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Brake bleeding order 1.4 tdi

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I have chang master brake cylinder, so i have to bleed brakes, Is there any correct way to bleed the brakes. Polo have ABS pump, is it possible air to be stuck in the ABS pump?

I have lazy brakes

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You need to first bleed the brakes as normal, furthest wheel from the M/C first (rear left) then rear right, front left, front right, then you need to use VCDS to set the ABS unit in basic settings, here's the proceedure Bleeding brakes with ABS.doc

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What is VCDS ? Thanks for the reply

Vag com diagnostic systems.

Basically the computer VW use.

You can buy it from rosstech for £280ish if I remember right

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Damn, i can get VAG , but 280 pounds for brake problem... so guys are you telling me that after bleeding the brakes i have to connect software on my polo? Is there any other hads up when i connect it to VAG ?

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Problem solved, my new brake hose, was somehow faulty, i return my old one and now everything is ok. Still dont know what is best way for bleeding the brakes.

  • 2 weeks later...
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Problem solved but not for long :( again same problem, when car stops, front brake are jamming and car need more throttle to get going.

Anybody else have the same problem?

  • 6 months later...
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I still having problem with brakes. When car is cold whole car are struggiling to accelerate, but when i drive 15-20 km (warm engine) car is acting like new, engine is much more smothe and plling right away. Can be the vacuum pump?

Sounds like 2 different problems really, engine shudder when cold is usually engine based.

If you have bled the brakes as above but don't have vagcom to set to basic settings, it will do it after 60km as it will adjust itself.

To check the vacuum pipe, just take it off the manifold and pull it out of the sego and check it properly. Usually the plastic hose can split just where it goes to the connector for the servo. Vw sell a repair kit which is a rubber hose and 2 clips. You can cut the pipe and try to reattach it and seal it, but it will only break again later from the vibration.

Edit : I just read the post again and see the calipers are sticking.

Have you took the slider bolts out and greased them? I have seen a few higher milage cars that have the pins seized in the carrier because they haven't been greased. If not then it's possible the seals have overheated and now stick. Do the wheels get jot when you drive? If so I would try to not use it too much while it's like this.

I have rebuilt the front calipers and it is very easy just 2 seals but you will have to take them off the car. Easiest way to take the Pistons out while they are on the car is take the caliper off the carrier and put a piece of wood in front of the piston to stop it flying away do both side at the same time and then slowly press the brake pedal until they almost come out then disconnect and they will just pull out then clean the inside and check for any damage and fit the new seals and refit.

As for the hoses I would try to use big brand ones like ATE pagid Bosch etc as they are usually better then the cheaPer ones.

Abs pump, you can try to disconnect it and go for a drive, be careful when you drive as there is no abs, but just see if the fronts stick, if they don't then most probably the abs pump or controller, if it's the same then it's something to do with front brakes them self.

Edited by dixy

As you have changed the M/C, it is worth checking that there is some free travel on the brake pedal - Use your HAND on the pedal and try to feel for the free movement before the plunger contacts the M/C piston.

If there is no free movement, it is possible that the M/C isn't releasing the brakes fully, causing the hydraulic pressure to hold them on slightly.

Regards

Caretaker is right - there needs to be free play before the brakes operate.

I'd suggest you follow his advice but if the sticky problem remains - you need to check you still have free play when brakes are warm (after using them).

I've personally had problems with aftermarket (front) brake levers on motorbikes where there is free play initially but as things warm up, the brakes begin to bind (and there is no freeplay when re-checked warm).

Also, it's unlikely, but as you said you have to change a hose because it was faulty it is possible that a part of the pipe or a piece or dirt or r

Ust etc has got caught in the solid brake pipes. It is unlikely, but it does happen, I guess when and if you take the pipes off agin, then release the pipes from the abs pump and blow them through with compressed air to clear them out. Same with the abs pump to M/C.

I had something similar happen on the clutch circuit on my vauxhall, I literally changed everything but the piping twice including the clutch, cost near to £1k and turned out that a split O ring was lodged in the pipe :( this meant that fluid went into the slave cylinder, but didn't come out and immediately blew the seal inside the very expensive slave cylinder, this won't happen with a caliper it will just stick closed.

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Here is photo from caliper cylinder that i have change for good- second hand one

20140922_211411_zpscc441b41.jpg

20140922_211239_zps88fa5a90.jpg

and here is the photo of brake pads sticking to brake disc

DSCN0652_zps7c55a97a.jpg

DSCN0653_zpsc31ac84c.jpg

The interesting thing about brakes and car is that car are shaking and trying to pull, but i guess brake won't let that happen. Few days ago i have drive polo for 20 minutes, and then leave it in parking space. after 50 min start the car and drive away, car was working perfect, brake did not stick... my opinion is the vacuum pump is making some kind of problem...

I will take the car down to service on monday, to give me opinion about problem I'm having.

p.s left brake disk now i squeal as soon as it get hot (after 2 km) :(

  • 1 month later...
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Is there any way for ABS pump to make brakes dragging ? I have changed everything (3 master cylinder, new caliper, new hose) only ABS unit is the same.

Is there anyway to test the ABS pump, like get ABS fuse out or something like that??

PLease help needed

  • 3 weeks later...

Mine at the moment is doing exactly the same thing. All discs turn but the front drivers is very tight.

New discs, pads, caliper, hose.

It's also different day by day, sometimes you can't turn the wheel that much other days it's not that difficult.

ABS?

Can vagcom reset imbalance?

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