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Showing content with the highest reputation since 21/12/20 in all areas

  1. This is the tool you'll need to put the "joggle" into the repair panel https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carbon-Steel-Joggler-Panel-Flanging-Plier-5mm-Hole-Punch-Tool-Sheet-Metal-Crimp/363091244836?epid=21034145899&hash=item5489ecb724:g:i6IAAOSwWSJeXOOE
    2 points
  2. that's good to hear man! im gonna follow the build! 🙂 thanks!
    1 point
  3. I've taken my carb off without removing inlet manifold a few times. 1/4 ratchet with 10mm socket. Can be done from above. Think i tried from below but it was actually more fiddly. I found putting something on the ground helpful as i dropped the nuts. A lot!!! Tea towel, old t-shirt, anything soft to catch the nuts/washers and stop them rolling.
    1 point
  4. So that part arrived from Germany. Fits beautifully! Has only really pulled the lowest part of the exhaust up by about 3mm. At least it isn't any lower! It's also quiet. Really quiet. Which i'm okay with. Not really noticed any difference in the drive at this point. Still not much go at higher revs in high gear but it does get there and is still quicker than walking. There is a hanger in place on the mid section. Seems to be in decent state too so will leave that alpne. Will look at flexi section next. Never heard back from Bosal or the other places i contacted. But we are me
    1 point
  5. A-M916P Brake Caliper Guide Thread Repair Tool Set VAG VW Vauxhall Ford Seat 5901583514326 | eBay May be available even cheaper than that, with fewer inserts, have a browse. NOTE!: if you have the 239mm discs, this won't be the right thread so don't buy it!
    1 point
  6. Yes. There are various kits available for fixing this, it's an odd thread (M9x 1.25) on the 256mm disc set-up; is that what yours is? Some of these cars have 239mm discs, it's different on those. The simplest fix is a threaded bush that you push into the hole after drilling out the thread, I'll see if i can track down a link.
    1 point
  7. If it's a chain driven engine then make sure you don't leave it in a gear which could result in the engine turning backwards if the handbrake doesn't hold. Can empty the tensioner of oil and lead to chain jumping next time it's started.
    1 point
  8. Is the noise definitely from the front or the back? If you are not sure go for a spin and apply the handbrake whilst moving and see if the noise returns,That should help you to identify if it’s front or back. Is it drums or discs on the rear? My MK2 Breadvan has drums and I had noisy brakes, more like a low growl. I found that brake fluid from a leaking wheel cylinder had got onto the shoes, making the brakes noisy.Also excessive brake dust can do the same, however this is only on drums, you won’t get that issue with discs. it maybe you have the beg
    1 point
  9. The Polo is still going strong, passed its last 2 MOTs with flying colours (next is early Feb) but it is largely the same as my last update here. I did swap back to the 15" BBS wheels as the 16s raised it up a little high. The lack of a proper garage is now my only issue, I have a double car port but this time of year it is a little chilly so there is no progress. My plan for the next year isn't terribly exciting, gearbox & clutch swap so that it is a little easier to drive. Currently the clutch doesn't fully engage, making gear changes hard and sometimes stalls the engine. Th
    1 point
  10. Yeah, the pedal end was the best solution for me - the closer to the pedal's pivot point you achor the cable, the longer travel you'll have. I don't know about the 6n but on earlier cars the pedal is made from 8mm metal wire, and the cable mount can just be bent closer to the hinge, creating a longer pedal travel.
    1 point
  11. yeah i just replaced it with another plasticclip like your pic , not great most of them have caused rust to start , but i doubt its what will finish the car off..guess they were too tight fit when new and chafed some paint off i fitted mine with a dollop of grease
    1 point
  12. Painted again. Inner arch cover refitted. Wheel back on. And the uglier side The inner arch cover is sticking out a bit. I might trim off the corner so it sits more flush and maybe a bead of sealant. There was a captive screw here once upon a time. I imagine two different metals of screw and panel helped the corrosion process along.
    1 point
  13. Not sure if there’s any off the shelf options, I have seen throttle wheels on ITBs which are eccentric so the pedal responsiveness alters, like slow opening for a lot of the travel then quickens up. May be worth looking into having something machined to suit, or retrofitting a larger diameter throttle wheel? I must admit when I first fitted bike carbs I thought this is terrible, how do people live with such a small amount of travel, but I soon got used to it and didn’t feel the need to change it. You could modify it at the pedal end so it goes through a different
    1 point
  14. I guess I may have to change the topic title as there are now half the amount of valves as there were back when this thing last made noises! The car sat off the road for over 4 years before I began a full strip down and rebuild. All of the rust and rot was removed from the shell and has gone through a large amount of transformation. As seen in the previous images the car has now got a 6point cage, stitch welded chassis and a lot of changes to the front end to allow for a removable fibreglass front end. Most of the modifications are in line with enabling me to have great ser
    1 point
  15. They represent whether the signal is an inbound signal from a sensor/power supply etc or an outbound signal to a unit/actuator etc
    1 point
  16. With that tool put the "joggle" in the repair panel and use the hole punch on the existing panel on the car then "puddleweld" through the 5mm holes to hold the repair panel in place, then gradually tack weld along the joint between the repair panel and the original metal
    1 point
  17. I'm going to get this joggler
    1 point
  18. You don’t have to use the full repair panel if it’s not needed - you can cut it down to whatever size is convenient, or covers the rust damage you have. The main thing is to make sure you get all the rust cut out of the original and leave a good, solid, clean edge to weld to. I’ve never used one of the Kel-arc guns, but seem to remember them getting a decent write-up back in the day! Heat is your enemy here. It’s important to tack the repair panel on rather than jumping in and laying down a long line of weld. As it cools the panel will warp in that case. By jumping about laying tac
    1 point
  19. Yeah on the later model 6N1 and the 6N2 they replaced that rubber trim with a plastic one and that has hinged access flaps at the mounting points but all models have the fittings on the roof for the roof bars
    1 point
  20. I'm by no means an expert on this and a welding forum might be best place to ask. Are you planning on doing a butt weld, edge to edge? Then holding it in place while tacking the joint together with a few stitch welds is important. I've seen, but not used, these clamps https://www.frost.co.uk/intergrip-welding-clamps-5pk/ or here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8-Panel-Clamps-Butt-Welding-Clip-Sheet-Alignment-Positioner-Car-Truck-Skin-/303794791555 Other possibility is an edge joggler, for an overlapped joint; basically presses a step in
    1 point
  21. Thought your noise was a whistle not anvil clatter. You'll get pinging under moderately heavy engine load, such as climbing a hill one gear too high. Idle stability can be improved with vacuum controlled extra advance. With closed throttles at idle there's poor cylinder filling.
    1 point
  22. Ordered some grey epoxy 1K primer, not here yet. Got the seam sealer applied in milder weather and covered again with zinc182. It's flipping sticky stuff. Put some on other awkward side (and got some in my hair in the process 🤪. Undersealed that hidden side. This side I'll paint one more time.
    1 point
  23. photos would help ask at some more garages...anything is possible with enough £££ or do what i did and buy a welder and learn how to weld
    1 point
  24. So I've made some progress over the summer... Under carpet floor coated in Rust Buster 121 Epoxy Mastic: Rear beam refurbished, NOS bushings, bearings and all new brake build up: Under floor inc. repairs cleaned up with wire wheel and coated in EM121 plus painted tank and new brake lines: Engine bay striped, coated and tins painted gloss black: Front arches wire wheeled, coated and struts powder coated. New bearings, ARB bushes, NOS control arms, NOS steering rods, NOS brake consumables and refurbed callipers/carrier
    1 point

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