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bitten the bullet. bought an AFH conversion for my coupe S

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well I've gone ahead and done it. after having the car on the road 5 months I'm already on the search for a bit more power. This wont be the first conversion I've done, as 5 or 6 years ago, i fitted an NZ lump into my old '82 coupe.

So this is the plan. I know theres alot of arsing about when converting, between fueling and wiring(which is my biggest fear), I'm going to fit the engine into the old mk2 shell i have knocking around, get it running, then hopfully this should make the transplant into my current daily mk2 much quicker and efficiently.

I do have a few questions though, when i wire the AFH ecu into older type fusebox, will i have to splice in pritty much every wire, or is it simpler than that? I remember seeing someones build thread the other week where the AFH fusebox was fitted in sight under the steering wheel, but i cant find the thread or remember who it was lol.

Secondly, what is the size of the standard exhuast system where it joins the downpipe. need to make some decisions on that.

And finally, for now.... For those that have done AFH on standard managment, what are the options on fuel pumps and lines? I've seen a few that mention a facet pump, but will this require a presure regulator? and also are the standard lines up to the job?

I've read and searched as much as i can, and I'm sure as i go along building up in the spare car, ill begin to write up my own guide as i begin to find things that i havnt already read!

And for now thats it.. ahhh rite I've managed to contain my excitment while typing that lol but i am actually beaming and cant wait to get to work :lol: Its been so long since I've got my hands dirty arsing around under the bonnet of a MK2!!!

1 Final question. can anyone comment thats gone from a 1.3 coupe s, to the AFH. I know its easy for someone thats gone from a 1.0 upto the 16v to say it flys, but I'm trying to get some real perspective of how it'll drive cpmpared to the S. :smirk:

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this might just be me imagining stuff, or chatting shite. but anyway,

I'm sure i read somewhere that you can use the mk2 fusebox and just fit the mk4 one too, for ease...however, not really the best, always good to do things properly i guess?

Fitting the mk4 fusebox as well is a pretty pikey route but it is tried and tested. I'd like to eventually wire mine is properly using the mk2 fusebox but I can't see that being any time soon because I'm a total dunce where wiring is concerned :lol:

I'll try and answer some of your questions tomorrow if I'm not busy at work but off to sleep now :thumbsup:

To answer one qustion tho, yes it is a big difference to the coupe s engine, if your afh is running well then it shouldn't be too far off twice the book bhp of the s lump :wink:

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because I'm a total dunce where wiring is concerned :lol:

:thumbsup:

AH HA found you! OK cheers mate, I feel I might have to pikey it in as you so beautifully put it lol. So i take it the mk2 fuse box powers everything bar the engine, and then the MK4 fusebox and loom runs everything else.. I'm just trying to picture how they intergrated and linked to the battery lol.

OK double the power sounds good. I'm gonna build up the engine on the bench before i fit it to the spare shell anyway so it should be making its full 100HP. I wont be able to do anything but run it in this spare shell though as it is literally a shell (with an interior loom and dash).

thanks for getting me rolling here polomon, and thanks in advance McLovin. I'm sure ill be naggin the f@@k out of you over the comming months/weeks/years. I'm chris BTW

nite you'll

What year was the car that the conversion came from mate? It's just that during the 6n production they swapped over to a totally different fuse box design and the wiring had different plugs on making the two looms non interchangeable. I have always used the early loom (I think 97 is the cross over year) as I find them a lot less confusing imo.

What i did was strip the engine loom out of the engine bay loom (keep every thing that goes to the engine and strip out every thing to the lights ect). I remove the rad fan wiring aswell and use the mk2 rad and all the wiring for it. You can also leave the original wiring for the starter motor and alt in the mk2, it really is just the engine stuff you need.

when stripping the loom I tend to plug as much of what I need in so I can keep track easier (like plug the ecu into the loom, plug the engine wiring into the fusebox ect). Once all the outer casing is off the loom follow the wires from the ecu to where ever they go (think its just the engine and the fusebox) and put a bit of tape around them here and there as you go to keep track of them (it gets very confusing when you have a loose engine bay loom all over the floor lol). Then do the same with the engine wiring and so on until you have all the wiring you need taped up and it should become clear which wires are needed and which ain't.

To sort the interior wiring you will need the part of the dash loom that goes from the fusebox to the ignition and splice them into the cars ignition wiring. You'll need to run a wire from the correct pin on the fusebox to the live on the fuel pump (i can let you know which pin if you need), and you will need the wiring for the immobiliser (this will need the transponder ring with it) which is basically its own little loom and also plugs into the fusebox.

That's pretty much it wiring wise, although a if you want an easy route Vic on here was selling every thing needed wiring wise to run this set up in an early polo and with all the wires all labeled up and sorted ready to splice into the car (i ran this setup in ly old mk3 for a year and it was faultless).

on the fuel pump I'm running the mk3 GT setup (intank lifter pump, inline pump and lines). Although I have ran and Higgo has been running for a good while just a mk3 GT main pump on the end of his standard mk1 polo fuel line (with a small universal filter before the pump) under the bonnet and a pipe off that to the fuel rail.

