Really? How would it compare to say, a G40 accel wise? My bro has a bike engine in his LoCost. And that bastard pulls, like you say, right through the rev range. But thats a bike engine. I wasn't too sure how it would work on an engine, i wasnt aware of how popular it was! Theres a good place at silverstone down the road from me that i would take it to, i've heard they are good. Is a RR session what you'd recomend? When you say southam though, do you mean in Southam in Warks?

How long would you say it took you to put the bike carb set up on? If everything was ready to bolt on? Also, whats this SS manifold? That from bogg bros? I was thinking of making my own, with some silicone hose an top hat flanges, like some folks do. Would work aye?

H&S

Well I've never been in a G40 but this is the same if not a bit quicker than a 200sx Turbo which have 200bhp and a 0-60 of 7.5secs.

Yeah a RR session is well recommended. I don't really have a clue when it comes to setting it al up but as I said it ran ok without any setup at all (perhaps I was just lucky). Yep Southam in Warks. I was pointed to them by Stealth Racing in Southam as people who have done bike carbs before and they are really top guys.

It takes no time to put the setup on as there isn't much to it at all. you need a electronic fuel pump and filter/regulator but other than that, plumb in it and bolt it on.

Sorry I meant a Stainless Steel exhaust Manifold, but the inlet manifold was made by Bogg Brothers and they did a strip and re-jet of the carbs as well.

Yes it would work but the only downside would be is that there will be bumps and the like in the inlet manifold where the hose joins the top-hats. If you can get the proper joining rubbers for the bike carbs these have recesses in them so once fitted there is a smooth flow through the whole of the inlet. I'm not sure it would make that much difference as many people do it the way you have said and it does work.

You can have a look at my build thread

My Build Thread as it has lots of info of what I've done.

Why does it need an electric pump then, does the mechanical one not provide enough pressure? Is the leccy one in addition to the standard one too?

Regulator, whats that, and where would i find one?

mmmmm, i didnt think about the flow issues of the top hat flanges etc, but i only want something for a few months, whilst i build my new engine/car, so this may be just the job. I'm not looking for oodles of grunt just yet, but that sounds awesome, against the 200sx

Southams just down the road from me actually (I'm in banbury, well, close to). Were they expsnsive btw?

H&S

Why does it need an electric pump then, does the mechanical one not provide enough pressure? Is the leccy one in addition to the standard one too?

Regulator, whats that, and where would i find one?

mmmmm, i didnt think about the flow issues of the top hat flanges etc, but i only want something for a few months, whilst i build my new engine/car, so this may be just the job. I'm not looking for oodles of grunt just yet, but that sounds awesome, against the 200sx

Southams just down the road from me actually (I'm in banbury, well, close to). Were they expsnsive btw?

H&S

The engine I'm using was a fuel injection engine (1.4 16v out of a Mk4 Polo) so didn't come with a mechanical fuel pump. If you have one then I'm sure it will provide enough fuel (and pressure) for bike carbs. My pump is rated to 4-5psi and bike carbs need 2-3psi so the regulator just regulates the pressure to the required level. But if you are using a mechanical pump then that should be about the pressure you need anyway I would have thought.

Oh I'm sure that using top hat flanges will work.. if fact it does work and its loads cheaper that getting a manifold made its just not as finished.

They charge £70 for the first hour and £40 per hour after that. It took them about 4 hours to do my car.

I was thinking of making my own, with some silicone hose an top hat flanges, like some folks do. Would work aye?

H&S

Yes it would work but the only downside would be is that there will be bumps and the like in the inlet manifold where the hose joins the top-hats. If you can get the proper joining rubbers for the bike carbs these have recesses in them so once fitted there is a smooth flow through the whole of the inlet.

The problem with them is they're too short for flanges,unless you space the carbs out to the same as the ports,and that brings its own problems.

I've used industrial wire-reinforced PVC tubing,and got it all smooth on the inside by heating it up and stretching it over slightly bigger flanges (they're 42mm internal,the carb outlet is 37mm,and the tubing internal diameter is 40mm).

I also knife-edged the flanges to suit - the carb outlet is already adequately profiled for this,and its ramped down anyway - see dodgy sketch..

You do have to be careful when porting the head to accept round flanges though,as there's not much meat on the flat lower part. I've actually drawn the circle a bit too small in the pic. You can feel how much alloy there is from behind the clamp face,though. I removed more from the top sides than the pic indicates - but i dont know how much its safe to trim there.

