no fuel should leak out the carbs, the float chambers should fill which should stop fuel going into the carbs, and the excess should travel down your return line

please stop bumping the thread after a few hours, or even bumping this thread at all, people will reply when they can offer advice.

thanks

PS. TAKE THE CARBS TO A PROFESSIONAL!

ok then all my engine is in carbs on ect,

the car is now at the rolling road , but he says its really tarlky up to about 5000rpm then it dont go any more ???

he is trying to work out why , but can any 1 on here see what might stop it gaining power after 5k????

bigger main jets needed possibly?

he said some thing about fuel beeing good at 12/1,but it will rev past 5k but just drops off arter then .could it still be the jets

Can anybody help me out? I have got a 1.3 gt conversion in my mk2 I have got r6 bikecarbs on it atm. They run fine on tick over and when you rev it up once go to rev it up again it wants to die. Me and my dad reckon fuel starvation is the problem. What fuel pumps are people using on their cars and what sort of psi?

The pump I am using is a solid state one but don't know much about it because I got given it with the donor car so don't know if it is any good?

Any help would be appreciated

Tom

Can anybody help me out? I have got a 1.3 gt conversion in my mk2 I have got r6 bikecarbs on it atm. They run fine on tick over and when you rev it up once go to rev it up again it wants to die. Me and my dad reckon fuel starvation is the problem. What fuel pumps are people using on their cars and what sort of psi?

The pump I am using is a solid state one but don't know much about it because I got given it with the donor car so don't know if it is any good?

Any help would be appreciated

Tom

if i was u id definately use the pump off the r6 u got the bike carbs off

I'm running kawasaki zzr600 carbs and usining the fuel pump off the zzr an'all, its simple & easy to fit (doesn't use return fuel line, all you have to do is wire it up to a live feed wich only comes on when you turn your ignition on wich means you dont have to fit a switch for it, I've got my + wired to the coil and - earthed on the body), runs sweet as, you can pretty much garantee you have the correct pressure for the carbs as its the pump that ran them carbs originally on the bike so it would be perfectly suited to be honest.

also you may want to think about gettin the carbs jetted correctly to, might be wanting more fuel into the cylinders

Can anybody help me out? I have got a 1.3 gt conversion in my mk2 I have got r6 bikecarbs on it atm. They run fine on tick over and when you rev it up once go to rev it up again it wants to die. Me and my dad reckon fuel starvation is the problem. What fuel pumps are people using on their cars and what sort of psi?

The pump I am using is a solid state one but don't know much about it because I got given it with the donor car so don't know if it is any good?

Any help would be appreciated

Tom

if i was u id definately use the pump off the r6 u got the bike carbs off

I'm running kawasaki zzr600 carbs and usining the fuel pump off the zzr an'all, its simple & easy to fit (doesn't use return fuel line, all you have to do is wire it up to a live feed wich only comes on when you turn your ignition on wich means you dont have to fit a switch for it, I've got my + wired to the coil and - earthed on the body), runs sweet as, you can pretty much garantee you have the correct pressure for the carbs as its the pump that ran them carbs originally on the bike so it would be perfectly suited to be honest.

also you may want to think about gettin the carbs jetted correctly to, might be wanting more fuel into the cylinders

cheers for your help dude I'm using 148 size jets atm

Can anybody help me out? I have got a 1.3 gt conversion in my mk2 I have got r6 bikecarbs on it atm. They run fine on tick over and when you rev it up once go to rev it up again it wants to die. Me and my dad reckon fuel starvation is the problem. What fuel pumps are people using on their cars and what sort of psi?

The pump I am using is a solid state one but don't know much about it because I got given it with the donor car so don't know if it is any good?

Any help would be appreciated

Tom

if i was u id definately use the pump off the r6 u got the bike carbs off

I'm running kawasaki zzr600 carbs and usining the fuel pump off the zzr an'all, its simple & easy to fit (doesn't use return fuel line, all you have to do is wire it up to a live feed wich only comes on when you turn your ignition on wich means you dont have to fit a switch for it, I've got my + wired to the coil and - earthed on the body), runs sweet as, you can pretty much garantee you have the correct pressure for the carbs as its the pump that ran them carbs originally on the bike so it would be perfectly suited to be honest.

also you may want to think about gettin the carbs jetted correctly to, might be wanting more fuel into the cylinders

cheers for your help dude I'm using 148 size jets atm

no worries

sorry but i cant help u with jetting I've not got a clue on the jetting side of carbs, bogg bros did my jetting for me so dont know what size they need to be.

but anyway if u can get hold of the pump off the bike u got the carbs off u'll be in business its just so easy & effective, giv that a try 1st, need if not think theres a post somewhere in this section that tells you what size jet u need for r6 carbs or if u cannot be arsed to look for it giv bogg bros a bell (01944738234) theyve done loads of bike carb conversions so they will know what u need.

ok dude ill go with that ill get hold of bogg bros too

Does anyone know what the plug by the mk3 stock coil is for? just removing all the old unused wires and cant trace what this does.

thanks.

edit: its the rev counter feed.

