Is it easy to take off the top plastic vac covers off the carbs if you want to spray paint them (cbr600's)? Would springs spring out.

Would you spray a primer over them first and then vht heat paint? Want to spray them red.

Have read this thread from start to finish, and noticed that not a lot of people have done this/chimed in with results on converting an already carbed 1.3 to bike carbs.

So - I've got a mk2 golf 1.3 carb (still running a 28yr old poorberg!) and I'm thinking about bike carbing it.

Obviously it already has the vac advance dizzy and required coil/amp setup as standard, so i would assume nothing needs changed there.

What do I do about fuel feed from the tank? I don't know if the car has an in tank pump which feeds to the diaphragm regulator on the head? Any insight on this? Would I be best to get a corresponding fuel pump from the bike the carbs are off of? Or do I just reroute the feed to the pierburg into the bike carb's feed?

Lastly, if I were to buy a inlet/carb setup that was used on a 1.3 8v spi polo lump, would the inlet ports match the ones on my golf head?

its the same engine setup.

AFR:

Cruising is in the 14's

Racing is in the 12-13's

But idle is 11's? Also over-run drops to 11.

Why is this? can you destroy plugs on idle?

Edited 14 September, 201412 yr by damunk

Burning a hole in my head with this trying to find parts so hopefully someone can help. I have an AFH that I'm trying to run carbs on which i get how the basic set up work etc.. however the ignition system is hurting my head to say the least. been ready a lot of threads and know i need a Mk2 golf/polo loom, Mk2 Golf/Polo Ingition Amp, Mk2 golf/Polo Coil and a mk2 golf/polo distributor. Does it matter if its a polo or a golf or are they the same? And I'm stuck trying to find a distributor everyone seem to use the mk2 polo ones but I'm stumped to see why. Can i not just use the standard one that comes on the engine?

however if not does anyone know if any of the following will work. read something about part number 030905205A but can't find anything on that closest i could find was

030 905 205 D

030 905 205 N

030 905 205 S

or

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zundverteiler-VW-Polo-86-86c-86c-2f-Golf-2-Jetta-2-Wartburg-353-OE-0237021058-/400331843954?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item5d35a32972

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLKSWAGEN-GOLF-MK-II-1-3-1983-TO-1987-ELECTRONIC-DISTRIBUTOR-1341700-/171531229361?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item27f00ed8b1

Edited 23 February, 201511 yr by Ryso08

I am currently doing a AFH conversion in my mk2f coupe i have read this post several times and can not seem to find the right answer to what size jets i neef for my cbr600 carbs

its running standard cams and exhaust any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks jordan

Put an appropriate link on your post on Facebook

Hi guys, I've read almost every thread here about carbs and have learned a lot. Thank you so much about that. I have tried my carbs, car started, but I didn't tunned them. That was only a try. I would feel better if I ask the question, then to try it by myself. I am bit afraid to make step to unknown by myself. :)

 

I made intake by myself. Now I have decided to clean them before final mounting. 

I have Honda CBR F1 carbs, which have 4x105 standard jets. Someone changed them to 2x108 and 2x105 so I need to sort that out. Pilot jets are 35, choke size is 32mm.

I have 1.1l engine on my car  44 kW @ 6000 rpm /55hp,  83 Nm @ 4400 rpm. -standard engine performance.

 

What main jets would you recomend as start? I tought to start with 110, then to 120? 

 

And should I solder air corrector on this carbs? Which material to use for soldering if I need to do it?

Is air corrector the one on the last photo?

 

Here you have photos of my carbs, cleaning is not going too well, it is slow, because I have problems with taking off old bolts. I bought them a bit cheap around 30euros, but someone tid't take care about bolts, so they are in bad condition.

 

Edited 28 September, 20169 yr by vladales
adding photos

Maybe some had similar problems.

 

 

So,Ive got KR with R1 carbs and R1 fuel pump, stock dizzy but mono style icm ( no engine ecu )

 

Engine is cranking,got spark and even wannabe starting , just once and then denys. Was playing with igniton 0TDC,6BTDC but nothing really changed.All timing marks is set corecct.

