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Showing content with the highest reputation since 17/04/20 in all areas

  1. Model - Polo coupe s Engine - MH 1272 cc Colour - Tornado red Suspension - Standard Brakes - Standard Wheels - Hockenheim alloys Exterior - Standard After looking for another polo for quite a while I managed to find this little gem. The last owner of this had a white coupe up for sale as a project that I was going to look and, however he had a red coupe s in his drive along with a blue gt. As soon as my eyes landed on this I knew straight away I had to get it. Picked it up fairly locally and off I
    3 points
  2. no dont paint it ...it relies on the small serrations on the edge to work properly
    3 points
  3. ^ you can use a long screwdriver as a prybar to move the lever on the brake shoe enough to hook the cable in , no shoe removal needed , did mine last week
    3 points
  4. Loving the Ziebart sticker, my grandad had a Cortina with the same one. It worked well, there wasn't a spot of rust on the sticker. The rest of the car..... different story.
    3 points
  5. We are looking for entries for the 2021 Club Polo calendar. The rules are simple, just post up a picture, the picture must be one that you have taken (or you have the permission of the photographer to use it) and you must be able to send me a high res or raw version. I'll be in contact via PM should we want a full size picture but it is not a guarantee you'll be included in the calendar. We as always want well thought out scenic landscape photos. Portrait photos taken in Morrison's car park with a Snapchat filter will not be considered! The
    3 points
  6. Would anyone be interested in a build thread of my car? I’ve done a ton of (‘innovative’, atleast I havnt seen much of it before) development work with bump steer and some things with the handling and also the engine. I work on it most days and have a workshop to make weird diy parts but the car is remarkably different to drive than in stock form. I’m just interested to share and have a good discussion and learn more.
    2 points
  7. Alignment requirement depends on which type of bush you use to replace what's on there, and what you undo whilst changing them. If you fit the same type of bush as on there now and don't undo the bolts holding the console to the car, then the alignment should be OK. Pitfalls include the front bolt binding up in the aluminium thread of the console as it comes out, which can be expensive and annoying (new console time, generally). Most likely to happen if someone has previously re-used these bolts instead of replacing, in my opinion. Do you know if they've been done bef
    2 points
  8. This is from the 085 instructions Removing ‒ Disconnect drive shaft from flanged shaft. ‒ Tie-up drive shaft as high as possible. Do not damage paint on drive shaft. ‒ Remove flanged shaft securing bolts, to do this screw two bolts into the flange and counter-hold flanged shaft using a lever. ‒ Place drip tray underneath. ‒ Remove flanged shaft. ‒ → Pull seal out. Do no
    2 points
  9. Wanted to add this pic of the door cards that have been retrimmed.... the old stuff was peeling away so have been re-done in simple black. Dead chuffed with result.
    2 points
  10. No I went with your method, so bolting on at the front as the last step. Using a racthet strap to tension the arb worked really well! And then with a long bar to lever the mounts into place at the front. Can't wait to hit the road again!
    2 points
  11. Nice photo of cleaned adjuster wedge - showing all important micro serrations.
    2 points
  12. Thank you for your replies. It’s in the garage now and through the insurance. Had a few private quotes that were around the £3k mark. My insurance is with admiral - I’m a key worker and they’ve said it’s important to keep me on the road so I can get to work. Therefore, they’ve paid my £500 excess and given me a free courtesy car for the duration of the repairs. I couldn’t be more complimentary of them!!
    2 points
  13. More progress over the weekend. Firstly cleaning up the carpets with the same product I used on the seats. In addition to the two main fitted carpet pieces there is a section for the base of the A-pillar on both sides which I stuck on with spray adhesive. Pleased with how the carpet came out so got the seats and under-dash trays in. Next job was the parcel shelf which was missing the pivot pins on both sides meaning it just sat on the rubber hooks that hold the seat base to the top mounts.
    2 points
  14. Greetings from Seattle, USA! I owned this exact car (K786 VVV) in 1994 and joined this forum just to post here. I've attached a photo of it from when I owned it in Surrey back in the day. This was my first fast car and I absolutely loved it! It was so light and nimble. I eventually sold it for a Blackberry Metallic Corrado VR6 a year or so later. It's fun to see it again after all these years, still clinging to life. When I bought this car, the dealer said there were five cars in this spec that were prizes at a Genesis tour, and all the ones that came to the UK had similar license plates - but
    2 points
  15. So I managed to get the chrome trim into the front and rear screen seals with plenty of soapy water. I'd also fitted the dealer sticker that @Lovejoy kindly remade for me based on the screwed-up fragment I found in the rear inner wing 2 years ago. Also a Ziebart Rustproofing shield sticker just as a joke considering how rusty this thing was (well it makes me laugh). Fitted the NOS rear badge, wing mirrors, wipers, front plate etc. Then it was time for the drive home. Made it and test fitted the correc
    2 points
  16. Got the glass and brightwork fitted except for the tailgate chrome strip and the front/rear screen chrome-bead. Starting to look more complete with the grill placed in but not fitted yet as I forgot to take down the clips.