I was thinking of making my own, with some silicone hose an top hat flanges, like some folks do. Would work aye?

H&S

Yes it would work but the only downside would be is that there will be bumps and the like in the inlet manifold where the hose joins the top-hats. If you can get the proper joining rubbers for the bike carbs these have recesses in them so once fitted there is a smooth flow through the whole of the inlet.

The problem with them is they're too short for flanges,unless you space the carbs out to the same as the ports,and that brings its own problems.

I've used industrial wire-reinforced PVC tubing,and got it all smooth on the inside by heating it up and stretching it over slightly bigger flanges (they're 42mm internal,the carb outlet is 37mm,and the tubing internal diameter is 40mm).

I also knife-edged the flanges to suit - the carb outlet is already adequately profiled for this,and its ramped down anyway - see dodgy sketch..

You do have to be careful when porting the head to accept round flanges though,as there's not much meat on the flat lower part. I've actually drawn the circle a bit too small in the pic. You can feel how much alloy there is from behind the clamp face,though. I removed more from the top sides than the pic indicates - but i dont know how much its safe to trim there.

You related to piccasso? Thanks, thats handy. I might just sweet talk my bro into making me one, looking at max_crox, there doesn't seem to be much to it. Despite what i said earlier in the thread, I'm now doing this on a budget (plans changed ) although i am now totally undecided whether to do a full conversion (like max_crox) or bike carb my current car and super charge the spare. AGGGGHHH!!! Decisions Decisions. Anyone advise?

Thanks again

H&S

Why does it need an electric pump then, does the mechanical one not provide enough pressure? Is the leccy one in addition to the standard one too?

Regulator, whats that, and where would i find one?

mmmmm, i didnt think about the flow issues of the top hat flanges etc, but i only want something for a few months, whilst i build my new engine/car, so this may be just the job. I'm not looking for oodles of grunt just yet, but that sounds awesome, against the 200sx

Southams just down the road from me actually (I'm in banbury, well, close to). Were they expsnsive btw?

H&S

The engine I'm using was a fuel injection engine (1.4 16v out of a Mk4 Polo) so didn't come with a mechanical fuel pump. If you have one then I'm sure it will provide enough fuel (and pressure) for bike carbs. My pump is rated to 4-5psi and bike carbs need 2-3psi so the regulator just regulates the pressure to the required level. But if you are using a mechanical pump then that should be about the pressure you need anyway I would have thought.

Oh I'm sure that using top hat flanges will work.. if fact it does work and its loads cheaper that getting a manifold made its just not as finished.

They charge £70 for the first hour and £40 per hour after that. It took them about 4 hours to do my car.

Not cheap are they! Then again, the full conversion couldn't have cost too much eh?

Are those engines pretty good then, the 1.4's? Your description of the drive home actually put a smile on my face, so i think i may have been sold on this idea now. Seems a lot less hassle than trying to supercharge (and cheaper!) my current engine.

So apart from the engine mount, it slotted in fine did it? No massive problems? i didnt read the full thread, but everything seemed to go to plan. And you dont use the choke? Did you run a advance from the dizzy too?

Also, the rev counter nonsense was handy too, i'v been looking for this solution too. Looks like you have built the car i'm about to build

H&S

Why do you need two compromised cars? I've put all my efforts into one and its all i need.

Its not like the chassis can handle any more.

Why do you need two compromised cars? I've put all my efforts into one and its all i need.

Its not like the chassis can handle any more.

ATM, ones a standard 1.3, and it gives next to no performance, just looking for a quick fix (i.e bike carbs! Probs not so quick!) The other car is basically a rolling wreck, so putting a lot of effort into that to make it something v.special and different. Also, have a spare engine which i'd like to do something with. But i think I'm going to stick with the old 1.3 standard for now, whilst doing a bike carb conversion on a 1.4 (like Max_Crox has done). It seems silly to, like you say, compromise both cars. Atm, i just have so many ideas flying around my head, and want to do them all!

H&S

Why does it need an electric pump then, does the mechanical one not provide enough pressure? Is the leccy one in addition to the standard one too?

Regulator, whats that, and where would i find one?

mmmmm, i didnt think about the flow issues of the top hat flanges etc, but i only want something for a few months, whilst i build my new engine/car, so this may be just the job. I'm not looking for oodles of grunt just yet, but that sounds awesome, against the 200sx

Southams just down the road from me actually (I'm in banbury, well, close to). Were they expsnsive btw?

