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Showing content with the highest reputation since 22/12/18 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    The Polo Social, what is it? The Polo Social is a social event held on 28 June ~ 01 July 2019 that is put on by Club Polo which is open to all VW Polo owners from any Club. So, if you are part of a local club bring everyone down and grab a spot in the field. What to Expect? A relaxed event where you can catch up with other members, see their cars and meet new people from the club. Expect a big club meet which lasts the weekend with some beers and BBQs! What’s going on? Details are yet to be finalised but plans are for the club BBQ to return on the Saturday night, Show and Shine on the Sunday. We are looking to have some things going Saturday daytime. Where is it? The event is held at Billing Aquadrome, Northampton Billing, NN3 9DA. http://www.billingaquadrome.com/ Tel: 01524 781 453 We have held the event here for a number of years before our recent departure to Kelham Hall, and it’s an excellent venue which really suits the club’s event. There is food available on site and there are also a couple of pubs and a Fish & Chips shop in walking distance. There is also the Mini-Golf, Karting and a leisure centre with a pool. What do you need? If you are camping then you need the general camping gear of tent, sleeping bag, etc. If you want to clean your car up for the show and shine on the Sunday there is a cold-water supply so, bring your bucket and cleaning gear. Also bring some money but there is a cash machine by the entrance to the site. How much does it cost and how to book? If you are camping the rate is £21/night. A pitch is for a tent for up to 4 people, if you have extra cars they may charge you extra. If you are a paid up member there is a discounted rate see this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/357805-polo-social-2019/ To book head to http://www.billingaquadrome.com/ and click book now. Then please select Shelduck 2 as this is our field. If you are camping for just the Saturday night then its £21 per pitch. You can book this online as per above but you might not be able to select Shelduck 2. Please select another field but just pitch up in the Shelduck 2 field with the rest of us when you arrive as there will be loads of room. The day rate is £10 per car.
  2. 1 point
    dropped some oil down spark plug hole. think i over did it, about a tea spoon in each one. could even see reflection of my eye in it . cranked it on starter motor , took around 5 seconds and got oil pressure, 2 bar, then 3 bar, 4, then 5 bar then turned it off. seemed like it was going to go over that aswell. the gauge only goes to 8 bar.
  3. 1 point
    When I've messed with engines it's taken more than a few cranks time get the light out.and yes vasleine in the pump gets them working faster
  4. 1 point
    First Welcome to the forum. 99% of problems like you have are down to broken wires in the flexy rubber tube between the door and the body
  5. 1 point
    That is because no sutch relay exists !! there is the "X" contact relief relay but neither the headlights or Horn are fed from that relay, The Horn is fed direct from the ignition switch, likewise the main supply for the headlights, so you could be looking at poor contacts in the ignition switch.
  6. 1 point
    Good to see you back in breadvan Martin! Looks a very nice one with a wee bit of work.
  7. 1 point
    Hi all, I continue my story about my smurf, last post I finished in the beginning of a story fuel tank neck. Since I can't use a welding, I bought an epoxy repair kit, in which contains - fiber glass, and epoxy with hardener. Then using own hands I used that kit on the fuel tank neck. The following work was performed on the handbrake system. My handbrake was worked very bad, sometimes was not turn off, because a brake cable was old, and from another car, presumably from the Lada. Some people very often offer me a solution in the form of replacing a faulty part with a part from a Lada, I only think - you have bought a import car for make from its a lada))) No, I,m not like that)) Then after talking with good people, I made the factory handbrake fixtures. So that was work, which I was made about the handbrake, because it's necessary joint. Sorry me for my french))) I learning)) Bye Bye!!
