Shipley you legend, thanks for writing up your findings with the needles

I've always wondered how they adjust and now I know!

any one out there not running Mk2 vac advance dizzy whats it like to drive is it the same? also I'm looking for a inlet flangefor my 1.4 8v to start making the mani is there any other flanges that are the same as the 1.4 8v?

Shipley you legend, thanks for writing up your findings with the needles

I've always wondered how they adjust and now I know!

Not the same for every set of carbs. on mine you have to change the needle.

PB18: you can give it a go with the one you have. there was someone here running on his stock mk3 ecu, not sure what exactly happened to that.

Edited 26 April, 201115 yr by Cymro

I'm running the mk3 ecu, the car runs and is drivable daily.

You have to advance the timing alot so it performs well enough not to be boring, but at lower revs it likes to misfire.

My car only ran 17seconds at pod, down to the overfueling carbs, and crap timing, and the fact the carbs only work well when they reach the 3/4 jets (its pritty much like vtec kicking in :/ ) not bad overall seeing as i just slapeed carbs on the engine.

Definitly will invest in some smaller carbs, and mk2 ingnition when monies permits.

The only think keeping the carbs on the car at the moment is the noise!

Edited 26 April, 201115 yr by mattpolo5491

did you drill the jets out?

Jets a cheap enough, just check you get the right ones for your carbs. Most carbs use the same fittment.

If you have a bike shop nearby then if makes life a lot easier.

link

if i buy this can i weld tubing to fit the carbs to with no problems or is that for something els?

looks right. for that price you cant really complain.

think i mint get it to nite them and get it sorted iv been told i can run it wiv out a vac advance dizzy think i may do this till i got the money to buy 1

As i've been having some horrible fuelling issues with my stock mk3 1272 SPi (http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=244131&st=0), the idea of bike carbs has come to the front of my mind :-)

Reading through this thread is a bt confusing, but there is a lot of information - I've gleaned the following:

Carbs:

• CBR600 of ~94 vintage?

Fuelling:

• Original tank/pump/filter/hoses running flow and return to a swirl pot.
• Fuel line from swirl pot to original bike fuel pump (matching the carb) to T-Piece and return to Swirl Pot. Carbs take fuel from the T-Piece

Ignition:

• Vacuum Dizzy from a Mk2 Polo

Now the Ignition side is where I get lost. I assume this is a straight swap for the Dizzy on the 1.3 AAV engine?

From what people have said, the system will run on the MK3 ignition, but its far from ideal.

Why do you need to bin off things like the charcoal pot if the vacuum system is still in operation?

Apologies as i'm probabkly being intensely naive here :-)

Cheers

Tim

you can bin the charcoal cannister anyway as there useless after 5000miles.

Carbs can be any make or model but ideally around the 600cc mark.

Easiest method for fuel is T-piece is explained on pg3 (post 63) (literally turning the fuel tank into a swirlpot) as the carbs also have there own fuel bowls I doubt you will ever be cornering long enough for them to run dry.

Not quite as easy as just swapping the dizzy I'm afraid: you need the mk2 ignition loom (pic on page 1 & 3), Ignition Amp (pg3) and a cylinder type coil.

Hope that helps.

if i run my carbs wiv the 6n dizzy do i still need the mk2 loom or do i just use the one I'm the car as I'm thinking about the wires that wood go to the tb will be out of use so wood this affect the ecu in anyway?

your ecu will become reduntant, the dizzy will still work and create a spark but it will be uncontrolled if you get what i mean.

My wires are just left unpluged in they bay tucked away.

Depending how well your carbs work will depend wether the car will run/idle -

Mine currently takes about a minute to idle steadily, and the idle's beens set at 1500rpm, due to night driving the cars electrics sap alot of power, and the carbs struggle to sustian the revs if the idles set any lower.

As said no mk2 ingnition works, but I'm currently stuck with it till i can afford the full setup, which now has scence tax plasterd all over it.

Mine idles from the turn of the key with the vac advance. idle is set at 1100 with no lights on and drops to 1000 with every set of lights on, 950 with fan on 3.

Getting them to run at idle is the easy part, getting them to run properly while accelerating is a different matter. While carbs are a good bolt on option only a few people have setups that actually run properly, most setups are just bodged into being just able to run the engine with many complaints of poor fuelling, poor mpg, misfires & unreliable.

Mine idles from the turn of the key with the vac advance. idle is set at 1100 with no lights on and drops to 1000 with every set of lights on, 950 with fan on 3.

