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Showing content with the highest reputation since 07/04/21 in all areas

  1. Excellent work! Its looking great, I cannot wait to see it in person at some point
    2 points
  2. Would anyone be interested in a build thread of my car? I’ve done a ton of (‘innovative’, atleast I havnt seen much of it before) development work with bump steer and some things with the handling and also the engine. I work on it most days and have a workshop to make weird diy parts but the car is remarkably different to drive than in stock form. I’m just interested to share and have a good discussion and learn more.
    2 points
  3. Alignment requirement depends on which type of bush you use to replace what's on there, and what you undo whilst changing them. If you fit the same type of bush as on there now and don't undo the bolts holding the console to the car, then the alignment should be OK. Pitfalls include the front bolt binding up in the aluminium thread of the console as it comes out, which can be expensive and annoying (new console time, generally). Most likely to happen if someone has previously re-used these bolts instead of replacing, in my opinion. Do you know if they've been done bef
    2 points
  4. Gearbox is back in and working, I'll be honest I'm not sure what the problem was, I've fitted a new release bearing whgile it was out and its all ok now. I've had the ignition timing adjusted and carbs tuned and its running great, just need to get the wiring finished and few other small jobs done. IMG_5053bc.mov
    1 point
  5. Great cheers! As you say that I remember when taking the Mrs out on driving lesson in mine years ago encountering a bit of rubble on the road, it was normally a quiet road but busy that day and I told her to drive on but it was bigger than I thought and it hit the linkage and the car wouldn't go into reverse! Garage did something similar to sort that for me. He's not looking at it until tomorrow now so that's a huge help dude 🍻
    1 point
  6. blue wire is for alternator :)
    1 point
  7. might well work...all it needs to do is reach the bottom when empty /top when full....id imagine top and bottom of the tank is the same place regardless
    1 point
  8. Been a little while since coming back to this thread - looks like the car was not quite as solid as 1st appeared in the photos, but it looks like its going to be first class when finished - there some excellent/skilled body repairs going on in these photos, looking forward to seeing this car as it continues to progress. My Derby had a yellowy rubbery substance sprayed on the inside of the panels (inside doors etc) - I'm presuming this was some sort of rudimentary protection from the factory? (mine is a later 79' car) - My car also had been rust-protected (a version of the old Zieba
    1 point
  9. possibly starter motor ? thats always live id suggest you take a closer look and repair it well , if it moves and touches earth then the car may catch fire
    1 point
  10. Thanks for the helpful comments, much appreciated. I've fitted a misab soft mount kit in place of the O-rings which as you can see were cracked worse than I'd noticed before (maybe worsened by using them in anger after many years on the shelf). I'm hoping that will sort the air leak which will cause the idle speed to slow then I can reduce the fuel feed accordingly using the mixture screws. I haven't tested yet as I've zero'd everything back up ready to try balancing with different idle jets which I had hoped would arrive Saturday morning. I should have checked the o-rings more clo
    1 point
  11. Just found that Eurocarb sell 00Fx jets (for F2, F6, F8 and F9) so you can drill your own fuel hole and in theory achieve sizes that are not multiples of 5 with less variation than soldering closed. https://vi.raptor.ebaydesc.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemDescV4&item=291978557762
    1 point
  12. I like your Volkswagen special tool 9997 and 9998. Nice work with the carbs. The RamAir socks are good kit. 40 is standard smallest idle for DCOE. 40F6 might overdo the richness. Lean to Rich F3 F1 F7 F5 F2/F4 F13 F8/F11/F14 F9 F12 F6 45F2 are available. Or, perhaps you could solder up four x 40F9 and drill using a 0.35mm bit? Vizard managed twin Dellortos on an 875cc imp with 40 idles and infuriatingly does not say which DHLA idle holder. With 30 chokes though as that's with large exhaust valves and big cam so torque
    1 point
  13. So it’s fair to say the SORG inlet manifold isn’t designed to be ergonomic for fitting: OEM top: 2x inner M8 stud & 2x outer M8 hex bolt. SORG top: no space for a socket or spanner on a hex bolt or nut so I used 4x M8 allen head bolts (narrower round head but still needed some Dremel on the inlet to turn free) which also helped with access. OEM lower: 4x M8 hex bolt SORG: The shape of the inlet means no bolt can be lined up to go in and no socket would ever reach. The holes in the SORG are M6 not M8 therefore studs normally used to convert M8 to M6 when an
    1 point
  14. I'm getting 191998135 as the part number for the bolts/fitting kit, there's a few on ebay, or vwheritage could be worth a try. The grills are normally ok with a few tabs missing, or you can ninja a couple of cable ties in if you're not too bothered about perfection.
