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  1. Welcome to ClubPolo

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    2. Sign up to the Club Polo Forum - IT'S FREE!!!   (67,437 visits to this link)

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      Being a forum member will allow access to:

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      What's in it for you...
      As a non-member, you already get widespread use of our website and forum, but for just £5.50 a year you could have so much more!
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      Companies must not advertise goods or services anywhere on the site without prior consent.

      If you wish to advertise on the site, please click the link to see the possibilities

      **This is NOT for advertising your cars, if you wish to do that please use the Classifieds.

  2. Club Members Area

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    3. Exclusive Club Members Download Area   (2,961 visits to this link)

      Extracts from 1980's Magazines such as: VWMotoring, BRMotorsport, PerformanceCar.
      Volkswagen Polo Brochures from the early mk1 to the latest model and other Interesting Polo related advertising.
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  3. Technical Forums

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  4. Classified Sections - For Sale, Wanted, Exchange Ads

    1. Classifieds - Our New System   (7,081 visits to this link)

      For Sale, Wanted or Freecycle

      Polo's For Sale | Non Polo's For Sale | Car Parts For Sale | Wanted | Freecycle | Misc (For Sale)
      Links to eBay allowed only if you are the seller!!

    2. Cars Breaking (For Sale)

      Use this area for breaking your car, as this will be easier to keep track of when selling your parts.
      Links to eBay allowed only if you are the seller!!

  5. Members Rides, Projects & Gallery

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  6. Community Discussions & Events

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      The place for open related discussions and chatter.

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      Specialist car insurance scheme with great rates, we share your passion for motoring and offer discounted rates for established car club members.

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  • Posts

    • dvderlm
      With 200 airs AFR log says 13.0 to 11.9 at +0.305psi. Slightly cooler weather so lower ambient pressure I assume. It sounded loud before this swap but it's now a more efficient vroom noise.    Definitely richer as throttle closes from the log. A Porsche tuner says you can use this artifact to work out main jet/air corrector balance.   See the "roll-off" method bottom of this page of performance tuning part 2. Performance Oriented  
    • Bread
      Could also be crud on the carrier rails where the pads slide, or a stuck slide pin or caliper.  Particularly if its been a long time since the last pad change.  If it's only recently started making a noise then I'm hopeful you've caught it in time before something jams up more.   Worth checking the wheel bearings as you have done, usually a bad bearing would give continuous throbbing noise as well as/instead of clunks under braking.   Have you had the rear drums off to check inside them?  Worth a go as it can be very hard to diagnose position.  I once had a wheel bearing noise I swore was rear right, the noise was much louder in that location.... and it was actually front left, some weird acoustic reflection.      
    • Pete1
      No batt light at ignition on usually means a blue wire has broken on its way to the alternator.  Find a bracket on the front face of the gearbox, near the starter motor. Find a two-way connector pair with a blue wire going in and out of each half of the pair, see if that blue wire is broken nearby.  The other wire going through that connector pair may also be broken.   Edit: Depending on engine code, it might actually be a 14 way connector near the main battery negative earth connection to chassis, pin 3 thereof.
    • Adam199
      it's a 1.2 and no battery symbol. The battery looks pretty new, think it was changed 6 months or so before I got the car.
    • steveo3002
      trouble is most of the breaker cars will be just as rusty
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