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Showing content with the highest reputation since 25/05/19 in Posts

  1. 2 points
    I do still have car its parked in my garage gathering dust not restored yet due to family issues
  2. 2 points
    Im new here but owned a black 6n2 before thought i would join Club polo Picked her up on Saturday thought I would post a picture!
  3. 2 points
    paid alot of attention to engine bay to get it back to factory standard and very pleased with it now
  4. 1 point
    It's been like 2 years since I started this project and I gave up, just didn't fit. But now I have actually managed to find a way for it to work, and it is less of a ball ache than my original idea 😂
  5. 1 point
    yes there is 23mm deep one for 1.6D Santana eg https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Radiator-for-VW-Santana-1-6-81-84-Choice2-2-Diesel-32b-CR-JK-Saloon-54-DENSO/10027530207 And some listings say 34mm deep for the GK engine like I have. Found a 700mm wide 320mm height by 34mm deep https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Radiator-VW-PASSAT-32b-Santana-32-B-Cooler-VW-2037-Ava-040460n/2281090400
  6. 1 point
    sorted, i actually loosened up the bolts on the opposite side and that allowed me to further tighten the bolt on the leak side. obviously was extremely careful not to break the bolts as they are very small.
  7. 1 point
    You'll have a much easier time of it with the box off the car! Couple of things I found when I did mine recently: The tip in the doc about wrapping the shaft in electrical tape to protect it from scoring was tricky to get to work but you may have better luck with your improved access. I just said a prayer and hoped for the best while I tried to pry the old seal out as carefully as I could. Couldn't get a self-tapper into the old seal to pry it out properly and equally couldn't punch in a small screwdriver like in the doc. The steel skeleton of the seal makes it a right pig - ended up just mashing it radially until the seal was smaller than the bush it sits in. A good polishing of the input shaft with fine grit polishing paper would be a good idea
  8. 1 point
    http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/nige8021/library/Wiring Diagrams 2/6N2 Door Wiring for the window wiring http://s1117.photobucket.com/user/nige8021/library/Wiring Diagrams 2/6N2 Central Locking for the OEM central locking
  9. 1 point
    A couple of things about 'checking' the torque of a nut or bolt and torque wrench calibration. The correct torque of a bolt/nut can ONLY be checked whilst it is actually being tightened - It is NOT possible to simply put the torque wrench back on it to 'check' as the initial resistance to turning would prevent an accurate reading - It might even be possible to increase the setting slightly and still get a 'click' out of it without it turning the bolt/nut. A very rough method of checking that your torque wrench is giving something like the correct result is to use a spring balance at a point exactly 12 inches from the centre of the drive square. Set the wrench to a setting in lbs/ft (ft/lbs if you like) , grip the square in the vice and pull on the spring balance - the wrench should 'click' at the appropriate setting. This is NOT a super accurate calibration check, as there are some variables - not least, the accuracy of the spring balance (but you could check that against a known weight). This check is best repeated at two or three settings of the wrench. Regards
  10. 1 point
    Ouch. Original nuts reused on end of ARB? Do you trust your torque wrench? Looks like dent and scrape, but not much material lost. Sump is not leaking at that point, but probably worth reinforcing with filler and painting over to stop rust from outside.
  11. 1 point
    Hi All, New to the site starting a thread for my progress. Mods so far: 16mm spacers on rears Heko wind deflectors Debadged side badges Blacked out all other decals Rear wiper delete Rear light clusters changed LED fog bulbs Enabled auto door locking on movement Disabled auto stop Disabled rear wiper sweep on reverse Disabled fog activation on turning Speed increase by adding a go faster stripe 😉 Working on installing a 10" android head unit, big thanks to nige8021 for the wiring diagram Remap, lowering and exhaust coming in the future, thanks for reading 😉
  12. 1 point
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fiberglass-Wings-Mk1-Vw-Polo-Audi-50-fender/273822151095?hash=item3fc11271b7:g:wOQAAOSwWkhcwpzm&frcectupt=true
  13. 1 point
    Are the front suspension top mounts equally shagged? I imagine one could shift under torque input, but never felt that myself. Any weird tyre wear from worn ARBs? Does it go straight-ahead hands off the wheel on a flat road with just enough gas to be constant speed at 20 to 40mph? I assume the tracking was done right. Sounds like it. And just pulling away from rest do you need to correct the steering at all? I once had a worn out hub that appeared to pull left despite tracking adjustment. If with engine off you press hard on the brake pedal then turn the wheel left then right from centre do you get a clunk? Does it then not clunk with brakes off? Then I'd investigate for wheel play.
