i want to bike carb mine when i get a gt lump

I think Mikey is currently running FX's on his 1.6 16v hybrid but I may stand corrected.

Yeah,from an '01 CBR600F-X but they ran from '99-01. I'm now using the original needles,having previously ran more consistently progressive needles from,so i was told,a '97 CBR900F.

My needles are 165.

might buy a set of 4 x 150 too

I advise this as being best so far. I ran 150s with my 1.4 8v and it ran really well,plus economical and passed an Mot,despite being a touch rich on that more restricted engine.

cheers good sir =]

interesting. I've got 135 and 138s in my FS/FT's at the moment. They are straight off the bike. Would I need to change the needles as well to go up to 150s?

Cheers :)

Edited 28 April, 201016 yr by tezmc

Sorry i meant 165 jets,not 165 needles!

These carbs really should be jetted at 145 (always the same on every cylinder) on a standard AFH,i expect even those 135/8's will be way too lean straight off the bike. With the 1.6, i melted a piston with 160's! I believe Max_crox's has been tuned on the rollers,and i think they settled for 148's but two '97 AFH engines with identical carbs often need slightly different settings - no two are ever the same,so 146 or 150 may be better,it just depends.

Sizes are specific to the exact model though,i can only speak for '99-01 FX's. And whilst the jet is miles away from the needle,they would be matched in a perfectly tuned set of carbs. But only taking the jet sizes up a fraction doesn't present any issues - even at 165.

need a bit of advise, abd engine, cbr600 carbs. would a facet pump in the bay be sufficient without an in tank pump on the original gt fuel lines with joining lines where the gt pumps would have been. cheers

Edited 10 May, 201016 yr by frybert

Hi all,

I am just in the process of carrying out the bike carb conversion (cbr600 carbs) on my 1991 polo gt. I have removed the inlet etc but am looking at a few things I am not sure to do with?!

...The Charcoal Canister? Can I remove that?

...The Purge Valve?

...Underneather where the inlet was there is a black plastic container attahced to the engine with what looks to be oil in it. It has a large thick pipe coming out of it!? What do I do with that?

...My brake servo vac will attach to the 1st inlet (closest to brake servo), where do I attache the dizzy vac point to??!

What wire shall I tap into to get a live feed for the facet pump?

Sorry if these questions seem dumb but I would rather ask than screw it up completly!!

Hopefully someone can help because I really want to carry on with this tomorrow!!!

Cheers

Tom

have anyone bike carbs on a mk4-6n?becouse i`d like to convert my polo 6n 1,4 16v,so if any have carbs on a mk4 pls contact me,tnx.

Hi all,

I am just in the process of carrying out the bike carb conversion (cbr600 carbs) on my 1991 polo gt. I have removed the inlet etc but am looking at a few things I am not sure to do with?!

...The Charcoal Canister? Can I remove that?

...The Purge Valve?

...Underneather where the inlet was there is a black plastic container attahced to the engine with what looks to be oil in it. It has a large thick pipe coming out of it!? What do I do with that?

...My brake servo vac will attach to the 1st inlet (closest to brake servo), where do I attache the dizzy vac point to??!

What wire shall I tap into to get a live feed for the facet pump?

Sorry if these questions seem dumb but I would rather ask than screw it up completly!!

Hopefully someone can help because I really want to carry on with this tomorrow!!!

Cheers

Tom

I've converted my carbs to give vac to the dizzy,I'm sure its in one of the bike carb topics and so should be linked in my first post on the first page of this topic.

Its not essential though - it always ran well enough when the vac dizzy wasn't vac connected. You could just connect it to the servo one too,but the reduced pulse caused by it being operated by only one cylinder has been reported to damage the hall sender. So you're best taking from all four or none at all.

Purge valve? Bin. Its no longer part of your active fuel system.

The charcoal can go on the bbq.

The oil box thing is the crankcase breather,best place for its outlet to go now is to pipe it to the enclosed part of the front arch via the hole the charcoal canister sat in. Late MK2's had a blanking plate for this hole. You'll need to partition the void behind the wing just above the wheel with a big piece of sponge,pillow,or some expanding foam,to isolate the void in the front of the wing from the void in the back of the wing. This way you dont get the smell in the passenger compartment,yet no water gets in the breather (This hole isn't there on pre '87 cars).

If you dont partition the void,then the oil smell will make its way through a drainage hole and to the interior fan unit.

Leave the pipe loose in the engine bay,and it makes its way to said fan unit through voids in the bonnet bracing,as well as making the engine bay dirty.

Ideally,you funnel the breather gases into a fabricated intake for the carbs. But even with sock filters,the oily deposits in the air can get in the carb jets and cause problems.

You really want these crankcase gases to be fired out into the atmosphere without entering engine induction nor passenger compartment.

Some use a catch tank,but the air still comes out dirty and smelly so i dont see how they help at all.

Thanks Mikey,

very helpful,

I removed the pipe and covered the crankcase breather with a rubber glove but now you have said this I will alter it.