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wwhhheeww ok read that a few times to get my head around it.

now I'll be completely honest. Until the engine pallet arrives, I'm not going to know which wiring loom its going to come with, or weather or not it will come with the interior loom. Or even from what year car its all come out of.

There is some good news though, I do have a MK3 NZ lift pump, inline pump, and fuel lines, all still attatched to my old MK2 ( they're prob the only things left on it). I should be able to use the rear loom if i splice in the mk2 rear light plugs onto it. Although the pump could actually be fucked as its been sat for 5 years.

I think once I've actually got it all in front of me it will all come together and make more sence (hopfully..) :lol: Ill post again when its all posted to me and I've got a better idea whats going on. Thanks for that info so far though!

Anyway, heres a few shots I took today. to celebrate buying an engine I took the day off and headed up to the depths of the brecon becons to chill in the sun.

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Edited by Leggy

If I had a laptop this would make a perfect background :thumbsup:

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Once you have it all there and you can have a good mooch around it to get a better idea of what's going on mate 8-)

I did pretty much the same as Mclovin, but with a late loom (97 on). so between us we have it covered! lol

that coupe looks well, good plan getting a 16v lump in there :D

you can also use the Mk4 fuel pump wiring and relay which is what I did on my Mk2. Basically the plug with red/yellow wire on it that goes to the back of the car.

to splice the 'piggyback' loom all you need to do is connect the thick black and thick red wires to the Mk2 loom and you're good to go. I also run the Mk4 rad fan wiring and sensor with a Mk3 GT fan which are both for 2-speed circuits so work fine together.

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Cheers guys. supprising what a camera phone is capable of these days eh :-p. I've got higher res versions of all these pics on my HD.

Anyway, I have a feeling that when this pallet arrives, Theres going to be an engine bay loom, but no interior loom, So I might see if vic would be willing to split what he has just to get his full loom. The current owner has said it comes with the transponder box key and ring though so thats one worry off my mind.

Would my coupe s have a lift pump at the moment, as when i did my last swap (1.1- NZ) I had to go down the route of bashing a dent in the tank etc which seems like a ball ake to do again to my nice new fuel tank... Couldnt i just fit a facet fuel pump from ebay?

The more I'm thinking about doing the swap, the more I'm thinking about taking a week off work and sticking it straight the red coupe, rather than faf around with getting it running in my spare shell first.

What year is your coupe mate? For some reason I've got the thought in my head that later mk2 tanks can tank the lift pump and all you have to do is put a loop of fuel pipe between the two original pipes off the bottom of the tank. I'm sure some one will either confirm this or prove me to be imagining shit :lol:

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What year is your coupe mate? For some reason I've got the thought in my head that later mk2 tanks can tank the lift pump and all you have to do is put a loop of fuel pipe between the two original pipes off the bottom of the tank. I'm sure some one will either confirm this or prove me to be imagining shit :lol:

My coupe is a 1990. I thought it was the earliest of the MK2's that drew fuel from the bottom.. Ill have a look tomorrow and let you know where i am on that lol.

Just watched a few cool AFH'd mk2s on youtube. some of them seem to fly up the rev range fair play :badgrin:

All mk2's draw it from the bottom mate as its a gravity fed system, but I'm sure I read some where that some time in production the shape of the tank changed

They do pull well mate, compared to the original 1.3 lump its like night and day. Between my current mk2 and my old mk3 I've been driving an afh'd early polo for about a year and a half and it still puts a smile on my face. I'm looking to take mine a bit further soon with a 1.6 bottom end and a few other bits and bobs but even with just the standard setup its a hoot to drive :-)

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yup your correct. So seeing as it draws fuel from the bottom, theres no real need for me to add a lift pump, the aditional wiring for it, along with a full fuel pump. surely it'll be easier to fit a facet fuel pump in the bay, and take an ignition live with a relay to power it. Weekends getting closer i cant wait :D do you know all the available engine codes i could get the 1.6 bottom end from? I know theres a thread but while I'm here and all that 8-) .....

Edited by Leggy

If you have the nz fuel pump you can remove that from the inline mounting and mount that in the bay. Saves having to use a fuel reg and facet pump, they are pretty compact too

Probably best just to read through the 1.6 thread mate as all the info is already there and saves repeating it all. I've gone for the avy from the 6n2 gti but there are few different doner engines you can use depending on the route you want to take

won't mounting it near/in the bay reduce the life of the pump? since when fuel runs back it will be running dry for a few seconds every time you start the car? ok for a low flow pump, but higher flow injection pumps spin faster surely? I'm not 100% on this though so don't take my word..

As Mclovin says, it is great fun to drive. The engines just love to rev! So much better than the standard 1.3s it's unreal. Compared to my carbed GT I'd say it's a lot more fun too. Slightly less room to work in the bay is the only downside I can see.

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won't mounting it near/in the bay reduce the life of the pump? since when fuel runs back it will be running dry for a few seconds every time you start the car?

