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  1. Past hour
  2. steveo3002

    Engine idles down and cuts out

    steveo3002 replied to kiran_182's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust

    so was this a running gt that youve just changed the engine over?
  3. Today
  4. feeblington
    Hello. Just to answer a few things. Dont worry i wouldnt pull from the cable..only the boot. 🙂 ive just had the cover off swapped the leads and it seems alot better. No unspent fuel smell. Ill update after ive drivin it but idle sounds tons better. i dont know where id be without you peeps. huge shoutout 🙂 Edit. Dvderlm. Yes exactly like that 🙂
  5. dvderlm
    Only pull the boot, not the cable if you can avoid it.
  6. kiran_182

    Engine idles down and cuts out

    kiran_182 replied to kiran_182's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust

    Yeah ive already wound the idle out advanced the dizzy and to see what happens. Used all my little tricks and not happy with running it this way
  7. dvderlm
    Oh sorry my mistake saying no tools. Like this? Those 4 bolts should undo. looks like M6 Allen key. No - inner multipoint (Torx T25 or T30?) Part 30 on here only 16mm long, watch out they don't fall down in engine bay as you unscrew. https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/polo+derby+vento-ind/po/2001-240/1/103-103040/
  8. caretakerplus

    Side Repeater Indicators not working

    caretakerplus replied to D3GGZY's topic in ICE, Electrical and Lighting

    Welcome to the Forum. It isn't unknown for new bulbs (even batches of new bulbs) to be faulty - Before you go any further, it might be worth checking that the new bulbs actually work (put them in another lamp maybe.) If the front and rear indicator lights are working OK as you say, then the problem has to be local to the side repeater lamps - it could be lack of feed to them, or it may be down to poor earth connections at the lamps - I could be corroded bulb holders that are preventing them from working. Suggest that you make a visual inspection and, if still no success, use a multimeter (doesn't have to be expensive) to check for battery voltage at the bulb holders, using some clean metal (the engine may be) as the earth. If you get battery voltage when the meter is connected between the live feed and the clean earth, but NOT when connected between the live feed and the lamps own earth connection, then the earth connection is causing the problem. NOTE: When there is high resistance in a circuit (poor connections, corrosion or dirt) it is quite possible that you can find battery voltage at a point that you are testing, BUT, due to the high resistance, there is not enough CURRENT flowing to light the bulb. Regards
  9. feeblington
    Hey. Sorry Its a 2001 6n2 1.4 16v se Ive pulled out ht leads to find one full of rust and another the lead actually came clean out of the spark plug boot. Gunna swap them when i get a moment in the rain. How do i chsnge these. Looks like i have to remove the plastic engine cover thing.? Edit. Ive contact cleaned them before i swap the leads. Still smells of fuel by exhaust and running tad wierd
  10. steveo3002

    Engine idles down and cuts out

    steveo3002 replied to kiran_182's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust

    assume youre aware of how to set up a gt ? ajust the idle and timing etc?
  11. caretakerplus

    More problems with engine management light

    caretakerplus replied to feeblington's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust

    There seems to be a bit of misunderstanding about the actual model that you have - Could you clarify that for future posts, it would help prevent us giving you the wrong information. If you do change the plug leads, I would suggest that you change them one-at-a-time in order to prevent any mix up. Regards
  12. caretakerplus
    I always worry about the title 'Stretch Bolts', as if ALL bolts don't stretch when they are tightened - if they didn't, the would become loose! All steels have a known tensile strength. When they are stretched (by tightening in the case of a bolt - or as a sample in a tensile testing machine) - providing that their limit of elasticity is not exceeded, they will return to their original length once the load is removed. Once the limit of elasticity is reached, the metal will start what is referred to as 'necking' (more easily understood if it were called 'waisting', as it forms a waist,) if further load is applied, the metal will break apart at the neck. To increase the tensile strength of steel, various combinations of additives are included eg. Carbon; Chromium; Molybdenum; Nickel; Phosphorus and Vanadium. For more information on this subject, see 'Young's Modulus of Elasticity.' Regards
  13. nige8021
    There is no distributor on a 6N2 it's a coil pack, but they can suffer with poor contact between the ignition amplifier on the top of the actual coil unit
  14. Mclovin
    Max maybe you should of taken lessons from toby?
  15. MaxGT
    Hahahaha
  16. kiran_182

    Engine idles down and cuts out

    kiran_182 replied to kiran_182's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust

    Its chugs as it idles low so electrical is probably right. Ill try it with the lambda un plugged and see
  17. Mclovin
    How strange, I was actually thinking about you yesterday. Not sure exactly how my thought process led to it (probably due to being on here recently and reading some old threads), but I found myself laughing at us being over taken by that woman in your polo when picking up some polo parts locally 😂 Good to see you are still alive 👍
  18. damunk
    done. might have just under done it but more or less did 2 lots of 90 degrees after 60nm
  19. damunk
    well just checked old ones and they were 8.8 so here goes. lol
  20. steveo3002
    ive had a few feel funny...what can you do though ? just wang em up as per the instructions and deal with it if one snaps , cant leave em a bit loose can you
  21. damunk
    just tightned the head bolts in proper sequence to 40nm, then to 60nm, then 90 degrees. just before doing the final 90 degrees noticed the bolts are 8.8 do stretch bolts have higher nm rating because a standard m11 bolt should be around 70nm if it's rated 8.8 they are genuine ajusa head bolts for AFH. and really feel they won't take another 90 degrees.
  22. dvderlm
    Contact cleaner? A metal needle file or fine emery cloth / very fine sandpaper.
  23. feeblington
    Service history is good. Logbook and wad of receipts. Cars clean as hell aswell. Im gna get some contaxt cleaner and new ht leads. Hopefully its not todo with thr distribtor. Im still bit clueless but learning!
  24. steveo3002

    Engine idles down and cuts out

    steveo3002 replied to kiran_182's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust

    you can unplug the o2 to prove it...should run well without one also it wont come into play until the engine is warm ...
  25. JoeUK
    As suggested above, my last lambda resulted in similar symptoms of the idle degrading after a few minutes as it all starts to warm up. Can always test it, multimeter readings are deffinately on here somewhere. Same for the temp sensor, theres a range of resistance or voltage readings over a range of temperatures. Mine idled like crap as the ECU began using the faulty sensors signal. More recently had a worsening fuel leak on one of the rubber pipes which in the beginning I'd get a few miles then it would start chugging then eventually cut out, throttle would do nothing to help obviously. The car was said to be getting a little filler neck rot on the last mot so fuel smell wasn't surprising untill it stank, by that point it wouldn't run at all though, been in the garage waiting for time to put the fuel tank in but fixed the leak and it runs pretty damn well now. Goodluck
  26. JohnLJr

    1987 polo classico wont idle

    JohnLJr replied to JohnLJr's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust

    good morning, its been awhile, i installed the flag back in april , after it ran fine. i drove it for 4 months then the car started to act up again, when i have minimum throttle it felt like i was sputtering and then catching s[uttering and catching, when i put in neutral at anytime it would die, i removed the carbs again and saw the fairy new flag and i do see some cracking but not as bad as the old one. i am guessing the flange can be damaged again? you think i tightened the bolts on the carb too tight and caused it to crack over time?
  27. D3GGZY
    Hello, it’s a 6n2 1.4 petrol, also worth mentioning I have checked the fuse, and all is well with with 😕
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