    1 point
  15. Hi, guys girls. Name: Michael Barlow-Kingston Age: 29 Location: Lutterworth Polo owner, Red 1991 Polo CL Coupe Previous car history: corsa, hyundai coupe, swift, astra, a3, rx8, 406, celica, clio, lexus gs 300, megane coupe. Hobbies/interests: mountain biking, kayaking, stock car racing. Occupation: hgv driver How did you hear about us?: google
    1 point
  16. on the little bottles i just crack it open until you hear the pssst when you pull the trigger , with a gauge 11ltr a min sounds right you could try mig-welding.co.uk myself and optima are on there too ...get some pro advice
    1 point
  17. Thanks for that mate! I looked at that very listing and ended up finding one which was like for like. All sorted now, just have to muddle through fitting the bloody thing ahaha
    1 point
  18. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Polo-mk2-front-grille-inset-lamps/363353747585
    1 point
  19. First Welcome to the forum. That RED wire with a 110a fuse ? feeds the "X" contact relief relay, Dipped beam relay, fuses # 20,21,22,47 & 48 in fusebox inside car, Main light switch & Headlight Hi/Lo stalk switch
    1 point
  20. That part number is OK to use, and if you did, and just undid the bolts you mention, then alignment should be as before the change (if that's the part that's currently fitted). No harm in getting it checked though. Only earlier versions starting 6Q0, without the X-shaped rubber ribs should definitely be avoided for lack of duraility. Those just had single vertical rubber ribs above/below the hex, and don't last well at all. If the console-to-chassis bolts are undone or a different style of bush is fitted then alignment is likely to need adjustment. If you look carefully at photos o
    1 point
  21. There are numerous examples on this and other forums how to change them on Polo 9N, Fabia etc. I have changed mine 3 times. The stock bushes (or cheap ones) will tear and wear out within 2-3 years. I have used Meyle HD 100 610 0027/HD and had no problems for the last 7 years. To remove the old bush and install the new one you will need (believe me a godsend) : VW VAG Bush Remover Tool Set Silent Block Extractor Volkswagen Polo (bought ebay and do work) Also a ratchet strap to force control arm back in, once bush in. There are plenty of videos on how to use this to
    1 point
  22. Thanks for the advice. Not too bothered about presentability so long as the weld joint has penetrated well. When I have grinded I can go over it again if there are any holes, dry looking joint sections. I'll pull the car by the tow loop with a winch as a test when I'm done. Did once push it from behind about a mile back home with a bar hooked in that loop. But anyway I relented and bought an invertor MIG that can do Gas, Gasless (fluxcored) with a Euro pistol, or MMA with sticks - or Lift TIG with a different gun. Still waiting for gas and
    1 point
  23. @steveo3002 answered this in your other post "G 060 726 a2 from the dealers"
    1 point
  24. I finally got this running a few weeks ago! But I ran into a problem with it not going into gear, I've asked the question in the technical help section, if anyone can help please let me know, cheers!
    1 point
  25. The bushes do wear out, especcially if they're pattern ones, due to the voids in the rubber that are there to make it a softer ride. If you want a longer-lasting repair, or are planning other mods, it's worth replacing them with the bushes from an Ibiza Cupra. They're a direct replacement, and not expensive https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/ibiza-cupra-uprated-console-bushes-for-vw-polo-skoda-fabia-and-seat-ibiza.html If you've done any suspension work, it's always worth getting an alignment check doing, especcially if you can find somewhere that does a f
    1 point
  26. Hi rubber one is for mk2 I'm after mk2f one but thanks. Second one looks like it might fit. Still not made up my mind yet. Thanks.
    1 point
  27. So I painted the NOS 1.3 litre HH code 4-2-1 exhaust with some silver VHT paint and set about fitting the lot. Exhaust went on no problems. The old intake manifold was coolant heated so I used a spare pipe I have to bypass it in the coolant circuit, 90 deg step up diameter elbow from the smaller flange on the coolant rail to the larger one on the head. Whilst I had the coolant drained I took the opportunity to fit a new radiator. Then I ran into my first issue, I had heard some RHD cars in the past have had the SORG twin DCOE 40 setup foul on the brake master cylinder b
    1 point
  28. Well now I have him back home and compiling a list of jobs to do in advance of paintwork. The car has had new front wings at some point so these were in excellent condition, most missing parts have been sourced, but the next job is a new fuel tank, with no internal rust!!
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. Oh and the OF in the same area, which was concealed by filler! It is evident the old lady had a bottom half respray and any holes were filled over first hence the amount of localised repairs needed. I guess this did save the car to be fair:
    1 point
  31. NS cill under threshold plate
    1 point
  32. Thanks foreststu, looks to have worked! Yes I am really pleased with the work Sam has done. Even if they were more extensive that first thought! Here are the rest starting with the rear valance:
    1 point
  33. thats looking amazing! It's so good to get them back after paint. I wish I'd managed to get the golf back together that quickly!
    1 point
  34. Hello all! First off let me introduce myself, I’m not new to the polo scene having 3 2f coupes before this one and a mk2 bready. After a bit of a hiatus due to getting married and having kids, I’m back! Here is my mk2f Schwartz black polo genesis. 122k 1.3 5 speed The plans so far would be Refurbish the alloys New doors and wings New lockset (old one is nackered after attempted break in Rust removal around the windscreen New wiper motor Complete overhaul of brakes and suspension. Sort out the dodgy electrics w
    1 point
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