 

So I cant sort out is it engine kind of engine problems  (fully rebuilded be rally specialst) or mostly ignition.

 

Maybe I need 1.3 dizzy or wire with KR ECU?

 

Jetting is 185 mains and 17.5 or 50 pilot what I tested

Hi guys finally installing my cbr600 carbs on my polo 6n 1.4 8v 1999 believe I have everything!?

Manifold 

Carbs

Vac dizzy 

Coil

Fuel pump for the same bike

TCI-H loom and amp

 

Quick question with the loom, green goes to neg on coil, black to pos, plug with red/black, green/white, red/white to dizzy,

 

I have a long brown wire does this go to ground??

 

Only thing I'm struggling on is connecting to ignition, do I need to add a wore from ignition fuse to loom amp? Or do I connect the car ignition wire to the coil? 

 

Really stuck please help!!

I think that you are right. Can you send me amp model name and number? Sorry for being late.

Solution for finding air jet that needs to be pluged is to spray some of fuel into jets outside, and see if that fuel goes out of main jet. One that takes fuel to the main jet needs to be pluged.

Hi all, apologies if this has been covered before. But I'm looking into putting bike carbs on my 1.3 AAV MK2F Coupe. I have purchased a set of CBR600 carbs, think they're Keihin VP carbs. I plan on buying a rebuild kit, and overhauling the carbs before i get started. I'm aware about the fact I have to change my wiring system to the MK2 loom, with the amp and coil, dizzy etc, however the big question is fuel pressure. I know on the MK2s, everyone fits facet 4/5psi pumps to get fuel pressure and commonly use the T piece method, however being the SPI setup, I believe my electric fuel pump sends around 18psi to the front, and rather than scrap this for a facet pump, can I not just use some form of mechanical pressure regulator set to the correct psi for my carb (4psi i have been told), and sending the surplus fuel back to the tank? If this idea works, I'm guessing I'll still have to use the T piece method at the carbs and then just join that return to the regulators return? Also, I have general choke questions, what have people done in 2Fs with their choke cable? I know MK2 people tend to use the factory location but obviously my car came with injection so i need ideas for where to locate the pull lever in the dash, and cable routing. I think they're the only questions I have for the time being, I'm sure there will be more as I progress with my work towards having carbs working 

On 26/09/2022 at 18:16, Rhys Durham said:

I'm guessing I'll still have to use the T piece method at the carbs and then just join that return to the regulators return?

A T piece is a poor man's regulator, you can clamp return line to choose how much flows to carbs and how much back to tank. When carb inlet float valves close all flow is back to tank, for a short period. But there's no compensation for pressure or temperature.

 

Putting a T piece in a pressure regulator output will impede it's ability to regulate.

 

Some regulators for carbs have a return connection themselves (Malpassi filter king £70).

Some don't (Sytec £25 https://www.advancedautomotives.co.uk/sytec-pro-flow-adjustable-fuel-pressure-regulator-6mm-pipe-hose-tails-for-carbs-1073-p.asp). Note only 6mm pipe. A mk2 Golf 1.3 or 1.6 uses 7.9mm feed pipe to a single Pierburg.

 

I'm not sure the lift pump always provides that much PSI, and you'll be making it work hard. You don't want mixture leaning at high load, which will happen if carb  bowls are not adequately filled. 

 

I'd fit a large fuel filter, a motorbike electric fuel pump designed for carbs, and block the return line.

eg

https://danstengineering.co.uk/Bike-Carb-Fuel-Pump

(£58)

or this

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222986828731

(£25) 60l/hr 2psi.

 

(electric pump should be wired with a fuse and inertia switch for impact cut-off in a switched live circuit)

 

Also use SAE J30 R9 rated fuel hose which is Ethanol safe. 

Edited 1 October, 20223 yr by dvderlm
ethanol