Took my steering knuckles off, then got the old bearings removed and shiny new ones pressed in at a local garage.

So far - job's a good 'un!

But, as my new hubs haven't arrived yet, I still need to get them pressed into the inner bearing races.

Question is - do they need pressed completely into the inner races on a bench, or can I refit the knuckles to the car and drift the hubs in carefully until the thread of the axle shows, then screw them home with the new axle nut?

I know the hub will come firmly to rest against the CV boss before the axle thread runs out, but will the hub be aligned properly inside the bearings?

Ta!

Edited 9 March, 200818 yr by seamonsta

I started my wheel bearing job today at 10a.m and still hadn't got the tie rod nut off by 1pm. I've now given up of ever freeing it ( its the old balljoint turning problem). Even with the taper fully pressed into the strut I still couldnt get the nut off.

I did notice that the little rubber boot on the balljoint is pretty well trashed so just ordered a new one for £8 (it needed doing so easier for me and passenger side so only tie-rod end needed).

I was gonna use that "threaded rod" method in the french guide(see prev posts) but having trouble putting the tool together so I might get mine pressed by a garage also.

Dunno about getting your hub back on as I'm sorta making this job up as I go along. May well be worth just paying another visit to the garage to get it put back on although I think that getting the hub back into the bearing is fairly straightforward just make sure that the inner race on your new pressed bearing is supported while the hub is pressed through.

Cheers

Edited 9 March, 200818 yr by Docbooze

Took my steering knuckles off, then got the old bearings removed and shiny new ones pressed in at a local garage.

So far - job's a good 'un!

But, as my new hubs haven't arrived yet, I still need to get them pressed into the inner bearing races.

Question is - do they need pressed completely into the inner races on a bench, or can I refit the knuckles to the car and drift the hubs in carefully until the thread of the axle shows, then screw them home with the new axle nut?

I know the hub will come firmly to rest against the CV boss before the axle thread runs out, but will the hub be aligned properly inside the bearings?

Ta!

rest the hub on a solid surface, lube it up,place the bearing on it, find a old socket that fit the inner bearing race tap it on to the hub. take your time oh i work in a garage btw lol

Edited 9 March, 200818 yr by kev...

I think the 30mm socket used for the driveshaft might just fit the inner race.

Cheers...

seamonsta dont try to do it on the car proper mare

Took my steering knuckles off, then got the old bearings removed and shiny new ones pressed in at a local garage.

What did the local garage charge to press the new bearings in? I'm thinking I'm going to have to do the same.

Cheers

Evo

Thanks Kev & Docbooze!

The French pic link wasn't too clear on that as they seemed to use their threaded puller & washer technique again, but I like the logic of driving the bearing over the hub on the bench.

Docbooze - I've had a few stubborn tie rod ends before. Guess it's time to break out the angle grinder and cut through the bastard nut & thread!

Careful not to scrape too much metal off the knuckle face where the new T.R.E. nut will sit tho...

What did the local garage charge to press the new bearings in? I'm thinking I'm going to have to do the same.

Cheers

Evo

They took £25 off me.

Not too bad, as another branch of the same garage quoted £35, but last year it was only £20 for same job on wife's Peugeot 306 bearings.

no worrys mate hope it helped take it easy

I know mine needs doing and was told it would be a lot cheaper to do most of the work myself then just take it in for them to put the bearings in. Ill be hoping for weather to get better now then so I can do it lol

Thats what a local garage told me. If you can get the strut into us ready for the bearing press , we'll do it for a tenner but is it o.k to transport a strut with coil spring still attached.

Cheers for the tie rod advice , yeah gonna hacksaw the little bastard luckily the nut is near the top of the thread so knuckle shoild be o.k then just put the new one on.

Can't see a problem transporting a strut with coil spring attached as it's all contained by the top cap isn't it?

However, wouldn't it be even easier to remove the strut from the knuckle altogether and leave it on the car?

