Jump to content
Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.
Light/Dark Mode Enabled: You can now select the option by clicking the moon/lightbulb in the top right corner!

Leaderboard

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 17/03/21 in Posts

  1. Would anyone be interested in a build thread of my car? I’ve done a ton of (‘innovative’, atleast I havnt seen much of it before) development work with bump steer and some things with the handling and also the engine. I work on it most days and have a workshop to make weird diy parts but the car is remarkably different to drive than in stock form. I’m just interested to share and have a good discussion and learn more.
    2 points
  2. Alignment requirement depends on which type of bush you use to replace what's on there, and what you undo whilst changing them. If you fit the same type of bush as on there now and don't undo the bolts holding the console to the car, then the alignment should be OK. Pitfalls include the front bolt binding up in the aluminium thread of the console as it comes out, which can be expensive and annoying (new console time, generally). Most likely to happen if someone has previously re-used these bolts instead of replacing, in my opinion. Do you know if they've been done bef
    2 points
  3. This is from the 085 instructions Removing ‒ Disconnect drive shaft from flanged shaft. ‒ Tie-up drive shaft as high as possible. Do not damage paint on drive shaft. ‒ Remove flanged shaft securing bolts, to do this screw two bolts into the flange and counter-hold flanged shaft using a lever. ‒ Place drip tray underneath. ‒ Remove flanged shaft. ‒ → Pull seal out. Do no
    2 points
  4. Wanted to add this pic of the door cards that have been retrimmed.... the old stuff was peeling away so have been re-done in simple black. Dead chuffed with result.
    2 points
  5. First Welcome to the forum. That RED wire with a 110a fuse ? feeds the "X" contact relief relay, Dipped beam relay, fuses # 20,21,22,47 & 48 in fusebox inside car, Main light switch & Headlight Hi/Lo stalk switch
    1 point
  6. That part number is OK to use, and if you did, and just undid the bolts you mention, then alignment should be as before the change (if that's the part that's currently fitted). No harm in getting it checked though. Only earlier versions starting 6Q0, without the X-shaped rubber ribs should definitely be avoided for lack of duraility. Those just had single vertical rubber ribs above/below the hex, and don't last well at all. If the console-to-chassis bolts are undone or a different style of bush is fitted then alignment is likely to need adjustment. If you look carefully at photos o
    1 point
  7. There are numerous examples on this and other forums how to change them on Polo 9N, Fabia etc. I have changed mine 3 times. The stock bushes (or cheap ones) will tear and wear out within 2-3 years. I have used Meyle HD 100 610 0027/HD and had no problems for the last 7 years. To remove the old bush and install the new one you will need (believe me a godsend) : VW VAG Bush Remover Tool Set Silent Block Extractor Volkswagen Polo (bought ebay and do work) Also a ratchet strap to force control arm back in, once bush in. There are plenty of videos on how to use this to
    1 point
  8. Thanks for the advice. Not too bothered about presentability so long as the weld joint has penetrated well. When I have grinded I can go over it again if there are any holes, dry looking joint sections. I'll pull the car by the tow loop with a winch as a test when I'm done. Did once push it from behind about a mile back home with a bar hooked in that loop. But anyway I relented and bought an invertor MIG that can do Gas, Gasless (fluxcored) with a Euro pistol, or MMA with sticks - or Lift TIG with a different gun. Still waiting for gas and
    1 point
  9. @steveo3002 answered this in your other post "G 060 726 a2 from the dealers"
    1 point
  10. I finally got this running a few weeks ago! But I ran into a problem with it not going into gear, I've asked the question in the technical help section, if anyone can help please let me know, cheers!
    1 point
  11. The bushes do wear out, especcially if they're pattern ones, due to the voids in the rubber that are there to make it a softer ride. If you want a longer-lasting repair, or are planning other mods, it's worth replacing them with the bushes from an Ibiza Cupra. They're a direct replacement, and not expensive https://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/ibiza-cupra-uprated-console-bushes-for-vw-polo-skoda-fabia-and-seat-ibiza.html If you've done any suspension work, it's always worth getting an alignment check doing, especcially if you can find somewhere that does a f
    1 point
