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  1. nige8021

    nige8021

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    dvderlm

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  3. Alvin.32

    Alvin.32

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Showing content with the highest reputation since 10/01/26 in all areas

  1. nige8021
    The coil packs are normally pretty reliable there are resistance checks you can do if you search on here I know I’ve posted the checks a few times but unfortunately my laptop with the information is currently not working The other thing you could check is the sensor grounds mostly Brown/Yellow wires that go to a bolt on the cylinder head
  2. nige8021
    The running and then cutting out sounds like the G28 crankshaft sensor if the camshaft sensor fails the ECU uses the crankshaft sensor as a backup but if that fails or gives erroneous data then the ECU will shut the engine down the only other sensor that would cause a shutdown is the knock sensor You can see the sensor outputs on VCDS in the measuring blocks and also in the Vscope display
  3. nige8021
    1 point
    First Welcome to the forum. Have a look at this https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/vw/all/PO/773/8/825/825000
  4. dvderlm
    new choke cable fitted. It has a solid core so no strands to fray. I did have to drill the bolt wider to 2mm hole.
  5. dvderlm
    Wiring is too simple.. original radio had an on/off switch and buttons.I bridged standby and main power which was probably a mistake. Now trying unplugging the anti theft front panel. It has a GK engine.
  6. Yeti
    Good to hear you've got it going again. I'm in a modern daily, and my old VW fix is a Seat Cordoba Vario TDI (mk4 polo estate basically) - Total shed. I'm just changing the broken pedal box that'sleft the clutch pedal about an inch from the floor since I got it, 2000 miles ago. But it does 60mpg and runs on anything that looks a bit like diesel.
  7. Alvin.32
    Sweet besides the hickups along your way ha sounds fun non the less. I just unplugged the ignition on my radio and it doesn't drain battery, just have to turn on manually. Twin carb sounds cool, what engine did you partner this with?
  8. Alvin.32
    I have come to a conclusion that the issue is electrical, no spark to HT lead but power is everywhere else with new coil pack also. I suspect I should change the distributor as it is likely a faulty hall effect sensor but I cant find the correct distributor part for my polo. Using the built in reg system on auto doc brings up some for £180+ and one on heritage parts centre (£80) I'm not sure it's for my engine. :-/ https://www.heritagepartscentre.com/uk/030905237ax-distributor-for-1-0-1-6.html
  9. Alvin.32
    Sorry long delay, forgot to update. It was the breather pipe to round air filter, I must have forgotten to connect back when repairing filter lid.
  10. MartinG
    Thanks, Yeti. Once bodywork gets bad then it doesn't make economic sense to put it back on the road. If I had a barn to hide it in for now, but I don't. So I've decided I'm going to try and do some good with it instead: https://www.giveacar.co.uk/ Truthfully it's just a car, but it was good work horse... Martin
  11. dvderlm
    VCDS live data of the MAP pressure will tell you that. During warm-up the ECU will be richening and advancing spark timing. There's usually a reference atmosphere barometric sensor in the ECU that should also be checked with just ignition on, then at idle. Could that be dirty/blocked? That's a guess. I'm a carbs guy.
  12. Yak
    I do! Life got in the way of updating this thread lol.... I'll have to get this thread up to date someday soon when the Polo goes back on the road! Here's a pic of what the front end looked like before it went off the road last summer.
  13. LeoWilkie
    Hey everyone, just joined the group and wanted to share my Mk2 Polo Saloon project. This is my 1982 VW Polo Classic C in Gambia Red. It’s a pretty rare one - only a handful of this specific C trim level are still registered in the UK, with just 6 currently on the road according to the latest figures. It’s still running the original 1.1L engine and 4-speed gearbox, but the bay’s been fully cleaned and refreshed with loads of new OEM parts. Only non-original bit under the bonnet is a GPI stainless radiator, adapted to work with the original fan and housing so it still keeps that factory look. The car sits on TA Technix coilovers, 15” Rota BM8s with stretched Nankangs and 10mm MTEC spacers, plus a custom stainless exhaust and a Mk1 Golf GTI duckbill splitter up front. Interior-wise, it’s mostly original with some thoughtful upgrades: Fully sound-deadened using 3mm sound deadening sheets (no added insulation) Hidden Pioneer 4” oval speaker under a shaved OEM grille Dash-mounted Pioneer tweeters A pair of 80s Hitachi SX-103 parcel shelf speakers, which I plan to gut and rebuild with modern Pioneer internals to keep the retro look but with modern sound quality Other touches include a Kamei golf ball gear knob, Wolfsburg drilled window winders, wooden lock pins, and a Momo Heritage wooden steering wheel to finish it off. It’s also had a solid mechanical refresh: Febi Bilstein control arms, rear drums, and wheel bearings Brembo front discs Polybush castor-correcting ARB mounts Next up is a top-end refresh; head gasket, timing belt, water pump, and head skim/rebuild to keep things reliable for the long run. It gets a lot of love wherever it goes, and I’m enjoying slowly building it into something unique while keeping the original spirit intact. Feel free to follow my journey on Instagram: @l3owt_ Looking forward to seeing what everyone else is building!

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