Hopefully,yes.

Wicked. Although i may go with your diesel plan, i'm considering N2O (one idea at a time Simon )

H&S

Good Stuff.

Now to start collecting parts!

H&S

The most ideal is likely to be the full 16v clutch kit for a 1.4 16v.

Especially for those running one in the considerably lighter pre-'94 cars.

But then,if the GTi 1.6 16v item fits,that'd surely be better.

The most ideal is likely to be the full 16v clutch kit for a 1.4 16v.

Especially for those running one in the considerably lighter pre-'94 cars.

But then,if the GTi 1.6 16v item fits,that'd surely be better.

I'd aim to use basically what was supplied originally i guess. Whats the box on the AFH like? Is it like the GT; close ratios and short top end?

H&S

No,it has sensible ratios but it'll probably have taken a pounding - the box was shot on the one i got my AFH from,and i suppose i'll be lucky if my current one holds up as long as the clutch.

What ratio's you want are down to you,but dont ask me about them because there are over fifty different codes/combinations.

Some people have kindly listed the odd handful,but even for those with ETKA,it'd take many hours to list them all.

If running a 1.6 8v,you want the longest ratio's possible.

A 1.4 16v,and i guess you'd want quite intermediate,but still quite a long fifth.

But I'm biased on the longer drives because I'm an efficiency monkey and traction is enough of a challenge with triple bhp figures anyway.

No,it has sensible ratios but it'll probably have taken a pounding - the box was shot on the one i got my AFH from,and i suppose i'll be lucky if my current one holds up as long as the clutch.

What ratio's you want are down to you,but dont ask me about them because there are over fifty different codes/combinations.

Some people have kindly listed the odd handful,but even for those with ETKA,it'd take many hours to list them all.

If running a 1.6 8v,you want the longest ratio's possible.

A 1.4 16v,and i guess you'd want quite intermediate,but still quite a long fifth.

But I'm biased on the longer drives because I'm an efficiency monkey and traction is enough of a challenge with triple bhp figures anyway.

Yeah, i'm the same. I'm not looking for a quater-mile runner, and i dont need to accelerate in 5th. Barely get to fifth around my area anyhow, so it'll be nice to have a taller one for the longer journeys, which i plan to use ot on regularly. I'm thinking a MKII/III 1.3 5spd. Thats what i have on atm, and its not oo bad efficiency wise.

H&S

8p i believe it is btw

H&S

Sorry to hijack this thread, but i have found it exrtremely helpful so far, and there are clearly some very helpful and knowledgable people involved in it. I have a 1.4 16v AFH and have been seriously thinking about carbing it. I spoke to a localish company and was quoted around £1000 to £1300 for it to be done and set up. Does this sound a bit much? What should it cost me? Also would Webbers or bike carbs be best.

Any help greatly appreciated

Neil

Sorry to hijack this thread, but i have found it exrtremely helpful so far, and there are clearly some very helpful and knowledgable people involved in it. I have a 1.4 16v AFH and have been seriously thinking about carbing it. I spoke to a localish company and was quoted around £1000 to £1300 for it to be done and set up. Does this sound a bit much? What should it cost me? Also would Webbers or bike carbs be best.

Any help greatly appreciated

Neil

Having not done it myself, but since reading almost EVERYTHING on this site about it, that sounds like a rip off! You can get a bank of bike carbs for 30-80 quid on ebay. You could make your own inlet, or boggbros do one for around 200 quid. Then a session on a rolling road to set everything set up

Having considered both myself, i'm going to go with bike carbs myself. Cheap, and relatively easy (though ask me again in a few months about that bit!) with a bit of NOS too i think!

H&S

Sorry to hijack this thread, but i have found it exrtremely helpful so far, and there are clearly some very helpful and knowledgable people involved in it. I have a 1.4 16v AFH and have been seriously thinking about carbing it. I spoke to a localish company and was quoted around £1000 to £1300 for it to be done and set up. Does this sound a bit much? What should it cost me? Also would Webbers or bike carbs be best.

Any help greatly appreciated

Neil

Having not done it myself, but since reading almost EVERYTHING on this site about it, that sounds like a rip off! You can get a bank of bike carbs for 30-80 quid on ebay. You could make your own inlet, or boggbros do one for around 200 quid. Then a session on a rolling road to set everything set up

Having considered both myself, i'm going to go with bike carbs myself. Cheap, and relatively easy (though ask me again in a few months about that bit!) with a bit of NOS too i think!