I have done everything else apart from connecting a vac to the dizzy, will do this at some point.

The car is not starting at the moment, it turns but doesn't fire so I think it isn't getting a spark, lots of investigating need tomorrow I think.....

really struggling to figure out what is wrong.

I am temporarily using the battery as a direct live feed for both the coil and pump which seems to work but coil gets extremely hot, this couldn't be the problem could it? I am only connecting them to the battery to test for maximum of 30 seconds a time.

I have TDC and fitted the dizzy and plugs are in firing order of 1342 I think..... Not sure of the best way to determine if I have done this correctly!?

Fuel is definitly getting to the carbs.

HELP!?!?

Right,

Have even tried putting the old dizzy and coil back in but still no joy, it sounds like they really want to come to life but something is stopping them!?!?!

warm coil = wired incorrectly

ok but I have just used the plugs so I have a red/black wire and a green wire going to the positiver terminal and 2 x black wires going to the negative one of those goes to earth, can you tell what is wrong there because I really want this to work!!!!!

the green wire from the ignition amp loom goes to NEGATIVE on the cil.

the black wire from the ignition amp loom goes to POSTIVE on the coil

red/black wire goes to negative for a tacho

and then you should have one more wire to your coil positive, which is a switched ignition live.

you've possibly fried some of your wiring by plugging things in wrong and you could have caused a serious fire

Edited 31 May, 201016 yr by grungeisdead

Thanks,

I have read so many topics/threads online about this and didn't really read too much about coil wiring because the plugs were already fitted to the coil when got it, stupid me for not considering that as an issue.

This site is a great site for information and I would rather ask the question, find out what I am doing wrong than do even more damage. I am glad I didn't cause a serious fire, I did have the fire extinguisher to hand because I was worried that something may go wrong.

I am really enjoying doing this and for me it is the best way to learn, just cracking on and giving it a go!!

I will report back when done and then post pics of my setup and info on my build.

have anyone bike carbs on a mk4-6n?becouse i`d like to convert my polo 6n 1,4 16v,so if any have carbs on a mk4 pls contact me,tnx.

anyone??

have anyone bike carbs on a mk4-6n?becouse i`d like to convert my polo 6n 1,4 16v,so if any have carbs on a mk4 pls contact me,tnx.

anyone??

Exactly same principle, just need to read through this thread.

have anyone bike carbs on a mk4-6n?becouse i`d like to convert my polo 6n 1,4 16v,so if any have carbs on a mk4 pls contact me,tnx.

anyone??

Exactly same principle, just need to read through this thread.

tnx mate i read it all and others posts buth i don`t understant what to do with the orig.fuel pump ,what i live it and on the fuel pipe when is coming to the engin conect the facet fuel pumpe and then the ......all other steps??

and wath abouth the orig.ECU ?what i don`need to take it off?

if i tell you the answers you wont understand them, if you dont understand the previous posts in this thread.

it really is childs play.

Thanks 'Grungeisdead', after altering the wiring the engine fired up...but then spluttere to a halt, first thought was that it was being starved of fuel but after a bit of hunting around it appears that the manifold is leaving a gap between itself and the block. I have ordered some socket cap bolts which will fit better (the normal bolts were catching on the inlets meaning they were possibly not on tight enough to create a decent seal). I am also making another gasket just to be sure.

I will report back with more news soon!!

its definatly much apprieciated someone having a go and getting stuck in and asking questions, rather than asking a million and one questions first and not having the foggiest when someone is telling them the answers!

glad its sorted, yep i use socket cap bolts, can you not cut the bolts down shorter as a temp measure?

When I look at the actual work I have done I am proud of it but you are right, it really is childs play, looking at everything it looks so simple, unfortunately I am mearly a child when it comes to knowledge of cars but I love them and am really keen to learn so I have to start somewhere!!

It is a mixture of the length of the bolts and the head shape so cutting them helps a bit but the head gets stuck on the weld from the inlet to back plate. I have tried rubbing down the welded area but I didn't want to rub it too much, plus the socket cap bolts will be much easier to install and remove for future use.

I will need to have all 4 inlets tapped into at some point so I can run the vac from the dizzy so having the socket capped bolts will mean when the time comes to do that I can get the manifold off quite easily!

Me again!!

Well, managed to get the car running today by connecting the fuel feed on the carbs to a small petrol tank held above the carbs (gravity). This worked and the carbs were spot on, sound brilliant.

The problem I have is a pump issue.

The facet pump pumps a burst of fuel when you turn the key 1 click and then when you start up the engine it doesn't do anything although it sounds like it is trying to pump....The reason for this is because the standard pump (at back of car) does the same thing so pumps a burst of fuel and then stops meaning the facet pump is not getting a feed....

Is there a problem here or do I just need to disconnect the standard pump??

Hopefully someone can help me please!!!!!!!!!

Could the oil pressure switches stop the fuel from pumping if not connected?