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  1. 2 points
    right updates over 2018 i converted to mpi , didnt go as smoothly as expected and i struggled to sort a few issues with how it ran , eventually sorted it towards the end of 2018 brand new head came up for a good price...thought why not then march 2019 treated myself to this...still need to fit it
  2. 1 point
    Decided to film a little drive out in this.
  3. 1 point
    The H&R kit is easily the best budget kit for these cars. Young kids these days will easily spend £500 just to get the cheapest height adjustable coilovers to be scene. Trying to get across to them that you can save £200 and buy a fixed height kit that is better in every way is hard work.
  4. 1 point
    I did an hour on the motorway day after i fitted them. Only issue were my seats. But they look like they've been fingered by Wolverine. I have noticed MUCH less roll. Already had arb blocks in place. Even over speed bumps. The only rattles are from rear speaker surrounds. Previous owner over tightened the screws that hold them in place. Broke the plastic around the screws so little rattle over lumps and bumps. Really pleased with this kit. Will be recommending it to anyone who will listen.
  5. 1 point
    Quick update. Short story: Success at removing dodgy nut! Longer story: Nut splitters are hefty kit. Thankfully they fitted in on the dodgy nut. I played around with them a bit. Went at the nut till I was through enough that the squeeze mashed the nut off the thread a little at about 90 degrees round from where the chisel of the splitter was going in. So I decided not to go through all the way with the splitter cos it was on a bit wonky and didn't wanna touch the thread. Now the thread was broken I put on the PlusGas overnight. Next day put on the Irwin Bolt Grips and the mangled nut came free with a small amount of force and no damage to the stud!! So next step. Get the flex pipe welded in. Gonna get some advice from a fabricator rather than a garage. Probably chop out the old flex, prep and mark the new one up with parts on car before taking it back to the fabricators. New flex is stiffer so need to get this right. Think it's stiffer cos outer braid is totally off the old one. Will update further. Thanks again to everyone so far.
  6. 1 point
    This weekends bilit - hamber clay bar and polish and wax. Took about 3h but still have black trim that need attention etc.
  7. 1 point
    Long time no post! So a little update, as most know, I had a lovely RED MK1 Octavia which I adored. Well, obviously someone didn't want to have it as the other week I was taken out at a small round about. As I was indicating to turn right approaching the round about, a gentlemen in an Alfa decided not to stop and give way (he was coming from in front of me, to my left as I was turning right) and went straight into me damaging the front left passenger wing and setting off my air bags. Damage: KEY: Red is me Blue is the other driver Crushed all the side inner wing, cracked the struts housing attached to the chassis leg, which is bent out of place. Total WRITE-OFF! Was absolutely fuming and gutted. Well anyway, driver accepted liability and I've kept the car for spares. So on to my new car...... MK1 Skoda Octavia vRS - Black FSH Half Leather Seats Cruise Control Rear Parking Sensors Decided to go for a black one, same spec as the red but without the heated seats. I couldn't find a decent red one anywhere and I needed a car quickly. Freshly refurbished wheels and painted callipers So far I've changed the air vents as the old one had a broken slat, and changed the indicator switch. Installed a DASH CAM! Original OEM boot net, floor and back seats Aftermarket Boot Tray Black/Leather Octavia Armrest Heko Wind Deflectors MK4 Golf Aero Wipers Carbonio Cold Air Induction Kit (soon to be replaced with the Ram-Air kit) Black Grille with new style Skoda badges and wheel caps (to be done) New/used Skoda Octavia vRS car mats Milltek Non-Resonated Exhaust System (removed from red one) Black/Leather arm rest Official Skoda Octavia boot nets and tray insert Changed over the new diverter valve from the red one Things to do/add Remove and add heated seats to the black one Fit the 'Stage 2 R-Tech ECU' that's sitting in the garage Fit the 'THS Intercooler' that's sitting in the garage Replaced clutch with the Darkside Billet G60 Flywheel and Sachs VR6 Clutch Kit from the Red vRS Seat Cupra R Splitter Green/White Boost Gauge in A Pillar More to come soon!