  8. 1 point
    32 or 34 refers to the barrel size. Inside each barrel is a venturi which the most restrictive part - it has to be because the faster air through the restriction creates low pressure that sucks fuel and air from the carb well through the carb jet stacks (air corrector + emulsion tube + fuel jet). There are auxiliary venturis inside this restriction which assist this process - Bernoulli principle. The actual size of venturi is to be found in an oval on side of carb - behind choke mechanism usually. The 32/34DMTL with 24/25 venturis is well suited to the 1.3 Polo engine. This carb also has an enrichment mechanism that allows lower fuel consumption most of the time which others do not, giving economy and performance. As standard Pierburg 2e3 uses 19 and 23mm venturis on 1.3 Polo. The (discontinued) Weber 30/32DMTR replacement kit 18870975 for 1.3 Golf has only 22/22 venturis and is very responsive, with a fraction less top-end (<2bhp difference) to the 32/34DMTL.. http://www.webcononline.co.uk/library/wcimg/FittingInstructions/FL0234.pdf There are 34DMTR variants with larger venturis from other cars (Citroen Lancia) which can be made to work and are worth considering if you are going to aim for high revs with longer duration or higher lift cam, or head porting, or bigger valves.
  9. 1 point
    The one you want is a Weber 32/34 DMTL carb, easy to come by and there are still firms offering the full conversion kit. You could try cobbling one together, but for the price they sell for you'd robably be best buying a complete kit I've recently renewed my carb setup (see my build thread)
  10. 1 point
    Nice work. Although that exhaust is trash. Get a nice little single pipe
  11. 1 point
  12. 1 point
    After a day of puzzling I figured i could get a socket on the crankshaft and a hammered-in star bit with a breaker bar on the end if the engine was jacked down just right. Had to lie down and kick the breaker bar to crack the buggers free! Job done but dear god that was a lot of faffing!
  13. 1 point
    That PCG number did come up on a US Porky site as a direct replacement for the VW 036 103 129
  14. 1 point
    You are doing good work Eskey. I live in Johannesburg, South Africa and I bought my 1997 Polo Genesis about eight months ago without an engine and exhaust system. Just as in Russia, these Polos are scarce here in SA. I have been battling to find an engine since I bought the car. It warms my heart when I see so much love go into a car as you have displayed and I admire your courage to take on a project such as this, knowing that you will face challenges due to lack of spares/parts. Keep doing what you doing buddy.
  15. 1 point
    Well, it's been a while. Figured I'd drop in and say hi. The Polo is still here, obviously. Well, technically it's not as it's stashed in my parents' garage at the moment because we're having work done on the driveway and my garage is full of builders' tools. But I still have it. And, since my last update, I'm now a Dad of three. Because who needs sleep, and hobbies? What's new? It's got boost return hoses for the first time: 42543B6D-86F5-4389-AE01-E8BD29146981 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr This turned into a bit of a 'mare as I had most, but not all, of the required pipework and was missing the non-return valve that goes into the crankcase breather. Those weren't cheap to get hold of, but not too difficult to source via VW Heritage. And they're 100% worth every penny because I don't think it's ever run better than it does at the moment. I miss the hiss it made when changing gear, but it's smoother and seems quicker than it ever has. Ultimately that's the second most exciting thing fitted this year because... my eldest is no longer in ISOFIX seats. So he can go out in it with me, if I strap his booster into the passenger seat. This thing was my first car back when I was 17, it feels weird being a greying mid-30s Dad, taking my school-age son out in it. But he loves it. Untitled by alexgrantuk, on Flickr So much, in fact, that he seems to think it's his. He'll be signing up on here before I know it: A9B29D8E-FE89-438C-AF13-3F9963E83569 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr We've been to a couple of car meets in it this summer. It needs a proper polish and wax, but I don't know when I'll get the time to do that. Maybe when the kids leave home... Untitled by alexgrantuk, on Flickr Just as well he does like it, as we've outgrown our family car (the Renault), which throws up the need to convoy: Untitled by alexgrantuk, on Flickr Thankfully, though, I've been able to get my hands on this as a daily. It's a beast - 184bhp, 2.0 TDI with a DSG box and pretty much all the options. Not a bad steer, either: 5EBB691D-C1BB-46D1-AEAB-A0B50CB9D7D4 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr This is better, though. Kept my car company for a few days. Good fun: 4E43956F-1771-4F29-A2AC-CB16F899E7D3 by alexgrantuk, on Flickr B2A3AE38-CD33-489B-BB8A-FE630FE6DB9E by alexgrantuk, on Flickr Up GTI was good fun as well. Not quite a complete hot hatch, but a giggle nonetheless. Untitled by alexgrantuk, on Flickr Not much else to report, really. It's just a good all-round day-to-day performance car. Quick, fairly frugal when you want, decent on a long journey, and becoming really quite unusual on the road. It gets quite a lot of attention these days, I guess because you just don't see them around. New tyres next...
