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Showing content with the highest reputation since 15/01/19 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Well, time for an update on this. In July 2018 JC contacted me asking if I wanted to buy this saloon. I was hesitant at first just because I know how much work JC has put into this car and I knew I'd want to change a few things if it were mine. But I've always wanted a saloon, I've always wanted to try bike carbs and I've wanted another mk2 since my last one died of tin worm. So it wasn't long until I said yes and we got the ball rolling to transfer ownership to myself. In November JC became an absolute legend in my eyes by driving this car all the way up to Peterhead to deliver it to me. I have never had that before and I doubt it will ever happen again. Anyway this was how the car was delivered to me. 20181116_084525 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr 20181116_084539 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr First thing I had to do, fix the handbrake that broke on the way up the road. Was nice and easy, just the cable had snapped. Luckily a new one was already and waiting in the car to be installed. 20181117_125411 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr 20181117_125407 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Next on the list and first of the major changes to the car, the wheels. I liked the Wolfrace Anniversary wheels, but I just didn't think they suited this car. Mainly due to the size of them. So on went a set of wheels I felt were a better size and period appropriate. A set of 13x6 BBS Mahles. I personally think they transform the look of the car. 20181117_144933 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Keeping with the wheel theme I decided to change the steering wheel for something a little different but again hopefully in keeping with the period of the car. Standard: 20181128_092130 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Mountney: 20181128_093618 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr The Mountney not only looks great in my opinion but also feels much better than the original. It is thicker and has a slightly smaller diameter which I think gives the steering a more positive feel. Now onto a running issue, which I was a little scared of at first. JC mentioned that the car didn't seem to like cruising at much above 65, but it would get there fine. So I'm thinking it is maybe a combination of the big wheels, the 8P gearbox and since it has been sitting a while the carbs might need a clean. After changing the wheels to the 13s (which in effect geared the car down) it still didn't like going above 65 on the speedo (probably closer to 60 on these wheels) and if I gave it the beans in 2nd it would fall flat on it's face in 3rd as if it had run out of fuel. Feeling a little out of my depth having never touch a set of carbs I dived right in. 20181116_084501 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr On the advice of @Cymro I removed the little cone filters and stripped the carbs down. To my surprise the carbs were spotless inside, so that meant I could narrow the issue down to one culprit, the fuel delivery. This was the fuel line setup I took off the car. IMG-20181212-WA0015 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr And this (excuse the drawing marks) is how I was going to attempt to improve the issue. 20181212_161955 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr This was the end result. I have spun the fuel pump round 180° and taken a good 6ft in total out of the fuel line that was in the engine bay. Plus the fuel now has a more direct route to the carbs instead of going through quite a few Ts and elbows. 20181213_124639 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr To my surprise...this worked!! Absolutely transformed how the car drove, completely. It will now happily cruise at 90...err 70 without any hesitation and I can give it the beans to the top of every gear without any feeling the car is being starved of fuel. After that the car spent the next few days in this position as I fitted a new exhaust and chased down about 100 cracks and pin holes in the eBay manifold. 20181217_115659 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Once the exhaust was sorted with about 3kg of welding wire, well I say sorted it is relatively leak free now but I'm still not happy with the sound, I decided to give the car a new face to start 2019 with. I swapped out the smoked indicator and side repeaters in favour of standard orange units and also fitted a single lamp grill. 20181230_113857 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr 20181230_113909 by Steven Thomson, on Flickr Since these photos were taken I have been using the car as a daily and my have I enjoyed doing so! People say bike carbs are unreliable and a nightmare in the winter? My experience of them since the fuel delivery fix has been amazing, the car starts without issue, is happy to set off immediately and is an absolute joy to drive about in. I think the car could do with a shorter gearbox and slightly bigger tyres on the wheels to really finish it off. I should have an 8N gearbox heading my way soon and I plan on putting some 175/60/13 Yoko A539 tyres on the wheels after next pay day. Again I must say a big thanks to @Retrotub for selling my this car and delivering it. Also I feel I have to apologise as I have come away from your intended project/look for the car. But hopefully you approve of everything I have done so far and my future plans.
  2. 1 point
    if a temp cable fixes it ...i would unwrap the loom and take a better look , as loads of browns are all crimped into one up near the turret then goes to the battery , so if there was an issue with one then all could be effected , damaged wires could still be enough for a sensor or small load but not enough for the coil wouldnt be the end of the world to repair it all properly
  3. 1 point
    to test the hall sender ...remove the dizzy but leave the connector on , ign on and turn the rotor arm the pumps should prime
  4. 1 point
    No as I cannot take credit for any of the major work on the car, even though I now own it, I didn't build it so I don;t see it as my build if you know what I mean? The brakes are amazing! Literally the best Polo brakes I've ever felt. They actually feel better than my Mk5 Golf.
  5. 1 point
  6. 1 point
    You don't need a twizzle stick suction cup. Rechargeable battery electric drill chuck on the stem. Did it for all 16 Lupo AHW valves.