I may be totally wrong here as I'm not sure if certain Polos don't have a strut that can disconnected by undoing the two 18mm bolts...

Can't see a problem transporting a strut with coil spring attached as it's all contained by the top cap isn't it?

However, wouldn't it be even easier to remove the strut from the knuckle altogether and leave it on the car?

I may be totally wrong here as I'm not sure if certain Polos don't have a strut that can disconnected by undoing the two 18mm bolts...

I think the mk3 is all one unit so unless you compress and remove the coil spring your looking at the whole thing unfortuatly. But should be o.k , as you say top nut will hold it all together.

* If I'm replacing a tie rod end will I still need a ball joint splitter or can I just hammer the old bolt through from the top. Also on the steering arm is the locknut the 1st or 2nd nut (from the tyre end)

Cheers -all good advice

Edited 9 March, 200818 yr by Docbooze

* If I'm replacing a tie rod end will I still need a ball joint splitter or can I just hammer the old bolt through from the top. Also on the steering arm is the locknut the 1st or 2nd nut (from the tyre end)

Again, this sounds a bit different from experience with my Mk.4?

If you've had to cut the nut & thread off the ball joint, the tie rod end will just pop out of the tapered hole so you won't need to split any actual ball joints if you're replacing with new. You said the shaft was turning in the taper so you won't even need a ball joint remover tool.

The locknut for the t.r.e. is the one furthest from the wheel - and bloody tough to turn on the tie rod threads on mine too!

It was a 22mm nut (another bloody open end spanner I had to buy!) and to make it easier, I suggest you loose this one off a bit before removing the tie rod from the steering knuckle. It gives you a bit of extra support rather than having a loose ended rod when you apply some serious torque. There's also a flat on the t.r.e. which you can use an adjustable wrench on to counteract the nut torque.

Good luck matey!

Finally, my new hubs arrived! :)

But then - - the hub diameter turns out to be good 1mm larger than the inner bearing race.

Not a few thou of an inch for a good interference fit, but a whole bloody millimeter!

Now, they're German parts and match the old hubs in every other respect, but either they're bogus, or the Timken bearings (made in Spain, sold by Euro Car Parts) are...

I know a good lathe operator. Should I get the excess machined off these hubs for a proper fit in the bearings (which are already pressed into the steering knuckle and look mint) or send 'em back for a refund and risk another oversize set of hubs..?

Time is marching on and I need Polomobility by Monday...

Cheers fellas!

Finally, my new hubs arrived! :)

But then - - the hub diameter turns out to be good 1mm larger than the inner bearing race.

Not a few thou of an inch for a good interference fit, but a whole bloody millimeter!

Now, they're German parts and match the old hubs in every other respect, but either they're bogus, or the Timken bearings (made in Spain, sold by Euro Car Parts) are...

I know a good lathe operator. Should I get the excess machined off these hubs for a proper fit in the bearings (which are already pressed into the steering knuckle and look mint) or send 'em back for a refund and risk another oversize set of hubs..?

Time is marching on and I need Polomobility by Monday...

Cheers fellas!

This is my fear as I need my car for work also. Any stage of this job could be a nightmare,removing the hub/pressing new bearing in but I've got my sockets and my threaded rod so I'm determined to do it myself. I've just manage to free a 14 year old tie-rod end through sheer determination and wd40 so gonna give it a go this Saturday.

Cheers

Well, a good local machine shop/lathe operator is certainly an asset!

Got the hubs machined down OK and pressed into the bearings at last!

Just need a good day tomorrow to finish the brake refit and sort the camber & tracking...

The DIY bill so far (inc. delivery charges) :

1. Bearings......................................£56

2. Hubs...........................................£48

3. Pressing & machining....................£50

4. Ball joints....................................£20

5. Tie rod ends................................£18

6. Rear Shocks................................£44

7. Tools needed...............................£20

8. Cleaning & lube...........................£10

8. Valium.......................................£6.50

Total.............................................£272.50

Edited 13 March, 200818 yr by seamonsta