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By dvderlm · Posted
With 200 airs AFR log says 13.0 to 11.9 at +0.305psi. Slightly cooler weather so lower ambient pressure I assume. It sounded loud before this swap but it's now a more efficient vroom noise. Definitely richer as throttle closes from the log. A Porsche tuner says you can use this artifact to work out main jet/air corrector balance. See the "roll-off" method bottom of this page of performance tuning part 2. Performance Oriented -
By Bread · Posted
Could also be crud on the carrier rails where the pads slide, or a stuck slide pin or caliper. Particularly if its been a long time since the last pad change. If it's only recently started making a noise then I'm hopeful you've caught it in time before something jams up more. Worth checking the wheel bearings as you have done, usually a bad bearing would give continuous throbbing noise as well as/instead of clunks under braking. Have you had the rear drums off to check inside them? Worth a go as it can be very hard to diagnose position. I once had a wheel bearing noise I swore was rear right, the noise was much louder in that location.... and it was actually front left, some weird acoustic reflection. -
By Pete1 · Posted
No batt light at ignition on usually means a blue wire has broken on its way to the alternator. Find a bracket on the front face of the gearbox, near the starter motor. Find a two-way connector pair with a blue wire going in and out of each half of the pair, see if that blue wire is broken nearby. The other wire going through that connector pair may also be broken. Edit: Depending on engine code, it might actually be a 14 way connector near the main battery negative earth connection to chassis, pin 3 thereof. -
By Adam199 · Posted
it's a 1.2 and no battery symbol. The battery looks pretty new, think it was changed 6 months or so before I got the car. -
By steveo3002 · Posted
trouble is most of the breaker cars will be just as rusty
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