yeh its a mk3 bready GT, pm antoni and find out, tell him hes a clungedodger too

yeh its a mk3 bready GT, pm antoni and find out, tell him hes a clungedodger too

haha i will do

yeh its a mk3 bready GT, pm antoni and find out, tell him hes a clungedodger too

he replyed and said its on the bottom of his mani insteed of the top

he also said your nothing but a glorified toddler toucher and the only reason the police like him is that he drives slowly past schools !

mantoni knows me too well i sometimes dress up as a house, and make your children smell like hammers

if anyone is interested, i have manifold flanges for sale in the for sale section,

i spent a bit of time drawing this up in autocad for me to make my own manifold, and as i was getting one cut i figured i should get a few made so anyone else who wants one can save some time.

i've got them in 8mm thick so they should be fairly warp free when you weld up.

i've put them up for just over cost to me, just to cover my running around, so am not in this to make money. just to help out..

cheers..

will put a few pics of my own manifold when i get it finished...

cheers. dan.

Hopefully people will find this useful.

Bike ETKA

Ok, I've got my carbs running and I've got an issue with overheating. Its running at 100 degrees or so on the road, and to add insult to injury the radiator fan isnt coming on. The temperature and oil pressure sensors seem to be working but its not tripping the thermostat.

Anyone know what might be the cause?

cheers, ethan

Edited 9 March, 201115 yr by eth2190

Done my conversion now... all seems good.

Couple of issues though

1. Rev counter doesnt work, have tried just connecting the black and red wire from the old "coil" into the negative on the new one... no luck. Someone has mentioned putting it straight into the middle wire of the hall sender so i will be trying that next but if anyone knows for certain which wires you need on a mk3 please correct me!

2. Coolant temp doesnt work. Engine gets hot (left to idle for 15 mins) and the rad fan kicks in so i know its hot enough to register. I think the mk3 had 2 coolant sensors (may be the AFH that had 2 cant remember now!), i have kept the blue one and plugged the blue connector in. Again, can anyone confirm if this is right? I guess the best way to test is to get the other one and put it in a cup of tea and see if it registers! This is the one connected:

P.S Both have this fault with the ECU plugged in and disconnected so dont think its related to that!

EDIT: have removed photo to keep thread tidy

Edited 28 March, 201115 yr by shipleym701

What polo are these issues on? mk1-3/6n....

If its running at 100 when driving then it could be running very lean or theres an air lock in the pipes. With the fan issue it could be a loose connection or thermostat/fan has died

Shipley: You need the rev counter feed at the ecu plug (23 rings a bell, remove the plug boot and its red/black one), you also need the plug (brown?) mounted next to the mk3 coil plug in.

Temp gauge will be the black sender. Blue is ECU.

Cheers Cymro.

Took it to a rolling road and asked them to set it up... a few crossed wires later and turns out that what they did was make it work as it was.

Which means standard jets adjusted to be really rich which resulted in an average of 20mpg. Which cant be good!

Went for a chat with the RR guys after finding out this mpg figure... they said that there are about 6 settings controlling richness/lean. Like steps up and down.

Have stripped down the carbs and the jets just screw straight in with no adjustments etc... am i missing something?

Or have me and the RR guys got each other wrong.

Is the only richness adjustment the screw next to the fuel bowl?

Thanks again!

Sounds like they dont have a clue tbh.

What jets did they put in? Should be written on the side of the jet itself.

What carbs are they?

Oh balls... i always give the advice "buy cheap buy twice" but never listen to it myself! lol.

Well thats the thing... i think they left them as standard but they seem bigger than other people's standard jets.

They are 1994 CBR 600s and the jets are 142s. Or at least thats what it says on the top where the screwdriver slot is... not got anything written on the side. What do you reckon?

Think they have just bodged the fuel/air mix to make the 142s seem good enough?

EDIT: They are 142x2 and 144x2. The guy said they were the standard ones...

Edited 28 March, 201115 yr by shipleym701

My mains jets are all 180 but I know most others run much smaller ones than that but I get 35-40mpg all day long

There isnt really a way to bodge them as such unless they've drilled them out to a bigger size (which is normal), the air fuel screw is really only usable for setting the idle mix, the honda needles are adjustable so they may have shimmed it up a bit to aid fuelling and gone too far.

Give these guys a try and see what they say: http://www.rallytec.co.uk/

Edit: Just notice your running on the ECU, this could be one of your issues but then some people run vac advance at full advance. maybe the ecu is trying to retard or advance too much as its not getting all the sensor readings it needs.

Edited 28 March, 201115 yr by Cymro

Ah the needles... that sounds possible.

Do you know how to separate the needle from the plastic of the diaphram?

There is an o-ring and a washer but i dont see how i can get to them.

