just read through this whole post and just want to get my facts straight...

Converting mk3 polo 1.05l to bike carbs...

1) 400cc bike carbs, any suggestions on bikes to take bits off?

2) facet low pressure fuel pump and ditch the in-line pump.

3) homemade manifold with an outlet for brake servo.

4) each branch on the manifold to have a nipple for vac advance for dizzy

5) mk2 polo dizzy, amp, and loom

6) daisy chain nipples together and connect to the vac advance on dizzy.

7) advance the timing a fair bit and get a good mixture from a gas analyzer.

Then away to bogg bro's to get it set up?

this about right?

My cars a bit of a banger and just want some laughs out of it and thought this might be a good party piece :)

Any replys would be great as i dont fancy it dying on me lmao.

Cheers

Andy

just noticed where bogg bro's is lol

any idea of a good carb tuners in either fife/ scotland or the bristol area lmao

just read through this whole post and just want to get my facts straight...

Converting mk3 polo 1.05l to bike carbs...

1) 400cc bike carbs, any suggestions on bikes to take bits off?

2) facet low pressure fuel pump and ditch the in-line pump.

3) homemade manifold with an outlet for brake servo.

4) each branch on the manifold to have a nipple for vac advance for dizzy

5) mk2 polo dizzy, amp, and loom

6) daisy chain nipples together and connect to the vac advance on dizzy.

7) advance the timing a fair bit and get a good mixture from a gas analyzer.

Then away to bogg bro's to get it set up?

this about right?

My cars a bit of a banger and just want some laughs out of it and thought this might be a good party piece :)

Any replys would be great as i dont fancy it dying on me lmao.

Cheers

Andy

1) any 400cc bike

2)You can keep the in-line and use the T-piece method

3)Yep

4 & 6) Yes, using one way valves on each port helps store vacuum, especially useful function if you have a servo (the vac advance dizzy still receives enough of a signal to work but pulsing the brakes quickly will cause a rough idle for a split second).

5) yep all those parts

7) Not necessary as such, depends on setup, timing should be roughly what it was before, gas analysers are not the ideal way for setting multiple carbs as it cannot show variations between cylinders just collective emissions there are only a few tools on the market that do that (Gunson ColourTune being one of them).

TBH the cost involved varies greatly as it depends on what you can do yourself, if you can source the parts cheap enough (price of carbs has rocketed in the last year).

Edited 15 September, 201016 yr by Cymro

will be making the manifold as i'm a submarine engineer, looking at ninja zxr400 carbs as they see quite cheap, i'll probably t-piece at the moment and keep the mk3 ignition on until i can find a mk2 setup and just take it easy.

I think i could knock out a mani for about a tenner as i have a tig welder available to me, and a mate can skim the face of the mani for nothing.

getting bike carbs for nothing as another mate works at a local motorcycle scrappies, so i think i could probably get everything done for under £200-£300.

after all I'm just getting it for noise atm and a bit of a laugh.

cheers for the info :)

where do people buy their jets from?? cheapish

Tom

its been said a few times in this thread... page 9-12 i think have a wee look, or get bogg bros to do it for you

when mine was set up we only sanded the needles down no need to change jets or oat like that just had them checked again as mine starts popin and farting after a minute or so at full throttle carbs were still set up perfect turned out to be trouble with the t-piece method of fueling not gettin enough fuel to the carbs so i think its time to fit the swirl pot and a higher flow rate pump as I'm still using the 1.0lt one

and as for the revs rising when i change gear cheers grungeisdead you were spot on with the rotor arm it near enough dropped out when i pulled the dizzy off

now the god damn water pumps gone :(

and as for the revs rising when i change gear cheers grungeisdead you were spot on with the rotor arm it near enough dropped out when i pulled the dizzy off

no worries

in all seriousness...

this thread is a deep deep well of knowledge!

half of it is on the edge of explicit material

I might have missed it in the thread but has anyone got the part numbers for the mk2 dizzy cap and rotor arm? I could do with renewing mine.

Cheers

gsf mate just tell them its for a mk2 polo as the ones that arnt vac advance are slightly different

Just found this, its pretty awesome!

Thought it may be of some use to people, it is going to be to me anyways

http://cr-xorg.readyhosting.com/cbr250/for...amp;whichpage=1

Obv, not all carbs are going to be identical but its a pretty damn good guide to re-furbing them yourself as it gives you a good idea of how it all should look.

Edited 4 October, 201015 yr by B-shaw

i have just bought a facet fuel pump and a fuel pressure regulator and just need to no

what is the best pressure to run bike carbs at on a 1.3gt engine with cbr 600's?

cheers

gaz

about 2-3psi, or at whatever the bike's pump is rated at.

about 2-3psi, or at whatever the bike's pump is rated at.

cheers mate

the pump iv bought is rated for 4 psi and good for cars up to 120bhp

i am putting bike carbs on my 1.0L mk3

i am getting the manifold made but i don't know where the servo vacume should go and the vacume for the dizzy.

Could you post some photos of your manifolds

The runners from your manifold will need a boss welding on each of them, then daisy chain these together and run this onto your dizzy.

As for the servo for the brakes , i dont know exactly what people have done, but originally, the signal is taken from the plenum chamber in the inlet manifold. so i dont know if taking it from just one runner will be strong enough.

Wait for someone who uses a servo to confirm what they have done mate.

i am putting bike carbs on my 1.0L mk3

i am getting the manifold made but i don't know where the servo vacume should go and the vacume for the dizzy.

Could you post some photos of your manifolds

Ideally you need a feed from all 4 ports.

If your engine generates enough vacuum then you can use the vac advance feed's to power the servo, i got warned away from only using a single port as it causes pulsing and can damage the servo.

When you daisy chain the vacuum take off's give each one a 1 way air valve, this will help create a store of vacuum in the pipe but still gives the Dizzy the pulse's it needs, there is then also a certain amount of vac available when you need it.

I've got 8mm tubes coming off each port with a fish tank airline one way valve on each feed (was supposed to be a temp solution but if it works...) then a t-piece one going to the dizzy the other going to an 8mm-14mm adapter and connecting to the servo pipe and tbh the brakes are better than they were before .

If i pulse the brake quickly at idle the engine does complain for a second but then idles back out.

Edited 27 October, 201015 yr by Cymro

Been heavily thinking about getting this done, will they pass a legit M.O.T though?

Mine qualifies for the emissions test for cars registered to 1992, but passes with such ease it'd probably pass a pre-'01 test. Cars under ten years old though,i dont know. Obviously this is with them set-up properly,and the right size carbs for the engine - if the most restrictive part is the carb due to its size,that'll get you the cleanest runner.

Dont mistake these for other types of carbs,older technology meant for cars,as flat-slide bike carbs are in another league on efficiency.

Once its at a rolling road do they whip the jets out and drill them out to get the best runner?

Or is it going to be a better idea to buy a few spares so that they can pick and choose between them.

And its been said before, this thread is an amazing source of knowledge! Cheers to all involved!

Just get a range of jets there cheap enough.

Gash pics of my set up, note lack of ecu and heater matrix :)

Ant

this in a mk3?

judging by the wing and brake servo, yes. :)

judging by the wing and brake servo, yes. :)

i thought that

so i though the vac for the servo had to be on the inlet manifold?

wheres he got his going to?

cheers