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6N Rally Polo

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www.vwmotorsport.com

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www.vwmotorsport.com

Been scrolling around on that website for ages now, loads of info to be found there! I myself have been favoring the Lupo GTI Cup specifications file, particularly how they inforce the wishbone+subframe, and strut the rear-beam!

And you've got yourself a decent project going on there! Got going with all the quality rally-prep involved!

Your building my dream car!!

  • 2 months later...
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Well, slight update - finishing off the car tonight with some bucket seats (2 + mounts weigh less than a single standard front seat!), got my first proper rally in either Feb or March (dates to be confirmed) and some tweaking

Springs are getting made up to spec (I'm keeping the stock suspension and beefing up the springs) - if I don't have enough ride height, I'll be looking for some coilovers - but they'll probably be custom jobs :( Rear ARB is on going on order (or I'll get some steel bar and make one), so that should give me some nice tripod-age!

You'll be lucky to find any challenge car bits any more really. I know people running challenge cars that are making do with servicing with what they have.

Out of interest, the challenge cars were built to N1, they had remote canister proflex on them as standard, with a VWM ECU, OMP grp N exhaust, grp N paddle clutch (helix), close ratio straight cut box (optional, no idea who made it)

the sequential box you have seen is actually S1600, the homologation catalogue for the polo covers right upto the 6N2 S1600 cars, which had the gemini 6sp seq box fitting, be aware though, that to fit one, (even though they are "about" for 4-5k for the box) you need VWM shafts (equal length), you need to cut and weld a box into the foot well to accomodate the equal length shafts, and you need VWM front hubs and uprights.

and then, the ratios might be rubbish!

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I had a word with a rep from the company that took over gemini (ricardo engineering?) and they said that VWM made the original boxes for the group N cars, the gemini's were for the later cars I think - I was hoping for an uprated one, but I'll probably be as well to just keep using the original box or figure out how to get an 02J/02A in there (I'm actually wondering about Lupo six speed!)

Similar story with the suspension - Proflex made it initially, then sold the plans/designs to VWM who made the remainder. Are you sure about OMP and the exhaust? The VWM catalogue lists remus as the exhaust maker - not that it matters too much - I'll be getting a custom rear section made up as I know a guy who's great with a TIG welder!

Welded my cross braces and bolted in the seat brackets and seats last night - now it feels properly like a rally car - can feel so much more with these seats than with the stock items, it's awesome! Plus we have some snow, so I'm going to have to go for some fun with my friend Mr Handbrake tonight

you be careful christof :lol:

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you be careful christof :lol:

Don't know what you could possible mean :unibrow:

  • 2 weeks later...
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Some more goodies turned up in preparation for some serious road warrioring

DSC_0214.jpg

Thats a conversion kit to change wheel bolts to studs, and convert stock shock absorbers into height adjustables with 2.25" ID springs - stock suspension is too soft, ride height gets lowered far too much with most coil-over kits, so customised stockers is the cheap and rat option :D

300LB springs, 100LB helpers are also on order, should give a nice progressive rate and be stiff enough for track use as well (looking into customised struts right now - but at £300 per corner, it's not cheap!)

Edited by majic79

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Started with two standard shockers (and 2 spares, JIC) and converted them by removing the old spring cups

DSC_0218.jpg

Welding on a threaded sleeve, and installing some shiny new springs

DSC_0221.jpg

So far - seems to be an improvement in ride (firmer) - only slightly more bounce than stock (it'd certainly benefit from a set of firmer or adjustable dampers)

One burst as we welded the top of the sleeve on, so we had to cut it off and weld onto one of the spares (same part number on the side, so I was comfortable with it) - it turns out that the inner tube is not connected at the bottom, so it drops out quite easily, so it's going to become an upside down monotube, as I can get universal inserts (adjustable, re-valveable!), I just need to make sure I get one with the right sized retaining pin

I don't really understand why you've taken on the hassle of modding the original springs and didn't just bought yourself a decent pair of coilovers straight away?

because coilovers are shortend, he's building a rally car not a show car, the coilovers would be far to short.

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because coilovers are shortend, he's building a rally car not a show car, the coilovers would be far to short.

