Sussex Polo owner, if so which? Or looking to get?: I have a brand new Mk6 TSI Previous car history: ford Ka, pug 607 Hobbies/interests: mountain bikes, skiing/snowboarding, comics, films Occupation: IT engineer How did you hear about us?: Google
  7. 1 point
    I have never performed or seen somebody perform a swap, but from about 4 years of experience of reading through forums, up to the 1.6 it is 'easy'. Anything more high tech would require a donor car, mounts, suspension, brakes, electronics, and the drivetrain. People who have done this usually said it was pretty hard. (A nightmare in some 1.8T swaps)
  8. 1 point
    Delighted to have upgraded from a 6n2 Match to a 9n Sport 85hp, looking to keep this long term, only has 82k mileage, feels tight as a drum. Few things to do on it but that is all part of the fun. Just need some decent weather now. I did have a few parts I took off my previous car, 6n2 Polo. I have listed a few of them up for sale if anyone is interested, please take a look.
  9. 1 point
    Hi Guys, Is there any chance of another clubpolo trackday this year? been to two so far and they've been great. Blyton is ideal for new starters too! Would jump at the chance to do another if possible/numbers are decent. I can try and push the turnout for the 9n/9n3 owners as I know a fair few of them. Appreciate its not exactly an easy thing to sort though. Feel free to delete this after a couple of replies as i appreciate its probably not in the correct section.
  10. 1 point
    Clubpolo shop have them ?
  11. 1 point
    Not much has been happening of late. Just using it and enjoying it: 20180323_133421 by Tom Horn, on Flickr Its beginning to use water, so I'm going to change the headgasket and water pump. In the meantime. My brother has bought a mk2 Polo, so I used his boot carpet as a template as this has never had one and created this: 20180407_163059 by Tom Horn, on Flickr £8 from Ikea over some corex board! Tom
  12. 1 point
    if it runs okay id consider dropping the oil after a 100 miles or so to help clean it up inside..just use some cheapo stuff
  13. 1 point
    I can’t stress enough that you need to make sure the new gasket is lined up perfectly before replacing the head. Otherwise you’ll be redoing it all over again. A good trick is to cut the heads off the old bolts and saw a slit in the top big enough for a screw driver to fit. Then lightly screw them into the bock and use them as locating for both the gasket and the head. You can then take one out and replace it with the new bolt, repeat x10.
  14. 1 point
    That colour really suits the derby, top work sir
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
  17. 1 point
    Ive heard that the AAU 4 speed has desirable ratios
  18. 1 point
    Ok though I share. The black socket for the loom plug has two taps on the side pressing them in with force will release the board from the main casing. The second photo is the two solider tabs for the warning buzzer. Thanks for all help.
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Birtha, my brother, and I set off for the Alps on Friday (the good Friday traffic was awful in the tunnel) for the first part of the trip. After an overnight stop in Dijon we made it up into the mountains by Saturday afternoon! 700 miles of nearly faultless driving, only breakdown was 20km from the end. I'd put in some E10 and having been warned that the ethanol sometimes acts as a solvent and breaks up the gunk in the tank i was not too worried when the car stalled at idle a couple of times. We pulled off the "motorway" (they're really just dual carriageways over here) a quick blast through with cleaner and compressed air fixed it. I had a go at fixing the gear linkage before I left because the stick was very wandering. Never found the correct size shift finger, mine is the older four speed, so did the "stick it in a vice" and degrease trick. It's worked a charm. It took me a while to work out the gear selection putting it back together but it's great now. Speaking of shifting, the only other potential problem I've uncovered is a slight knocking when the clutch is in and the shifter is in 1st when idling at a standstill. Any ideas what that could be, it's intermittent I think and seems to happen after driving a long time. Otherwise the rattles and clunks of the road have me plenty paranoid, but I'm sort of resigned to the fact that it's an old car and it's going to resonate and rattle at certain speeds. Onwards through France over the next few weeks then down to the very bottom of Portugal! (My browser isn't letting me upload pics :( )
  21. 1 point
    I don't think they have a flow sensor as such, just a pressure sensor on the inlet manifold, there's a few pictures in this thread. I thought the only hoses on the engine cover were the air intake and the outlet to the throttle body, which are about 1.5 inches wide? You probably won't gain much from increasing the throughput of the filter, as I think the same unit was used up to the 1.4 16V, although you might get some very, very slight gains in hot conditions by moving the filter away from it's current location between the engine and the sound deadening under the bonnet to somewhere a bit cooler. I'm just wondering if you could use the diesel airbox, which was used on quite a few cars up the Ibiza Cupra, that would also allow you to use something like Jabbasport's come in a box setup.