Cymro,

Thanks for this. yes, the car is on bike carbs.

I haven't touched the oil pressure wires, the car has always been a gt so wiring should be as is. I am puzzled at what it could be. Can you confirm that this red and black wire behind he dash is a negative wire then, I thought it was happening because I was running the wire from the negative terminal of the coil to a positive wire (red and black). Just wish there was a simple answer?!?

Thanks again, more advice / help much appreciated.

Tom

the issue comes when you unplug the loom, you need to find the 2 wires that are the same colour as the ones from the sender/s and join them by-passing the plug, I made that mistake but i kept all the ecu loom in place so i could trace which 2 to join.

Edited 16 August, 201016 yr by Cymro

this links got some usefull advice

http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk/resources/t...4.tech60697.pdf

Edited 16 August, 201016 yr by PortsmouthBMX

ok then all my engine is in carbs on ect,

the car is now at the rolling road , but he says its really tarlky up to about 5000rpm then it dont go any more ???

he is trying to work out why , but can any 1 on here see what might stop it gaining power after 5k????

i had the same problem its the slides not opening fully i cut 4 coils off the springs that push the slides down now they open fully and makes good power top end now

also i need to connect my vac advance on my dizzy i was going to use one of those revotek take off things untill i saw the price not payin £18 plus vat and p+p f**k that

so does any one have a little bit of metal pipe the same as on the vac avanced dizzy's i can buy off them to weld in to my manifold please?

gaz

Gaz: you should take a feed from each cylinder so the dizzy gets a clear signal.

is t-piece method any good if running fuel regulator? just wondering whether this is going to help against overfuelling?

If you are running a regulator then as long as its set up at the right pressure then there is no need for the t-peice method.

what pressure would you recommend or should i just get it checked on a gas analyser?

is t-piece method any good if running fuel regulator? just wondering whether this is going to help against overfuelling?

If you are running a regulator then as long as its set up at the right pressure then there is no need for the t-peice method.

YES YES YES, use the t-piece, the carbs dont have return lines, and you do need one, otherwise you run a SERIOUS risk of fire, but will destroy your car, but could kill you and any passengers.

you have been warned, and i unfortunately speak from experience.

iv just noticed some thing weird just taken my car for mot (passed) but on my way there i noticed that when i go to change gear i.e clutch in and throttle fully closed the revs go through the roof then start to drop

iv had a god gander and the throttle pedal, cable ect are not sticking or oat

any one have an idea what it could be?

cheers

gaz

p.s. cheers for all the info about cutting the springs it pulls like a train now iv cut them and sorted outvac advance

forgot to mention its a 3f engine with cbr600 carbs

bet the throttles just not returning quick enough, you might need to try out a throttle wheel pulley with a hefty return spring,just some contraption to get the throttle to return as quick as possible.

i had the problem with sticky revs, with clutch in, before it would drop, so had to do slow gear changes to allow time for the revs to drop, too much play in the rotor arm, sorted by sticking a fresh rotor on.

could be a plethora of other things, what does your man jon sleath say about it

Edited 7 September, 201016 yr by grungeisdead

thats the thing it dont do it when its on the rollers mainly because he sticks it in 4th and slams the throttle down worn rotor arm sound like it could be the cause as I'm still using the one that came on the mk2 dizzy i have a new one so i will try that

it seems like the spring is plenty strong enough as the butterlies realy do slam shut as you let off the throttle

yeh I'm just running the standard honda throttle wheel with the cable held by a weber part cable adjuster. try a new rotor arm and dizzy cap, it costs pennies and its nice to be kind to your car!

is t-piece method any good if running fuel regulator? just wondering whether this is going to help against overfuelling?

If you are running a regulator then as long as its set up at the right pressure then there is no need for the t-peice method.

YES YES YES, use the t-piece, the carbs dont have return lines, and you do need one, otherwise you run a SERIOUS risk of fire, but will destroy your car, but could kill you and any passengers.

you have been warned, and i unfortunately speak from experience.

Why is this.. I know you had a fire in your golf but I thought that was from a backfire rather than not using the T-Peice method. I thought its the case that as long as you set the pressure regulator to a level that the carbs can cope with then its fine..

Saf will correct me if I'm wrong but I thought it was due to excess fuel leaking onto his heatwrapped exhaust manifold which caught fire once it got up to temperature?

excess fuel leaking out of the carb overflows, onto the heatwrap. not helped by the lack of return line. (twin 40s dont have a return, neither do most bike carbs, hence my choice to run a return line back to the tank, regardless of setup.

you could use a swirl pot in lieu of the t-piece and this would act as an accumulator for times of short supply of fuel to the carbs

had there been a return line, the floats would have filled, and the rest of the fuel would have gone down the return line, instead of the facet red top, continually shoving fuel down, at every failed attempt to start the car (flat b82res)

Edited 14 September, 201016 yr by grungeisdead