H&S

The engine I'm using was a fuel injection engine (1.4 16v out of a Mk4 Polo) so didn't come with a mechanical fuel pump. If you have one then I'm sure it will provide enough fuel (and pressure) for bike carbs. My pump is rated to 4-5psi and bike carbs need 2-3psi so the regulator just regulates the pressure to the required level. But if you are using a mechanical pump then that should be about the pressure you need anyway I would have thought.

Oh I'm sure that using top hat flanges will work.. if fact it does work and its loads cheaper that getting a manifold made its just not as finished.

They charge £70 for the first hour and £40 per hour after that. It took them about 4 hours to do my car.

Oh, and btw, whats that extra pipe coming off your exhaust manifold?

H&S

So apart from the engine mount, it slotted in fine did it? No massive problems? i didnt read the full thread, but everything seemed to go to plan. And you dont use the choke? Did you run a advance from the dizzy too?

Also, the rev counter nonsense was handy too, i'v been looking for this solution too. Looks like you have built the car i'm about to build

H&S

As have i - externally its an AFH,only the internals are different. I used a choke. And vac advance.

Best thing you can do is read Max's thread all the way through as well as this one,and also THIS one all the way through,because i cant think of anything missing (Renegade also has one in progress,in 'MK3' members gallery).

So apart from the engine mount, it slotted in fine did it? No massive problems? i didnt read the full thread, but everything seemed to go to plan. And you dont use the choke? Did you run a advance from the dizzy too?

Also, the rev counter nonsense was handy too, i'v been looking for this solution too. Looks like you have built the car i'm about to build

H&S

As have i - externally its an AFH,only the internals are different. I used a choke. And vac advance.

Best thing you can do is read Max's thread all the way through as well as this one,and also THIS one all the way through,because i cant think of anything missing (Renegade also has one in progress,in 'MK3' members gallery).

Yeah, i did sit and read max's all the way through (slow afternoon!) and it looks easy(ish!). An i'll have a read back through this too when the time comes for the actual build

Thanks a lot though, I'm sure all these questions become a bit tedious for people who have heard them all before, muh appreciated. Now i just need to find out which cars these engines come in!

H&S

3f - polo GT 1.3

ABD - Mk3 golf 1.4

AEE - mk4 polo 1.6

AFH - mk4 polo 1.4 16v

Thanks a lot though, I'm sure all these questions become a bit tedious for people who have heard them all before, muh appreciated. Now i just need to find out which cars these engines come in!

H&S

The capital 'THIS' in my above thread is a link,though I'm sure you've seen it.

There are two sides to all this.

I didnt copy others,i only found out someone had used a 1.6 after i thought to do so,and learn't the hard way what worked and what didnt. All my research and development came at a price,but I've learnt an awful lot in the process.

So when people just want all the answers,well..

On the flip side though,its wise one who only cracks on with a job once they have all the resources - namely knowledge. Gathering as much info as you can first,well that's got to be sensible.

And that's why i dont mind sharing what I've learnt,so fire away. What i would ask is to make sure you read what's already been posted - as its frustrating/annoying/tedious when people keep giving out the same info all the time.

Thanks a lot though, I'm sure all these questions become a bit tedious for people who have heard them all before, muh appreciated. Now i just need to find out which cars these engines come in!

H&S

The capital 'THIS' in my above thread is a link,though I'm sure you've seen it.

There are two sides to all this.

I didnt copy others,i only found out someone had used a 1.6 after i thought to do so,and learn't the hard way what worked and what didnt. All my research and development came at a price,but I've learnt an awful lot in the procesin! s.

So when people just want all the answers,well..

On the flip side though,its wise one who only cracks on with a job once they have all the resources - namely knowledge. Gathering as much info as you can first,well that's got to be sensible.

And that's why i dont mind sharing what I've learnt,so fire away. What i would ask is to make sure you read what's already been posted - as its frustrating/annoying/tedious when people keep giving out the same info all the time.

Thats what i'm trying to do, gain as much knowledge before i attempt anything. I made a fair few mistakes, and learnt a lot on my last project. There's just nothing worse than spending a load of money on something that doesnt work, or immediately breaks or some such. I have read most of the stuff on here on bike carbs etc. but just wanted some more up to date stuff and actual advice from people who have done it. Cause no doubt, since finishing, you have come up against more problems or could offer more advice.