  22. 1 point
    Hi guys. Greetings from Serbia. I used to drive Polo, and I will drive one in future. I used to read this forum as Guest for few years, and I really like it. Now I wanted to register myself as forum member. Hope to have good time here. About my car: I bought this old Zastava/Yugo few days ago. I never meant to buy it, but it took my heart. It is Fiat 128 rally based hatchback. I never had courage to put bike carbs on a Polo. So I decided to try it on Zastava, and to see if it works. I like that this is the best bike carbed forum on the net. I also have twin Dellorto 40 dhla carbs, but they are not that interesting to me as bike carbs..I might sell them. Zastava is 1.1l engine (1116ccm), 44 kW @ 6000 rpm /55hp, 83 Nm @ 4400 rpm . 0-100 around 17s. It has one barrel carb as standard, so I wanted to get some more performance out of the engine. I tried to mount Honda CBR 600 F1 carbs on it. I made manifold from Yugo Efi manifold, it worked good. Had few problems, I will write them later. Hope that you will like the car. Here some photos when we mounted the carbs, and some when I bought the car. I bought it for a very good price, and it is in very good condition. It is the car that is classic here, it used to be common car in Serbia/Yugoslavia, but now it is becoming rare. Here are some photos, I will add some more photos soon. Sorry on my rusty english, I hope that you will like the car. :)
  23. 1 point
    One or two head gasket tips - most have already been covered in the above replies though. It is very important that the threads in the cylinder block are clean and dry - I have seen cylinder blocks crack due to the hydraulic effect of leaving oil or coolant in the bolt holes. The only thing that prevents the bolts from coming loose, is that fact that when they are tightened, they stretch - just like elastic! When the bolts are slackened off, they return to their original length - again, like elastic. Just like elastic, if they are over stretched, they may not return to their original length, continued overtightening will cause a waisting effect on the bolt, known as 'necking' It is vitally important that at least the original tensile specification is used for any replacement bolts - hence the advice to use genuine VW bolts (Others are fine, IF you know that the specification is correct) If an engine manufacturer specifies lubrication of the threads, then they should be lightly lubricated. However, most manufacturers recommend dry threads. Obviously, if threads are lubricated, when they shouldn't be, and the correct torque (which relies on friction) is applied, the bolt is likely to be over stretched. The area where these gaskets leak from, is always just above the alternator mounting, the drilling there is the main oil feed to the camshaft, so is always under full oil pressure. Thnat is why you have been given advice (above) to use a SMALL amount of anaerobic sealer on that area of the gasket ONLY. It is normal to start tightening the bolts from the centre, working outwards (It's a bit like wallpapering - it squeezes out all of the bubbles) - Always work in stages, starting with JUST over finger tight, working up to the full torque and then the CORRECT angular movement (where applicable.) I always find that it helps to count the bolts as you tighten - that way, when you reach the last one, you should have counted the complete number of bolts - proving to yourself that you haven't missed one'/done one twice. It isn't possible to check the torque of any bolt/nut simply by re-applying the torque wrench - This is because the correct torque is reached DURING turning, so 'checking' from stationary would give false results. If you don't have an ENGINEERS straight edge or a surface plate, you can check if a block or head face is warped by applying a VERY thin layer of Mechanic's Blue (Engineer's Blue is an alternative name) (this is available from engineers merchants) to one side of a piece of PLATE glass (from a glass merchant) and rubbing it back and forth over the head or block surface - the blue will transfer onto high areas of the block/head face, leaving any low areas 'bare.' NB Only use plate glass for this 'normal' (float glass) may not be flat enough.