  16. 1 point
    yeah fit a set of valve stem seals while its off...idealy lapping the valves in at the same time
  17. 1 point
    That looks awesome, I had one in this colour years ago, it was what made me buy it!!
  18. 1 point
    Vow! Read the whole tread tonight. Made me realize that I really need to get mine up and running
  19. 1 point
    Few people expressed interest when i posted about how to repair the usual mk3 fault of the snapped rear hanger, there are a few solutions but here is mine. it takes about 2 hrs all in and a tea break Parts needed VW repair panel - 867 803 785 and its only £8.81 + vat (£10.35) 2x 8mm x75 length bolts or similar £2max ( you can go 10mm but i means drilling out more material) middle rear bump stop rubber optional (i missed it out as it does feck all but you can fit it if you like). 2 new back box exhaust rubbers £2max 4x 8mm penny washers £1max Tools Needed a hack saw electric drill + drill bits small, medium then a 8mm (or 10 to match the bolts you bought) angle grinder (quickest way to get the old hooks off) heat gun or hairdryer to melt the underseal. bit of wood to fit in the middle of the hanger to drill it so it doesnt bend a large file and a wee circle file (not essential but saves cutting your fingers or mr MOT mans). old broken hanger on my loon did ok for 18 years - good old VW - but i have heard of them braking long before this and then the cable tie army take over usually. new bits: vw panel, rear exhaust, 2 "O" rings and mid box one and a few long bolts (only need 2 of them) so i got about changing the vw panel as i dont do welding, and prefer uber minimum drilling holes in things. panel before on left and as modified on right. then i grinded off the remaining leg on the car and heat gunned all the underseal on the sides of the original panel, but not on the floor so it remains sealed or you will just open it up to water attack, and then drilled holes through it so it looks like this: (file the edges till they are smooth) then its a case of drill the VW panel to match and file the holes then its a nice push up and bolt through operation (may require some hammer time action! ). I chose to double nut it so its locked and cant go anywhere or vibrate loose : then i put the "O" rubbers in a old tea pot with water and boiled them for about 5 min so they were lovely and soft. then they slide on nicely. and jobs a good un! then just go give it a blast to make sure its not going anywhere and relax for another 18 years! only thing i might do extra is give it a coat of paint and underseal round the panel for a proper job.
  20. 1 point
    Bolted the axle on with the rear coilovers, didn't take many pics. Spent ages tapping out all the threads - especially important on the captive nuts for the bolts from axle bracket to body, as the bolts are thread-locked from the factory, and new ones come with thread lock already applied. If you don't clean out the thread, and are using a new bolt, the bolt will bind. Carried on with the tapping: Newly painted drum back plates, new stub axles bolted on: New brake shoes and brake cylinders: Finished them off with new bearings in new drums and put it all back together with some help from Yoof. Forgot to take pics, so this is the best I can do! Might need to get some longer springs for the rear coilovers, as the arse end is a bit lower than it was before - and I'm pretty much as high as I can go on the adjuster: Shit pic, but I bought some coilover socks. They're neoprene sleeves with a velcro strip - idea is you cover the threaded part of the coilover with them to prevent it getting wet and shitty, hopefully helping to stop it seizing. They were cheap, so I'm not expecting much! Fitted new PPP/Bartek bushes to the adjustable TCAs. I'd initially tried these with the standard rubber bushes in the name of R&D, and the conclusion is - don't bother... The repainted brake servo I'd done previously was a bit shit. My garage is a pre-fab, so it's damp and cold. Seemed that when I'd painted and rust treated the servo some moisture had got behind the paint. Anyway, Kiz very kindly gave me a pimped-up servo at the Club Polo RR day - so I fitted that today: As it upset PeteG40 so much, I removed the steering arms for paint. Dismantled the brake fluid reservoir and gave it a clean. And clipped it back together. Have a 22mm master cylinder to plug it into, but ran out of time this evening to put all that together. Some new brake lines from Automec. Originally they didn't have the Mk3 Polo lengths on file, so had offered to do them for a bargain £25. Unfortunately for me, someone beat me to it in giving them the lengths! I got them to make me a custom set anyway though, as I'd got the proper lengths from ETKA and what Automec had on file wasn't quite right (but should be now!). Properly nicely made in copper-nickel with brass fittings, and sure beats wasting a day making messy pikey flares myself.
