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Showing content with the highest reputation since 19/01/19 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    It's time to see if all your engine mods have worked, see how much BHP/Torque you've gained or lost !! Due to popular demand, we've moved from our traditional end of January/start of February date to Saturday 6th April (so no excuses not to come because its cold or dark 😛 ) If you've not been before? It's a great way to catch-up with members new & old. Aim to get there by 08:30 onwards with the runs starting around 9/9.30 Your car will be secured to the rolling road and one of the Aldon staff will run it up to find the max power, you'll then get a print-out of the Max BHP & Torque, all for £ 20 for Club members & £ 25 for Non members. There is normally hot food available, bacon butties etc and when all runs are finished we retire to a local pub. If you want to see what you've got under your right foot, put your names down below ( copy & paste ) Priority will be given to Club members with Polo's ! For a bit more information on Aldon Automotive, please click the link (they are very good at setting up carbs and if you speak nicely to the guys they'll help you tweak them (depending on how much tweaking it may incur an extra charge) https://www.aldonauto.co.uk/ 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.
  2. 1 point
    get it on the measuring block setting...just use the top bar and view one block at a time , even though it has the facilty to open block 1,2,3,4 at the same time i dont think the polo ecu is man enough to do it and the responce is too slow ...so view one at a time for decent results
  3. 1 point
    The earth side is commoned up with the Inlet air temp sensor and throttle position sensor and goes back to the ECU pin 8
  4. 1 point
  5. 1 point
    Right.... So I managed to get VCDS to install and run, got it talking to the USB driver and it seemed to talk happily to an address on the car's ECU. Does anyone have any experience with VCDS lite and Mk2fs? Could do with setting up a custom settings file - the included settings for reading a Polo 6N (closest i could find) didn't work too great. However... We have a temperature sensor fault! Sounds like the theory of the temp sensor resistance not quite making it to the ECU pins unaltered. The resistance across the sender pins is in the right range for the temperature so its likely a short on the way to the ECU. So the running theory is the engine thinks its cold all the time while warming up, potentially all the time period. This would definitely explain the fouled plugs, the fartiness when cold and the fact that new plugs cures the problem for a few drives. I think we're getting somewhere!
  6. 1 point
    yeah ? are you familar with older manual choke cars and when its too rich? might be onto something what if when its chugging you give it a sharp rev , does it improve /clear ? does the tailpipe smell badly of fuel...its gonna smell but shouldnt be like neat petrol keep an eye on plug colour
  7. 1 point
    id be looking at the plugs regularly now....if theyre in anyway black /sooty then thats an issue
  8. 1 point
    If you can't get live data from a code reader, you could do the resistance check at the ECU plug between pins 8 & 10
  9. 1 point
    Here's a resistance v temp chart to give you an idea if it's faulty
  10. 1 point
    once you get to the angle stage i would suggest a dab of paint at 12 o clock on the bolt heads , ensures you dont forget one and they should all be the same when done...i dont bother with the tool myself , just as easy to eyeball it
  11. 1 point
    if a temp cable fixes it ...i would unwrap the loom and take a better look , as loads of browns are all crimped into one up near the turret then goes to the battery , so if there was an issue with one then all could be effected , damaged wires could still be enough for a sensor or small load but not enough for the coil wouldnt be the end of the world to repair it all properly
  12. 1 point
    to test the hall sender ...remove the dizzy but leave the connector on , ign on and turn the rotor arm the pumps should prime
  13. 1 point
    We have a full setup, brake res fits with sensor cap dizzy clears it too
  14. 1 point
    No as I cannot take credit for any of the major work on the car, even though I now own it, I didn't build it so I don;t see it as my build if you know what I mean? The brakes are amazing! Literally the best Polo brakes I've ever felt. They actually feel better than my Mk5 Golf.
