It needed be high capacity, since the regulator lowers the fuel pressure. Bike carbs use a smaller fuel pressure, i think its because they are fed by gravity. So you just need a fuel pump. What engine is this going on?

You dont use a regulator,most of the fuel is pumped back to the tank,the carbs will only take what they need as they're on the return line back pressure.

This is all explained in an above link already.

High flow is desirable because its lower pressure than when regulated if on a ring,making it safer,and still allowing it to keep up when full draw is needed.

For 1400cc 8v a road pump is still enough,1600s and possibly 1.4 16v need an intermediate one (circa 5-6psi). But they'll never build the pressure they're rated at because the fuel is not throttled anywhere.

It needed be high capacity, since the regulator lowers the fuel pressure. Bike carbs use a smaller fuel pressure, i think its because they are fed by gravity. So you just need a fuel pump. What engine is this going on?

You dont use a regulator,most of the fuel is pumped back to the tank,the carbs will only take what they need as they're on the return line back pressure.

This is all explained in an above link already.

High flow is desirable because its lower pressure than when regulated if on a ring,making it safer,and still allowing it to keep up when full draw is needed.

For 1400cc 8v a road pump is still enough,1600s and possibly 1.4 16v need an intermediate one (circa 5-6psi). But they'll never build the pressure they're rated at because the fuel is not throttled anywhere.

Whoops, typo. Should have been "needn't"

Lol

ahh right cheers

just on my old thread i got told i needed electronic fuel pump , fuel regulator, mk2 dizzy but i dont need half of this stuff

thanks

Found a flaw in my previous plan, you cant use an inlet of amk3 polo and cut it up, all the flanges are separate and not fitted to one big plate like some cars. pulled mine off and just went bugger

So back to the drawing board, has someone got any pics of what the GT/G40 ones look like.

You need a fuel pump and the dizzy. A lot of people use a fuel regulator too, but some clever bugger devised a way to avoid uing one, by T-ing in into the return. That parts up to you. But less hassle and cheaper to do away woth the reg. You may also want to add a vacum advance pipe from the dizzy to the inlet mani too, to advance ignition when required

If thats aimed at me, i have already sourced all my bits, only got to get the manifold made up.

The guy who thought the T idea does deserve a pat on the back as its a lot less hassle.

The guy who thought the T idea does deserve a pat on the back as its a lot less hassle.

I was more motivated by safety tbh,as i didn't want any fuel pressure anywhere.

The only flaw is that it results in a noisier fuel pump,because the fuel flows too freely with such low back-pressure against it. But it should last longer due to less stress.

i noticed that, i did wire up a facet with a adjustable safety pressure switch at 1PSI and half the time it refused to switch off and the pressure would just rise until the pump couldn't cope, also if the car stalled it would just keep pumping.

At least with the loop the pump would stop in a stall.

Dont hate on me cause i got it wrong, i didnt re-read any of my old messages and just took a guess lol sorry for the confusion dude

you can see my setup now in polo chat

as for the carbs being fed by gravity, that may not be true, mine feed from the bottom and thats the reason behind the regulator if i remember correctly as it was danny who had the problem and sourced all this prior too me buying them off him

good luck

nah, were all learning.

The carbs I'm using wernt gravity fed as the bike mine came off uses a fuel pump, but I've even been into a nearby bike shop and the mechanic looked through the bikes workshop manual for me and there was nothing regarding fuel pressures despite showing the fuel pump.

I saw the sale thread and saw the fuel pump he was selling was the same as the one i planned to use, but having tested both ideas out today I'm going to use the T-loop setup.

Dont hate on me cause i got it wrong, i didnt re-read any of my old messages and just took a guess lol sorry for the confusion dude

you can see my setup now in polo chat

as for the carbs being fed by gravity, that may not be true, mine feed from the bottom and thats the reason behind the regulator if i remember correctly as it was danny who had the problem and sourced all this prior too me buying them off him

good luck

haha its alrite mate

you said your using you original dizzy didnt you?

thanks

yes mate, I'm using the original dizzy though by the sounds of it I may not be using the full scope of mine due to my ignition set up so am going to wait for monday and see if I've got noticeable gains or not :-D

hows your little build going?