  24. 1 point
    She messed 72mm, just what I was hoping for. Thanks for the help
  25. 1 point
    So I finally got round to fitting my coilovers this weekend and now have 2 impractical polos
  26. 1 point
    Unless you manage to find one that's been run on the same engine type as yours you basically won't. Jets are cheap enough though, and easy to change so I'd just buy a suitable type of Weber and look up what jet sizes you need then just change them out yourself ?
  27. 1 point
    Time for an update on this! After the balls up with the Valeo alternator, I put the feelers out for having the Bosch one refurbished. A friend's step-dad said he take a look and only charge me for the parts so naturally took him up on the offer. After a damn good clean up (drove for a week or so with the crankcase breather venting to atmosphere so it was shooting oil vapour down the side of the block and onto the alternator!) and a set of replacement brushes, we think we may have cracked (though was supplied with no guarantee, if it does work I need to pay him another £15 ) So finally able to put the front end back together, though need to get a mite more tension onto the charger belts as they aren't quite as tight as I'd like but nudging closer to the end point, need to drill two small holes either side on the bumper to mount the splash guard to (hence why it looks slightly wonky, not properly mounted!)
  28. 1 point
    Hello and welcome to the forum, The best thing to do to get ideas and inspiration is look through the build threads as the choice of modifications is almost endless. https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/207-polos/
  29. 1 point
    Nice car mate. New here so just found this thread. Mine is the same colour :)
  30. 1 point
    Right in the feels..... miss this car. So last August I decided I wanted an upgrade, and liking my old Polo in every way except the power I decided to see if I could get a 9n3 GTI. Sadly, it was not to be, as the insurance on these motors is absolutely astronomical! But I did find the best alternative in the 9n3 TDI PD130; it just ticked all the boxes for me: it was fast and easily tuneable, was excellent on fuel being a diesel and was a Polo. Quick search on eBay on the Friday night and I found this; a Winter Red Polo 9n3 TDI PD130 with 110k and a Full VW Service History including belt & pump change. Gave the chap a ring and Saturday afternoon I was off down to view it! All went well, drove spot on, service book checked out, all the boxes were ticked, deposit paid. And by the Monday night, well, you guessed it, it was mine. Everyone's first new car photo is in a petrol station, right? So, once the car was back home I gave it a bloody good clean inside and out and chucked some air freshenering smell devices in to get out the smell of old hag. Paintwork wasn't the best I'll admit, it had been owned by 2 ladies before me so the local £5 wash and swirl was good enough for them. Funds were a bit tight as I'd shelled out £3,000 for the car and the tax & insurance so only a few small mods could be done. And the 'small' mod list was; - GTI Headlights - GTI Grilles - Pressed Metal Plates - VW Plate Surround - LED Rear Plate Lights - TXRGT USDM Light kit Gotta admit though, it does make a difference! So after that I had a really weird whining noise whenever I was around the 60mph mark. Couldn't figure it out, had it up on ramps a few times checking the underside, when all of a sudden it clicked in my head. I checked the tyres to see there was uneven tread on the rear tyres, so immediately went on the hunt for new wheels for the car. As my ultimate aim for this car is to be a fast road/track car I wanted some lightweight wheels, and as a friend was selling a set of OZ Superturismo's at a bargain price of £80, I bought them. Needed spigot rings, centre caps and a refurb, but I wanted the wheels so did whatever it took to get them. Ended up wrapping them in 205/45R16 Hankook Ventus Evo K120's and away we went. And now the University semester began, so the mods slowed down for a brief moment until my power was noticeably down. Ended up being a boost pipe and the EGR leaking, so had the EGR deleted and a Front Mount Intercooler with hard pipe kit put on. And then the clutch died. Got that replaced too, however this new one has Carbon Kevlar plates and is rated to about 360lbft so that should do me just fine! To be honest, I was really happy over how the car was sitting So that was how the car was going to stay from November until January. Long story short; I'm a student who works for Tesco; part time during term-time, and full time during the holidays. So when I go home, I can work full time, acquire currency, and spend it on my car. January came soon enough, and I had about £1000 to play with, so I got a Piper Cat Back 2.5" exhaust system twinned with a GTI rear valance, some JOM coilovers to get me low until I could afford BC's, a DervTech remap and some 6r style rear lights. And this is where I found another hiccup in the car's progress. At DervTech I was informed that the car had been previously remapped, however terribly. Some sort of have-a-go hero had ripped an old DervTech map off of a car and flashed it onto mine. Because of this the turbo was running at 2bar of boost which was slowly but surely killing the turbo. As a result the boost has been pegged back, but the torque has been upped because of the clutch so it pulls really well. I'm hoping to get back to DervTech in April once I've been back home earning money over easter to get another map once I've had an upgraded turbo, manifold and decat pipe put on. I'll keep you all posted!
