not sure tbh, i suppose it depends how max skims your pistons, the pistons look pocketed by a few mm to me from the pics on the other page, hes going take quite alot of metal off the edge pistons before he gets to the marks caused by the valves in the pocketed centre of the piston if you get what i mean?

this might effect the cr by quite abit, although decking the block a bit will solve this, it might be worth doing some measurements and calculations before going ahead with the skimming

ecspecially since youd be fine just knocking the edges off the contact marks on the pistons and I'm sure you wouldnt have any other problems

Edited 12 March, 201115 yr by willsalter1000

Yeah i get what you mean.

I never really thought of it, I'll ask max what he was planning on doing.

Reckon it may just be worth sanding the rough bits back? Or if I'm really careful, using the dremel to take back the sticky-upy bits.

Still glad i took them out, filth in the cylinders

also, as it was sat outside it must have gotten damp and there was a incy bit of surface rust on the cylinders. Most of it went after spraying um with a bit of WD and turning the engine over. Would i be ok to give um a quick going over with some wire wool and oil to make it all shiny again?

Make sure you get the big end caps in the same order too, otherwise you may find you put them back in and the engine won't turn over

don't know how the f*ck you afford insurance! haha

an yeah get some scotchbrite to do the bores with!

Edited 12 March, 201115 yr by Iscariot

I haven't looked at insurance yet... I'll cross that bridge when it comes to it haha. Adrian flux seem nice, my insurance didn't go up when i put the GT in.

Yeah, I've put them on the little tray in order. Will mark them as i clean them too. Need a permanent marker.

Its strange, how the joins aren't a clean cut like.. just asif they were broke off Helps when putting them back on i guess, harder to get wrong.

Yeah i get what you mean.

I never really thought of it, I'll ask max what he was planning on doing.

Reckon it may just be worth sanding the rough bits back? Or if I'm really careful, using the dremel to take back the sticky-upy bits.

Still glad i took them out, filth in the cylinders

also, as it was sat outside it must have gotten damp and there was a incy bit of surface rust on the cylinders. Most of it went after spraying um with a bit of WD and turning the engine over. Would i be ok to give um a quick going over with some wire wool and oil to make it all shiny again?

ye , see what max says, he may be doing something different to what it saying, i suppose he could be putting them in a lathe and cleaning them up, knocking off the sharp edges while keeping the shape of the piston

still worth taking it apart though as you say, its a learning curve at the end of the day

regarding the bores, give them a clean up with some wire wool then go over them with a honing tool, you can pick them up pretty cheap

are you replacing the bearings and rings or just refitting the originals?

Not sure on the rings and bearings tbh.

Was gunna price it up and then see what i think. Unless they look like they could do with changing.

Any tell tale signs of excessive wear on anything? The bearings looked ok but i didn't pay a great deal of attention to them. Other than the only 1 that fell out, because I couldn't find the one it came off at 1st

That reminds me, i need a piston ring compressor.

Definitely worth buying some plastigauge for a fiver and measuring your main bearing and big end running clearances. You won't be able to tell by eye whether they're worn out or not (unless they're visibly scored or something).

This badman??

Yeah!

Need some female torx bits too. Took the pistons out with a ring spanner

For obv reasons, they cant go back in that way haha.

Edited 13 March, 201115 yr by B-shaw

Suitable honing tool...?

Clickkyyy

You just put it into a drill i guess and use at a low speed?

Honing is not as easy as you would first think... I definitely wouldn't do it with a drill, needs to be done on a mill.

If your bores are ceramic coated, honing could ruin it.... It may just need a good wire wool to break the glaze. I couldn't say without seeing it though.

They look alright to me tbh.

I think wire wool will sort it. Saves me spending on the tool. Will see what happens though.

You all missed the sneak peak of the wheels in that top picture...

Safe to that person who told me

I didn't miss them....

thought i'd edit it incase you wanted to keep shtum haha

Edited 13 March, 201115 yr by Iscariot

Edited 13 March, 201115 yr by B-shaw

Tobes,

All i was planning on doing is taking the bare minimum off the crowns until they are cleaned up, then measuring which one has had the most skimmed off and giving the rest the same so that each piston is equal. You basically need to make sure there is no material folded over towards the bores, and that none is going to chip off.