  12. Hi rubber one is for mk2 I'm after mk2f one but thanks. Second one looks like it might fit. Still not made up my mind yet. Thanks.
    1 point
  13. think so yes...cdrtainly much easier with it off...24mm nut btw
    1 point
  14. not common...id start by pulling the cluster , make sure the multiplug is clean and tight , maybe a smear of dielectric grease on the pins check over the blue foil for damage
    1 point
  15. Repairing thin sheet steel is an absolute mare with a Mig, especially when it’s old and rusty, getting it clean is the worse thing. I’m also forever twiddling with power and feed settings to prevent blowing holes in it.
    1 point
  16. So I painted the NOS 1.3 litre HH code 4-2-1 exhaust with some silver VHT paint and set about fitting the lot. Exhaust went on no problems. The old intake manifold was coolant heated so I used a spare pipe I have to bypass it in the coolant circuit, 90 deg step up diameter elbow from the smaller flange on the coolant rail to the larger one on the head. Whilst I had the coolant drained I took the opportunity to fit a new radiator. Then I ran into my first issue, I had heard some RHD cars in the past have had the SORG twin DCOE 40 setup foul on the brake master cylinder b
    1 point
  17. When I had an Ibiza with the same engine series, the EPC came on a few times but with no corresponding fault codes and I ended up replacing all the vacuum pipes to/from the inlet manifold and on that engine (AUD code) there was a vacuum valve mounted on the inlet manifold (not the fuel pressure valve) I replaced that as it wasn't operating as per the maintenance manual and the EPC never came back There are a couple connectors under the thermostat housing on a bracket and that is where the lambda sensor wires go through and it's not uncommon for the pins/sockets too corrode out and
    1 point
  18. The lambda sensor, or the wires to the lambda sensor could explain any the first four codes. Not sure about the throttle position sensor code - maybe a secondary error. Very hard to tell without a snapshot of engine load/temp when fault occured. Clear the codes, fit a new or known working lambda sensor, see if it returns.
    1 point
  19. can also use vice grips on the disc or a screwdriver in the slot if you have vented discs when working alone....use a long extension to work from the wheel arch area
    1 point
  20. Make sure you fasten the driveshaft spline bolts real tight when you refit each driveshaft universal joint to flange. Only small but all six bolts need 45Nm. (I have seen a smashed gearbox casing from where these had worked loose at speed on nearside shaft.) Easiest with a helper to put it in gear and stand on the brake pedal when you tighten, then neutral and no brakes to turn shaft for access the next spline bolt.
    1 point
  21. check with that seller first but should be what you need yes can fit them on the car
    1 point
  22. Thats carb setup looks super trick!
    1 point
  23. Looking awesome, I hope you get to enjoy some sunshine and shows this year, reckon you'll be taking home some prizes, the car is stunning 😍👌
    1 point
  24. So this month I have mostly been treating the underbody. After bare metalling the underside with an angle grinder fitted with knotted cup bushes I had used Rust Buster (rust.co.uk) Epoxy Mastic 121. I now wanted to add some stone chip protection to this. Original plan was a textured rubberised stone chip in the arches and the modern equivalent of Waxoil on the pans. I ended up putting Dinitrol 447 Super Protect resin based elastic rubber stone chip on all of the underside, the reason I haven't done this before is it effectively sticks the front wings in place. This gave a really good looking f
    1 point
  25. I host my photos on https://imgur.com then click 'insert from URL' Probably just as I always have done on forums. Work looks great, you must be well happy!
    1 point
  26. Fuel pump holding up so all good for now.
    1 point
  27. Hi Guys, Just had the remote flip key cut, can confirm it is unlocking the doors manually with the flip blade and starting the car! All done and working, it's been a journey. Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this over the years. 🙂 I will keep an eye on this thread and try to help out anyone in future! Skolzey
    1 point
  28. Excellent work so far 😎
    1 point
  29. 1 point
  30. really nice work he is doing there
    1 point
  31. epoxy primer is worth the investment on a car you want to keep ....10x more durable than zinc182
    1 point
This leaderboard is set to London/GMT+01:00

Announcements

  • Notice to Hotmail/Gmail & BT Internet users - Please check your SPAM/JUNK folders for our emails. Please add our email as a contact to your email account.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. Terms of Use Privacy Policy Guidelines