Rust at the back the battery tray, under the rest bracket - Theres a few theories on this one, some say its caused by a leaking battery, others suggest its down to an oversight/design flaw. I've not seen an early mk2 with this problem as yet, so my vote is with the design flaw theory for now. To be fair though I dont think you can rule it out on any polo mk1-mk3. The solution is to cut out the old section and weld a new one in.

ah ha yes mine has gone known about it for ages i have filled it full of sealer and bit of duck tape in side lol works for now lol.

now i been trying to find where i acn buy the replacement panel as iv heard you can buy them any one know where???

if not i guss i will have to make the part my self.

injection. See my other FAQ Here for more info on that.

Link doesnt work...

does now, link was of the type used on the old forum. I imagine the other internal links don't work either.

thought i'd add to this if i may, all the figures the blue temp sensor should show at different temperatures to help diagnose faulty ones as 'how do i know its faulty?' is a common question on these.. so....

temperature-----------------------resistance

0 degrees----------------------5000-6500 ohms

10 '' '' -----------------------3250-4250 ''

20 '' '' -----------------------2200-2800 ''

30 '' '' -----------------------1500-1950 ''

40 '' '' -----------------------1000-1400 ''

50 '' '' -----------------------725-925 ''

60 '' '' -----------------------540-675 ''

70 '' '' ------------------------380-480 ''

80 '' '' ------------------------275-375 ''

90 '' '' ------------------------220-280 ''

100 '' ------------------------170-220 ''

Edited 23 November, 200718 yr by adeg40

you can blow down the breather pipe to check that its blocked. Take the oil fill cap off and you should be able to feel the air coming out of there when you blow down the pipe. The best time to do this is just before an oil change as it sends it all back to the sump.

i dont know if i have posted in the right place as i am very new to all this. I've just passed my test and have a vw polo 1.3 M reg (1995) the problem is on frequent occasions she will not start, she doesnt even turn over, all i get is a very short and wuiet whirring noise. does anyone know what the problem could be i.e starting motor, ignition problem (as i need to turn key fairly hard).

i hope i can get some idea whats wrong so i can price things up as after xmas cash flow is dim.

many thanks leanne x

hey my horn keeps going off when i turn left, is this a common.

hey my horn keeps going off when i turn left, is this a common.

Haha, not common but quite a simple fix. There must be a screw etc shorting out on the metal track behind the steering wheel. Just whip the wheel off and take a look to see what could be causing it.

hey my horn keeps going off when i turn left, is this a common.

Haha, not common but quite a simple fix. There must be a screw etc shorting out on the metal track behind the steering wheel. Just whip the wheel off and take a look to see what could be causing it.

HAHA, something similar used to happen on my mums old punto, when I brake the petrol gauge would drop to empty, and when I indicate the brakes lights would flash was pretty funny. But was just an earth strap that was not fitted correctly.

No mention of the external fuel resevoir problem?? On the old Pierbergs?? Just in case anyone needs the info - if you have problems with 'warm' starts or cutting out when warm, problem can be external fuel resevior on carb (retro-fitted as internal resevoir got too hot and fuel evaporated). If you get this, it's a simple job to bypass the resevoir. Won't help the hot restarts, but will cure the cutting out..............

:-)

i dont supose you can sort a picture out of how they have bypassed the reservoir for me please? as I'm picking up a polo with this same problem next week.

cheers

gaz

Anyone know which wire you connect the air/fuel gauge too?

according to the haynes its a lilac one, but i have 2 white a brown & a black on the car side of the multiplug.

Thanks

when i start my car in the morning,

it starts the revs drop right down and usually cuts out

but i then start it again and its fine

is this the auto choke ? or somthing else

ohh its a mk3 btw :-)

thanks

Niall

Edited 14 October, 201015 yr by niall-case

From what I remember, the external resevoir got fitted to alleviate the problems of the internal resevoir evaporating all the fuel when the engine was hot. The thing is, it tends to get blocked after a while and you get not only poor hot starts (ie when you've stopped at a services on a long M Way journey) but you get a problem where the engine just dies about 15 minutes into a journey (ie, just after it's warmed up and the fuel in the internal resevoir has evaporated).

It took me ages to get to the bottom of this on my first Polo, but once the resevoir was bypassed, the cutting out stopped - and as long as the engine wasn't TOO hot after a short stop, it curiously didn't have too many hot start problems. REALLY cheap fix too (I paid a garage to do it - cost me a fiver!!!!) and far cheaper than a new carb!!

Think it was mainly the 2E3 carbs.............but worth mentioning as another problem finding route for dodgy carbs.............

:)

Sorry to dig this up again, but how do you bypass it?

hey my horn keeps going off when i turn left, is this a common.

mine used to do the same! haha. any more and this may be common! lool

'Vague steering is ususlly caused by worn tie rod bushes. Also the bolt that supports the steering column can come loose (another mileage issue I think).'

Getting violent vibration and pulling to the left when accelerating after long periods of motorway driving, but stops after I turn hard right, is this likely to be a cause or more diff related?

1989 Polo Fox Wagon 1043cc Engine type HZ
In working out some Polo problems I am hoping that some kind owner out there may have had and fixed the same issues in the past. Also I would benefit from any advice that came with the experience of owning these little motors, eg common faults or quirks, tips for improving the factory settings, economy etc. But first my hiccups:

I recently bought the car with 50k miles aprox. - low for an '89 car but the ten year old tax disc indicated long off road storage which proved correct. Our damp climate had reulted in some corrosion of eletrical parts like the fusee box contacts and surface body rust around the scutle. My problems soon started with a sudden stall on the open road. No amount of cranking worked until it was left standing for about an hour. Then it started first time. This incident occurred twice more in the following week with same result. On each occasion I tested for a HT spark, with positive result so I suspected fuel stsrvastion or carb/jet blockage. It has the Weber 32TLA fitted. I gave it to a mechanic for a carb clean on the 4th failure. He said he did a thorough (and expensive!) job but the fault re-occurred. Found a new mechanic who fitted a new petrol pump, filter, piping, plugs, dist cap and wires. This even though I had tested the pump for spurt previously and found it strong but new pumps are not too expensive. I drove home OK but on my next short trip it cut out dead again. In disgust I left it for a month and returned to it with a new coil. Started first time. Examination showed that the old coil terminals were rusted and corroded. I also replace the non-suspect rotor. Over several hundred miles since it hasn't stalled and ticks over steadily but a new starting problem has emerged. It easily starts from cold eg first thing in the morning and similarly when hot ie within 5 mins or so of switching off. Leave it for ten minutes or twenty and it becomes a real dog, requiring much cranking and full open throttle. By this I mean that it has to be cranked for up to half a minute during which I suspect it gets flooded. I suspect the carb still but find it a bit daunting to delve into.
There is one final point that may be important:
My mechanic (the good guy) informs me that the fuel return pipe from the carb to the tank has been disconnected at the carb. I really don't know what effect this is having but I'm sure you knowledgeable folk do.

Had a look in the FAQ (v. good stuff in there but didn't find my exact prob - I think)
Any advice greatly appreciated
Tony

Forgot this-

Right alongside the current peculiar starting issue a new, if manageable prob developed; a 'flat spot in the carburretor' to quote an expression used by the oldtimers. Tickover is fine but when driving on slightly open throttle the car 'stumbles' like it's missing a beat. Pressing the pedal any farther causes it to pick up strongly and pull normally. I thought 'carb' again but of course can't be sure unless I see it taken apart and checked for gunge or anything else that may have formed in ten yrs of storage. Severe wrist issue has prevented me so far from delving in there hence the hundred Euro carb clean!
Thanks
TT