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  • Posts

    • foreststu
      So it’s fair to say the SORG inlet manifold isn’t designed to be ergonomic for fitting:   OEM top: 2x inner M8 stud & 2x outer M8 hex bolt. SORG top: no space for a socket or spanner on a hex bolt or nut so I used 4x M8 allen head bolts (narrower round head but still needed some Dremel on the inlet to turn free) which also helped with access.   OEM lower: 4x M8 hex bolt SORG: The shape of the inlet means no bolt can be lined up to go in and no socket would ever reach. The holes in the SORG are M6 not M8 therefore studs normally used to convert M8 to M6 when an M6 has been drilled and tapped to M8 as part of a repair (called repair studs) were needed. 30mm overall length with 15mm M8 seamlessly going to 15mm of M6 thread. Of the four, the inner 2 nuts are easy with a spanner but the outer 2 (even with some of the manifold grinded away) have to be done first being wound on as the manifold is moved into position - there is that little consideration of clearance. This is to the point where we had to create our own tools to do up the two outer nuts, the open spanner was shortened to miss the water pump and the ring spanner was modified to be narrow enough around the left-side outer nut to turn.   So now the manifold was on and I set about fitting the Röhm Motorsport 90 degree trumpets to the carbs. The best trumpets to use are straight and have a section which slides into the carb between the carb body and the Auxiliary Venturi, then fixed in place with 2 small metal tabs on the 2 M6 studs. An alternative is to fit a thin tube piece between the carb body and the Auxiliary Venturi and a trumpet that fits flush with the carb face using a gasket. I have limited space in the stock engine bay and wanted easy access for the Sychrometer on each so opted for 90 degree angled, also as with 895cc performance isn’t top of the pile. These 90 degree trumpets fit flush to the face but also block the possibility of getting a nut on the top M6 stud. They came with some M6 allen head bolts but the carb body prevented these lining up to start so I removed the stock upper M6 studs and used 20mm M6 grub screws on the top with the usual M6 nylocks on the bottom. The 90 degree trumpets also block the hole (1 per carb) that allows air into the Main/Idle Jet chamber. Some people have got around this by drilling a couple of holes in the brass cap over these jets but I opted to Dremel out a scoop out of the trumpet and cut the same out of the gasket so air could enter the designed hole.   Everything was then bolted up and I “zero’d” the settings with the air bleed screws all the way in and the mixture screws 1.5 turns out (for made in Spain DCOE, if you have made in Italy start 0.5 turns out as the needle profile is different). The carbs and inlet had previously been mounted on a 1990’s Formula Vee open top single seat racer running a 1.3L VW Small Block so I’d changed some of the hard-tuning brass parts not only to match the 895cc engine but also to lower the peak power revs from 7500 to 6500: Main venturi: 24 (taken from Weber chart and the smallest they make) Main Jet: four times 24 so 100 Air corrector: Main+50 so 150 Idle Jet: 40F9 (smallest I could find made sense given 24 Venturi was smallest they make) Pump Jet: 30 (again smallest I could find) Spill Jet: kept original 50 (translates to 50% and seems pretty forgiving) Needle Valve: kept original 150 (again seems forgiving) Emulsion Tube: kept original F11 (another all-rounder)   Initial idle was OK. I set the butterfly position using the Idle Speed Screw by looking though the Progression Holes on the linkage actuated carb so they were just closed then matched this on the other carb using the Balance Screw. I then opened the Mixture Screw until 1/4 turns didn’t make it any smoother. Then I used a Synchrometer to check barrels 2 & 3 and then 1&2 and 3&4. I had one difference between 1&2 which I corrected by increasing the trumpet air velocity by opening the Air Bleed Screw on the slower carb which allows the passage of additional air past that butterfly. You will also see from the photo that I've currently retained the vacuum advance dizzy. Each barrel has a vacuum port usually capped off with a brass plug. Weber make two hose attachments for these, a 3mm opening to unable the use of a 4-way manometer tuning device and a 0.8mm opening to give a vacuum indication suitable for the vac advance dizzy. A lot of forum posts say just ignore the vac advance as its just for economy or go to electric ignition which I may do but for now I had the ports so I thought I'd use them.   Idle seemed a bit fast but OK. I’ve got the Idle Speed screw all the way out and so I think perhaps the standard idle air feed is a little much for the 895cc hence the slightly faster running. I’ve matched the Mixture Screws to the air flow so whilst fast it is smooth. Either way that was enough for this weekend so I just took some photos…   To finish off the weekend I fitted the carb trumpet socks which involved opening up the two holes under each one to 65mm then stretching them over. It'll keep leaves etc out and actually sounds better on idle with them on.
    • Yeti
      I'm getting 191998135 as the part number for the bolts/fitting kit, there's a few on ebay, or vwheritage could be worth a try.   The grills are normally ok with a few tabs missing, or you can ninja a couple of cable ties in if you're not too bothered about perfection. 
    • Zero_Foxtrot
      Hi all,   First off, if anybody knows how I can create a 'my car only' thread to dump the many questions I come up with in so i'm not pestering everyone then I'd appreciate that! I'm having a real problem removing the spotlights on my MK2 Polo. The mounting screws have seized solid and will likely need cutting off. This means im gunna need new ones but I can't for the life in me find any anywhere on the internet! I've also discovered (during the course of pulling the grille to get to the spotlights) that a previous owner has broken some clips on the actual grille, there are some trim clips missing, and the headlight adjustment screws have no backs on so they're free to move back and forward at will! No permanent alignment as a result, madness... I appreciate your patience, I've never worked on a car before and have chosen this Mk2 to teach myself from the ground up, so I'm on a pretty steep learning curve at the minute. Thanks!
    • steveo3002
      £95 !!!   
    • Grimmad-mike
      Hi, guys girls.   Name: Michael Barlow-Kingston Age: 29 Location: Lutterworth Polo owner, Red 1991 Polo CL Coupe Previous car history: corsa, hyundai coupe, swift, astra, a3, rx8, 406, celica, clio, lexus gs 300, megane coupe. Hobbies/interests: mountain biking, kayaking, stock car racing. Occupation: hgv driver How did you hear about us?: google
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