  31. 1 point
    That's it, glad you're safe Dave! All the best :-)
  32. 1 point
    Your OK that's the main thing, metal can be replaced
  33. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind words. Car was exported to UK as Zastava 311. It is quite rare here to. It is 1984. model. It is solid to work on, but I really like that retro charm. I need to find more time to sort details and clean it. It set in garage for two years. I bought it from first owner who got old, and couldn't drive it any more. He really loved this car. So I will do my best to give a good home to it. I am having exams so I don't have enough time to take better photos. Hope to have some more time too, then I will make photo sesion. :) I am planing to sort out details till spring, lot of plans and time correct parts to make it cooler. This is the best dash photo that I have. I took it when I bought the car. It has original radio. :)
  34. 1 point
    Well done so far vladales it's nice to see something like this being done and I look forward to your progress as I quite like the car it's unique and not the usual choice
  35. 1 point
    It is 1.1l SOHC engine, the same as Fiat. 55hp in standard. If carb modification works good on this engine, I will do swap to 1.4l Sohc 75hp, and do all that I did on this 1.1l engine. I opened carbs today, they had 2x105 jets and 2x108. In standard they should have 4x105 jets. That got me bit upset, so I will redrill them to 110, to be sure to have four same jets. Idle jets are 35 standard, diffusers are 32mm. And then I will try it again. I will post carb photos tomorrow.
  36. 1 point
    Kiran_182, thank you for your response. I hope that it is interesting project. It is unusual car. It has some identical parts as Golf Mk1 and Mk2. Dizzy is the same, and some electrical parts. This model has the one without vacuum advance, newer models have the vacuum advance on dizzy. This model does not have servo brake, newer ones have. It has bit stronger cam than Polo. I will do my best post photos and etc, it is my hobby project so I don't have too much time for it. Idea is to install the carbs first and make it running as it should. Then, to get some performance. It has 9.2:1 compression ratio. With two barrel Weber dmtr 32/32 it goes to 65hp, by adding 10.1 comression ratio, it easy goes to 70-75hp. I would be happy to get some better throttle response with Keihin, and maybe around 65hp, then I am planing to put 10.1 :1 compression ratio head with bigger set of valves and bit bigger ports. Rolling road is around 300km from my town so I must make it run, so I can take it to rolling road. First idea was buying Polo mk1, but they are rare here, it is hard to find them in relatively good condition. Then to put the carbs on it. So I am still searching for a good Polo. That car is my childhood dream. I had problem with the carbs, I need to change O rings. It had good idle, but vacum pistons were vibrating, which was strange to me. I tried carbs without air filter, and I didn't sealed air corrector-as shown on the photo. It was so loud, and had bit slow throttle response.
  37. 0 points
    End of an Era. Long story short, I crashed. Mud on the road, back end stepped and I couldn't control it. Shit happens, luckily I was harnessed in and therefore didn't move throughout it all. Car's pretty much worth of scrap now, sills all bent. Luckily I've found an Ibiza Cupra PD160 shell to transplant it all over to. So I guess I'll have to just hang about the forums for the track days from now on
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