So you got it fitted m8 awsum!!! what it sound lik??? Much potch to make it fit a mk2 ??? Why dun u turn the box the other way round ave a single upswept then haha

Cheers mate,

Yeh wasnt too bad fitting it, just needed to chop down a piece of centre section i had lying about in the unit to make up about 4 inches where the downpipe would need the rest of the system as otherwise the centre hanger was in the wrong place.

its blowing on the downpipe so just sounds loud! will just get some exhaust wrap on it tonight after work, and then get it properly sorted when the AFH goes in and it needs to be connected to the lupo gti 4 branch and de-cat down pipe.

andif i turned it round it wouldnt be enough for me and id just get annoyed with the exhaust collecting full of water haha!

but yeh I've got a bit of stainless pipe will ill get someone to cut down and fit at some point!

oh and fibreglass shards are evil barstewards its got everyone

cheers mucker anyway your a star for that and your dads weldings spot on

oh the rear box exhaust hangers need bending properly to be properly safe that itll never fall off but more than adaquete at the moment.

I kw m8 my rear mounts snapped on my polo so i fabricated sum up thats why they r different on tha motobike back box. Glad you happy m8 it cost me £150 to make. Keep us posted dude, PhilJ is making my new exhaust friday

How are you finding these 'poiple' purple poly bushes?

I've got some to go in my track control arms/wishbones but they had brand new standard bushes in there when I fitted them two years back so I've still got polybushes sitting there.

I've got polybushes in the anti roll bar but thats not going to compete with your 'greenery' lol.

Are you still rolling with a weber DTMR carb? (sorry might be wrong lol.) I've been looking into getting mine run leaner maybe get it onto a rolling road to determine a better jet setup. Gaz on here says the standard jets run rich on a standard engine, thats what I'm finding also..

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=166393

Hey dude,

The polybushes are Powerflex jobbies, and they are good, however I am getting alot of feedback through the steering wheel, vibrates a wee bit. The tyres are balanced and the tracking has been done.

Karl said I would get alot of feel through the wheel, and its definatly more apparent than the G40 Track control arms with the rose joined inners and g-ladersiete outers that i had fitted on prescilla (the red mk2 coupe)

The main reason for the ARB blocks on the front is to lower the anti-roll bar so it will clear the lupo gti 4 branch i am going to use on the afh engine, but it also moves the anti roll bar forward, correcting the wheels location in the arch essentially centering it as it moves backwards towards the rear when its lowered.

I wasnt using a DTMR, it's a DTML and therefore has no return line on the carb, I'm running the return to the tank from the swirl pot.

It was running very rich when i took it for an mot, and we got it to run at 2.5% co with the hydrocarbons in an acceptable level, took a fair bit of fiddling to get it running sweet though.

I do think the standard jets are too much, as it drinks a little more fuel than i would like and i dont really give it much beans, its more of a gentle cruiser.

I really need to get the CO set again however after converting it to electronic ignition, but as I'm replacing the engine quite soon I'm not terribly bothered.

I believe the DTMR is more suited to the polo engines, and that german chap has got some really good advise regarding jet sizes so may be worth speaking to.

The pancake filter is beginning to cause issues in the cold mornings and late nights as well as its missing slightly when first driving but settles after 5 minutes

ps harking back to the tca's i would fit the outers and leave the inners with the new rubbers, then a year down the line swap them out and see the difference.

I need to dummy check the front end again and make sure everything is still nice and tight and still torqued to the correct setting to see if i can get to the bottom of the wobblyness. could just be that new tyres are required up front and they were from the rear (swapped round) but the rears took a bit of a beating when i brought the afh lump back from edition38 in the back of the car.

