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Anyone else think this reads very spammy as a first post? Just lacks a link to the wonder product to be completely obvious.

The coil packs are normally pretty reliable there are resistance checks you can do if you search on here I know I’ve posted the checks a few times but unfortunately my laptop with the information is currently not working The other thing you could check is the sensor grounds mostly Brown/Yellow wires that go to a bolt on the cylinder head

The running and then cutting out sounds like the G28 crankshaft sensor if the camshaft sensor fails the ECU uses the crankshaft sensor as a backup but if that fails or gives erroneous data then the ECU will shut the engine down the only other sensor that would cause a shutdown is the knock sensor You can see the sensor outputs on VCDS in the measuring blocks and also in the Vscope display

Definitely, yes, but I'm not a mod any more, so I'll just leave it at explaining a better option than the product in the spam.

It's an ECU bracket, on a car that doesn't have an ECU. VW were planning ahead.

UPDATE: I spent an evening sanding the crankshaft and conrod journals, getting them to a state where they weren't smooth to the touch but they were operationally smooth. Plastigauge read that they were still within clearance spec, and an old-timer on a youtube video said not to worry too much about indents running around the bearings, as oil would simply fill those little gaps (not ideal, but not a show-stopper). So I reassembled everything, and the car has been running smoothly for a week now. This weekend, I'm going to drop the sump and verify the state of the oil, conrod/crankshaft play, and the status of the bearings. Looks like what VAG said was impossible, not giving any information in the service manual for bearing replacement saying that as soon as you even undo the crankshaft bolts the engine block has to be replaced, is in fact doable—at least in the short term, as I now need to monitor for longevity—but so far so good!

Hi to everyone and sorry for my English. I did buy the same exact car i had 40 years ago and i am here for a lot of things i wasnt allowed to do in my 20s :)

There will be an ignition on supply on the heater blower switch that might be easier to use rather than that lead from the fusebox and yes I would still protect it with an inline fuse

I do! Life got in the way of updating this thread lol.... I'll have to get this thread up to date someday soon when the Polo goes back on the road! Here's a pic of what the front end looked like before it went off the road last summer.

First Welcome to the forum. Have a look at this https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/all/PO/773/8/825/825000

new choke cable fitted. It has a solid core so no strands to fray. I did have to drill the bolt wider to 2mm hole.

Wiring is too simple.. original radio had an on/off switch and buttons.I bridged standby and main power which was probably a mistake. Now trying unplugging the anti theft front panel. It has a GK engine.

Good to hear you've got it going again. I'm in a modern daily, and my old VW fix is a Seat Cordoba Vario TDI (mk4 polo estate basically) - Total shed. I'm just changing the broken pedal box that'sleft the clutch pedal about an inch from the floor since I got it, 2000 miles ago. But it does 60mpg and runs on anything that looks a bit like diesel.

Sweet besides the hickups along your way ha sounds fun non the less. I just unplugged the ignition on my radio and it doesn't drain battery, just have to turn on manually. Twin carb sounds cool, what engine did you partner this with?

Thanks, Yeti. Once bodywork gets bad then it doesn't make economic sense to put it back on the road. If I had a barn to hide it in for now, but I don't. So I've decided I'm going to try and do some good with it instead: https://www.giveacar.co.uk/ Truthfully it's just a car, but it was good work horse... Martin

VCDS live data of the MAP pressure will tell you that. During warm-up the ECU will be richening and advancing spark timing. There's usually a reference atmosphere barometric sensor in the ECU that should also be checked with just ignition on, then at idle. Could that be dirty/blocked? That's a guess. I'm a carbs guy.

Ok I see, thank you👍 the front tyres don't seem to have noticeable shoulder wear but also before I owned it (only had it a little while) it was only used for like 200 miles a year so maybe it's not had time to create noticeable wear? Not sure. Thanks for that part link though, that does seem like the right one

Have been browsing the forums a bit more to see if any one has posted similar issues. After talking with a friend, they said it maybe the thrust bearing but did find a post confirming its the gearbox (same part code as mine, same whining sound when under load). Thankfully they also posted a thread about a replacement box so know what codes I am looking for, so will do that in the parts forum, if I can find a box in the uk from a polo fan instead of a scrapper from europe it would be worth the risk/cost! Thanks for the reply, GT breadvan project sounds ace! Glad to hear you close to MOT, will keep an eye out.