How about if i put in a non return valve just after the thank? I think that 'aught to do it. Such as this one.. This is for a low pressure system but they must make them for fuel injection models.... Thoughts?

one way valve

the more i get told how impressed ill be with the power of the coup S the bigger my smiles get. does anyone have the stock torque figres for the AFH to hand? wondering what it'll be like before the revs come in on song lol :thumbsdown:

I've just discovered that the conversion wont be comming with the transponder ring :disgust: . So if anyone spots a valver in a scrappy jump on the case and let me know as all my locals are pritty usless thes days. Need to start sourcing things like the ARB blocks now. and possibly make a build thread. How do i go about that?

Edited by Leggy

Higgo has been running his pump in the engine hay for over a year, I'm not sure of the science behind it bit his car is still pulling hard. It's probably not perfect but it seems to work.

They do have some torques before they come on song, its a really good all rounder in standard form in such a lite car

I have a spare late spec transponder ring so if you have a late setup you can have it for the cost of postage if I can find it

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I have a spare late spec transponder ring so if you have a late setup you can have it for the cost of postage if I can find it

You my friend are a star thank you. delivery of the pallet has been put back to next week now as the seller under estimated the cost of sending it. i wanna get it home and rip its head off :badgrin:

  • 3 weeks later...
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UPDATE:

OK today i recieved the ECU, coded key, and the most butchered wiring loom you can imagine..Only haf of it is here, and the main stem of wires which goes into the plug for the ECU has been cut, so I'm left with a stem with around 20/30 lose wires... Still waiting on the actual engine, and all the rest of the ancilliaries it was supposed to come with. Is the transponder box seperate to the actual ECU?

I've got a feeling I've been had so I've opened a dispute on ebay. Chances are hes going to have to have the whole lot back. If its not as described, am I entitled to a full refund?

Is there anyway of telling from the ecu part number wether its come from an early or late 6N?

All in all I'm not very happy and wish I'd bought from someone on here now :crybaby:

Gutted :-(

Early and late ecu are the same mate, you can tell which it is by the plugs on the wiring loom. I'll try and find some pics in my Photobucket after I've been the shop

This is the full early engine bay loom, notice the two large circular style plug's these will only be on the early loom, the later looms have a few smaller oblong kinda shaped plug's in their place

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This is the back of the early fuse box and it kinda shows the shape of the plug's that should be on the part of the loom that go into the cabbin

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Edited by Mclovin

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This is the full early engine bay loom, notice the two large circular style plug's these will only be on the early loom, the later looms have a few smaller oblong kinda shaped plug's in their place

IMAG0331.jpg

This is the back of the early fuse box and it kinda shows the shape of the plug's that should be on the part of the loom that go into the cabbin

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awesome stuff thanks for the pics guy. So if i decide not to ask for a refund on this, then it wont matter if i take a loom from an early or late car? I have the oblong type plugs so It must have come from a late model. I've got the ECU and a key thats coded to it, but I was under the impression the key was coded to a seperate box.. I'll upload a pic or 2 of what 'loom' i recieved with this 'conversion' in just a minute..

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Here we go. this is what I recieved this morning.

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Time to either send it allll back, or huntt down and pay the extra for a full loom.

I've just had a quick look around on here and theres a few people breaking 16v 6ns with full conversions with rebuilt heads etc for £350 :oops: I paid just under that for this lot and theres stuff missing, stuff broken... I'm rather upset to day the least! If I win an ebay dispute for a full refund, whos responsible for the delivery costs of sending it all back? Surely the seller? I just want rid and buy another one now. I feel i should win this dispute due to the fact i paid nearly a month ago, still dont have the engine, stuff missing, stuff broken.. what you reckon?

Edited by Leggy

I'd send that back mate, they have to award in your favour as you have paid for a full conversion and been given half a loom, how come they didn't send it all at once? :?

The immobiliser is missing, its a black box that goes behind the dash and is coded to your key chip and ecu. You can code another immob to your ecu and key but you will have to buy one and find some one to code it for you.

I'd just fuck it off back to the seller and find another that you could collect and make sure you have all the bits

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I'd send that back mate, they have to award in your favour as you have paid for a full conversion and been given half a loom, how come they didn't send it all at once? :?

The immobiliser is missing, its a black box that goes behind the dash and is coded to your key chip and ecu. You can code another immob to your ecu and key but you will have to buy one and find some one to code it for you.

I'd just fuck it off back to the seller and find another that you could collect and make sure you have all the bits

Yeah lets hope it would go in my favour. Though i STILL havn't recieved the actual block n head yet. the sellers now ignoring me in the dispute which I opened 3 days ago. the only reason i went for this was the fact if was offerd with postage and its been a month next week lol. It wen't listed as a conversion, but it did say it comes with all ancilleries. So you think hes responsible for paying for the return postage and arranging it? I got a feeling hes just going to be really akward and claim it was all fine when it left him lol.

The only issue with buying on here is having to go and pick it up and possibly remove it, but at least I'll know what I'm getting I guess.

I think if i lose this dispute and I'm stuck with this crap, ill just break it and sell the bits, and buy another.

Either way i want be defeated and will be AFH'in my coupe 8-)

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