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Fitting bike carbs onto a mk2/3 & 6n

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how have you measured your engine area temperature? your counter temperature reading should work as normal, unless youve broken it, or knocked the connector out when you were fitting the carbs, or it didnt work in the first place.

also, I've already said not to pm me regarding bike carb issues, hence my lack of reply.

saf

Edited by grungeisdead

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  • Gash pics of my set up, note lack of ecu and heater matrix :) Ant

  • MiNoR cOnFuSiOn
    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    no, no and no.. you dont cut/bend springs... lots of people seem to like stretching there springs out (idiot superbike owners) thinking it will help with things... as far as springs go.. you want to

  • Then bigger,from a 600-900cc,though that's not to say bigger is better universally. They have vaccum-operated flat slides,which govern the throttle dependant of what the engine can draw at any time,so

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would under fuelling cause higher temp? thinking along the lines of what happens forced induction cars when they under fuel.

counter temp.works fine i didn`t disconect the conector,becouse still now he reading 90 and he is always there.but when you put your arm in engine area you fill how much is hot is realy realy hot i think that is not normal,or maybe like Cymro said that is not enough fuel?

and i`d like to ask anyone with CBR 600 carbs how much did you turn the screw of mixture, about??

yes running lean can cause increased engine temperatures, and lead to things like melted pistons etc etc

yes running lean can cause increased engine temperatures, and lead to things like melted pistons etc etc

aha tnx

maybe do you know what`s wrong mixture screw or ?

is maybe wrong that i run carbs on a orig.pump without reg.pressure on t-methode so that fuel dont came to carbs becouse fuels to fast

take it somewhere to be set up if you dont have a clue, i cant advise. I'm not a mechanic and I'm not being paid to fix your problems.

yes its easy to stick carbs on your car, its not easy to get them set up properly.

yes i understand you,i was thinking that maybe you know or someone else.tnx anyway

turning the screw may not be the only thing needed. Could be jetting needs doing too.

mine are estimated currently as we had to change the needles to normal tapered ones and not the turbo ones that were fitted and the jetting. the only way to do it properly would be to RR the car at somewhere that does bike carb setting.

my yets are now driled to 150 from 135 and 132

0406e542.jpg

need to build a throttle cable and re-plumb the old manifold heating pipes and shes good to go.

my yets are now driled to 150 from 135 and 132

accoriding to PVW write up on page 111 (the red mk1 polo)

There's a rough rule of thumb for setting up bike carbs, which states that the mm jet sizing equates to around the same as the engines capacity, for example 1.6mm jets should suit a 1.6 litre engine

For basic setting its not too bad but as most people have already done pre-requisite mods (cams/exhaust etc) plus the distance between jet and valves would most likely have an effect it really would only be rough estimate.

forget the middle cable of the coil plug. I was apparently way off with that one :lol:

on the original ECU plug you need connection 31 (5th in from the right on the bottom row) or if you cut/open up the ECU plug its the one with a red w/ black stripe wire on it.

now back to work.

Thanks to grunge and charlie (polo3) for input that got my mind around the problem.

hi there just got my new engine in my car and I'm running a 1.6 on r6 carbs in a mk3 polo,

we haven fully installed as we have a few teathing probs ????

1 , for the coil pack what is the green wire ,and the white wire 4 ??????

and i have got a fuel regulater pump 4 the car ,do i need a facet pump to???or will the regulator bring it down to a good psi????????

thanks :):):):)P

adam :)

what ignition system are you using?

fuel system setup depends on what method you intend to use for fuelling.

it is a auu single point injection system

and i have got a mk2polo loom the rest is wired in but plug (the tec)ant sure witch is power and wich is rev gage i think lol

I am still trying to get the tacho (rev counter) working on my GT with mk2 coil/ignition set up.

I have run a wire from the coil negative to the red and black wire behind the dash that connects to the clocks. The tacho worked but the I realised this was a +ve wire because my oil pressure light and buzzer came on!!

Can someone please tell me what wire I need to tap into.

Cheers

Tom

Tomgti: have you got bike carbs on it? this may sound daft but have you connected the oil pressure wires correctly?

