truely inspirational workmanship

glad your getting interest in the shocks mate (i sent you the heads up on cf )

Edited 10 December, 200916 yr by McLOVIN

vids needed! :unibrow:

one word....

Legend!

i bet this goes like fook!

this is nuts!

Just read it from 2nd page to now

the fuel tank is amazing, Hats off to you

read from page 1 dude u made you are own fuel tank thats some next level stuff there. do u ever get stuck lol?

U.ARE.INSANE.

respect man.that is awesome. Baz

U.ARE.INSANE.

respect man.that is awesome. Baz

cheers guys only a bit of homemade modifying tbh , no never get stuck,,yes it goes and pulls really well , put it this way , it ripped a outer cv joint into bits (these were from a mk4 golf big cvs , lol gives u an idea of the torque , mind i think a guy of here used to have a red mk4 polo vr6 which he sold and bought a another sporty turboed car ,forgot what it was tbh 1.2 turbo hatch , , was rather funny , as he said , he was going to blow me off , i said ok , go for it , he came at side and floored his to limiter , i hit the gas and disappared like he was going 30mph lol , his wordsive never seen anything take off as quick as that, i was pmsl , think hes now got a 4wd gto , so nexts to blow him off , all fun ,,just instailed a 400kpa map sensor which has enoegh boost for 44psi ,, i dont think the engine will hold that mutch , as 25psi is a hand full in 4wd ,

think there a video on youtube (adaptormans channel lol)

The fabrication involved is awesome top job ..... bastard pikeys tho !

THIS IS AWESOME, NEED TO MAKE A VIDEO.

PVW NEED TO GET THIS CAR IN THERE PAGES.

GREAT WORK, AND SOME INSANE SKILLS.

THIS IS AWESOME, NEED TO MAKE A VIDEO.

PVW NEED TO GET THIS CAR IN THERE PAGES.

GREAT WORK, AND SOME INSANE SKILLS.

cheers and now up at 27psi of boost ,, 2wd waste of time has to be 4wd lol , search for adaptorman on youtube think theres one there of 8psi of boost for starters

Insane fabrication work - hats off

thats fooking class like!

Its good to see stuff like this as it is being built, most build threads like this people only put pics up after they have spent many hours tidying everything up. They dont let you see the welds and the burrs, you see too many perfect looking builds its just good to see somthing more realistic.

Cutting and welding the suspension arms to shorten them is pretty poor practice though, and a breach of C&U regs. Did you just grind em up and paint em so you cant tell?

Its good to see stuff like this as it is being built, most build threads like this people only put pics up after they have spent many hours tidying everything up. They dont let you see the welds and the burrs, you see too many perfect looking builds its just good to see somthing more realistic.

Cutting and welding the suspension arms to shorten them is pretty poor practice though, and a breach of C&U regs. Did you just grind em up and paint em so you cant tell?

nothing wrong with shorterning parts provding there are shorted and welded correctly (tig welded )and thicker tube steel is used as if u look at most car parts , they consit of , spot welds, thin steel parts, and fusion welded drivshafts, ull notice mine and all the modification is either seem welded or tig welded, i went to a company to have them made , and tbh i wasnt happy they were very poor, so i welded in some adjusters to get the rear camber and tracking correct , then re made new ones ,ps look at some on ebay 250 for a pair , and they only mild steel ,ouch i pref , to use thicker heavu gauge on anything to do with suspension tbh ,,,yes many people do build and u only see the end result tom, but as u see , i dont hide anything ,,,ill hopefully get a new video up soon too

cant wait to see it finished!

cant wait to see it finished!

cheek u have lmao , its finshed and runing chuff the body work ,,

It was this I was referring to, looks like you have just butt welded it with a stick welder, leaving a soft weak weld in the middle of a highly stressed component. However good a weld is its still a weak/brittle spot due to the recrystalisation that takes place, and you risk fatigue failure right in the middle of the component where the stresses are highest. Although I accept that for the vehicles purpose its probably adequate.

The MOT regs state

"Welded repairs to highly stressed components such as steering/suspension arms, rods, levers etc are not normally acceptable. "

I know it sounds a bit anal to point it out but its just that regualtions are getting tighter all the time to stop us modifying our own cars precisely because of people making poor judgements on what is and isnt safe. I'm sure your aware that technically you need to go through IVA test which again puts you in a world of ball ache, and I dont blame you for a second for not bothering.

The day will come when we are like the rest of europe and we arent allowed to modify our cars, only fit parts that have been TUV approved. That will be a ball ache for most people, but for those of us that make our living building custom vehicles its a killer.