  8. 1 point
    The weekend started and there were a few bits I needed to get fixed. I bought the car knowing the rear drivers door wouldn't open, what I didn't know is how much of a pain in the ass it was going to be. First of was taking the door card off while inside the car, how I managed to do it without breaking it amazes me..... With the door card off I was able to access the motor. Hitting it and trying the unlock button on the fob did nothing. I heard about some wiring issues with these but never experienced it myself, so I investigated the B-Pillar, here's what I found. Looks like water had got in and made it's way to the plug. After fighting with the said connector, I finally got it removed and found this. Now the only way I could get this door open is to some how remove the DEADLOCKS. Once again thanks to Nigel for his help here. He suggested cutting a hole in the plastic to show the gear and whine it back. Well what do you know, it worked! DOOR OPEN! Well I now know why it didn't work. So off to the Red vRS to get the loom out I needed. As it's all part of the interior loom I had to cut the plug off. Now with the door open I could remove the motor/lock. Well, this wasn't meant to be as someone previous had completely stripped the head of the bolts. Again, I asked advice of Nigel and a drill and extraction tool kit is what I needed. First one came out ok, but the second was giving me some trouble so I ended up drilling out the head of the bolt Got the donor motor/lock from the Red vRS and swapped them over. Connected the new plug for testing All greased up Loom in, connected up and tested! FINISHED! Absolute pig to do with stripped heads, but easy enough to once you know what you're doing. It's nice to have a fully functioning door again. MASSIVE THANKS TO NIGEL! 😍
  9. 1 point
    We do tend to end up going somewhere for nosh and a none-alcoholic beverage before driving home so it can be more of a day trip. I have also heard legends of a Wolverhampton or Dudley disco dancing establishment but fear it no longer exists. This town, is coming like a ghost town. All the clubs have been closed down. Bands won't play no more.
  10. 1 point
    Good thing you're safe. Hope insurance took care of everything.
  11. 1 point
    Hi @JR45, I've just personally gone through this, but not to that extent. I know what garages are like and insisted that they SEND someone out to me and assess the car there. This way the car is on the drive (if you have one) and no one can touch or move it. I had every intention of keeping the car hence the asking for someone to view it. I was given a value and then asked if I would be keeping the car, I said yes and the price was adjusted. I then got a call from my insurance clarifying all the info; I accepted the amount offered, I accepted to keep the car. They will usually email your or give it to you in writing, or maybe just verbal. While the insurance has it, they've in charge of it but you should still have to log book and V5 in your name. This only indicates that you're the registered keeper, but the insurance will call you. It doesn't get auctioned unless you agree. You still own the car until you agree the deal with the insurers so you can ask to keep it at an agreed price which will depend on what it is, the extent of damage and what category it falls into. UNTIL THEN, THE CAR IS STILL LEGALLY YOURS! If I was you, I'd get straight on the phone to them and demand to speak to the supervisor (or someone even higher), remember each call is recorded and you can request these in order to fight a case. I'd also find the garage/auction place and speak to the manager and not take any shit from them. Nothing has been cleared/agreed/finalised. For further information speak to someone from Citizens Advice, they might be able to help or put you in touch with someone who can clarify.
  12. 1 point
    Looks nice dude, look out for marauding Alfa drivers
  13. 1 point
    Looks good dude - get the black grill on it!
  14. 1 point
    for the hex bolts...always always use good quality tools so you dont chew the heads up , if you still chew the heads up then try hammering in a good quality torx bit i always give the socket a firm tap with a hammer to make sure its fully seated in the bolt...and sometimes the whack can loosen some rust too
  15. 1 point
    1. Yeti (slowda fabia) - member 2. dvderlm (polo sp) - member 3. Kwijibo_coupe (mk2 Saloon) - member 4. philpheasant (Skoda Fun) - Member 5. FREE 6.  Ross36 (Polo G40) - Member 7. Retrotub (Crossfire roadster) - Member 8.mbusby993 (E36 323i) - Non member 9. tomm12354 (Polo GTI 6n2) -Non member 10. Dwrharris (Mk2f Coupe) - Member 11. r 12. 13.  14. 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25.
