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  1. Yesterday
  2. Paul cavanagh

    Paul cavanagh

    looking to sell rare 1300gt, mechanically and bodily solid.paint not the best but very good car.offers please
  3. Paul cavanagh

    Paul cavanagh

    Hello looking for drivers front door, vgc, for 1998 polo hatch please.
  4. The Only thing the MOT tester will be looking for is there any leaking fluid and are any pipes securely mounted and not fouling any of the steering/suspension/engine, the longer OEM routing is probably a way of not fitting a separate oil cooler for the system and just use the extra pipework to radiate any heat
  5. Thankyou for the suggestion and seems to be a good option. The pipe has split just after the first bit of rubber hose coming from the pump, so wondering about joining onto the steel pipe at either end but there is some concern that a compression fitting might not be upto the job for very long. I also wondered about replacing the whole pipe between the pump and the rack with a flexible pipe. Currently the pipe goes the long way around the engine and it would be a lot shorter to go directly from the pump to the rack but would there be any MOT issues doing this? There must be a reason that the pipe takes the long route? What do you think? Kind regards Phil
  6. If you can get a mobile hydraulic pipe company like https://www.pirtek.co.uk/ they might be able to cut out the area with the leak and fit a new flexy or solid pipe, probably cheaper and quicker than ripping out the whole pipework
  7. SherryBerg ? have a clone 103/252 carb. https://www.ebay.com/itm/carburettor-replace-weber-30-32-DMTR-103-252-carburetor-for-lancia-y10-turbo-226/324073698562 But it shows a vacuum operated secondary which is surely bonkers. No valve on the secondary inlet either. Maybe it is just putting boost pressure air into the fuel bowl. That could work with a rising rate fuel pressure regulator. Cause how could you have two needle valves?
  8. Bit of Dremel diamond saw and filing and it fits like a glove Can't decide whether to glue it to the neoprene or to glue a light wide compression spring to the top of the boot. Now there's just finding out how and when the second fuel inlet valve solenoid is activated. It is capped off here for none boost operation. The red wire activates to open. The main inlet and return also has a cut-off solenoid valve. I'm imagining a big red switch on the dashboard to enable and cut power.
  9. Years a go, I asked about a leak that filled the driver's side rear footwell with no sign of wet in the driver's footwell. Water could be up to 12mm deep. Since been covered by a tarpaulin for a long time it has not happened. Could this be water coming from the boot?
  10. Good morning to you all and as well as you can be in these times I hope. My '97 Polo has sprung a leak on the power steering hose in the area that runs under the radiator. Ironically this pipe was replaced a year ago with one off my scrapped polo - 3 months older and a very long story. The pipe had previously burst where it passes the suspension strut. I know it's a bu****er to get off and the chap at the garage did the replacement and it took him over 2 hours. So, hoping not to take the pipe off if it can be avoided. Access to the are of the leak looks to be good, but I cannot tell if the leak is the metal pipe, the join to the rubber pipe or the rubber pipe itself as there is protective foil etc over everything there. Will investigate further of course. Can removing the pipe be avoided and what suggestions do you have please? Many thanks Phil
  11. Last week
  12. bastibum

    Cigarette lighter replacement

    You can test it. Try the cig lighter with the ignition off. My USB port also lights up, but only with the ignition on. If it has a seperate positive connector for the lighting you should connect it to the same circuit. I actually connected my positive to the positive wire of my rear defroster, so I can flick the defroster switch and be 100% sure it doesn't dain the battery. My defroster doesn't do anything though 🙂 , might get too hot when you run it for too long
  13. Noah 89 breadvan

    Cigarette lighter replacement

    Hey. I want to convert my cig lighter to a USB port. Curious whether the power to it is allways on or only when the ignition is on. I’m not sure whether to get ones with lights or a voltmeter on as I don’t want to drain battery when not in use. thanks!
  14. I've just cured another leak. My tailgate seal had gone, meaning water was sat on the metal lip underneath. The lip then rusted and water seeped into the boot through the seam of this lip. https://photos.app.goo.gl/khaT3JRoYuq6WjU97 I sanded the lip back, treated the rust, new seam sealer (that's what is being applied in the picture), paint and replacement seal and she's dry in there. It took me ages to find the source of the leak, but I'm glad I did. It's something else to check when looking at a wet boot anyway.
  15. dvderlm