It was this I was referring to, looks like you have just butt welded it with a stick welder, leaving a soft weak weld in the middle of a highly stressed component. However good a weld is its still a weak/brittle spot due to the recrystalisation that takes place, and you risk fatigue failure right in the middle of the component where the stresses are highest. Although I accept that for the vehicles purpose its probably adequate.

The MOT regs state

"Welded repairs to highly stressed components such as steering/suspension arms, rods, levers etc are not normally acceptable. "

I know it sounds a bit anal to point it out but its just that regualtions are getting tighter all the time to stop us modifying our own cars precisely because of people making poor judgements on what is and isnt safe. I'm sure your aware that technically you need to go through IVA test which again puts you in a world of ball ache, and I dont blame you for a second for not bothering.

The day will come when we are like the rest of europe and we arent allowed to modify our cars, only fit parts that have been TUV approved. That will be a ball ache for most people, but for those of us that make our living building custom vehicles its a killer.

yes if u read on youll , find , i basicaly choped stuff to get the rear axle in place , , then i added some adjusters to track and camber the rear axle correctly , after this was done , theres no , cut/chop and welded rear suspension arms , there solid box fitted , if this makes sense , reason was because i had to make sure , i could keep the vechical rolling (moveing from a to b) due to moving house ,,, hope this makes better sense,

p.s i welded the driveshafts , and they holding fine at 27psi at 1270lb of weight , so u carnt say welding isnt strong ,,,( all down to prep, and how u do it,

ps u can buy factory parts , and they break , , best way i test my driveshafts was strap my caddy to solid post and set off in full boost setting all 4 wheel burning rubber , thats usely a good sign if something gunna break , it will ,,pal

Edited 31 December, 200916 yr by ADAPTORMAN

THIS IS AWESOME, NEED TO MAKE A VIDEO.

PVW NEED TO GET THIS CAR IN THERE PAGES.

GREAT WORK, AND SOME INSANE SKILLS.

cheers and now up at 27psi of boost ,, 2wd waste of time has to be 4wd lol , search for adaptorman on youtube think theres one there of 8psi of boost for starters

27psi that is mad, lol, just seen the vid mate it was flying with 8psi cant wait to see what it can do with 27psi. its a awsome machine.

yes if u read on youll , find , i basicaly choped stuff to get the rear axle in place , , then i added some adjusters to track and camber the rear axle correctly , after this was done , theres no , cut/chop and welded rear suspension arms , there solid box fitted , if this makes sense , reason was because i had to make sure , i could keep the vechical rolling (moveing from a to b) due to moving house ,,, hope this makes better sense,

p.s i welded the driveshafts , and they holding fine at 27psi at 1270lb of weight , so u carnt say welding isnt strong ,,,( all down to prep, and how u do it,

ps u can buy factory parts , and they break , , best way i test my driveshafts was strap my caddy to solid post and set off in full boost setting all 4 wheel burning rubber , thats usely a good sign if something gunna break , it will ,,pal

In which case I apologise, I didnt realise they were just for mocking up.

I'm not going to argue the strength of welding because anyone who has anything to do with metallurgy will realise that the way the joint is formed creates basically the grain structure of a casting in a component that may well have been hot or cold worked to achieve a strength fit for its purpose.

It is cool that the driveshafts hold though, I've always sat on the fence with welded driveshafts, purely because they save you soooo much money. But I would put money on it that you didnt just butt weld them together.

Awesome motor though, and I'm pretty sure that the 3.2 with 2bar of boost must be putting out 600bhp+? easy.

yes if u read on youll , find , i basicaly choped stuff to get the rear axle in place , , then i added some adjusters to track and camber the rear axle correctly , after this was done , theres no , cut/chop and welded rear suspension arms , there solid box fitted , if this makes sense , reason was because i had to make sure , i could keep the vechical rolling (moveing from a to b) due to moving house ,,, hope this makes better sense,

p.s i welded the driveshafts , and they holding fine at 27psi at 1270lb of weight , so u carnt say welding isnt strong ,,,( all down to prep, and how u do it,

ps u can buy factory parts , and they break , , best way i test my driveshafts was strap my caddy to solid post and set off in full boost setting all 4 wheel burning rubber , thats usely a good sign if something gunna break , it will ,,pal

In which case I apologise, I didnt realise they were just for mocking up.