  16. 1 point
    The Torx bolts are the reversed gear securing bolts !! so as you you have done this up with enough force to crack the housing I’m afraid you are looking at the minimum of dismantling the gearbox and checking the reverse gear mounting ☹️
  17. 1 point
    Impact driver might help. Most important is that the bit in the Allen head is fully in and tight. Clean the bolt head with pointy thing. Order new bolts (7zap website to find size and part number) Hammer in an oversize star bit torx bit allen bit, then use that with a 3/4 or 1/2 inch socket and longer bar. In gear so don't turn engine. . Are you trying to remove the crankshaft pulley? Why? Is the aux belt in way for fitting new cam belt?
  18. 1 point
    Hi guys I myself own one of these in the jazz blue ! I have been trying to find out how many of these were about but even after speaking to VW didn’t get much info at the time , would appear that they are fairly rare , I presumed this as when I bought it I myself had never seen a colour concept with the open air ..... EVER , hope we can try and find who owns the rest of them !
  19. 1 point
    I have never changed the bush - If there is little or no side-to-side or up and down movement in the shaft, I see no reason to change the bush. Regards
  20. 1 point
    Here's a how to guide with gearbox fitted in car https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/332235-sick-gearbox-on-6n/?tab=comments#comment-2618693
  21. 1 point
    just fitted a seal on mine ...seems okay
  22. 1 point
    I can still hear the Haribo ear-worm jingle in German. Are you going to use them to measure the valve to piston clearance? Haribo macht Kinder froh, und Erwachsene ebenso.
  23. 1 point
    Here's a link to the factory diagrams for the AFH http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/nige8021/library/Wiring Diagrams 2/AFH Wiring
  24. 1 point
    Ok and thankyou for the reply. Good point on supporting it all once it's released from the head. I'll give it a go next weekend if it stops raining! It just looks like a lot of work to get the throttle body off, disconnect fuel, cable, injectors etc etc and if I can just get it off from the head with everything still connected I think we will be in good shape Had a right result on the subframe this morning - got the old bracket off thet has the bracket for the single gear selector cable - had to anneal the spot welds to enable them to be drilled - cut it down and welded onto the new frame on top the existing bracket. Very pleased indeed. Update next weekend hopefully. Kind regards Phil
  25. 1 point
    Hi all been wanting to do one of these for a while but only just got the chance i bought my mk2f breadvan from stockport around september 2017 & it's been an on going daily project ever since. i painted it blue with graffiti paint lowered it on an ebay lowering kit & started doing shows in 2018. after blowing the first 1l engine up i did a quick engine change to another 1l for under £100 just to keep the car on the road. comes to november 2018 time & i wanted to start a winter build. started with painting the car, the car is now melon yellow - done with montana graffiti cans. yes i painted over the windows because i liked the look of a panel van & couldn't be bothered trying to track down some actual panels. bought a GT conversion with the 5 speed short ratio box, stainless manifold and a few extra bits. i liked the idea of having brand new parts even if the old ones were fine.. driveshafts, front coilovers, top mounts, bottom arms, track rod arms/ends, ARB Blocks etc. this build isn't the best thing ever but certainly is a eye catcher & i love the thing aha. this car is built to what i like... not what other people think. if i listened to everyone else it'd be sat here with a 40/60 lowering kit on bbs hahaa STRIP - DROP - RATTLE - ROLL (a motto i like to use from a club called DUBRATZ) if anyone has any questions feel free to ask. photos may not be in order the car currently isnt finished & i'm waiting for a few parts to arrive, i've just bought a new bonnet & wings as ones on the car had dents. follow me on insta: _jordoan_
  26. 1 point
    time to convert to mpi?