    2 points
  17. This is a guide to testing your alternator I found in Practical Classics. 1) Connect a multimeter across the battery terminals, it should read at least 12volts with the engine not running, Start the engine and it should then read 14~15volts, Switch on the headlights full beam, Heated rear window & heater fan on full speed, the voltage should still read 14~15volts 2) Test the Rectifier/Regulator, Put your multimeter to the 20 volt AC range, and with the engine running put the probes on the battery terminals, If the rectifier is faulty there will be an AC voltage shown on the meter, you sh
    2 points
  18. This is the tool you'll need to put the "joggle" into the repair panel https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carbon-Steel-Joggler-Panel-Flanging-Plier-5mm-Hole-Punch-Tool-Sheet-Metal-Crimp/363091244836?epid=21034145899&hash=item5489ecb724:g:i6IAAOSwWSJeXOOE
    2 points
  19. epoxy primer is worth the investment on a car you want to keep ....10x more durable than zinc182
    2 points
  20. Have look at this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/357601-engine-idles-down-and-cuts-out/?tab=comments#comment-2728598I I've attached the printout from Autodata on what values you should have at the various pins
    2 points
  21. Thanks Mark, but I only know bits and pieces about 9N/9N3 era stuff, and the odd snippet about Pierburg carbs from yesteryear. :)
    2 points
  22. Pete,you're just a fountain of knowledge when it comes to polo's,don't know what we'd all do without you
    2 points
  23. Yeah just a basic key, it will have a chip inside it for the immobiliser but as I said it doesn't require any external battery to make it work, it is energised by the "reader" coil around the ignition switch.
    2 points
  24. Welcome to the site, don't worry most of us are getting old now! The 6n2 GTI's are a good fun car. The only weak spot is the gearbox, but the issues with them are well known enough that they're not that expensive to get sorted either before or after the event.
    2 points
  25. 2 points
  26. 69 quid https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FUEL-TANK-RESERVOIR-PETROL-INJECTION-DIGIJET-TWC-42-L-FOR-VW-VOLKSWAGEN-POLO-86C/383606583276?fits=Model%3APolo&hash=item5950bbefec:g:EfYAAOSwphFe9TZW
    2 points
  27. Ok since my last post things have mostly been getting rid of the crumbly and welding the good.... ... floors, valance, rear wings... ... inner wings... ...and more... ...unsurprisingly front panel... ...NOS front panel and front wings. So after all that I needed a bling pick-me-up so got the brakes refurbed... ...and of course, especially during lockdown, I've been buying more parts! Metalwork almost done ready for the pre-body strip down, now if I could onl
    2 points
  28. 2 points
  29. Floor fully stripped, cleaned and seam sealer added around the seams. Some nasty rust hiding in some areas but not terminal. All remaining rust treated with kurust
    2 points
  30. Never noticed any difference in any of the carb cleaner sprays. All with toluene work well. Never dared use brake cleaner which is more vicious. Can of compressed air for cleaning keyboards and a length of 3mm diameter silicone tube. Seafoam dissolves fuel varnish. Dismantle and scrape with wood like a chopstick. Not the tiny holes or jets. If in a really bad state (ethanol phase separation yellow crud). An ultrasonic bath and a new set of gaskets. If water damaged corrosion white crusty powdered aluminium, new carb or fuel injection convers
    2 points
  31. Good morning Pete, the one thing that does happen is that the interior light occasionally doesn't come on when the door is opened, I must admit I put it down to the latch assembly being on its last legs, similar to the one I have just replaced on my wife's Beetle! Just to add that whenever I'm measuring current draw I do always latch the door as if it were shut so that the interior light is out, do you think that even if the light is out the there could still some how be a draw on the interior light circuit? I'll do the interior light disconnect this evening and report back with
    2 points
  32. and on to next rust hole. Just an advisory. Rust offside rear. Found it at rear tow hook. Started pulling away the underseal and filler ... and found a plastic bag in the cavity as a bung for the filler. The garage who repaired after the rear shunt left me a message. "Age concern" - thanks Carey! Wire wheeled and filed it as much as I could, then smothered it in Deox gel and cling-film. The tow loop carrier is not actually very strongly attached. This is going to be somewhat awkward to weld.