  21. 1 point
    Time for an update... Mint tailgate was sourced - £65 seemed cheap compared to nearly £300 that VW wanted... Masked up and had its first blow over of primer: Was spending far too much time on t'internet trying to source little odds n sods for the rebuild. Am a bit shocked by how much is obsolete these days, 'til I remind myself this is a 20 year old car. Anyway, some fairly hefty orders went into TPS and VW Heritage while I cracked on clearing out the garage ready for the car's return. New tailgate seal came from eBay: Was supposed to be genuine VW, but it's about as genuine as the stuff you get from GSF these days... Anyway, the seal is the right profile and length, so it'll do! Odds n sods Time for another lambda boss in the downpipe. Unfortunately it's warped during welding, so bought an M18x1.5 tap and 16.5mm drill bit to sort it. Can't complain, a mate welded it for nowt. Have never been happy with the old probe location as a probe there always seemed to read 0.5-1.0 AFR richer than at tailpipe. Meant for trouble come MOT time, so will see if this sorts it or whether it's a leak in the ancient Tube Torque pikey exhaust. Ultimately not too arsed as I'll be getting a custom downpipe made once it's back on the road to mate up to a shiny new PPP system I've got. Cleaned the gearbox up with alloy wheel cleaner - before and after: Cleaned up the water pipe from the back of the block and painted it in stove enamel (I knew there was a reason we paid a fortune to have a fancy wood burner fitted - free paint!): Decided to get a load of bits powder-coated though, and threw this in with them. Should've been ready today, but have to wait to the end of the week. Electrolysis for de-rusting Promised to post some info on the electrolysis process to de-rust stuff. This is my setup: Basically a big bucket filled with water and soda crystals. Then a sacrificial anode is added and connected to the positive of a power supply. I used an old steel baking tray for the anode which needs regular cleaning off with a grinder, but stainless steel works even better - though I think it makes the water a bit more toxic at the end. You then insert the item to be derusted as the cathode and connect it to the negative supply. In my case I wired the rusty items up, wrapped the wire around the block of wood, and clipped on my negative supply lead. I measured the current from the power supply, and found moving the parts closer together to get a current of approx 1.5A @ 14V worked well - otherwise you're waiting for hours and hours. Makes lots of pretty coloured scummy bubbles, but gets the rust off. If you've got utterly fucked parts, this won't save them as it can't magic metal back that's no longer there! But it will save hours with files/wet n dry etc. trying to clean mildly manky stuff up. Might need to repeat it a few times with scraping down inbetween to remove the scabby bits, but worked well. Sadly no pics, as I forgot before dropping things off for powder coating! Bodyshop update And finally some more progress from the bodyshop. First up, the 'Yoof' chassis leg re-inforcement: Secondly, the VW repair manual re-inforcement plates on the inner wings - can't hurt, and made sense while it was in bits: And finally, some stitch welding:
  22. 1 point
    Thanks for the kind offers guys! Will see what happens, it's 2 weeks to the big day and currently still in the spray booth - and a pile of parts are on back order with VW and VW Heritage. I have a decent Plan B, in that the old man's lending me his 485bhp Jensen FF for the weekend.
  23. 1 point
    I've got a set of these tyres and they're great. Really grippy both in the wet and dry. I've got 195/45/14s on 7j and 8j wheels. Here's the 8j:
  24. 1 point
    Heres mine minus the splitter
  25. 1 point
    i was having to change the shoes every 3 weeks......

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