  27. 1 point
    I like the way this build is going, btw I'm the guy that sent you that gt badge! 👍
  28. 1 point
    Hey polo peeps. Hope you're all well and able to enjoy some of the Feb sun. Just wanted to share to stuff i tried out in my 83, mostly stock breadvan. I wanted music and DAB in my bready but am crap with wiring. Instead of choose a stereo and speakers and pay someone to butcher my door cards and interior to mount it all, i looked bluetooth speakers. So last year i picked up a jbl flip 2 speaker off *bay for about £30, with the intention of using it in place of a stereo in my breadvan. I'm not affiliated with them in any way, just read great reviews of thier products. I chose the flip because it's round and not square. The Roll by Urban Ears was also on my list as it's flat. It could just sit on the dash or even hang from the rear view/window winders, i just happened to get a flip first. Anyhoo, with a little hook and loop tape to keep it from sliding around, i managed to mount that bad boy in the mouth part of where the stereo would go. I've chosen to mount it there, as it's out of the sun, and also because it's black, it kinda blends in with the dash if i do decide to leave it in. I recently picked up a phone holder from *mazon by a company called mpow. Their stuff has good reviews too. Seems to stick to the bumpy surface under the dash quite well but it's early days yet. Have to see how it goes in summer. My Mrs picked up a flip 4 a while ago and i decided to give that a whirl instead of the flip 2. It sounds better than the flip 2 with music. The flip 4 has wider frequency response so you get more lows. The speaker phone function is much clearer on the flip 4 than the flip 2. You can link up as many as you like so if a mate has one, or even a few mates, you can have tunes in the front and back. Potentially even as a convoy if you drove close enough together, and carry on when you get where you're going. Doesn't even have to be a flip. Can use one of those massive sub ones that jbl make. Any newer jbl will work. Can only have one flip 2 connected at a time as far as i'm aware. The flip 4 is also waterproof. However, there are advantages of the flip 2 over the flip 4. The controls on the flip 2 are on the end so if it's mounted as i have done it, you can adjust the volume without touching your phone. The flip 4 controls are on the back/top depending on where you mount it. The flip 2 fits nicely into the stereo recess, whereas the flip 4 is bigger. It will still fit using the hook and loop but access to the controls is restricted unless you mounted in the dash or modified the stereo recess to accomodate, which means adjusting volume, answering calls by touching your phone while driving. Which is naughty. The flip 2 is way cheaper and although can still attract thieves, is less desirable than the flip 4. The flip 4 has better battery life but i'm able to keep my flip 2 connected to power source so not a massive issue. Both are easily removable, so one less reason for some sketchy cockwomble to break into your car! At this point, i'm looking to keep the flip 2 in place. Being able to make and take calls is handy but not a deal breaker for me. I can still use and hear map app through flip 2 just fine. The fact the flip 4 sounds better with music isn't a big deal in a noisy car either. I can hear music on the flip 2 just fine. I also use a DAB app on my phone if i get bored of my tunes. Also good for traffic updates. As a side note, i did also try out the jbl trip speaker. Uses a magnet system to clip onto the sun visor. Great bit of kit but really only geared as a hands free phone speaker. Music sounds crap through it. If you have a decent stereo but want to do hands free, maybe that's the one for you. As i mentioned above, there are other options, Roll by Urban Ears is flat and it is possible to link more than one. I haven't tried that one yet but will keep an eye out for a cheap one to test.
  29. 1 point
    Really nice, you have to go all the way with a look like that for it to work Whats the engine spec
  30. 1 point
    Those fuses are on top of the battery This gives a description of the springs (sport/heavy duty etc) for the different engine codes https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+classic+variant/poc/2000-236/4/407-407011/#26
  31. 1 point
    This what the fuses look like when they have completely broken This will give you an idea what struts should be fitted https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+classic+variant/poc/1998-241/4/ and remember your car shares most parts with the Seat Cordoba
  32. 1 point
    It's a VW feature. Open the driver's door and the lift pump runs and primes the high pressure circuit, so there's less delay when starting.