150 quid to make BrydgeyCoupe and you sold it for 40 quid. you mad man! what kinda thing you getting made up? but thank you anyway fella =]

2.25" all the way through with side swept tail pipe. Get pix on saturday. Good luck wid the conversion anyway m8 i am going a AEE carb'd conversion

fitted the gearbox

using mk4 flywheel and clutch, mk4 start will fit but need to enlarge the holes on the starter motor as they are a smaller diameter than the bolts used on the mk3 box

carbs fitted

filters fiited

woop

question for anyone if they know

the bottom left there there is a take off, the pipe next to it is connected to a take off on carb three.

are these vacuums? if so, then can i connect all four together and daisy chain them into a paper fuel filter and use that for the dizzy vac advance

word

Edited 17 October, 200916 yr by grungeisdead

They're for coolant to warm the bodies,though i drilled through the bodies where they insert and used poly tubing to daisy-chain through them and fit an outlet on the end one for the vac. They're the only place on the carbs in front of the butterflies,so its there or the manifold.

I've never linked them to the coolant,so i dont know if it makes a difference.

hey man,

yeh i managed to find this site with an exploded diagram and part list

http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module...SY_-_F3_-_95-96

and worked out they were coolant castings, the earlier pre 95 F2 600's didnt have these.

i wanted to use them for vacuums, over the inlet manifold, its been tapped on one port for vac but obviously its better to go from all 4 with a paper filter to smooth out the signal to the dizzy.

did you just connect the coolant castings on 1&2, 3&4 and then on the one nearest the dizzy tee that off to the dizzy?

and for the driling did you just go directly through the centre of the holes for the coolant pipes

cheers mikey

Edited 22 October, 200916 yr by grungeisdead

Yeah,drilled straight through them all (obviously not the end one by the throttle pulley),and linked them with some poly tubing which was an off-cut of some black air line from work. The fitting on the end is virtually identical to a football pump valve.

well, conversion went underway this weekend, wasnt too bad in the end. engine is in, everythings plumbed up and driveshafts, exhaust etc are all connected...

engine cranks over but not getting any fuel to the fuel pump, it was connected to the afh's original oil pressure switch but it wasnt turning on.

Anyway I've got a few wiring questions regarding oil pressure sender, coolant wiring and the fuel pump, and if anyone could help id be proper grateful

Oil pressure & Fuel Pump Questions

Original HK engines oil pressure switches - anyone know which is high and low? I'm not sure if i need to use the afh oil pressure switch and bridge the yellow and blue plugs from my engine loom into it, or to just use one of the oil pressure switches off the old engine

oil pressure sender on new engine - bottom left, seen replaced here with the black sender from the mk2s engine

the fuel pump states it can take my live feed off the oil pressure switch, but would i be better connecting it off a switched live with an inline fuse?

if so, can i use the redundant hedgehog heater wiring

Coolant Questions

coolant wiring on old engine

coolant sensor on the new engine - this is a 4 pin plug layed out in a 2x2 matrix.

I'm a bit confused as to whether i need to keep the sender with the two wires on it - as otherwise these are redundant in my loom. is that the ran temp switch? if so and i need to keep it, which coolant pipe would it be placed in line with, or should i get a mk3 rad which i think has those temp senders actually in the rad itself

Last, what have people done for throttle cables? anyone been able to modify an oem cable or it is easy enough to modify the motorbike cable. I suppose i could do what i did on the golf when it had twin webers, got an attachement for the pedal which allowed me to use a cable with a solderless nipple on the end, and another on the linkage- carb side and job was a good un!

Some pics of the fitted engine

Big thanks to antoni and his mate for helping me get the afh engine out of my living room into the garden, and helping to get it in (although i had to take it out after you guys left to grind away at the arb mount to clear the alternator belt

big thanks to rick (humer) for the engine crane, couldnt have do it without this!

big thanks for karlface for the hand on sunday and charface & karl for painting my liviing room.

legends!