Hopefully il b able to see where they have adjusted this once its out and go from there.

BTW Cymro, I'm not running the ECU, i was just plugging it in further up the page to see if it helped with the rev counter thing (whic it didnt)

EDIT: You screw the bolt from the plastic cover into the top of it and pull it out that way. Can need a bit of force but it pops out eventually!

Edited 31 March, 201115 yr by shipleym701

Relation of engine size to Carb Size...

all of these are approximations but are roughly whats required

1/1.1 = 400-500cc

1.3/1.4 = 500-650cc

1.6 = 550-750cc

1.8 = 650-1100

2.0 = 1000-1300cc

T-piece fuelling...

If you plan on using the T-piece for fuelling your Carbs you wont need a regulator, once the carb floats close, all the pressure is sent back to the tank until the the bowls need topping up at which point it will "bleed" pressure off the main line until the floats close again.

Pump >=====>^Carb^>====> Return

Or variations of the above.

Edited 4 April, 201115 yr by Cymro

link

if i buy this carb for my 1.4 8v 6n will it do the job also do these carbs need airfilter or trumpits?

Having robbed a lot of great information from this thread I hope to pump a little back into it!

I'm no carb expert but figure the best thing to do is to play around and see how you get on!

So... strip down of the carbs, changing the jets and the jet needle settings.

First, unscrew the float bowl.

Remove the float by sliding out the pin and lifting the float out.

Unscrew the jet (obviously being very liberal with the carb cleaner)

Re-Assembly is the reverse of the removal! (with the new jets in if you're changing... I was changing from stock 142 x2 and 146x2 to 4 x 150s all bought from Allens performance, 16quid delivered so cant complain)

Flip the carbs over and remove the black plastic cover on the diaphrams, being ready for the spring to pop out.

Carefully slide out the diaphram-jet needle etc.

To remove the needle take a screw and screw it into the thread on th top of the diaphram and pull... it can be pretty tough but if the thread is in enough, you can apply some force to it without too many worries.

Then slide the needle out and you will notice the height settings.

The rule as I understand it is that the higher the washer, the leaner it runs. (very basic assumtion but i think its correct, feel free to jump in if not)

I was putting bigger jets in so went for a leaner setting as I was advised by "my man in the know"

Push the needle and everything back in, carefully placing the needle into the jet holder on the other side of the carbs.

Reassemble whilst still cleaning everything, make sure the spring seats properly.

DISCLAIMER: I AM NO CARB EXPERT, THESE CARBS ARE 1994 CBR600F. THINGS MAY BE DIFFERENT FOR OTHER MAKES/MODELS OF CARBS.

IF UNSURE, I WOULD RECCOMEND GETTING STUCK IN AND FINDING OUT BUT THIS WILL HOPEFULLY MAKE IT A SLIGHTLY LESS BLIND LEAP!

Good write up.

your right about the clip on the needle, the higher up its positioned the leaner the mix through the rev range.

This guys write up might be useful:

http://www.howmotorcycleswork.com/r6/index.htm

also a few pics of a carb nitrous setup.

dus anyone know where there is info on carbs for 1.4 8v aex i cant find any info on it all

all in this thread mate, this thread covers both mk3 and 6n engines as they require the same parts.

ok so anything on the mk3 its the same for the 6n? Iv been lookin in to making a homemade inlet mani

Yeah well the whole point is that you are removing basically all of the ECU/sensors/wires etc from the Mk1/2/3/4 etc

So once you do this to any car it is all the same as its just a engine in an empty engine bay.

All an engine needs is Fuel, Air and a Spark in simple terms.

Carbs/Mani provide Fuel and Air

Mk2 vac advance bits provide spark.

Can be applied to pretty much any engine within reason.

Hey guys, i have a mk3 1.3 GT, wanted to put carbs on it for a while so i went on ebay and found some 900CC fireblade carbs, i didnt know if these would be alright so i got in contact with Bogg Brothers LTD and they said they would be fine, i also came and looked on this thread and people were talking about dizzys so i asked the bogg brothers about it and they gave me a number of H&H Ignition Solutions which is the people they use for all there ignition kits, they told me they could send me a dizzy and a ignition kit which will make the conversion possible.

What i would like help with is:

1. Will the 900CC carbs be okay if i get them jetted and on a rolling road with the bogg brothers

2. Will this be everything i need to make the conversion possible?

3. Has anyone else used these companys and if so how did they get on?

Many Thanks to any help

Edited 19 April, 201115 yr by Pikey Pete

what is the reson its gotta be a Mk2 vac advance dizzy?

To control the retard/advance on the ignition, some people dont use the vac bit at all and lock the dizzy to full advance.

I use the vac so cant comment on the difference of not using it.