  33. 1 point
    I can see the green crud in your picture, which obviously needs investigating/cleaning. A common problem with doors (particularly the drivers door) is that, due to constant flexing when the door is opened/closed, wires inside the rubber convoluted sleeve between the body and the door, tend to 'work harden' and eventually break. I'm not really sure why working inside your door should make the fuel pump start though, but at least you know what area you were working in when the pump started. A word of caution when working inside doors - Keep your fingers away from the window winding mechanism, once these things start to move under power, they don't stop! even when they have your fingers in their grip. Another fairly common problem on your model, is the 'plate' fuses. In appearance, they look as if they might just be connecting links, but are in fact, fuses. The problem with these is that they tend to crack, the crack being invisible with the fuse in place, but when the fuse is removed, it breaks in half along the crack. I'm glad that you have sorted the problem, it just goes to show what a little determination can do. Regards.
  34. 1 point
    The fuel pump relay also supplies power to the injectors the lambda sensors and the carbon canister valve, the power to the coil pack is via the ignition switch via fuse #34 (10amp)
  35. 1 point
    The ECU switches an earth signal to the fuel pump relay from pin 65 of the ECU (Grey/Blue wire) and that goes direct to the relay, the power for the relay coil is from fuse #26 via the airbag crash relay and the actual power for the fuel pump is via fuse #2 (50 amp) on the battery box.
  36. 1 point
    In cold weather, it is quite normal to get 'mayo' building up, especially if the car is used mainly on short runs. This stuff is made up of emulsified oil, the water content of which is simply down to condensation inside the engine. Your photographs show minimal amounts - If you remove the oil filler cap and find tons of the stuff, that may be a different matter, but even then, I doubt that it would prevent your engine from starting. In attempting to answer your second question, the answer would be 'yes', it could be things other than the ECU that are preventing the car from starting BUT, the AA generally do a good job of fault diagnosis, and as you say that this chap had a very thorough check around, I would have thought that he would have found an alternative problem, if there was one. It may well be cheaper to have your existing ECU tested, and if required, repaired. If you search for something like 'Automotive ECU Repairers (UK)', you will find people who will undertake this work - Be sure to put the 'UK' in though, or you might find that you are dealing with someone overseas. A alternative might be to have a local Auto Electrician take a look at it for you, but of course, you would have to pay for their services. - If you do take this rout, try and find someone who is recommended. Regards
  37. 1 point
    Make sure in gear and chock the front wheels if you do this. There's no handbrake on a rear wheel to stop it rolling away
  38. 1 point
    Arb or arb mount, rear axel from the middle and get both wheels at the same time, use axel stands where the axel mounts the chassis to be safe Be careful jacking from the arb or mounts as it can slip off sudenly
  39. 1 point
    Rear axle is strong. Rear beam mount point. At the front drive or roll car onto a plank to give you clearance for the jack. Consider a low entry jack (eg Clarke) if you intend doing lots of front end work. Draper do an inflatable bag jack. You might want to invest in one for puncture underway. No good when engine does not work as driven by exhaust gases! And never rely only on a jack if any part of you will be under the car like a dropped wheel nut - retrieve it with a stick. . Get some axle stands. 1 to 2 tonne rating is fine for a little Polo.