  7. 1 point
    I know right? I think I'll chance it though - I feel like gasket changing and cleaning things up is within my remit but wouldn't want to mess up valve seating seeing as it would be the first time I would have done a valve job. I think if I had a mate who had done one before handy I'd feel a lot more comfortable with that. One must be mindful of one's limits eh! Plus while I technically do have paste and a spring compressor I don't have one of those little suction tools to spin the valve from the face end
  8. 1 point
    right.. might be worth doing an inlet gasket then for belts n braces ...they often leak worse when cold then seal up as it gets hot , but doesnt explain why the plugs fixed it if its still there after the work , then swap the plug and lead to another cly see if the fault moves
  9. 1 point
    Good work by all and a great story to go with it - it an absolute rarity for a seller to hand deliver a car to another country these days!
  10. 1 point
    But maybe I need bigger chokes. Performance Secrets book suggests Think that should be: cc 6000 --- 7000 -- 8000 -- 9000 -- 10000rpm 1000 23..25, 27..29, 28..33, 30..35, 32..36 1200 27..30, 29..34, 31..36, 33..39, 36..42 1400 29..31, 30..35, 34..39, 36..42, 38..45 1600 31..32, 32..37, 36..42, 38..45, 40..48 And the Weber guide chart with hand-drawn new curve (red)) could be 33 chokes for 7000rpm.
  11. 1 point
    After having my driving licence for about 14 years, I thought it was maybe time to get around to buying a car. Registered in mid '94 it must be one of the last Mk2s. It lived all its life in North-East England til I brought it up to the granite city. 50k miles. The paint is a respray by the previous owner, it's quite nice if you don't look too closely. Runs and drives alright, so I have no plans to do any serious work on the car for the time being, just trying to keep it in shape and replace things as they wear out. Shout out to anyone else running a mk2 in Aberdeen/NE, I know you're out there...
  12. 1 point
    i like these deeper nuts...less chance of rounding them off https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-Brass-Exhaust-Manifold-Nuts-8mm-x-1-25-Pitch-High-Temperature/252951666724?hash=item3ae5182024:m:mZ04WJb8pNKQMEhVvBaC_4g:rk:2:pf:0&var=551977228438
  13. 1 point
    Took me a while to get around to posting this... Steveo3002 you were right, I bought the cardboard hose and it's a perfect fit. Also they send you enough to do 2, so when it fails again in 20 years I'll have the spare. Here's a picture of it looking good as new... shame that you can't say that about anything else in the engine bay. The car"s got more serious problems now, which I'll chat about in my build thread.
  14. 1 point
    your more than half way to changing the cambelt and water pump if its never had one id suggest you undo the mani- downpipe bolts and lift the head off with bolt manifolds, tb etc still on devise a method to hold the camshaft pully while undoing the bolt, you can make up a Y shape peiece of wood with 2 bolts in it to replicate this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Camshaft-Injection-Pump-Sprocket-Pulley-Cam-Holder-Holding-Counterpart-Tool/332465940546?hash=item4d6883a842:g:7tUAAOSwC85cG35G:rk:19:pf:0 have you got the spline tool and a trusty torque wrench? remember to oil the bolt heads /washers when fitting
  15. 1 point
    Tell the truth @Dean, you're actually going to get @nige8021 to 3D print you a Polo GTI aren't you? 😛
  16. 1 point
    Does this help Microscan Alarm.pdf
  17. 1 point
    Good to see you back in breadvan Martin! Looks a very nice one with a wee bit of work.
  18. 1 point
    yeah fit a set of valve stem seals while its off...idealy lapping the valves in at the same time
  19. 1 point
    Few people expressed interest when i posted about how to repair the usual mk3 fault of the snapped rear hanger, there are a few solutions but here is mine. it takes about 2 hrs all in and a tea break Parts needed VW repair panel - 867 803 785 and its only £8.81 + vat (£10.35) 2x 8mm x75 length bolts or similar £2max ( you can go 10mm but i means drilling out more material) middle rear bump stop rubber optional (i missed it out as it does feck all but you can fit it if you like). 2 new back box exhaust rubbers £2max 4x 8mm penny washers £1max Tools Needed a hack saw electric drill + drill bits small, medium then a 8mm (or 10 to match the bolts you bought) angle grinder (quickest way to get the old hooks off) heat gun or hairdryer to melt the underseal. bit of wood to fit in the middle of the hanger to drill it so it doesnt bend a large file and a wee circle file (not essential but saves cutting your fingers or mr MOT mans). old broken hanger on my loon did ok for 18 years - good old VW - but i have heard of them braking long before this and then the cable tie army take over usually. new bits: vw panel, rear exhaust, 2 "O" rings and mid box one and a few long bolts (only need 2 of them) so i got about changing the vw panel as i dont do welding, and prefer uber minimum drilling holes in things. panel before on left and as modified on right. then i grinded off the remaining leg on the car and heat gunned all the underseal on the sides of the original panel, but not on the floor so it remains sealed or you will just open it up to water attack, and then drilled holes through it so it looks like this: (file the edges till they are smooth) then its a case of drill the VW panel to match and file the holes then its a nice push up and bolt through operation (may require some hammer time action! ). I chose to double nut it so its locked and cant go anywhere or vibrate loose : then i put the "O" rubbers in a old tea pot with water and boiled them for about 5 min so they were lovely and soft. then they slide on nicely. and jobs a good un! then just go give it a blast to make sure its not going anywhere and relax for another 18 years! only thing i might do extra is give it a coat of paint and underseal round the panel for a proper job.
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