The gravity thing was just a hypothesis. Obviously been disproved, and as a scientist, this is what i strive for daily

Cymro, get a build thread going, or is there on over on the Welshy Forum? I'm bidding on a 1.6 atm, so may need some help in the near future too!

yes mate, I'm using the original dizzy though by the sounds of it I may not be using the full scope of mine due to my ignition set up so am going to wait for monday and see if I've got noticeable gains or not :-D

hows your little build going?

you going on a rolling road?

just found out what size materials to use so going for some stuff 2day

going to get it CNC'd i think because my cousins mate can do it cheap :-D then my dad will weld the pipes on.

and now just need fuel pump really

hows yours going?

i noticed that, i did wire up a facet with a adjustable safety pressure switch at 1PSI and half the time it refused to switch off and the pressure would just rise until the pump couldn't cope, also if the car stalled it would just keep pumping.

At least with the loop the pump would stop in a stall.

your fuel pump should be wired up using a relay, the relay should be powered on by a signal from the coil, so it only pumps where there is a spark.

no spark, no fuel being pumped around.

Its the Bosch safety feature used on K-Jet Injection.

You should also consider an cut off switch, which can be mounted somewhere on your front panel, if you have a front ender itll set off and knock off the fuel pump.

got a inertia switch for that, doesnt need to be in the front really so it would switch off in an impact, but as I'm going to use the injection pump that switch should no longer be required.

I mounted the safety switch into the fuel line to stop over pressuring but the system was flawed as the pipe would take the stress first and then switch off the fuel pump.

Mikeys system means that there is no stored pressure anywhere, take the standard injection system, there is always pressure in the line from the pump so you have to "bleed" the pressure from the system when undoing any part of it. Mikeys system is in essence a non-pressure loop, pump stops any pressure dispels immediately into the return line.

Less risk of pipes failing and fuel spray when dismantling

cant get manifold made till next weekend now :(

so just buy the rest of the parts while i gota bit of money

any one know where i can get a decent fuel pump from?

thanks

alrite guys cant get my manifold made till another week or 2

so just going to get everything i can now

any one know wher to get a decent fuel pump from?

and another thing how long do you normally have the pipes on the manifold going to the carbs?

i will have few more questions aswell after

thanks :-D

make the pipes short as possible if you want to run an air fillter as they are quite close to the bulkhead .

i just made mine too long then cut them off the right length

oh just for the record my home made manifold use`s 6mm steel plate and some 40mm exhauste (getto) , i`ve had no warping or leaks and done about 11,000 mile on them so far

the t-loop works fine and for a pressure regulator i put a hose clip on the pipe and squashed it till the pump slowed down , so i just leaks off the pressure

make the pipes short as possible if you want to run an air fillter as they are quite close to the bulkhead .

i just made mine too long then cut them off the right length

oh just for the record my home made manifold use`s 6mm steel plate and some 40mm exhauste (getto) , i`ve had no warping or leaks and done about 11,000 mile on them so far

the t-loop works fine and for a pressure regulator i put a hose clip on the pipe and squashed it till the pump slowed down , so i just leaks off the pressure

cheers mate appreciate the help

I'm either going to put a pipercross sock over all 4 or put my dads k&n's on each of them if they fit :-D

how hard was it to make the manifold? because I'm going to get mine cnc'd but if its easy enough ill get my dad to do it.

what have you used for your carbs? i.e dizzy? fuel pump? regulator? etc

thanks

its a 3f engine

with 900 carbs (way to big but free)

mk2 2g engine code, dizzy, modual and loom

regulator is a squashed hose clip

and the fuel pump is off a morris minor (not quite high enough flow but it works and was free)

the manifold was a piece of pee to make it may not be pretty but it works (and i have acess to all the old man`s tool`s ) . cut the flanges out with a grinder . then plasma cut the ports out , welded some 40mm scrap exhauste on to them , then neatend them up with a dremal

their is a couple of pic`s on the "bike carb set up" thread i just put on !