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  1. Yesterday
  2. rusty
    Thanks for your help, will report back
  3. dvderlm
    Not really, idle ignition is start of the curve. The static timing advance (so where dizzy is turned), plus any vacuum related advance. http://www.s262612653.websitehome.co.uk/DVAndrews/timing.htm https://www.enginebuildermag.com/2017/09/understanding-ignition-timing-making-maximum-power-means-knowing-science/ Be careful turning dizzy too far clockwise.
  4. rusty
    Magic i'll give that a go tomorrow, by ignition point do you mean initial timing at idle?
  5. dvderlm
    narrowband lambda not much use with carbs. I see 11.5 to 16.2 AFR (and it was 9 to 18 before I sorted it all). Vacuum gauge is best for ignition timing.
  6. dvderlm
    Definitely. If ignition timing curve is wrong you won't get power. Flame front needs to be expanding rapidly to push the piston back down again. I think optimum is 20 degrees after TDC, but ignition point has to be BTDC.
  7. rusty
    Saying that, The ECU could actually be setting the timing to closed throttle/low revs and leaving it there? I'd be surprised if that was the case though. I'll plug it into vcds and see if it'll let me read the ignition timing. Standard Lambdas not likely to be much use in tuning is it? Don't know how wide they range
  8. rusty
    Thats what i meant! I wasnt planning on using the sensors in the first place its only an afterthought. i was more asking whether my pinging/power loss could be caused by the ignition advance as opposed to the more obvious problem of the jets potentially being too small. On a side note i tried to get the original tps out of the throttle a while ago and its pretty tight in there so gave up. I'm not sure its actually a removable part on my engine. The plug is in a completely different location to the throttle shaft so i think it'd be a case of hacking up my stock throttle body, w
  9. dvderlm
    yep, higher engine speed the more before TDC it has to spark because piston is moving faster, but flame propagation is the same. (centrifugal advance) When throttle nearly closed needs upto 15 more as cylinder filling is poor. At higher engine load (wider throttle opening, less vacuum) needs less advance because the cylinder fills faster with ignitable mixture. You don't want extta vac advance at wide throttle, it ll pink. Will the original TPS fit on the bike carbs?
  10. rusty
    Uh oh, could this be just a case of ignition timing rather than lean jetting? AFAIK the ecu will still give an advance map off the hall sender in the dizzy, obviously just less accurate. Pinging is only noticeable at high rpms so am i safe to say that rules out too much advance? The curve should go from less to more advance with engine speed right? So ignition if anything would be too far retarded at the higher rev ranges where it sounds like its pinking
  11. dvderlm
    Sorry, should have noticed the ping post. Ignition too far advanced will pink/det and be low on power. Not enough advance will have poor vacuum and feel unresponsive. Will be high HC with 4gas emissions tester. I found map sensor for Dignition was way still way off with the twin carbs as much lower vac. That might not be the case with motorbike slide carbs,
  12. Charlie Rickard

    Buying a late 1980s Polo

    Charlie Rickard replied to Charlie Rickard's topic in Polo Chat

    Wow! Thanks for a very comprehensive response. I suspected that the hose was not a vital component in the summer, but it’s clear that its absence could cause problems in the winter. Thanks again. I have been seriously considering a 1998 model and am in touch with the owner. Hoping to view after 2nd December. Thanks for all your suggestions. Regards Charlie
  13. Turbobandit
    As long as you take the manifold off and drill and tap you will be fine and cause it’s alumnium it’s quits soft . I’ll let you know how I get on tomorrow mate and hopefully will have some good news . I’ve bought a fuel pressure regulator gunna try that and if not see if I can mount the pump by tank and see if it will pull the fuel through the original pump .
  14. rusty
    Yeah thats what i was thinking, might have to fit some vac takeoffs, tapping holes gives me the absolute fear though. My haynes manual got leaked on in the boot before i fixed my open air so all the useful pages for this have unfortunately turned to paste haha. Interested to see how you get on!
  15. Turbobandit
    Don’t use the vaccum from the brake servo as the vaccum will change every time you brake . I’ve been watching videos on YouTube and googling like mad to find answers and pretty much sure I’ve found them as this aeema to work . If I can get mine running tomorrow on carbs then I’ll let you know how I get on or if you try it let me know what happens . Also in the owners manual it says the TPS only controls Rickover which only leaves the map sensor to Control ignition timing
  16. rusty
    Might try running it off a t piece on the brake servo connection, with a fuel filter before to smooth out any pulsing? Any chance you've found anything relating to this as i'm sure i've read about it before, just cant find it again 🙄
  17. Turbobandit
    I’m not fitting a balance bar mate I’m connecting mine together off the vac take offs and teeing from them to the map sensor . Will do same job as a balance bar . Can’t sit in the back of mine mate as mine is a bit ratty lol . Rear seats removed and bulk head welded in . Matt black slammed to floor on borbet wheels and side exit exhaust . Want the bike carbs on it not to try and help it move a little more hahaha it’s so slow
  18. rusty
    Ah Bollocks that makes a lot of sense, i had the option of getting balanced vacuum lines when i had my manifold made and didn't want to fork out extra at the time. Well done finding a felicia fun though, absolute dream car. Can people really sit in the back of them?
  19. Jim1500

    Buying a late 1980s Polo

    Jim1500 replied to Charlie Rickard's topic in Polo Chat

    There are a few on www.carandclassic.co.uk as well from £500 to almost £4k for a couple of mint low milers. There's a dark blue 1990 country with 50k in need of some TLC that looks like a decent project that wouldn't take much to sort out.
  20. Turbobandit
    This should stop it being so flat and also stop the picking
  21. Turbobandit
    Rusty I’ve been doing some research for mine and I jumped first and bought a vaccum distributor but have since found out if you connect your map sensor to the vaccum of your inlet your ignition will advance. The TPS only controls Tickover . Mine is actually a Skoda felecia fun 1.6 AEE which I’m doing the conversion on . I’ll be connecting the map sensor first hopefully tomorrow I’ll be doing this and get it running .
  22. rusty
    Nope, i'm currently using the stock 6n distributor and ecu, just with all plugs on the manifold/injectors disconnected. Is yours a 6n? I don't think im getting any variable ignition advance with the tps and MAP sensors disconnected, which is why some people use the vacuum ignition from earlier polos.
  23. Turbobandit
    Hey rusty Is your distributor a vaccum type ?
  24. rusty
    Interesting, took it for a further drive today (including very short stretch of motorway,) its WAY down on power and definitely pinging at higher speeds. Wot gives no extra power apart from more noise Doesnt like idling below 900, with the injection system on it only idled at 900 anyway. I have a feeling this is probably part due to balance though. Im 99% certain its not running rich, the exhaust has never smelled of petrol even on full choke, could tell when the old injection system was warming the engine up as it absolutely stank on cold mornings. I'm tempted to drill t
  25. nige8021

    2021 Calendar Entries

    nige8021 replied to kwijibo_coupe's topic in Photo & Video Chat

    The 2021 calendar has been sent to the printers and will be available to pre-order from the shop very soon £9.99 free shipping to UK (overseas will be available) for non members, paid membership will get a discount on this price.
  26. dvderlm
    There's another very small chance possibility for engine speed not slowing. The carbs were already worn enough that needle valve/seat did not seal (about 200,000 miles?). The throttle plate edges might have worn where they touch the barrels, letting too much air past. But it's Honda carbs, so I'd expect really long life. On Webers you can get replacement plates. I have never ever needed to. The fixing screws are steaked, so they cannot fall out, which makes them hard to remove too. You can, in theory, file a chamfer on the correct edges of removed
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