Got it in one, I've got to raise the ride height from stock, by about 2inches - I've got 15" wheels with gravel offroad tyres to fit as well. My first event that includes offroad sections (around 26 miles of it!) is in three weeks time, plus I've found in the tarmac rallies, the stock suspension is far too soft, so this is all round win as far as I'm concerned (a cost of £21 per side for the struts, vs £300 per corner for the cheapest monotubes, or £2k per corner for full rally spec suspension)

I've got some spare strut legs, I'm planning on converting them to inverted monotubes as well

Edited by majic79

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I don't really understand why you've taken on the hassle of modding the original springs and didn't just bought yourself a decent pair of coilovers straight away?

I didn't do anything to the springs, it's the shock absorbers I've modded - springs are cheap (I can get springs made to any size I want for about £50 per spring, or motorsport sized springs at £15 each for the common sizes), dampers are not - looking at prices starting at £150 for cheap fronts (twin-tube adjustable, shortened and threaded bodies) or £300 for better (double adjustable, re-buildable, revalveable monotubes)

When you go out on a rally and you know they're likely to get broken, your concern comes down to your wallet - if you have a thick one, good for you, I don't and I'd rather spend £50 each time I need a new shock and spend 5 minutes welding on a new thread body

I'm looking at other options, but shortened coilover struts aren't the right tool for this job

class build, whats your first event?

  • Author

I'm entered into the Bruce Robinson (one of the long standing road rallies) - 155 miles rally with 26miles of "white" roads - these are things like bridle paths, farm tracks and green lanes

http://www.brucerobinsonrally.co.uk/

so are u planing on doing any proper rallies in north wales ?

  • Author
so are u planing on doing any proper rallies in north wales ?

Eventually - road rallies for the moment, then move into stage rallies when I can afford to (road rallies are usually sub £150 entry, stage rallies are over £250 entry and much tighter regs)

I'm looking forwards to getting on the Sarn Helen (road rally) at some point!

Edited by majic79

so are u planing on doing any proper rallies in north wales ?

Eventually - road rallies for the moment, then move into stage rallies when I can afford to (road rallies are usually sub £150 entry, stage rallies are over £250 entry and much tighter regs)

I'm looking forwards to getting on the Sarn Helen (road rally) at some point!

iam going to be building my road rally car soon once i have finished the loop.

looking for a e30 118is

matt

  • Author

I fancy a RWD road rally car as well - I built this car to do enduro (max 1400cc) and it's a fun car for the job, the next one will be a scooby (weld up the centre diff and take the fwd transfer shaft out) with forester running gear

I managed 6 mile of the Sarn Helen last year before blowing the engine in the chevette

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mate of mine was there in his Riva - he finished it!

Edited by majic79

I finished 12th O/a and 2nd expert :p ha ha

holla if your stuck for a nav when you come to wales :)

bruce robinson sounds proper in my book, did the bullenose last year. anyhoo back to topic ... any progress??

  • Author

Had a little event on wednesday night on the new suspension - it works a treat!

Had a great photo opportunity on a hairpin left and there was a couple of guys from the Red Arrows PR dept there taking photo's (they're into the rallying and wanted to get an impression of things), so I turned in early and dabbed the handbrake, got it properly sideways and round the corner (covered in mud and gravel) - waiting for the pictures to become available :D

As for progress - it's going to be slower than it has been, it's down to cash now, I've not got much of it atm, pretty much spent up between chrimbo and buying/building this car, so I need to save up a bit before I make the next big purchase (proper suspension! Probably buying Avo's)

Thanks for the offer of navving, I'll give you a shout when I come over that way (but not likely to be this year)

Very interesting thread.

Now that you've raised your suspension, do you get any problems with your driver side driveshaft rubbing against the subframe? My Polo has the original proflex challenge car suspension, set up for tarmac at the moment. When the car is jacked up and the suspension is fully dropped (as if to go over a jump), the longer driveshaft just about brushes against the subframe. This is probably going to cause no problem, but I am slightly concerned as my first event is going to be on the Epynt military ranges witch has a load of sizey jumps.

Also, how do you manage to fit 15" wheels inside your arches with gravel tyres? I have 15" wheels on at the moment with moulded slicks and i cant get near full lock. How wide are your wheels and what offset? I'm just about to put an order in for some 14" wheels (6" wide) but dont know what offset to get.

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