  14. 1 point
    Suggest that you use an accurate tyre pressure gauge as a first step to sorting the problem. After that, a steering geometry check should identify the problem. (I am assuming that your suspension is standard.) Regards
  15. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice mate. Much appreciated.
  16. 1 point
    First Welcome to the forum. Here's the wiring diagrams from the dealer manuals Polo 6C Radio.pdf
  17. 1 point
    Thanks for the help I took it out and checked and I had installed it the correct way round.
  18. 1 point
    I managed to get a rear arch for mk2 recently off German ebay recently, might be worth keeping an eye there
  19. 1 point
    Heritage do rear arches and lower repair panels https://www.vwheritage.com/861809837-outer-rear-wheel-arch-repair-left-vw-spare These guys list sills, but appear to be out of stock https://www.carbodypanels4u.co.uk/volkswagen/polo/volkswagen-polo-3-door-hatchback-1976-1981-mk1
  20. 1 point
    First welcome to the forum. Do you have aircon ? There is one sensor behind the bumper on the passenger side and another sensor in the air inlet trunking for the aircon (if fitted) with the aircon both of these sensors signal to the aircon panel and that sends the info to the speedo via the CANbus wiring, if you don't have aircon the one sensor behind the bumper signals direct to speedo
  21. 1 point
    A front brace or "GED bar" doesn't do that much in all honesty. They still allow the very floppy front end to flex and don't fix any of the understeer these cars suffer from. The best modification is a stage 2 subframe. They give a very noticeable improvement in handling especially initial turn in. Makes the front end feel a lot more grippy and positive.
  22. 1 point
    There is a website called 'NextDoor' on which people in your locality post all sorts of requests - painter/decorator, plasterer, joiner etc - You could try joining it and posting something like 'Person required to fit new clutch' and see if there is anyone who will, or maybe someone can recommend someone else - its worth a try if no one on the forum responds. Regards
  23. 1 point
    See how fast you dare do the moose test on a private road - don't wreck your car! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Moose_test Centre of gravity is a bit as high standard. But once you start lowering the geometry needs more compensation.
  24. 1 point
    Not much time on this recently, but I came up with this from a few bits of scrap. It bolts in tightly to the rear beam mounting point, and accurately indicates where the centre of the spring plate should be. As an added bonus, when the bend is redone the other way, it works for the other side too. 🙂
  25. 1 point
    You wrote that 2 hours ago, hope you are not stranded somewhere. I remember this. guy's article http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
  26. 1 point
    That sounds about right to me, as you say it is only an M10 bolt and 50Nm is plenty to pinch the ball joint. The lock nut will prevent the bolt coming loose.
  27. 1 point
    Ah, but with the Weber DMTR I had to fit an o-ring to the needle valve holder to shut it up - and there was a tiny fuel pipe leak too.
  28. 1 point
    No, my fuel pump turns off once the carb reservoir(s) is full. The pump rate slows right down then stops. There could be dirt in the needle valve letting fuel past. That would play havoc with the fuel level which is critical. Definitely using a huco 133010 rated 0.15 bar? Not a 133000 rated twice that as designed for near fuel tank.. http://www.gowerlee.dircon.co.uk/HUCO.html
  29. 1 point
    Nice motor, top tip for covering up rusty bolts, get a black perm maker and colour them in be surprised how much of a difference it makes.
  30. 1 point
    900/(Pi *cyl radius in mm) is the knock resonance in kiloHertz according to the TI data sheet and the backshed article.
  31. 1 point
    Have a look at this https://www.clubpolo.co.uk/topic/167689-how-to-fix-non-workingstiff-door-locks/?page=2&tab=comments#comment-2638832 I posted a how to guide on replacing the lock paddles
  32. 1 point
    Took carbs off and apart. This is the pump chamber. scraped it out and this is the carb in the ultrasonic cleaner. before adding the fluid to heat up and buzz the dirt away.
