I have decided to tidy up all the wiring in the engine bay so started by removing the ECU from my GT and have also removed the wiring loom including the 2 relays that sit on the ECU bracket.

I want to wire up my facet pump to a relay as 'grungeisdead' has suggested. Can I remove the wiring from the current fuel pump relay (not sure if this should still be connected for the pump in the tank) and use that for the facet pump or do I need to source a new relay?

Thanks

Tom

Edited 30 June, 201016 yr by Tomgti

today i fit bike carbs in my polo buth it didn`t start because there was no spark.any help pls pls i don`t know what i connect wrong!

the black cable of amp i conect to the coil on 15 ( - ) and the green on the other side ( + ) another black cable i conect to the batery ( - )

home made manifold

ok i solve the problem,i forgote to conect the coil to + on batery(yust for spark) right is to conect to the swich for ingnition

just a thought here on something that i havnt seen touched in this thread about timing advance.

What degree are people running with different set-ups or are you sticking to the stock engine setting?

i`d would like to ask the same question.

mates can u help me abouth wiring the pump relay to ignition switch on 6n and to wiring the rev counter?

tnx andy

1.4 16v AFH - CBR600 FS/FT 1995 running 150 jets - Max advance, not vacuum controlled. Ill whack the timing light on it tonight and get a figure, i want to advance it more really, as I'm now running 99 octane.

considering whippin the vac advance off and fixing the advance statically.

OK my polči starts i`m realy happy mmmmm nice sound realy

http://www.shrani.si/?13/qd/HTKBUoy/mov00144.3gp

buth i have questions how to wire the coil to the key that will get the elect. when i turn the key and another thing is how to wire the fuel pump relay that will have the electr. when i turn the key??? pls help

pls comment what do you thing abouth how is working the engine! tnx

i have orig.yets on my carbs (135) and carbs are of CBR 600 FX FY y.99

Edited 9 July, 201016 yr by andy555

http://www.shrani.si/?13/qd/HTKBUoy/mov00144.3gp

buth i have questions how to wire the coil to the key that will get the elect. when i turn the key and another thing is how to wire the fuel pump relay that will have the electr. when i turn the key??? pls help

ok this two problems i solve first coil you must to conect: from the orig.conector of the coil you take one cable from number 3 and you conect to mk2 coil on +

second fuel pump reley you must cut of the orig.cable of - and thet side wher is go in reley you put another cable and you conct it - somewere on car done

i have orig.yets on my carbs (135) and carbs are of CBR 600 FX FY y.99

but now i have another problem when i pushing the gas is working normaly buth when i go for a ride and push the gas to the end (when i driving) the engine don`t work normal like he get to much fuel or too little or is someting with timing i don`know. pls help me

can pls anybody help me

I think i have a huge problem in my setup, runs happily at idle (revs a bit high on choke) but dies/struggles when you try and accelerate. so current guess is lack of fuel or an air leak.

I have been thinking of this sort of setup with the bike carbs and that, but just got a few questions if you dont mind?

1. How much does it usualy cost for this conversion

2. What carbs would be best for a 6n 1.0 8v

3. Anything change with the ecu

4. What will i need apart from the carbs

Thanks alot

Matt

I have been thinking of this sort of setup with the bike carbs and that, but just got a few questions if you dont mind?

1. How much does it usualy cost for this conversion

2. What carbs would be best for a 6n 1.0 8v

3. Anything change with the ecu

4. What will i need apart from the carbs

Thanks alot

Matt

1. varies but can be done for as little as 150 quid

2. dont know

3. unplug it all

4. all required parts are covered in depth in this thread

this is my setup on the spare head last month just to give an idea of the manifold design i went with.

(the red paint was so the mill could see the active face, its now been removed)

i currently do have the finished item in front of me but wont be taking any pics till there finished, only problem thats shown itself is that the carb mounts overlap the manifold plate bolts slightly (just inside the circumference of the O-ring but not into the port area) causing an air leak so the bolt holes will be filled with some sealant (as it can be picked out if i ever need to take it off). When the plates fitted you can only just see it and is almost hidden when the plugs are in.

Edited 12 July, 201016 yr by Cymro

looks like a very overengineered solution, coupled with pikey piece de resistance. silicon down bolt holes dude, cmon!

it was something we were worried about, it really is only a tiny overlap but its enough to cause a leak. possibly thicker o-rings could be an answer. it looks very over engineered but it was extremely simple to do the finished piece. ports 1 & 4 were just milled straight through as they line up line up, 2 & 3 were a case of tilting the mill and drilling through.

If i can find some rubber caps it would be better, just something to level out the surface so the o-ring will seal.

plus its only cost me £25 in total.

