This stream auto-updates
- Yesterday
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Well I sold it and now I've bought it back! Needs a bit of welding done because it was put on air 😩 But not long and it'll be back on the road and the restoration will continue 😁 Luckily the previous work I had done has held up well! Needs a machine polish to get it back up to scratch though.
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Camera on phone is pants so excuise the poor pics.
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Like this stuff? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Water-Finding-Detects-harmful-Heating/dp/B00NU6C036 That's safer than siphoning out bottom of tank and checking whether small quantity will burn.
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Well I'm slightly wrong about the in-pipe unleaded filler neck sprung flap keeping damp air out. Primary purpose is anti-static, it wipes and connects with nozzle. Secondary purpose is air barrier between that flap and fuel cap. It's an expansion chamber to avoid people brimming the tank. Since some fuel tank caps are vented. To stop fuel coming out around corners with nearly full tank. It's not an anti-gravity valve for overturned car or anti-syphon protection by design which is achieved with other mechanisms, often plastic.
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- OLOP2N6
- Paulgreen84
Are you updating the thread as said please Paul? Check I have tried contacting you thanks
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2000 6n2 16v 1.4 SE Blue + Recaros
OLOP2N6 replied to Paulgreen84's topic in Cars Breaking (For Sale)
Hi. Totally new on here so not sure how things work ... Am interested in the 6n2 you have, possibly whole car . prob quicker to text me and I call you back 07399 265 177. Cheers -
Please can anyone tell me if the parcel shelf for a pre-facelift Breadvan is the same as that for the facelift model?
- Last week
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VW Polo Mk2F 1994 1.3 5 Speed Genesis 45K Breaking
1980 replied to PCG's topic in Cars Breaking (For Sale)
All sorted now buddy, Cheers anyway -
Identifying black foam blowimg through air vents
PoloMM replied to PoloMM's topic in Bodywork, Interior and Trim
Yes that sounds like it. I have the Haynes manual so will investigate how to access the heater box. -
I have no idea if it is still used, but petrol stations used to check their storage tanks for water contamination with a paste, supplied by the oil company. This green paste was applied to the end of the tank dip stick, the dipstick placed in the tank and immediately pulled back out. Any water contamination would turn the green paste pink. Regards
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G40 conversion - no spark/fuel
caretakerplus replied to caskill's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
This won't help you one little bit - but it may be of interest. The rotor arm NEVER makes contact with the segments in the cap - The spark jumps the gap, which accounts for the crud that builds up on both surfaces. If the rotor did manage to contact a cap segment, it would most likely shatter the cap. Regards -
G40 conversion - no spark/fuel
caskill replied to caskill's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
When I built the engine I timed the cam up on the vernier pulley using a clock gauge and crank angle gauge so that side of it is definitely spot on -
G40 conversion - no spark/fuel
steveo3002 replied to caskill's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
possibly a tooth out on the cam ...line it up and post a photo -
MOT failure if a door does not lock/unlock. If there was an accident and you needed to get out etc. Just opened the door and all locks worked first time. Then the passenger one started to stick again. WD40 on them all but hasn't shifted the passenger one. The garage had to replace the old lock with a complete new one, but the labour took a long time as it was such a complex, drawn out job getting to it hence the cost. Sorry, I got the cost wrong in my OP. In 2017 the mechanism was £143 + labour £126
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G40 conversion - no spark/fuel
caskill replied to caskill's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
I knew it wasn't right but it was the only way I could get it to run before.. I did this for setting it up HT lead positions anyway and all looked good. -
G40 conversion - no spark/fuel
steveo3002 replied to caskill's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
shouldnt be right at the end of the slot if you turn the crank with a socket you can line up the timing marks on the crank /cam ...when both are lined up the rotor should point at a notch on the dizzy housing , that would be good enough to start and run then fine tune with a strobe light -
does the mot even check if the car locks ? ive never seen them check mine , just that the doors open and close via the handle worst case find somewhere , £400 is robbery ...im guessing the garage is just going to dismantle it and soak in oil so 1-2 hrs for all doors is ample
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G40 conversion - no spark/fuel
caskill replied to caskill's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
Thanks mate will give that a try. the other thing I was thinking was when I had the engine running years ago, I remember the dizzy being hard up on one side of the slots - when ive tried to run it now its been in the middle. Could the coil be trying to fire when the rotor arm isn't in contact with a point on the cap? will try starting it after work with the dizzy in different settings to see if that makes a difference anyway. -
They all stick intermittently. It seems to be the barrel lock that is sticking, not the catches but I will try WD40
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sounds a bit expensive ...are all doors the same ? id see if a couple of good sprays of wd40 or gt85 on the catches makes any difference
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G40 conversion - no spark/fuel
steveo3002 replied to caskill's topic in Engine, Transmission and Exhaust
spi dizzy isnt compatible ...although would run unbolt the dizzy but leave the wires on ...ign on then turn the dizzy by hand , you should hear the fuel pump prime if the hall sender is working -
A couple of years ago we had an MOT failure on one of the door locks of our 2002 1.2 Polo sticking. Unfortunately this cost us £400 to have repaired but since then other locks now intermittently stick. I try with the key in the door as well as the interior door button but the problem gets worse, even the one we had fixed has since started to stick which begs the question is it more electrical then mechanical ? The locks seem to work better when the car has been running a little but the problem does get worse these last few weeks. Don't use the car that much which won't help. Once a week usually. As the MOT is up again next month I don't want to be in the same scenario having to pay again for such an old car with over 100K on the clock, as much as I like the car still. Any advice what this could be please ?
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Hi guys. I'm reasonably new on here - been on club G40 for a good few years tho. Basically I've reshelled my G40 into a breadvan, engine has been fully rebuilt etc. My issue is no spark and the injectors aren't firing. I have fuel pressure at the rail, which as far as I can see means that both the ecu relay and the fuel pump relay are good. I've got 12v at the coil with the ignition on, and I've checked the resistances and theyre all good too (this was a brand new coil 6 years ago and has done ~200 miles). The distributer again was a brand new part just before my G40 died 6 years ago, but I know Hall senders can cause issues so I swapped it out for the known working item from the old 1.0 spi engine, and still no luck. All of this seems to be pointing towards an ecu fault but I'm sure there will be something I'm missing. Anyone on here got any ideas? Help is very much appreciated. Cheers
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poly isnt an upgrade for g40 ones...
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Stopped by the garage after work and took a look. They certainly have the rose joint on the inner portion. A poly replacement for these should snug up the front end quite a bit. Thanks for that bit of info 👍