I like it mid-way between floor and end of travel. 6mm of free play at the lever end says the always reliable caretakerplus https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/287595-clutch-biting-point-help/#findComment-2359045

So, the carb base was definitely a problem. The car started and I managed to make a lap of the block. Sufficiently confident, I tried it again. The engine died completely after a few hundred yards. I made it back by squirting carb cleaner directly into the carb in runs of about 50 yards. I gather, there is no fuel going in at all. I added 5 litres to make sure the tank wasn't empty. I have already replaced the fuel pump and will check the vapour separator. A new one is arriving today. I had replaced it but broke one spout during one of the carb disassemblies. The old one was fine, the floats inside were free. When rebuilding the carb I did not replace the float and needle but it seemed to move freely and the engine used to run fine before the car was parked for ten years. I did not test the accelerator pump throughput. This may be a test of fuel making it to the carb reservoir. I did replace the gaskets, plunger, and cleaned quite a lot of ... that had accumulated over 40 years. The saga continues.

Thanks guys! The Formel E seems to have the low end of the high end components. It does have the electric cut-off valve. I tried it, it clicks nicely. Thanks for the diagramme dvderlm! Unfortunately, I can pretty much recite it with my eyes closed by now but this is the right one, indeed! Very helpful assignment of the two vaccum connectors on the side - explosion A. I found a description bun noone explained which one was which :-) I am about to replace the carb mount. I bought one but I have the niggling feeling it's not the right one. Just ordered another one from heritage parts. Once it arrives, I'll take the carb all apart. Again... Need to check the throughput of the accelerator pump, as well. Split base fits the bill, will see. I only just realised what split meant - it splits horizontally between the upper and lower plates; I was looking for vertical cracks. TBC

Thanks for the suggestions! I think after the heatwave I'll take the carb out, again, and may replace the mount. I was unable to remove the main nozzle during the last rebuild, may give it another try. A spacer came with the rebuild kit but I haven't braved adding it. I guess if the mount's bad, the spacer won't solve the problem. I need to check the throughput of the accelerator pump, as well as the fuel pump. It's turned into a bit of a saga this one...

Crazy 20 years!!! I still have Bluey just hasn't moved from the comfort of the garage for 3 years. I very much miss the polo show and seeing all my polo friends, although I don't especially miss the BBQ in this heat 🥵

Waded in on this one recently. The right bellows with the very snug end will go over with a lot of persuading. You have to stretch it out in hot water and really get stuck in. The right part has a shorter compressed length, I was worried about the alternative that goes on easy popping off at the small end when compressed. I put the CV grease on the rack teeth not under the bellows. You have to fart about getting the sock off etc. I nipped the adjuster screw up a bit too.

I’ve just seen a post on Threads the guy heated the bleed nipple up with an induction heater and it wouldn’t move so he heated it again and then while it was still red hot he rubbed a candle around the thread and it then released with minimal effort 🤷‍♂️

Thanks for the thread! the brake nipples sadly already rounded when I got it so gonna keep tapping and gassing and using mole grips and possibly fire for a week or two, if no success may try your suggestion of bleeding at the hose

oh fair enough. Still not bad for 35 years old.

was composing that while you replied. Yes, walk away.

I will search better engine 😁

All about the same level of difficulty. Mechanically and electrically. Don't underestimate how hard it is to safely remove an engine, undo driveshaft spline bolts or lift a gearbox back onto the block. That said, Polos are nice to work on. I'd fit an HK and get it running with a Weber 32/34 DMTL kit conversion 1887097400. (Then move to bike carbs if this is not enough power... it will feel much more than you have now, and brake upgrade will be sensible... though I assume you have left hand drive with a brake servo boosted by vacuum from the inlet manifold. UK right hand drive Mk2 do not because of the battery location and firewall profile or maybe cost, lower power. No GK sold in Great Britain). The more complete donor engine you can find with all accessories the easier it should be, or you may find yourself needing to source strange things like different alternator wiring connectors or different thermostat housing, or coolant temp sensor, gearbox reverse switch for example.

Well done. Is it a headlamp switch glow lamp to find the switch in the darkness with engine running? Or maybe the loom designed for Audi 50 with headlight on confirmation lamp in dash?

That is probably a plastic cog worn or stuck. Might need a specialist to repair it.

So, As the title suggests, I've set a target and I'm going tonshoot for it. Picked up the Bready in Dec 23. It had an ABD fitted but was running on the 1.0 spi system. Took it to the dyno to see how it was running and surprisingly it was OK. Lambda sensor doing its job and sorting the fuelling. Result of running the 1.0 SPI was great low down torque but out of puff up top. Played with the timing a little and settled on a better ifke abd 61bhp rather than another couple of bhp and a worse idle. Found out the cat was empty which probably helped a bit with the power/torque. Now fitted the correct 1.3 SPI, port matched the inleta little better, a 4-2-1 manifold and have some b2b testing to do on the manifold heater (hedgehog) removal. Aside from this I acquired myself a piper bp300 cam, a spare ABD engine and have begun the strip down to see what's possible. No aftermarket internals available so looking at different options. Most likely current plan is to skim the pistons and deck the block by an equal amount to get the 9.5:1 CR up closer to 11:1. I'll also do some head work and look in to the possibility of larger valves (again nothing off the shelf). I'll add a set of itbs and standalone ecu and hopefully get somewhere near my target. The whole thing would be a lot simpler with the 1.3!!! Some pics below.