You do have the right cable for the tacho so the issue must be elsewhere.

Fadomlarge: Have you got a full loom with ignition amp? Theres a picture on page 2/3 of the full loom, black goes to posative, green to negative (some have a little red/black stripe wire this is your tacho, if its not there the tacho feed goes to negative.

you have these fueling methods:

Get rid of the injection pump and use the pump from the same model bike as your carbs came from

Get rid of the injection pump and use a facet with a regulator.

keep the injection pump and run 2 regulators to drop the pressure down to around 3psi

keep injection pump and use a t-piece and create a loop system to trickle feed the carbs with back pressure.

Edited by Cymro

Cymro,

Thanks for this. yes, the car is on bike carbs.

I haven't touched the oil pressure wires, the car has always been a gt so wiring should be as is. I am puzzled at what it could be. Can you confirm that this red and black wire behind he dash is a negative wire then, I thought it was happening because I was running the wire from the negative terminal of the coil to a positive wire (red and black). Just wish there was a simple answer?!?

Thanks again, more advice / help much appreciated.

Tom

38mm are more than big enough for any 1.3, the CBR600's are 36.5mm and are fitted to Max_crox's 128bhp 1.4 16v as well as my 1.6 16v.

900's are good enough for a 2.0, so I'm sure they're okay for a 1.3. Especially given the valve sizing of the 8v small block Polo engine..

If you're not getting enough air through the carbs,its probably the opening rate of the flat slide throttles. Different springs are available,though i doctored mine. These also control the needle opening,so the jet sizing will have to be re-evaluated too.

nice I'm guna try cutting the springs to get it running right and eventualy get some the right size and compresion rating hopefully wont need re jeting as the jets were never touched when they were set up john at john sleath race cars sanded down the needle's to get the right fueling

what sort of timing is every one running on their gt's? mine was set at 24 degree's and made an extra 15bhp

38mm are more than big enough for any 1.3, the CBR600's are 36.5mm and are fitted to Max_crox's 128bhp 1.4 16v as well as my 1.6 16v.

900's are good enough for a 2.0, so I'm sure they're okay for a 1.3. Especially given the valve sizing of the 8v small block Polo engine..

If you're not getting enough air through the carbs,its probably the opening rate of the flat slide throttles. Different springs are available,though i doctored mine. These also control the needle opening,so the jet sizing will have to be re-evaluated too.

nice I'm guna try cutting the springs to get it running right and eventualy get some the right size and compresion rating hopefully wont need re jeting as the jets were never touched when they were set up john at john sleath race cars sanded down the needle's to get the right fueling

what sort of timing is every one running on their gt's? mine was set at 24 degree's and made an extra 15bhp

Hey peeps!!

Got a question for you all lol

This may have been covered Already but I'm half way through the conversion so need a quick

Solution lol

What have people done with the 2 plugs above the inlet ( oil pressure?) is it just a case of finding the corresponding wires and connecting them up??

Other than that everything else looks sweet!!!

Thanks allot

Rich

what the 2 oil pressure ones on the head?

i think i seperated them from the rest of the ecu loom and just kept the plug for all the inlet manifold wiring

glad u mentioned that actualy i ment to get rid of that plug and rewire it

what the 2 oil pressure ones on the head?

i think i seperated them from the rest of the ecu loom and just kept the plug for all the inlet manifold wiring

glad u mentioned that actualy i ment to get rid of that plug and rewire it

Ok cool thanks!!

Are there any other wires that you needed to connect??

I'm having a problem getting my fuel pump to work!

I've got the fuel system priming but hen after that there is nothing!! Have I missed a wire out somewhere?? I just have everything from the ecu unplugged at the moment!!

Thanks

Rich

hy mates

i have a question i make my mk4 work with bike carbs but i note something when i just turn key on fuel pump starts and pumping and from 1st carb there where is conected to manifold leaks fuel.soo is that normal that fuel leak in the manifold-valve hole when you just start pump without starting the engine?or i have done a mistake and i need to conect + of fuel pump somewere else on + so she will pump when the engine will trying start?

can anybody help me??pls

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