    1 point
  33. Hi, I’m a long time member and first time poster, as the last Polo we had was pretty reliable. My wife recently ‘upgraded’ to a Polo 1.4 SE 2006 9N3. It’s a 5 door auto with electric windows in the front and these do not work. The guy we purchased it from said it’s probably a fuse, but tbh we were a bit too trusting and found other issues with the car which were concealed… Guess I’ll clock that up to experience. I’ve done the following to try and diagnose the issue:- · Listen for motor clicking or any signs of life (none found) · Test the o/s switch (worked in a colleagues ca
    1 point
  34. She is looking stunning mate. Especially considering how tired she was when you started
    1 point
  35. In the Autodata wiring, Yellow/Black is Left Headlight from fuse#7 and the Right headlight is just Yellow no stripe from fuse 8
    1 point
  36. Oh phoenix red swallowtail. Bit rarer than my one then!
    1 point
  37. Yeah, the pedal end was the best solution for me - the closer to the pedal's pivot point you achor the cable, the longer travel you'll have. I don't know about the 6n but on earlier cars the pedal is made from 8mm metal wire, and the cable mount can just be bent closer to the hinge, creating a longer pedal travel.
    1 point
  38. Yeah on the later model 6N1 and the 6N2 they replaced that rubber trim with a plastic one and that has hinged access flaps at the mounting points but all models have the fittings on the roof for the roof bars
    1 point
  39. Success! New float needles sorted it. Attempted to balance the throttles with guns on carbalancer, it seems a bit crap though so don’t know how precisely I’ve done it. Took it for a spin and it’s driveable, albeit extremely slow. Think it’s pinging sometimes at high revs/wot. The one thing I’m confused about is the revs are often hanging, I’ll get up to a speed and it’ll just coast at that speed without engine braking. When I brake or bring the clutch up the revs drop back to normal (ish) Takes ages to go back to idle after blipping the throttle too, return springs see
    1 point
  40. Happy days, easy sorted! The metal was definately better in the earlier MK2s
    1 point
  41. Problems with the servo vacuum hose tend to be at the junctions of the hard plastic pipe, especially either side of the non-return valve:
    1 point
  42. When I first got the golf on the road after being in a barn for 15 years I had the same problem. Every now and then it would splutter and die. pulling the feed pipe to the fuel pump and blowing down it would sort it for a week or so until I changed all the fuel lines!
    1 point
  43. Wow - what a find! As a fan of MK1s & owner of a facelift MK1 Derby GLS - to find a chrome bumper car in this sort of condition (& in these circumstances) really is the stuff of dreams! The VW Derby I believe first reached our shores at the very end of 1977 - my Derby is one of the first of the facelifted models & was registered in May 1979 - so the chrome bumpered cars were only ever sold in this country for a little over a year - so this car really is a very rare find indeed. Most surviving MK1s (due to being pretty prone to going rusty) - have in their pasts often be
    1 point
  44. I should add that this is part number 030 905 205 B and a new one is around £500 https://www.tav-autoverwertung.de/shop/Distributor-Bosch-0-237-021-041-030-905-205-B-VW-Golf-Jetta-Polo-10L-HZ-AAK-ACM
    1 point
  45. I used to own this car in Scotland. I drove it for a year and loved it. Great to see it is finally getting the work it deserved. I didn't have the time due to other projects so I sold it to a mate who had good intentions but he also had to let it go.
    1 point
  46. Hey guys, I have a completely standard yellow colour concept with a yellow open air roof. How many of these cars are still left out there?
    1 point
  47. Yes i have all five wires but no rain sensitive wipers - from left to right small brown/black tracer, large brown, orange/yellow tracer, white/black tracer and green/yellow tracer.
    1 point
  48. Sorry for the lack of updates, progress has been a bit slow getting all the bodywork issues sorted to be honest and a lot of it has ended up in the dustpan! Plus issues with the fitment of the existing exhaust & fuel tank for which part numbers seem to be right but fit is iffy. I have still been building up the parts stash though, most recently a boxed NOS hard-rim steering wheel and NOS trim parts for the leading edges of both the front wings as well as a set of '74-'76 Audi 50 waist trims for the sides - all stainless with a flick up on rear quarter rather than t
    1 point
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