Look at the dyno results above.

So having replaced both the cam and the tappets on an intact block, first at tdc use a whizy gun to loosen the cam nut, this way you don't have to take the black plastic off, then slide the cam belt off after you've loosened the water pump and spun it to release the tension, next cam bolt out, then knock off the pulley, undo the caps and cam out, at tdc with the engine not moving the valves wouldn't go far even if they touch a cylinder, next pull the tappets out and slide the new ones in, to fill with oil literally bath of oil and compress the tappets with your fingers, then fit cam, ensuring its at tdc and fit the caps, then the pulley, cambelt on and tighten, then spin engine by hand to ensure clearances listening for strange noises, and ensuring no tight spots, refit rocker cover and turn over with king lead off to ensure nothing untoward, provided everything checks out start it and ensure its sounding healthy before going for a jaunt, if you're still uneasy take the head off.

Thanks for the info @Pete1. I went back to basics and bled the cooling system first, and found that the input heater hose got hot and the output stayed cool. I figured it was the heater core, so I took the hoses off and flushed it out with water, reattached the hoses and now I have heat, enough at least for those mornings hovering around 0. Am pretty sure I need to drain the whole system and refill it though, there was a LOT of gunk in there.

Hi. Thanks, I had looked on eBay but didn’t know where to start or what to trust. And, yes, I’m assuming it is the sharp peaks of the corrugations that have fractured. For £7, it’s the same price as a reel of self-amalgamating tape and a more robust likelihood of a fix, I suspect!

New look (wheels and 4cm ta technix)

Just wanted to add incase it has not been mentioned on the thread, you can purchase a 1J0 959 753 AG Fob (the two button lock/unlock variant) and it will work with the 6Q0 959 433 E CCM. In order to synchronise/pair the fob to the CCM I had to use the manual teaching method (note I have not yet had the blade cut so used 2 existing keys for this method, you do not need to have a cut blade for the fob in order to manually pair the remote fob): Use an existing working key to turn the ignition to the on position Roll the window down (not sure if this is necessary or more precautionary incase something goes wrong to ensure you can get back into the vehicle) exit the car, close the door With the car still on (key in ignition turned to electrics on) place a second key into the door lock (can use the new fob if the blade has been cut) Twist the key in the door to lock and unlock the car Then press any button on the new fob You should hear an click from the car The fob is now paired and if you remove the key from the ignition and close the door, then press a button on the fob it should work I did also try using VCDS to adapt the AG fob to the car, it did make a click sound for the existing AD fob and the new AG fob, but only the AD (3 button) fob worked, the AG (2 button) fob did not do anything when I pressed to lock/unlock. VCDS also showed only 1 stored remote after doing this procedure, so make sure to use the manual teaching method instead for the AG fob. My assumption is that the VCDS diagnostic key adaptation is very particular about which fob model it will allow to be stored in memory, whereas the manual teaching method is more lenient. (Note that after doing the manual method to successfully pair the AG fob to the car, VCDS still showed only 1 stored remote, however both the AD fob I purchased initially, and the AG fob are both working perfectly to lock and unlock the car) (Incase anyone is wondering, the reason I got the 2 button AG fob after initially purchasing and using the 3 button AD is that I preferred having 2 large lock/unlock buttons as I never used the boot unlock feature)

it's the same i once had, also the plate number are mixed but they are the same. But non exactly the same car. By the way, it has less km now than the one i had once ! :) :)

I left as is but with inline fuse now. I made my own holder bracket etc. Thanks all for help.

I don't actually have a cigarette lighter. Interior light, Cig lighter & Radio are fuse 11 on mk2. So not sure now, sorry. I thought key needed to be at Acc position for radio but it remembers stations when key removed. So it must have both switched and standby feeds. And interior light does not need key. Will cig lighter work without key?

I'd use an ignition switched live, otherwise it'll drain the battery. You shouldn't need a heavy wire, but do put a fuse in the circuit because old gauges can do unexpected things. Whereabouts are you planning on fitting it?

Yes, further away from the body opens it further at stone cold, thus increasing the time it takes to close fully. RPM at this setting is >2000 when you fire it up, and most of the usual splutter goes away. Worth knowing, and thanks to Tim at Rottele Racing in DE for raising this to my attention.

Thanks. Gone with Green stuff, yet to fit them and see how it goes ?