I'm not going to argue the strength of welding because anyone who has anything to do with metallurgy will realise that the way the joint is formed creates basically the grain structure of a casting in a component that may well have been hot or cold worked to achieve a strength fit for its purpose.

It is cool that the driveshafts hold though, I've always sat on the fence with welded driveshafts, purely because they save you soooo much money. But I would put money on it that you didnt just butt weld them together.

Awesome motor though, and I'm pretty sure that the 3.2 with 2bar of boost must be putting out 600bhp+? easy.

if u read the full therd youll find you are answers regards modification tom, most of my welding skills came from working in steel fabrication , so I'm not behind the door on welding,,, my 3.2 isnt runing 2bar???? its runing 25psi , unsure if you are up on these engines and turbos ,due to the turbo spec , its been modifyed for track boost not road boost , meaning more laggy then a stock turbo , as i have full boost at 4200rpm , wer normal turbos have a start spool of 2500/and run off off boost 4500/5000rpm as then ull see the torque curve drop ,this turbo i use still pulls clean to the rev limiter 7400rpm ,so evern thow its runing 27psi , it maybe only 450bhp , were some cars can run 15psi for for around 400bhp ,

27psi is close enough to 2 bar for me lol.

Yeah I have done a bit with turbos . So you have a larger comp with a large diffuser gap, and to stop it surging a large turbine housing to keep it further up the revs, sounds good. Like you say most turbos are sized a bit on the small side for drivability, so by the time you get further up the rev range the compressor efficiency is right down and it it blowing hot air on the far side of the map. As they say if you dont have any lag then you have the wrong turbo. It would be great to get a HE351Ve on as thats pretty much the variable geometry version of the HX40 you have (unless its a 35 but I think its a 40?) but they are massive and not the easyest things to actuate without writing your own software.

Even so though surely you must be well over 450bhp, arent the 3.2's like 240bhp N/A?. I have never had anything to do with those engines but I know if you had 2 bar of boost on say a nissan RB30, even with a SOHC cylinder head you should be well over 500bhp.

Its cool, and a good car for the strip too. There were a couple of golfs at york last season with a similar setup (albeit with 1.8T's) I think with the bottles hooked up they were both approaching 600bhp, and watching them launch was fantastic. Although one of them did burst his plenum on the start line as it was only made out of 4mm ally.

27psi is close enough to 2 bar for me lol.

Yeah I have done a bit with turbos . So you have a larger comp with a large diffuser gap, and to stop it surging a large turbine housing to keep it further up the revs, sounds good. Like you say most turbos are sized a bit on the small side for drivability, so by the time you get further up the rev range the compressor efficiency is right down and it it blowing hot air on the far side of the map. As they say if you dont have any lag then you have the wrong turbo. It would be great to get a HE351Ve on as thats pretty much the variable geometry version of the HX40 you have (unless its a 35 but I think its a 40?) but they are massive and not the easyest things to actuate without writing your own software.

Even so though surely you must be well over 450bhp, arent the 3.2's like 240bhp N/A?. I have never had anything to do with those engines but I know if you had 2 bar of boost on say a nissan RB30, even with a SOHC cylinder head you should be well over 500bhp.

Its cool, and a good car for the strip too. There were a couple of golfs at york last season with a similar setup (albeit with 1.8T's) I think with the bottles hooked up they were both approaching 600bhp, and watching them launch was fantastic. Although one of them did burst his plenum on the start line as it was only made out of 4mm ally.

hi tom yes its a hx40 but with a 14hotside , yearh had to write th software for the engine to run over a stock 100kpa map , works well , provideing the fueling,spark map, fuel table, crank decoder settings are correct , along other ecu settings tom,i had to make the twinscroll manifold to spool the turbo which seems to work well providing , ps u can make the same amount of bhp without runing as mutch boost , just advance timing instead instead bu then u have to watchout for engine knock/deteration , as it blows pistons within seconds of tuning, yes the stock r32 is 240 bhp , but mins a hybrid meaning 2.8 block and r32 head so its around 230stock then dropping the compression to run boost u lose more bhp to allow for more boost, if i could advance the timing safty in boost it would , but its very tricky , my manifold is only mig welded box 2mm thick and never seen it blow as yet , as I'm just making a alloy one instead , may flow better ,,

when you going to sort the body work out mate

leaving the body work rough ,, sleeper look , I've also been building a earlyer engine , consists of a mk3 12v vr6 with a r32 crank , rods and machinced stock pistons , and made another turbo manifold , etc , just been a little bisy at mo makinf some tvr manifolds for a ac colbra ,,,