Just wondering If Drum brakes on Gt's are differnt to drum brakes on Cl's..?

Dan

Just wondering If Drum brakes on Gt's are differnt to drum brakes on Cl's..?

Dan

No they are all the same... the front brakes are the same to.. only the G40 had different/better front brakes.

Mark

I'm sure my front disk's on my gt are differnt to the ones on my cl

I'm sure my front disk's on my gt are differnt to the ones on my cl

They might have been upgraded to G40 brakes (VWII callipers). But as standard the G40 had Vented discs all the other versions had non-vented discs.

Mark.

Just wondering If Drum brakes on Gt's are differnt to drum brakes on Cl's..?

Dan

No they are all the same... the front brakes are the same to.. only the G40 had different/better front brakes.

Mark

would people stop giving wrong advice PLEASE!!!!!!

gt drum brakes are same as g40 ones. They differ from a cl as

1. the cylinders are a differnt bore

2. they have a rear load sensor just before the axle which varies the amount of fluid going to the rear brakes

Just wondering If Drum brakes on Gt's are differnt to drum brakes on Cl's..?

Dan

No they are all the same... the front brakes are the same to.. only the G40 had different/better front brakes.

Mark

would people stop giving wrong advice PLEASE!!!!!!

gt drum brakes are same as g40 ones. They differ from a cl as

1. the cylinders are a differnt bore

2. they have a rear load sensor just before the axle which varies the amount of fluid going to the rear brakes

Yes you are correct. Sorry

I was thinking about the the actual drums/shoes (the replaceable stuff) rather than that..

Sorry for any confuzzsion I have caused..

Mark..

Edited 18 October, 200718 yr by max_crox

Do they have any better braking effect in real terms pete? Wondering if theres really any point in swapping the brakes across this weekend you see...

so GT brakes (front and Back) are differnt to CL, So with my conversion i should swap brakes over aswell?

gt/cl fronts are the same

lots of effort to swap gt to cl rears and i'd say only about 10-15% is done by rears

Which is pretty much what i thought... Cheers Pete.

If your converting to GT. Swap the whole rear axle, brakes and all. The GT rear axle has an anti roll bar.

Well technically so do all other mk1/2/3 polos, the rear beam axle design is basically just one big ARB. But yeah, if you're converting, swap the beam, as they are stiffer, so have better anti roll properties, and it would save the faffing with the breaks, as they'd just be swapped straight over.

Just got my G40 front Discs form GSF earlier, so they'll be going on on monday along with the VWII calipers I got from a scrappy the other day. :)

Well technically so do all other mk1/2/3 polos, the rear beam axle design is basically just one big ARB. But yeah, if you're converting, swap the beam, as they are stiffer, so have better anti roll properties, and it would save the faffing with the breaks, as they'd just be swapped straight over.

Just got my G40 front Discs form GSF earlier, so they'll be going on on monday along with the VWII calipers I got from a scrappy the other day. :)

GT/G40 anti roll bars are specific items. They have a roll bar as part of the beam, different to the lesser models.

It's the brake pressure regulator and the change of brake piping required that is the biggest issue in terms of the DIY mechanic. All brake lines past the bay and ahead of the beam need to be changed.

It's something I thought about for a little while, and it still messes with my brain a little. VW didn't use the regulator on anything below the GT. So either they figured the CL spec drums couldn't stop the wheel anyway or they figured that the GT/G40 driver would be more likely to slam the anchors on. If it's the first option then that suggests that the fitting of a GT/G40 rear beam and drums should require the regulator to prevent the amazing stopping power from spinning the car under heavy braking.

If you do fit the regulator and you slam the car be sure to adjust it to prevent the wheels from locking under the illusion of a heavy rear end.

:-?Hi , Just bought a polo mk 3 gt. Interested in this brake topic. What exactly do you mean when you are talking about VW11 Calipers ? Are they Polo or Golf or something else. Sorry for my ignorence, any info welcome......be gentle with me !!

:-?Hi , Just bought a polo mk 3 gt. Interested in this brake topic. What exactly do you mean when you are talking about VW11 Calipers ? Are they Polo or Golf or something else. Sorry for my ignorence, any info welcome......be gentle with me !!

Basically they are versions fitted to g40's and some Mk1 Golfs (plus loads of other VW's) which allow you to run Vented disc on the front.