    Weber Woes - DMTL on Mk2

    What is the float height? 7mm from float to gasket just pushing on needle valve I think. (for about 18mm droop) You have 75---[185/F30/120]---[155/F22/100]---50 (and the bridge to venturi in barrel with choke flap heads to the side with 50 idle). You intend to try 75---[185/F30/120]---[155/F22/105]---50. Okay. If that improves down low enough then try bigger secondary main like 125 or 127 or 130. 75---[185/F30/125]---[155/F22/105]---50 If 105 doesn't help enough try 110 primary main. if still poor transition check the diaphragm and spring of the pump. If diaphragm has split it won't pump sufficient volume. If spring is broken it won't refill enough after each squirt. To test pump you can place carb over a container with fuel in the well and operate throttle lever 10 times, weigh or measure the fuel and see if it matches the spec. (a Pierburg 2e3 delivers 10 to 11 ml in 10 strokes through a 0.3mm jet so each squirt is quite long duration to overcome weakness as secondary opens. DMTL usually have 40 or 45 pump jet so squirt duration is shorter than Pierburg, but it should be much the same volume of fuel. On racing Webers you can adjust how much is returned rather than squirted with a bleed and pick different rod/spring strengths for greater volumes. It has to last to cover the drop in vacuum as secondary opens. Make sure to measure the rod length of pump diaphragm if you do need a replacement. Too long and it won't fit. There's also a ball bearing in the pump jet as a simple valve. If it does not rattle when removed and gently shaken you need a new pump jet. I ended up using F33 emulsions in both stages as I went to ever larger venturis . These are thin walled so have more reserve.
  16. caretakerplus

    Car Jerking

    Welcome to the Forum. I have to say that it is difficult to decide what is going on with your car. First of all, this 'clunk' - Are you saying that it no longer 'clunks'? - If it does 'clunk', does it do so without the engine running? If so, it could well be the clutch RELEASE mechanism - possibly NOT the clutch itself. Now about the 'jerking' - this could be down to quite a few things, but if the car is anything like due for a FULL service, that may well sort out your problem. The damaged CV boots themselves will not cause the jerking, BUT if they have been damaged for some time and the grease contained within them has leaked out (with the possibility of water getting in) the CV joints themselves could be causing problems. By the way, its never a good idea to 'Red Line' an engine, particularly when it has done a fair few miles - That's why the line is RED! Regards
  17. yellowstripe

    mk2 caddy 1.9sdi heater stuck on hot

    Right, sort of fixed it...good enough for my purposes anyway. Having taken the fascia off there were obvious signs of previous bodgery - missing screws, cable ties etc. and the cable itself (green as it happens) was found to be loose. The plastic at the back of the controls must have broken previously - someone had attempted a repair with a jubilee clip. I've re-routed the cable so that it can be adjusted manually from inside the cabin. Unfortunately reassembly was a slightly disappointing experience as various bits of plastic disintegrated as soon as i touched them. Although I improved on some of the previous bodges everything the lower row of switches has ended up a little loose with only one screw holding it in place. Wondering whether it's worth replacing the dash fascia or whether anything secondhand is likely to be just as rubbish... I probably won't get round to it though - the more important next job is to find out why the temperature gauge isn't working. Hoping it's just the sender!
  18. caretakerplus

    Polo Classic (6kn)