H&S

Thanks for the very quick reply. So should £500 be a resonable estimated cost?

Thanks

Neil

I'll do it for £450?

I'll do it for £450?

What would you say is a reasonable price to pay?

Cheers

Neil

I'll do it for £450?

What would you say is a reasonable price to pay?

Cheers

Neil

From what i'v been told, i reckon you could get it for under 500 yeah, including your rolling road setup session.

H&S

To be fair on the garage,its all very well being able to do a conversion for under three ton in a weekend but they've got to make a living.

I can do a cambelt/oil change in an hour or two,and it'll cost me under fifty quid. But you're gonna be into triple figures at a garage. And that's a standard protocol job (yet probably still offers a few rounded bolts and broken clips to contend with).

If you want to give them a custom project like bike carbs,its gonna cost you.

I've had research and development to do,I've converted to sprung fuel hose clips so they maintain a grip as the rubber hose squashes (unlike Jubilees,which are set to size once fitted). I used chemical metal,threaded rod,rubber insulators and earth terminals to fabricate the carb-head brackets,having improved the design over the previous crimped steel tubing. And i used the early MK2 choke cable,which took time to source.

Garages dont need these challenges,they just wanna wrap each job up with minimum fuss.

Thanks for the helpful advice. I'm still having trouble finding a garage that is able to set the carbs up properly. I thought AMD Tuning in Essex would have done it, but they say they can't, and only pointed me towards Bogg Bros, the other side of the country. Does anyone know of any garages in the south east that can set them up, or does anyone on here possess the skills.

Many thanks

Neil

Not too interested in twin 40's. though i said money was no option, these can be a little pricey. Its not as if i have unlimited funds, so maybe i should have said money is not a restriction, within reason.

if twin webers are too expensive for you then you might as well stop thinking along the lines of superchagers too as that would work out a shit load more expensive

there was a photo posted on here ages ago where some one was trying to use bike carbs and a superchager together, never heard any thing else of it tho so guessing it didn't work. the thing is bike carbs ain't designed to have air forced into them so you'd probably just blow all the seals as soon as you tried to start it. although saying that some super bikes do get turbo's retro fitted to them (and a few fitted from the factory), maybe they use throttle bodys tho? i'm not sure but that could be an option for you? but you'd still need to run some kind of engine management i would of thought. the problem is cost, just buying all the parts and getting the engine built to take it is going to be very expensive, and that's before you add the cost of all custom fabrication and the cost of getting it set up and running right. even supercharging your engine using G40 parts would work out more expensive and probably less reliable than just fitting a G40 conversion.

also you would still need to run the G40 ecu on your engine to control fueling, what about using a carb off a R5GTT? then use the ignition off of a carbed polo? that would get rid of the need for an ECU, but you'd still have to get a inlet manifold fabricated to get it to fit on your engine. not sure how well that set up would work together tho, just thinking out loud...

i will jump in off your section as it fits with what i was thinking, this is not a cheep option and would require a lot of fettling also i would like to add that me and my mates (most of which are mechanical engineers) have only worked this out in theory;-

if you take a small block engine capable of withstanding high velocity pressur and of shedding weight (lightened throws crank shaft, con rods fly wheel ect), so i think a good chioce would be the g40 block running low compression.

and take the throttle bodies and supercharger of a hyabuser along with the right cam, use some ingenuity and a custom ecu and mapping.

you should acheive much higher reving machine than that of the standard g40 charger on a similar block set up

this would be mainly due to the pressure that the charger runs with each port being individualy aspirated instead of flowing through a 1-4 inlet manifold

correct m if I'm wrong as this is something we are wanting to build to see if it works

Thanks for the helpful advice. I'm still having trouble finding a garage that is able to set the carbs up properly. I thought AMD Tuning in Essex would have done it, but they say they can't, and only pointed me towards Bogg Bros, the other side of the country. Does anyone know of any garages in the south east that can set them up, or does anyone on here possess the skills.

Many thanks

Neil

this will not help you achieve maximum power and you will have to purchase a decent bike carbs balancer 40 sqids

first balance the idle screws using the balancer till all the cabs read all the same air flow pressure and the idle sit just below 10,000

then hold revs at around 40,000 (by inserting sum kind of spacer on the throttle cable)

and balance the carbs this time via the main mixture screw. as i said this will not sort out maximum power as you need a rolling road to do that

but it will help it run smoother for the time being.