Getting them to run at idle is the easy part, getting them to run properly while accelerating is a different matter. While carbs are a good bolt on option only a few people have setups that actually run properly, most setups are just bodged into being just able to run the engine with many complaints of poor fuelling, poor mpg, misfires & unreliable.

so what will happen if iv got carbs and have my sub on full wack is the car gonna cut out? and is it gonna be a waste of time and money puting my carbs on my car?

OMG i just won a vac advace dizzy off ebay woo hoo bike carbs here i come.

Edited 7 May, 201115 yr by pb18

your sub wont realy do much to the revs (mine doesnt), its usualy lights and the fan the use the most power.

My setup is budget, but its runs well enough for my needs, and is hella fun after 4,5k revs.

Alot of people dont even use the vacume advance on the mk2 dizzys, my understanding is the dizzys have wieghts which newer ecu managed polo dizzys dont.

yep. you can get the dizzy re-weighted for a better curve but its a only out by a tiny amount, but as you said most people just fix the dizzy to full advance and it still sorts itself out enough.

Ideally we would all be running megasquirt or the like.

Afternoon all - there is so much info!!! i think i might have confused myself... but...

If it is possible - correct me if i am wrong...

i have a 1.3GT currently running 90bhp....

I will try and run, GSXR 750 carbs rejetted to 150... with a T-Piece in the fuel supply.

The inlet manifold i will try and make one out of the original - cut it all the way down etc and make it fit, and i can use the original injector holes once tapped to make a vacuum, 4 holes, 4 vacuums?

I have probably got this all wrong, but i have read so much info i have confused myself!!

Cheers guys :)

problem is with the Gt manifold is that the inlet ports face downwards, but its posibble. I had a crack at it with and angle grinder and gave up

Secondly, i would change the carbs to say 600cc, I have 750gsxrs and they overfuel badly, Not to sure what the jets are now though.

I personaly would stick to the reliable 90bhp you have though

So much banter,people jibbering shit. This topic should've been closed months ago,but it was never quite right thanks to people who either cant be arsed to read or just want their hand held.

Different carbs are different from one year to another - mine are CBR600RR's but I've carefully selected the needles from other carbs,the emulsion tubes have a custom pattern and quantity of holes,the jets are calculated for this actual engine only and probably wouldn't even be perfect any longer after a cambelt change.

This isn't a masking tape over a bicycle puncture job.

I've given a horse load of links in my first post of this topic,on page one. Read and inwardly digest them,then use that info just to get you to your local rolling road.

Failing that,walk to your nearest roundabout and walk around it until you get run over. It'll be similar,but less tedious,than chasing your tail with half-ideas of fitting carbs from any random bike available to your engine,then with it running like shit telling the world bike carbs drink fuel.. Etc.

problem is with the Gt manifold is that the inlet ports face downwards, but its posibble. I had a crack at it with and angle grinder and gave up

Secondly, i would change the carbs to say 600cc, I have 750gsxrs and they overfuel badly, Not to sure what the jets are now though.

I personaly would stick to the reliable 90bhp you have though

I will probably stick with those carba, get the right jets and see how it goes and let the RR advise me! lol....

I wouldn't say it was a reliable 90bhp! lol

can anyone tell me the mm bore of the fuel pipe and t peice needed for a polo gt on carbs? i need to order the fuel pipe but struggling to find the answer :(

which carbs have you got taylor?

my cbr600s take a 2x10mm ID pipe, but the fuel lines on the car were 8mm ID, so i needed a 1 x 8mm to 2 x 10mm t-piece adaptor for the carbs and then a 2 x 8mm to 1 x 10mm.

just measure the diameter of the fuel line on the carbs with a vernier

zxr600s iirc

I've ordered some 8mm but then i figured taht may not be the right size lol

i just got a 2m's of 8mm ID hose and 1m of 10mm ID hose, fannied about for ages trying to get the 8mm ID hose on the 10mm ID inlet but failed miserably and it would have fallen off, so just bought the proper hose.

as for your wiring, the carb wiring is pretty self contained, you just need to wire up your engine with your golf loom, for the starter motor, alternator etc

the coil and fuel pump can be powered via a relay which is switched on from the ignition switch, and the mk2 polo ignition wiring loom is completely standalone.

wheres the car? if you can get it to manc, we'll help you get it running, otherwise take a load of pics and ill point you in the right direction x