    Glad that you have the problem sorted out. Regards
  19. anessen

    Weber Woes - DMTL on Mk2

    So far, I have tried the following things: Bigger idle 1 and idle 2 jets. Going up to 50 on the primary side has enabled me to have the mixture screw in a more sensible position (it's around 2 turns iirc). After that, I tried adding a larger secondary idle too. The larger secondary idle doesn't seem to have done much. Swapping the main stacks around (1 in 2, 2 in 1) fixed the hesitation issues at low RPM, but made opening up the second stage much worse. So to be clear, with this set up (as looking at the carb from the front): 75---[185/F30/120]---[155/F22/100]---50 I get a good mixture screw, slight hesitation down low, a lot of hesitation on opening the second stage throttle, and weak power between 2k - 3.5k. With this: 75---[155/F22/100]---[185/F30/120]---50 I get a good mixture screw, no hesitation down low, very strong hestiation/misfire when opening second stage, and decent power between 2k-3.5k. I verified the engine timing, too. I'm going to return the stacks to where they should be, obviously. At the moment, I am thinking of trying a larger primary main jet tomorrow. I have a 105 in my stash. I don't know what to do about the secondary side issues.
  20. leo_6000

    Polo Classic (6kn)

    Hello, I Tested the VAG-COM in my car and got it read the parameters of sensors in real time and fault codes. the lambda sensor was in trouble. With the device i finnaly solved my problem. I Can´t change parameters or reset adaptive parameters in my car, but I believe it is because the ECU is old. My engine was rectified to primary measure three weeks ago, the car is very good now. follow one picture of my car:.
  21. narbar_123

    2011 Polo 1.2 TDI SE Clutch Costs

    Is this a hard job to do your self?? Would the subframe have to be dropped???
  22. Danno707

    Bluetooth v TPK music

    Again thx Nige. Took apart my aerial and all was fine, no corrosion or damage. Im gonna invest in a aerial signal booster for the radio. hope it helps me
  23. dvderlm

    Carb swap questions

    Polo 1.043 HZ Weber TL conversion kit 15270752 (replaces 1B3 or TLA) Fast-idle speed . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1200 rpm ? Float height . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27.25 ±0.25 mm Venturi diameter . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23 mm Main jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 102 Air correction jet . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 Aux fuel . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30 Emulsion . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .F96 Idle speed 800rpm at 1.5 to 2.5% CO
  24. Awesome. That's good to hear. And I'm glad you agree on the diagnosis. It makes sense to me but the fact you see it that way too makes me much more confident. Thank you kindly. I'm in deepest darkest Norfolk: where "next day delivery" for your new expansion tank means you'll see it on Monday. It's still 1983 here. Hahaha. Nowhere near as glamorous or sophisticated as Oxford.
  25. All good there, battery is fully charged, and alternator is working well. Yep, drive with confidence. Whereabouts in England are you?
  26. Intrigue beat me and I've delayed dinner to go out with the multi-meter: Before starting: 12.69V Running: 14.48V Afterwards: 13.01V Is this fluctuation telling us anything? To me it sounds about right - but this could be where I'm limited by my working with AC current. Also, I haven't been driving about in it for the past few days in case my diagnosis is wrong. But, with what's been said here, would you agree the problem is the probes in the tank and that it's ok to drive while I wait for the new tank? I'm happy my temp gauge works because I got my IR thermometer out and it's giving a similar reading. So I figure as long as I have water in the tank and the temp gauge is on the 90 mark, it's all good? I suppose the resistor trick would tell us true. My other theory was water pump, but that wouldn't bring on the warning light and I don't think it was actually overheating anyhow. It has to be the tank probes, right?
  27. New tank ordered. Thank you kindly. The other issues might be a strange coincidence. I just thought it was worth mentioning as I could well understand that the problem could be some sort of electrical "confusion", for want of a better term. The central locking only works on two doors and I don't open the passenger window because the first time I did I couldn't shut it for three days. There's something odd going on but I don't get it. Or it could just be tired. I'll check the battery voltages later on. What am I looking for and what can I learn? I'm a domestic electrician by trade and car electrics is a very different beast, but it's interesting. Old polo gets a run out most days, usually only a handful of miles locally as I visit customers for work. And then a couple of 50 mile round trips each weekend. She works enough, but not too hard. And she usually runs like a dream. Albeit with the aforementioned electrical quirks.
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