Do a search for VWII or Brake Upgrade and you should find the info you need :)

Oh and Welcome!! :)

VWII calipers are fitted to polo g40s, mk1 golf gtis plus loads of mk2 golfs and other VWs from the late '80s. They'll fit right onto the existing GT carriers and allow you to use 239mm vented discs (stock GT ones are solid) which helps reduce brake fade.

:-?Hi , Just bought a polo mk 3 gt. Interested in this brake topic. What exactly do you mean when you are talking about VW11 Calipers ? Are they Polo or Golf or something else. Sorry for my ignorence, any info welcome......be gentle with me !!

Basically they are versions fitted to g40's and some Mk1 Golfs (plus loads of other VW's) which allow you to run Vented disc on the front.

Do a search for VWII or Brake Upgrade and you should find the info you need :)

Oh and Welcome!! :)

Thanks for your reply.

VWII calipers are fitted to polo g40s, mk1 golf gtis plus loads of mk2 golfs and other VWs from the late '80s. They'll fit right onto the existing GT carriers and allow you to use 239mm vented discs (stock GT ones are solid) which helps reduce brake fade.

Sounds like a good upgrade then ?

it's worth it yeah, the calipers are easy to find and shouldn't cost much at all. Then you just need discs and pads.

it's worth it yeah, the calipers are easy to find and shouldn't cost much at all. Then you just need discs and pads.

Thanks for the info.

It's the brake pressure regulator and the change of brake piping required that is the biggest issue in terms of the DIY mechanic. All brake lines past the bay and ahead of the beam need to be changed.

It's something I thought about for a little while, and it still messes with my brain a little. VW didn't use the regulator on anything below the GT. So either they figured the CL spec drums couldn't stop the wheel anyway or they figured that the GT/G40 driver would be more likely to slam the anchors on. If it's the first option then that suggests that the fitting of a GT/G40 rear beam and drums should require the regulator to prevent the amazing stopping power from spinning the car under heavy braking.

If you do fit the regulator and you slam the car be sure to adjust it to prevent the wheels from locking under the illusion of a heavy rear end.

could you please explain why is it that the brake lines need changing when cponverting to GT rear axle? i'm buying a GT axle this weekend which is off the car so i'm guessing the regulator isn't included - does anyone have a picture of what it is they look like and how you adjust it please?

cheers

mack

It's the brake pressure regulator and the change of brake piping required that is the biggest issue in terms of the DIY mechanic. All brake lines past the bay and ahead of the beam need to be changed.

It's something I thought about for a little while, and it still messes with my brain a little. VW didn't use the regulator on anything below the GT. So either they figured the CL spec drums couldn't stop the wheel anyway or they figured that the GT/G40 driver would be more likely to slam the anchors on. If it's the first option then that suggests that the fitting of a GT/G40 rear beam and drums should require the regulator to prevent the amazing stopping power from spinning the car under heavy braking.

If you do fit the regulator and you slam the car be sure to adjust it to prevent the wheels from locking under the illusion of a heavy rear end.

could you please explain why is it that the brake lines need changing when cponverting to GT rear axle? i'm buying a GT axle this weekend which is off the car so i'm guessing the regulator isn't included - does anyone have a picture of what it is they look like and how you adjust it please?

cheers

mack

The brake lines on a car without the regulator travel all the way from the front to the flexi hoses at the rear beam. With a regulator fitted they travel to the regulator and then to the beam. The regulator is fitted on the passenger side just in front of the rear wheel up in a a gap there. If you look you'll see a pull away strip in the underseal that reveals the fitting holes.

This is what the regulator, brackets and spring looks like. Basically the metal piece (8) fits to the beam and the spring joins it to the regulator. As the beam moves up and down the spring pulls on the regulator and increases the amount of pressure that's transferred to the brakes. To adjust it you simply slide the end of the spring along the bracket as required.

Top of this pic is the normal layout of pipes vs the bottom which is the GT G40 set up including the regulator.

cheers for the info - beam didn't have the regulator with it so is there any problem in running without it?

ta

mack

cheers for the info - beam didn't have the regulator with it so is there any problem in running without it?

ta

mack

The regulator is dependant on the weight in the back of the car.

Not 100% on this but if you dont run a regulator then you could have a 50/50 brake bias. Just thinking back to my GTs are I dont think there was ever a regulator besides the one on the rear axel.