  15. 1 point
  16. 1 point
    I know right? I think I'll chance it though - I feel like gasket changing and cleaning things up is within my remit but wouldn't want to mess up valve seating seeing as it would be the first time I would have done a valve job. I think if I had a mate who had done one before handy I'd feel a lot more comfortable with that. One must be mindful of one's limits eh! Plus while I technically do have paste and a spring compressor I don't have one of those little suction tools to spin the valve from the face end
  17. 1 point
    right.. might be worth doing an inlet gasket then for belts n braces ...they often leak worse when cold then seal up as it gets hot , but doesnt explain why the plugs fixed it if its still there after the work , then swap the plug and lead to another cly see if the fault moves
  18. 1 point
    if brown = earth? car trying to earth the main starter circuit through that because the main ones faulty
  19. 1 point
    After having my driving licence for about 14 years, I thought it was maybe time to get around to buying a car. Registered in mid '94 it must be one of the last Mk2s. It lived all its life in North-East England til I brought it up to the granite city. 50k miles. The paint is a respray by the previous owner, it's quite nice if you don't look too closely. Runs and drives alright, so I have no plans to do any serious work on the car for the time being, just trying to keep it in shape and replace things as they wear out. Shout out to anyone else running a mk2 in Aberdeen/NE, I know you're out there...
  20. 1 point
    Definitely internal - one of my gearboxes has the same issue in that one of the centralising springs has gone soft. It's been that way for 10 years now - I'll be sorting it when I get my LSD serviced at some point in the future.
  21. 1 point
    theres no spring on the gear lever so must be an internal fault imo
  22. 1 point
    Bit of a dick comment about the dudes parents and it shows a lack of understanding of the issues affecting young people. Save your judgemental comments for else where.
  23. 1 point
    All MK3's came with a cat. Best thing to do is fit a decat/4 branch and see what happens at the MOT!
  24. 1 point
    Few people expressed interest when i posted about how to repair the usual mk3 fault of the snapped rear hanger, there are a few solutions but here is mine. it takes about 2 hrs all in and a tea break Parts needed VW repair panel - 867 803 785 and its only £8.81 + vat (£10.35) 2x 8mm x75 length bolts or similar £2max ( you can go 10mm but i means drilling out more material) middle rear bump stop rubber optional (i missed it out as it does feck all but you can fit it if you like). 2 new back box exhaust rubbers £2max 4x 8mm penny washers £1max Tools Needed a hack saw electric drill + drill bits small, medium then a 8mm (or 10 to match the bolts you bought) angle grinder (quickest way to get the old hooks off) heat gun or hairdryer to melt the underseal. bit of wood to fit in the middle of the hanger to drill it so it doesnt bend a large file and a wee circle file (not essential but saves cutting your fingers or mr MOT mans). old broken hanger on my loon did ok for 18 years - good old VW - but i have heard of them braking long before this and then the cable tie army take over usually. new bits: vw panel, rear exhaust, 2 "O" rings and mid box one and a few long bolts (only need 2 of them) so i got about changing the vw panel as i dont do welding, and prefer uber minimum drilling holes in things. panel before on left and as modified on right. then i grinded off the remaining leg on the car and heat gunned all the underseal on the sides of the original panel, but not on the floor so it remains sealed or you will just open it up to water attack, and then drilled holes through it so it looks like this: (file the edges till they are smooth) then its a case of drill the VW panel to match and file the holes then its a nice push up and bolt through operation (may require some hammer time action! ). I chose to double nut it so its locked and cant go anywhere or vibrate loose : then i put the "O" rubbers in a old tea pot with water and boiled them for about 5 min so they were lovely and soft. then they slide on nicely. and jobs a good un! then just go give it a blast to make sure its not going anywhere and relax for another 18 years! only thing i might do extra is give it a coat of paint and underseal round the panel for a proper job.
  25. 1 point
    Here is one i built in my old Mk3. Nothing special. No ICE built in. Was good and solid tho (so my dog could sit on it) and then it would lift up for a boot space and spare wheel access.
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