Edited 12 July, 201016 yr by Cymro

are you talking about o-rings in the carb rubber to flange fitment? or the flange to head?

i noticed the bolt on carb rubbers for bikes, and thought it would be an interesting prospect, but its not viable for myself without specialist equipment to make something up, so i elected for the simpler option. bike carb rubbers are indeed the way forward over silicon tubing, by far.

spark plug gaps all good? i noticed your milled a bit out? i noticecd that was a pain on adams manifold and required us to remove it to get at the plugs!

my one now, cost me double that but if i had your toys id be making something myself. looking forward to seeing the end product anyway

i am currently converting my car to a 1.4 16v AFH, i have bought a set of cbr600s and been asked by the company which i want... cbr600... FS? FT? FV? FW? i persume the only difference is the jet sizes? Which ever i get what is the correct re-jetted size for the afh?

you presume wrongly, there are many different variants, as they were produced for over 10 years, some have 30mm diameter ports, others 36mm others 38mm, i have put a link up in in previous pages, the text is massive and you really cant miss the post, it is the bikers equivalent of etka and will allow you to see each fo the cbr600 variants and discern the differences, and select the most applicable for your application,

jet sizes are different throughout the ranges, and subtle differences (different airboxes, diff vac hoses, coolant pipes, throttle wheel position)

there is no defacto correct size for jets, and each set of carbs will be different in terms of the needle used and where the circlip is set and condition of the springs and diaphragms.

the sweet spot appears to be somewhere between 140-150, but its really best to get them set up on a rollers by someone who is confident with bike carbs, to squeeze the best out of them

Edited 13 July, 201016 yr by grungeisdead

Thanks, its getting them running then getting them to somewhere to be set up. i just got an email off the bike breakers that says

"Hi

The differences are that the fv and fw have slightly bigger main jets but obviously you will be changing these anyway so no problem"

I've heard theres a place in congelton thats local to where i am. Is there any places that anyone recommends around the staffordshire area?

Edited 13 July, 201016 yr by butlerlm

mikeanics are in congleton, but I've heard both good and bad reviews.

without a doubt the best would be bogg bros, there is also torquetune iirc down in nottingham.

both myself and max_crox are running cbr600 fs/ft's circa 1995, mikey is running fx's which are circa 99.

remember that the bike carbs will have 2 larger jets installed, such as 2 x 142 and 2 x 144.

currently running 150s, was previoulsy running 2 x 142 and 2 x 144 and economy has suffered since slighty, (was getting 120 miles to 15 quid of v power, now circa 90), really need to get more advance on the dizzy to take full advantage, and I'm considering switching to a dizzyless setup with something like megajolt in the future.

mikeanics is the closest, bogg bros I'm going to get make my mani but there 3 hours drive from me and untill the car is running and trust worthy i dont really want to drive that far. Where would i get my jets re-drilled? 120 miles on 15quid of vpower isnt bad at all, my 1.3 8v engine was running worse than that hense why its out, but i would be happy with fuel around that range.

are you talking about o-rings in the carb rubber to flange fitment? or the flange to head?

i noticed the bolt on carb rubbers for bikes, and thought it would be an interesting prospect, but its not viable for myself without specialist equipment to make something up, so i elected for the simpler option. bike carb rubbers are indeed the way forward over silicon tubing, by far.

spark plug gaps all good? i noticed your milled a bit out? i noticecd that was a pain on adams manifold and required us to remove it to get at the plugs!

my one now, cost me double that but if i had your toys id be making something myself. looking forward to seeing the end product anyway

the o rings are for the carb rubbers>flange as that were the vac leak is, the top row of bolt holes overlap into there circumference very slightly (2&3 being the worst), we connected a small vac pump to the vac take offs on the rubbers and some cling film over the end then used a laser pen and a smoking bit of paper to pick up the leak, i then have a rubber gasket on the flange>head side.

The rubbers themselves are the same 0 shape and size as the ports on the polo head and will bolt on to the head as they are but they end up about 45 degrees out so all the bolts on the rubbers are in a straight line so they line up, the one issue here is that you then need to find another way of taking the vac signal from 2&3 so some 5mm self sealing take off's are going to be employed for that, main reason is that the throttle wheel fouls on them as they should be facing upwards (turning them the otherway makes them foul on the butterfly adjusters).

Plug gaps are just big enough to fit a plug spanner down the flared bit on the bottom of the HT leads scrape's a bit, on cyl4 we cut a lot of metal away as it was redundant and fouled the thermostat housing so it stops just after the final rubber bolt.

Once my camera re-appears ill take an exploded pictures showing how it goes together onto the head. Waiting for pay day now as 2 SS take off's are between £15 & £20 each making them almost the most expensive expenditure of the entire build (carbs were £40).

why drill jets when you can get replacements off the shelf, 16 pound for a set of 4 from NRP in victoria station approach

grungeisdead can you pls tell me something,is not normal that the engin and the engine area is soo hot(running with bike carbs),right??

buth the counter temp. of the engine is showing 90 allways.do you know what can be wrong?