I have tried to search the forum but get no results.

Does anyone have any pics of a RD2 Tib on 18" wheels with stock suspension?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

what size castle nut tool do i need?

what size castle nut tool do i need?

haynes says its 13mm. theres a copy of the haynes manual pinned in the engines, transmission and exhaust section. You want page 117 if you want to check for yourself.

Where would I get a tool to tighten the castle nut up to torque?

This guide is spot on even down to the 2p! It doesn't take long at all but if your like me then u wanna make sure everything is clean and painted, and in good order it gives u a good chance to check all your bushes and brakes, these cars have been on the road for a while so a good clean, ( if your lucky like me ) a shot blast and paint, new disks n pads bump stops and your laughing, try n get everything first then your all set. I'd give yourself a weekend sort it all paint bushes etc then day after when all dry assemble don't rush to get on the road to try it take your time and get it right. Rears are a piece of piss to do, self explanitory really if your

not mechanicaly minded then don't bother!! Be careful with wider wheels if u drop it they will rub, I only put a 40 lower on mine and had issues many options to sort it out included rollin the arches, flaring which then means spraying! But all in all it can be done! Happy playing

Anyone got any tips for getting the castle nut off the strut on a mk3? Because my one seems to be seized solid

Anyone got any tips for getting the castle nut off the strut on a mk3? Because my one seems to be seized solid

same pal

mint guide, took the track rod off at the rack witch was much easyier, turns out ma strut tops were sound, just abit loose, castle nut wouldnt budge tho

Anyone got any tips for getting the castle nut off the strut on a mk3? Because my one seems to be seized solid

try Holts rustola, great stuff for loosing rusted nuts and bolts, way better than WD40, try heat and hitting with a hammer, power bars help too.

if its really really REALLY bad try loctite shock and release, amazing stuff but very expensive.

also mae sure you have a suitable tool.. i made a pikey one that was terrible and i could never get any grip on it.. made a better pikey one and it was sound :)

just finished disassembling one of my struts.

the castle nut was an utter biatch. made a tool, did not work.

got the hammer and chisel on it and it started moving round very very slowly with a lot of effort. took about half an hour to get it halfway off but then i gave up and have now grinded the top of the shocker off along with everything else. faster and more effective.

to anyone doing this, i highly recommend buying in a pair of castle nuts before hand, as mine are buggered and i'll have to get some tomorrow to carry on with it.

update on what i said last night... just went to VW garage, £5 per castle nut.

Small tip incase anyone has any trouble with the anti roll bar causing trouble lining up the TCA holes with the brackets on the car or if you're putting the anti roll bar back into the TCA hole on the hub end after bolting up the TCA on both ends it really helps to just put a ratchet strap round both ends of the anti roll bar and tension it untill either the holes on the TCA line up with the bracket on the car or the ends of the ARB line up with the holes on the TCA on the hub end and things will come together easily, just don't put the ratched strap over the section of the ARB that inserts in the TCA holes. Hope that makes atleast a little sense

Edited 13 December, 201213 yr by joe420

Tip:

When trying to crack the bottom ball joint so much easier if you hammer a chizzle into the joint( as in where the bolt goes through) then use a crow bar to crack it then use a fecking long pole to actually leaver it out!

So much easier than trying to fight the grip on it!!

Sam

Removing the gland nut.

Tried a 31/32 plumbers socket, but it is Taiwan chocolate steel.

Used a 3 foot Stilson and a bench vice.

(after Plusgas, WD40, wirebrush, heat gun, Jenolite freeze spray, lots of hammer taps).

Then it was nearly easy.

So thanks @skatty_01 !

The damaged plumber's socket and the ways I tried to turn it. Crows foot 1/2" drive and long 30mm socket.

I might cut off the damage and try strengthening the inside with a big nut so it can't distort.

Be nice to go straight down the turret for the other side.