Well, the good old Haynes manual wasnt quite correct. There werent 4 bolts holding the hot air distributor in. After a chat with a mechanic at the local, formally VW franchise garage, he suggested taking out the pollen filter housing, as it was likely protruding down into the top of the fan housing. I took out the pollen filter housing and reached down into the top of the fan, gave it a push and it all came free. So there were only 3 bolts and the rest was being held in by the pollen filter case protruding into the top of fan housing. Also, the Haynes said that once the hot air distributor was out, you had to start splitting it in half to get the heater matrix out. Whilst looking at the top of the matrix, I noticed a clip in each side. I eased them back and lifted the old matrix out. Cleaned up the inside and hoovered out the old bits of foam, then just slid the new one into place, till the clips locked on. Now just the ball ache of refitting the dash and all the associated stuff.

This may do the trick.

Hey everyone, just joined the group and wanted to share my Mk2 Polo Saloon project. This is my 1982 VW Polo Classic C in Gambia Red. It’s a pretty rare one - only a handful of this specific C trim level are still registered in the UK, with just 6 currently on the road according to the latest figures. It’s still running the original 1.1L engine and 4-speed gearbox, but the bay’s been fully cleaned and refreshed with loads of new OEM parts. Only non-original bit under the bonnet is a GPI stainless radiator, adapted to work with the original fan and housing so it still keeps that factory look. The car sits on TA Technix coilovers, 15” Rota BM8s with stretched Nankangs and 10mm MTEC spacers, plus a custom stainless exhaust and a Mk1 Golf GTI duckbill splitter up front. Interior-wise, it’s mostly original with some thoughtful upgrades: Fully sound-deadened using 3mm sound deadening sheets (no added insulation) Hidden Pioneer 4” oval speaker under a shaved OEM grille Dash-mounted Pioneer tweeters A pair of 80s Hitachi SX-103 parcel shelf speakers, which I plan to gut and rebuild with modern Pioneer internals to keep the retro look but with modern sound quality Other touches include a Kamei golf ball gear knob, Wolfsburg drilled window winders, wooden lock pins, and a Momo Heritage wooden steering wheel to finish it off. It’s also had a solid mechanical refresh: Febi Bilstein control arms, rear drums, and wheel bearings Brembo front discs Polybush castor-correcting ARB mounts Next up is a top-end refresh; head gasket, timing belt, water pump, and head skim/rebuild to keep things reliable for the long run. It gets a lot of love wherever it goes, and I’m enjoying slowly building it into something unique while keeping the original spirit intact. Feel free to follow my journey on Instagram: @l3owt_ Looking forward to seeing what everyone else is building!

I’d just like to resurrect this thread for a moment as i can’t find a definitive answer elsewhere. Will a mechanical HK 1.3 head go onto a 3F GT block? Do both mainfolds match up? Does the GT dizzy fit properly? Does the stat housing need changing? I gather that the HK head was a favoured one for cam and valve upgrades, preferable to the GT hydraulic head.

Some back to back testing of modifications. Dyno graph 1: The lower line (72.31bhp/128.78nm)shows the first run in the spec I arrived with. That is a 1.4 ABD, using a 1.3 inlet/tb and SPI unit with a gravity 4-2-1. Everything else standard. I then fitted the modded hedgehog (shown in pics) and went again. This picked up 5bhp & 5nm at peak buuuut......at some points it's +6bhp & 10nm(4k rpm)! As you can see from the graph it doesn't lose out anywhere. Dyno graph 2: The lower line shows where we ended up in graph 1. The higher line shows the same spec but now with my homemade induction kit added. Peak bhp almost exactly the same however......peak torque up by 4nm but more importantly, there are points we are +7nm (3250-3500rpm) getting rid of the slight dip in torque. You can also see it picks up 4bhp at the same rpm as the torque increase. As you can see from the graph it doesn't really lose out anywhere bar the tiniest crossover at 2250. Quite surprising to me. Even more interesting was the fact that it actually helped the fuelling in the upper rpm range richening it up a tad. I'm guessing the air speed helping better combustion? Unsure of this but its the best reason I can currently think of. Dyno graph 3: This is the overlay of how I drove in, to how I drove out of the day. Dyno graph 4: This shows the original 1.0 SPI system dyno vs the best combo of mods plus a tin of octane booster in the tank. I didn't get a graph print of with vs without octane booster but I did get the number table of all the graphs shown in no.5. Picked up a couple bhp at points and up to 3nm. It seemed to be very consistent too once we'd let it run for a bit to mix it in. This I'm not bothered about I just had it so thought I may as well try it. Disclaimer: actual numbers I'm not fussed by. 79bhp or 72bhp, one dyno will read different to the next. What I'm concerned with are gains. I used the sane dyno, same sainsburys premium fuel, same tyres/pressures and kept as much as I could exactly the same. Hope you've all found it useful. Can't wait to see all the bald hedgehogs now! 😆 Hit me up with any questions and I'll do my best to answer. Peace