Love it Saf! Looking quality

looking good my friend.....could just do with a sparky now to help iron out those few issues!!!

top work there matey. i think you will have to remove the vacum from the dizzy. i had to to get the timming correct as it wouldnt turn to the point needed.

cheers guys, will bear that in mind heg.

finally got fuel through my my pump ( was worried it wouldnt due to being so far away from the tank) but as I did that, i noticed a fuel leak at the back of carbs, so they are coming off this evening, got myself a 10mm to 8mm reducer (carb inlets are 10mm ID and all other hoses on my car are 8mm ID)

Sorted out the issue of the coil wire (namely the white wire that goes to the coil positive from the main engine loom, by cutting it out, doesnt seem to be used on other mk2 coupes I've seen) however I still dont think I'm getting a spark. Was a bit more than difficult checking on my own, so ill have another play after I've sorted the fuel leak out!

and need to comtemplate the best solution for a throttle cable bracket

wooohoo we have a spark!

wired the coil off the switched ignition live from the ignition barrel and finally sparky meets george.

my reducing t-piece arrived and although my spring clamps dont turn up till tomorrow, i was still eager to hear her fire up.

sorted out a few vac leaks and shes alive. didnt want to run her for too long though as the thermo plug isnt wired in yet.

weber throttle cable and pedal block arrive tomorrow so going to do some fiddling to get that fitted, and i need to get hold of another mk3 alternator and mk4 pulley. a key-way for the woodruff key is definatly needed, as its just spinning on the shaft and rattling a bit.

its also ridiculously tight between the decat downpipe and the anti-roll bar, and i need a sleeve welded into from the downpipes flexi to the rest of the system.

but happy days shes alive.

can someone please take a pic of the wires that goes into their thermo plug, if i know the right colour wires i can crimp the ones from my existing loom in place.

cheers all for zee help!

brap brap couple of videos of her alive =D complete with my dodgy accent haha

last jobs for today if it stops raining or tomorrow

* Fit rear exhaust rubber

* Adjust Gear Linkage

* Adjust Clutch Cable

* Add ground cable for temperature guage

* Wire up alternator live & on switch

* Pikey mod throttle cable so its usable

nice one saf long time no see good to see your still at it dude.what happened to the mk1?

luke

hey luke, hope your well man, aye forever fucking about with cars, bain of my existance. I've still got it, getting some lads to weld her up for me for 150 sheets, and then its on with a mk3 box, standard management with the lupo gti lump and get it mot'd, going ot try and get it welded over winter or january so its ready for a build up for spring

Lol, I find it annoying too how f*@king water sits on the head too!!!!

All looks good fella.....time to fettle now??

nope, fucking pain in the arse,

gearbox that i got had the clutch release bearing removed as it was goosed, i never noticed, fitted box to engine, = mc grindy noises when i finally got it rocking,

been fucking about this evening, got the box off, stuck on my clutch release bearing from the 4 speed box but i cannot get the box back on for the fucking life of me.

basically given up on it now, tomorrow i think the engines just going to have to come out and i can stick it on when its on the crane

fuckincuntbollockswankarselickers

Don't know why but the box removal on a mk2 when the engine is not the one that was in there in the first polace is a nightmare. Took about three of us to wrestle mine back onto the mk2. Was a serious swear fest as well.

Anyways congrats on the rest of it matey!!

Don't know why but the box removal on a mk2 when the engine is not the one that was in there in the first polace is a nightmare. Took about three of us to wrestle mine back onto the mk2. Was a serious swear fest as well.

Anyways congrats on the rest of it matey!!

theres just not enough room part of the bell housing catches on the chassis leg, it would just slide on now if i had a mk3 flywheel on, the mk4 flywheel is slightly bigger and the amount that i tickled the os driveshaft flange just wasnt enough!

cheers dudeface, i shall come and see you boris and the crew when its done

BRAP! sounds great mate, you any closer to doing the write up for this now its all sorted?

brapathon, its not all sorted yes, not any closer no haha, I've done a semi write up in a couple of posts but i will make a more succint guide in the future to try and collate all the knowledge from the various sources i found when doing my research

yeah the Big Gay Polo breathes again! good times saf!

away next week but will try n bob round sometime week afta n check you hany work...

really wanna see how the 16v performs against the 1600 8v on carbs... will have to go play when i get my arse in gear n have another play with the mk1!

hope you are well

safe geez

The trick to fit most vag gearbox's is to tilt the engine down abit, and always get the diff flange angled up towards where the starter would be, slip it over the flywheel and the twist it back down to wher it should bolt up. If you get me? lol