But it is a constant learning curve, and thats the interest i guess

Thanks for all your help, again :-D

H&S

3f - polo GT 1.3

ABD - Mk3 golf 1.4

AEE - mk4 polo 1.6

AFH - mk4 polo 1.4 16v

Excellent, much help. I've seen a lot of othe engines like AEQ and AEX (or something), are they just variations of the same engine, and do they fit. Bearing in mind i only want the block and head (oh, and they have to fit to a mkII gear box).

Thanks!

H&S

Not sure about post 2005 Polo's,but otherwise,all petrol engines take the 085/8P box. But gearboxes post 1994 have the offside flange too wide,and require the engine shifted 5mm to the nearside to prevent damage to the offside driveshaft.

Not sure about post 2005 Polo's,but otherwise,all petrol engines take the 085/8P box. But gearboxes post 1994 have the offside flange too wide,and require the engine shifted 5mm to the nearside to prevent damage to the offside driveshaft.

Right. So i really want a pre-94 box then, to avoid further mods? Not wanting to faff around with that sorta guff!

H&S

I just used a lump hammer on the gearbox mounts and filed the slot longer in the engine mount - it was no big deal.

But whatever box you get,its health is everything - signs of an oil leak,especially with dry filler plug,is not good - as they need to be kept topped up.

I just used a lump hammer on the gearbox mounts and filed the slot longer in the engine mount - it was no big deal.

But whatever box you get,its health is everything - signs of an oil leak,especially with dry filler plug,is not good - as they need to be kept topped up.

Right, i see. I'll bear it in mind. ATM, i dont have the parts, so i guess I'm kinda free with what i get. Tell me about gear-box health. Mine siezed last year at a music festival. Terrible!

H&S

BTW Mike, seeing as you have done it, how would you rate the AEE (1.6 8v?) against the AFH (thats 1.4 16v right?)? Talking acceleration wise here

H&S

Just finished doing my conversion on the AEX 1.4 8v found in the mk4 polo's (with quite abit of mikeymk's help, cheers man! ) ) and so far I would say its pretty good, seems to be more torquey. Took a while and some messing about to get it running alright but is worth it. Just drove a 200 mile trip and seems to be better on fuel aswell which is always a good thing. Will be setting it up on the rolling road next thursday so will know what power and torque gains I've got.

All in all cost me about £200 for everything, made the manifold myself using the top hat flanges and marine fuel hose which is nice and strong.

Is a pretty simple conversion when you've got all the bits, could do it in a day quite happily, specially when you don't have an ECU to mess about with like I did.

Just finished doing my conversion on the AEX 1.4 8v found in the mk4 polo's (with quite abit of mikeymk's help, cheers man! ) ) and so far I would say its pretty good, seems to be more torquey. Took a while and some messing about to get it running alright but is worth it. Just drove a 200 mile trip and seems to be better on fuel aswell which is always a good thing. Will be setting it up on the rolling road next thursday so will know what power and torque gains I've got.

All in all cost me about £200 for everything, made the manifold myself using the top hat flanges and marine fuel hose which is nice and strong.

Is a pretty simple conversion when you've got all the bits, could do it in a day quite happily, specially when you don't have an ECU to mess about with like I did.

So did it bolt straight in then? How many valves does it have? DOHC? Be interestedto see figures

H&S

Yea it was pretty much bolt straight on, I used the vacuum advanced distibutor and ignition system from the mk2 polo which was bolt straight on. The flanges were pretty easy to make using a lathe and just got the placement for the bolt holes from the inlet manifold as there is no gasket. The vacuum pipe for the distributor were daisy chained from the flanges using some brass joiners resined into them.

Its only the 8 valve 1.4, will have figures posted up next week, started with 64bhp so will hopefully be abit more than that.

Sounds good. Look forward to seeing figures

H&S

Goose - great to hear,mate. No one believed me when i said they're more economical than injection,so that's refreshing,too. Like the sound?

H&S - i think the 1.6 8v is too torque-biased for the light car (Could try a GT cam,though). Sure,it pulls like a train,but i expect the 1.4 16v to be more progressive and tractable,suiting the little go-kart better - i dont know,I've never ran it. The 1.4 8v had a better nature,though.

.....,but i expect the 1.4 16v to be more progressive and tractable,suiting the little go-kart better - i dont know,I've never ran it.....

It seems to work really well... I would like to see what Heg's one is like as well. I have a GT box in mine which for long journeys can be a bit tiring but it did 500mile round trip sitting at 3-4000rpm fine.