  33. 1 point
    I'll be there as usual! 👍 Burgers & Pork bellies on the BBQ again! 😊
  34. 1 point
    Excellent! Much appreciated dude, more essential items on the parts list but I'll have one of those for sure
  35. 1 point
    Ok, that should be leak free as flat. (I used a Febi rubber mount.) But might let air in when it gets hot, hence paper gasket. Maccoll found waxed cardboard is great. So is the idle jet too big? Have you got the throttle flap a bit too far open so it is idling on the progression holes, not the idle circuit alone? The point of the flap is to throttle (squeeze neck to death) the airflow into the engine which naturally wants to spin as fast as it can.
  36. 1 point
    Hooray for on the road. Everything expands as it gets hot. Rings, piston walls, cam lobes .. Needs about 20mins to recharge to prestart levels. It will loosen up, but only if driven at varying loads. Deceleration is good as the vacuum sucks oil up and acceleration is good because it forces the rings against piston walls. Don't thrash it. New plugs I assume?
  37. 1 point
    Hi @Trickyricky Welcome to ClubPolo! I'll look into the 5MB attachments for you.
  38. 1 point
    Hi Ricky, the system should automatically resize your uploaded images, it's not a fast service but should work, if not try uploading to the likes of flikr and copy the img code from there and paste that into the reply box, that should also work
  39. 1 point
    I LOADS of trim and spare parts I'm still trying to get rid of. It's mostly standard parts from MK2s. I'm thinking of coming up for a day to get rid of some of them. Prices will be rock bottom/free (I'll take donations). I may also have some tastier/more interesting part too. Would people be interested?
  40. 1 point
    With all due respect, it isn't possible to find TRUE TDC by poking things down a plug hole - what you can find though, is the top of the stroke, BUT you will not know that the crank is in the dead centre position. However, if you do use this method, once you have found the top of the stroke, if you then rock the crankshaft backwards and forwards a few degrees, you will be able to 'feel' the APPROXIMATE dead centre position, at which point, if your key/keyway is in good condition, the factory TDC mark on the pulley should line up. The only reason that flywheel marks are more accurate than those on the pulley, is that (1) the flywheel is larger in diameter, and therfore any SLIGHT errors are not so important. (2) the marks align with something solid, rather than bits of bent tin (which can become even more bent) With the screwdriver/dowel on top of the piston, be aware that as the piston rises, the screwdriver/dowel can become trapped - at which point it is time to stop turning the crank and investigate. Regards.
  41. 1 point
    if anyone is intrested this is the alternator that is almost a direct fit on polos its from a passat /golf diesel late 80s /early 90s get the alternator and swap all the pulley/washers over from the original , then you will find the upper bolt hole is 10mm vs 8mm on the old one , you can either purchase some sleeve bearings for a few pence to push in and convert to 8mm or drill your mount and use the 10mm bolt lower bracket will need a m8 bolt and washer on the early polos without the toothed wheel adjsuter belt ...well they seem to vary , seems i need a 690 x 10 mm , but my mates gt fits with the original so be prepared to mess with that (same pulleys but bigger alt doesnt allow so much movement to slip belt on) i also upgrded the wire to 4 guage
  42. 1 point
    The classic front lower strut brace for a Mk3 Polo, designed to fit between the ARB mount and chassis, to increase the rigidity and help maintain correct wheel geometry in corners, improving grip and feel. Easy to fit, comes supplied with instructions and Stainless fasteners, finished in gloss black. Best value handling modification for an early Polo! Price: £30.00 Delivery: £7.80 Shop here: Click for PPP Shop! In stock- ready to go!
  43. 1 point
    Any 80s MK2 Golf GTi 8v caliper should fit any post-86 MK2/F Polo. They're marked VWII quite clearly. Use also the vented discs and G40 pads. 16v calipers will not fit. And if yours is a pre-86,you'll need the carriers from an 86-94 MK2/F. Dont use the ones from the G40,as they have a brace which will foul the wheel. I'm using Goodridge braided hoses from Demon Tweeks,not the cheapest though.
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