  40. 1 point
    Well, time for an update on this. In July 2018 JC contacted me asking if I wanted to buy this saloon. I was hesitant at first just because I know how much work JC has put into this car and I knew I'd want to change a few things if it were mine. But I've always wanted a saloon, I've always wanted to try bike carbs and I've wanted another mk2 since my last one died of tin worm. So it wasn't long until I said yes and we got the ball rolling to transfer ownership to myself. In November JC became an absolute legend in my eyes by driving this car all the way up to Peterhead to deliver it to me. I have never had that before and I doubt it will ever happen again. Anyway this was how the car was delivered to me. 20181116_084525 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr 20181116_084539 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr First thing I had to do, fix the handbrake that broke on the way up the road. Was nice and easy, just the cable had snapped. Luckily a new one was already and waiting in the car to be installed. 20181117_125411 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr 20181117_125407 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Next on the list and first of the major changes to the car, the wheels. I liked the Wolfrace Anniversary wheels, but I just didn't think they suited this car. Mainly due to the size of them. So on went a set of wheels I felt were a better size and period appropriate. A set of 13x6 BBS Mahles. I personally think they transform the look of the car. 20181117_144933 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Keeping with the wheel theme I decided to change the steering wheel for something a little different but again hopefully in keeping with the period of the car. Standard: 20181128_092130 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Mountney: 20181128_093618 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr The Mountney not only looks great in my opinion but also feels much better than the original. It is thicker and has a slightly smaller diameter which I think gives the steering a more positive feel. Now onto a running issue, which I was a little scared of at first. JC mentioned that the car didn't seem to like cruising at much above 65, but it would get there fine. So I'm thinking it is maybe a combination of the big wheels, the 8P gearbox and since it has been sitting a while the carbs might need a clean. After changing the wheels to the 13s (which in effect geared the car down) it still didn't like going above 65 on the speedo (probably closer to 60 on these wheels) and if I gave it the beans in 2nd it would fall flat on it's face in 3rd as if it had run out of fuel. Feeling a little out of my depth having never touch a set of carbs I dived right in. 20181116_084501 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr On the advice of @Cymro I removed the little cone filters and stripped the carbs down. To my surprise the carbs were spotless inside, so that meant I could narrow the issue down to one culprit, the fuel delivery. This was the fuel line setup I took off the car. IMG-20181212-WA0015 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr And this (excuse the drawing marks) is how I was going to attempt to improve the issue. 20181212_161955 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr This was the end result. I have spun the fuel pump round 180° and taken a good 6ft in total out of the fuel line that was in the engine bay. Plus the fuel now has a more direct route to the carbs instead of going through quite a few Ts and elbows. 20181213_124639 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr To my surprise...this worked!! Absolutely transformed how the car drove, completely. It will now happily cruise at 90...err 70 without any hesitation and I can give it the beans to the top of every gear without any feeling the car is being starved of fuel. After that the car spent the next few days in this position as I fitted a new exhaust and chased down about 100 cracks and pin holes in the eBay manifold. 20181217_115659 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Once the exhaust was sorted with about 3kg of welding wire, well I say sorted it is relatively leak free now but I'm still not happy with the sound, I decided to give the car a new face to start 2019 with. I swapped out the smoked indicator and side repeaters in favour of standard orange units and also fitted a single lamp grill. 20181230_113857 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr 20181230_113909 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Since these photos were taken I have been using the car as a daily and my have I enjoyed doing so! People say bike carbs are unreliable and a nightmare in the winter? My experience of them since the fuel delivery fix has been amazing, the car starts without issue, is happy to set off immediately and is an absolute joy to drive about in. I think the car could do with a shorter gearbox and slightly bigger tyres on the wheels to really finish it off. I should have an 8N gearbox heading my way soon and I plan on putting some 175/60/13 Yoko A539 tyres on the wheels after next pay day. Again I must say a big thanks to @Retrotub for selling my this car and delivering it. Also I feel I have to apologise as I have come away from your intended project/look for the car. But hopefully you approve of everything I have done so far and my future plans.
  41. 1 point
    haha oh man it's a been a longggg time since i've been here, 2 cars later I still miss this thing...
  42. 1 point
    Hello! Polo sedan GT oPOLOumel- translated from Russian "run amok" " 1.4TSI engie 125Hp. (CZCA) DSG7
  43. 1 point
    I've had a gt refuse to start due to ecu faliure
  44. 1 point
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