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Racehunter

Central Locking & Electric Windows Problem - Common?

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Racehunter

Firstly, my apologies as this problem is posted on another forum, however I am desperate to fix the issue.

 

My son has recently purchased his first car, a 2007 MY 1.4 Polo 5 door with low miles and full history. It’s a really nice vehicle, and drives extremely well, so much so that it belies its age. Just one small mark to the rear N/S quarter panel for me to sort. Anyway, he decided that he 'needed' to have a replacement radio to allow for Apple Car Play, so purchased a head unit and that was added to my list of jobs!

Having left the car with me for completion of the work, he came back last weekend to collect it, only to find that there is a problem with central locking and electric window operation. It doesn't have remote C/L just 'key in slot' activation. All was well at the time the car was purchased, so this is something that has happened since then. I have no idea if the work I did has any bearing on this, but do actually doubt it as all I have done is remove and refit the N/S rear lamp cluster and remove OEM radio and fit a (cheap Chinese) double din item. I have obviously searched the forums for information and am amazed at how many VW vehicles have similar issues, but many different answers. The full symptom list from my fault appraisal is:

 

  •   Only drivers door unlocks from that side with key, but interior light doesn’t come on.

  •              If all doors unlocked, only drivers door locks from drivers side with key and no alarm LED.
  •              All doors unlock from passenger side with key and interior light comes on
  •              All doors lock from passenger side, alarm LED on drivers side lock button flashes and interior light goes out.
  •              All doors lock and unlock using internal button on drivers door card
  •              Electric windows do not operate from drivers door switches
  •              Passenger electric window operates from passenger side switch

 

 

I have checked fuses and connections/wiring between drivers door and 'A' post and found nothing. This left me thinking it might be either the door lock (is it a master to the system?) or the CCU, however  I decided to take the door card off again and have another good look at the cables and connectors. Now here is the strange thing. After removing both connector blocks from the electric window unit (drivers side) then clicking back in, the windows and central locking started working again. I then opened and closed the door (as in swing open) a number of times and the electrics returned to their 'less than perfect' functioning. Off came the connector blocks again and as soon as they clicked back into place, windows and doors worked correctly. This seems to be a cycle its now stuck in unfortunately so definitely not a permanent fix.

My thoughts are with a) a loose connector in the block (it seems to be the larger of the 2 blocks that affects the outcome), b) a problem with the board onto which the male connector terminals are attached to, or c) a fragile wire. What I cannot work out is why the window winder motor should affect the central locking. If anyone can suggest why, I would appreciate it.

 

 

Also if anyone has a wiring diagram that I can ponder over, that would be great.

 

 

Thanks

 

 

Steve

 

 

 

 

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Racehunter

Wiring diagram for the drivers door now downloaded, so I will have a few hours continuity testing over the next few days.  Also I am not sure the problem is related to opening and closing the door as yesterday, I managed to get the windows and central locking to work again after a quick 'unplug/re-plug of the window motor connectors.  I then locked it up with the key and came back to it this morning to find, once again, only the drivers door unlocked from that side!

 

It makes me wonder if it could be a circuit-board component somewhere.

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nige8021

First Welcome to the forum.

 

The drivers door is the master unit so that controls the other door units.

 

There was a post in this section relating to similar problems with a 9N3 something to do with capacitors in the control unit

 

The single opening or all doors opening is something that can be set using VCDS and it might pay to get the car scanned to see if that throws up fault codes, you will need a VW based reader like VCDS as a generic reader probably will not read the other units other than the engine 

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Racehunter

Hi nige8021,

 

Thanks for the 'welcome' and taking the time to respond to this issue.  I have read the post, I think you are referring to and it was that discussion that made me question if my problem was the same, however if I remember correctly, that was just a electric window problem.  However if the central locking and window operation is linked for security reasons, it might explain my problem.

 

I also remember reading another post somewhere, with a similar problem and that was eventually traced to the black wire from the drivers door window motor, which was broken where looped in the harness.

 

On the subject of VCDS, can you recommend an inexpensive (as in not for dealer use) way to access the system?  I already use the IDS SDD Jaguar software and mongoose cable for my X Type.  I take it that a connection lead and software on a laptop is possible?

 

Steve

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nige8021

Most problems are down to broken wires in the flexy rubber tube between the door and body.

 

With VCDS you can get a lead from here https://www.gendan.co.uk/product_VAGUSB.html there are Chinese copies on eBay but I would buy from a reputable source, then you can for free download the VCDS Lite with that you can do quite a lot of things but not as many as the full version https://www.gendan.co.uk/category_145.html 

 

I think your correct in that the previous postings was about a window problem, but if you get that lead and do a scan it might throw up some better idea as to what is going on 

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Racehunter

Thanks for the links.  I looked at the VADUSB cable but the website says its only compatible for vehicles up to 2003.  Is that correct?

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nige8021

The only reason it says to 2003 is that after that most use the CANbus system, it will work on later models by using the slower "K"line diagnostic, I hadn't noticed they have stopped doing the HEX-CAN lead which would be the better option for your car, so might pay search eBay for a used one, or take a risk with a Chinese cracked copy of the full function lead, I have a cracked version 11.1 and it worked fine, it just meant you couldn't update the software to the latest version  

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