If i was you i would still maybe skim the head and even think about taking some material off the block. Problem with doing that is that you will have to use vernier pulleys if you take enough off because the distance between the cam and crank pulleys has changed.

With you going for a pretty high spec engine, i would recommend you make sure everything is sound. Having the pistons idiot the valves can cause more problems than just bent valves, Guides can crack and heads can become miss-shaped.

Just something to think about dude, Its no good going for a high spec carb'd 1.6 16v if the internals are un-healthy

Edited 15 March, 201115 yr by MaxMax

I don't think any of the valve contact was close enough to the edge of the pistons to cause anything to protrude towards the bores.

Think I'll just sand down the rough bits, clean um all up so there shiny again and shove them back in.

Fresh head so no problems there (or so i hope) Was just going to skim it to be sure its flat.

Don't wanna have to bother with verniers as they cost too much. not until i get cams anyway.

Skimming em is probably a bit unecessary, it is the sharp edges that cause detonation hotspots. Use a dremel and a carbide toolpiece and smooth over the sharp edges and they'll be alright. Not ideal but it'll work

I would go over the pistons with a fine tooth comb and also the tops of the cylinder bores for any other damage (although I'm guessing you probably already have)

Small update

These badmans arrived today

I'm slowly running out of space in my garage from all these bits lying around

Test fitted the wheels... Found a few problems but all should be fixable.

It seems all the wheels are odd

Offsets seem bang on.

On 6 is perfect, correct pcd and correct center bore.

The 2nd 6 is correct pcd, incorrect center bore (far too big)

1st 7 is correct pcd, incorrect center bore

2nd 7 is incorrect centerbore and incorrect pcd. Also, looks asif the bolts have been put in at angles to make them fit something they shouldnt

Not sure what I'm doing about this one, going to take it to a wheel place (probably compomotive, as they are closest) and see what can be done. Cant even get 2 bolts in the pcd is that far off. However the holes are small, the bolt isnt as free to move as it is in all the others. Possibly getting them drilled and wobble bolts for the one wheel may be a solution, but feck knows tbh :(

How the 7 at the back fits

I haven't looked at insurance yet... I'll cross that bridge when it comes to it haha.

Thats exactly what I'm doing could end up sucking big time but i reckon nothing will ever be as bad as insuring my type r :p

Did a bit of tinkering today in the sun.

Took the cams off the head so i can give the head to maximus at springfest, and send the cams off to be re-profiled whenever i can be bothered.

Took the clutch off, nice and rusty. Debating weather to get a new one whilst its all in bits or clean this up and yam it back on?

Attempted to get the oil filter off (2nd attempt now, 1st failed with adjustable spanner) And still got now where. Socket just slips off, bent 2 rather beefy screwdrivers..

I dont get why its on so tight? your only meant to do them up hand tight I'm going to try the same method as above but with a stronger pry bar. If that fails then god knows how I'll get it off lol. Grinder and dremel time me thinks.

Talking of the dremel... Just done this

I know this is no longer a GT, but I'm running GT badges anyway

A, the orange one is superglued to the hella grill

B, I've wanted to do the 'GenesisGT' badge for some time, so I'm sticking with it.

Something else the superglue may be playing a part in...

lol. I'm assuming its not under any pressure? And that simply gluing it back on and yamming some sealant over the join should be OK?

These things are stupidly expensive new from VW, £70 that i don't have for that tbh.

Will be fine mate it's just for crankcase fumes :)

Jon, Any idea how i can undo the bolt for the crank pulley? Need to stop the engine from turning over some how?

Could i put a block of wood inbetween the side of the block and the crank to stop it from turning?

Tried holding it still with one of the flywheel bolts, but the socket doesn't stay on um very.

bolt through the bellhousing hole and scrwdriver going against the flywheel teeth. :)

Gearbox is off though....

screwdriver on the teeth was the original plan, but because of the big metal plate that sits between the block and the fly/box theres nowhere to get a screwdriver in against the block.