cars on my drive in bramhall lol

josh (one of chris' friends i belive) has got me the correct dizzy and ignition loom that I'm collecting tonight. I'm pretty sure with a bit of patience i should be able to get it runiing, dash is all done and wiered up now so thats half of it done

there is a spare live out of the back of the ignition switch anyway so can use that to power op the pump.. its all starting to make sense in my head now.. finally lol... rather that just being a box of wires. although i dont seem to have wiring for some of the sensors on my golf loom, like the water temp sensors on the themostat housing... ?

I'm sure it will get sorted

you need to keep your golfs engine loom, so you can connect your brake light switch, temp senders etc, and then just cut out all the redundant wiring (if the carb had pre-heaters etc)

if your using a polo engine now, and you have a golf engine before, it might just have sensors that grounded on the head as the theromostat take off was metal, if thats the case you need to run the wire for the temp sender, to a plug for your black temp sensor, and run another wire just to a grounding point (like a nut off the rocker cover)

you'll get sorted mush, I've moved into rileys unit, have a heavy all nighter on friday, boshing out the last jobs ont peril!

half my shit is still in there (used to be my unit too) i need my reg plate.. on the back wall near the nurburgring flag lol.

i keep remembering things lol

does anyone know how you attach the throttle cable to the bike carbs. or is it just a case of bodging it?

is your plate RPG RRRRRRRRPEEEEEEEEEGEEEEEEEEEEE?!

i fitted my throttle cable to the bike carbs using a bike cable, and putting a solderless nipple on the end, which fitted neatly in the throttle wheel on the carbs, the other end was fitted to the pedal using a weber throttle pedal block adaptor (fastroadcars sell these)

i kinda have no more money now lol, my camera broke at the weekend so i have to shell out £1700 before lemans in 2 weeks :(

so its a case of doing waht i can with what I've got for now.

and yup thats me... really poo golf or rocket propelled golf ... lol

or Rape n Pillage Goats (Just leave Lithy out of it, hes our lithuanian household goat!)

the solderless nipples were 99p, throttle linkage adaptor 2.99 and pedal block about 12 quid.

Wonder if anyone could inform me where to find some bolt-on cone filters for my gsxr600 carbs as I don't have trumpets?

hi, got my carbs on my mrk3 GT and the car is running just a few problems that i need sorting so please give me a hand with the following:

1. I have no rev counter as i have the ecu disconnected

2. Have a sticking throttle cable

3. I live in buckinghamshire and don fancy a 3/4 hour drive to bogg brothers to go on the rolling road so anyone know a more local place i can get the car properly set up?

Edited 29 May, 201115 yr by Pikey Pete

hi, got my carbs on my mrk3 GT and the car is running just a few problems that i need sorting so please give me a hand with the following:

1. I have no rev counter as i have the ecu disconnected

2. Have a sticking throttle cable

3. I live in buckinghamshire and don fancy a 3/4 hour drive to bogg brothers to go on the rolling road so anyone know a more local place i can get the car properly set up?

Unit 18 have a RR i think, and they are based in Milton Keynes...So not too far :)

ECU has nothing to do with the rev counter if it is running the Mk2 Coil.

Take the 2 wire plug from down behind the passenger headlight (and goes to the old coil) and get the small black and red wire from it.

Attatch it to the negative side of the coil.

Sticking throttle just needs a shit load of WD40 etc to lube it up/ clear out the grit and rubbish.

at least you have a throttle cable... haha

cool ill have a look see, well the cable is brand new so i dont think there is alot of grit in there

It depends on how you have fitted the throttle cable.

I bodged a bike cable in 1st time just to get it running, like litraly from pedal to carbs. didnt last and ended up snaping 2 miles from home. Manly due to the cable rubbing on parts of the body work and carbs.

Idealy you need the cable to have the outer plastic skin thing (dunno what its called ) to stop the cable from sticking and being jerky, and the cable needs to be as smooth as possible, no kinks ect or sharp bends.

Stick a picture up of your set up and it'll be alot easier to tell you whats wrong

how have you attached it to the throttle pedal? I simply jubilied clipped (x2) mine to the bottom of the pedal arm and it worked a treat and easy to adjust.

1. Id look at shortening the cable alot, and running it out to the left of your engine.

Picture 4 looks like it will have a bit of frition in that area, but doing the above should sort this.

I'm pritty sure your problems are due to the lenght of the cable, but you could also lube up inside the cable with some WD for extra measure, and try to remove the sharp bend where the cable meets your carbs.

2. Is the throttle return strong enough on your carbs? Mine wasnt and ment the the revs would stick. A good clean of the spring parts will help, but i had to use a extra spring hooked on part of the throttle lever to help it return to idle.

hope this helps :)

i have just droped an AEE in to my mk2 and i have a set of zx6r carbs are these good enough to tune up to run this engine ? and where can i get a safety cut out switch?

should be close, ideally 750's would be a closer match.

as for the cut off:

http://montehospital.net/shop/index.php?ma...products_id=999

If you raid a scrap yard Mk2 saxo's have the same unit mounted to the passenger suspension turret.

Edited 11 June, 201115 yr by Cymro

Just search inertia switch off eBay. You can pick one up for less than a tenner.

how have you attached it to the throttle pedal? I simply jubilied clipped (x2) mine to the bottom of the pedal arm and it worked a treat and easy to adjust.

1. Id look at shortening the cable alot, and running it out to the left of your engine.

Picture 4 looks like it will have a bit of frition in that area, but doing the above should sort this.

I'm pritty sure your problems are due to the lenght of the cable, but you could also lube up inside the cable with some WD for extra measure, and try to remove the sharp bend where the cable meets your carbs.

2. Is the throttle return strong enough on your carbs? Mine wasnt and ment the the revs would stick. A good clean of the spring parts will help, but i had to use a extra spring hooked on part of the throttle lever to help it return to idle.

hope this helps :)

Thanks for the advice

If i ran it to the left of the engine surely it would run real tight somthing like this:

Also could you upload a pic of your return cable cos i need one but dunno where to look/ what I'm looking for

ECU has nothing to do with the rev counter if it is running the Mk2 Coil.

Take the 2 wire plug from down behind the passenger headlight (and goes to the old coil) and get the small black and red wire from it.

Attatch it to the negative side of the coil.

Sticking throttle just needs a shit load of WD40 etc to lube it up/ clear out the grit and rubbish.

Back to my rev counter i had a look a last week and took some pics cos i dunno what I'm doing with wire and there is a few of um so if you could point me in the right direction i would be greatful

whats that silver thing in the top pic?

middle cable (should be red w/ black stripe) rev counter feed, connect to neg- side of coil

has anyone ran the standard dizzy (with electronic advance + ecu) and then gone to vacuum advanced?

was there much difference?

I'm just wondering as surely the remaining sensors on the engine will be able to detect and adjust the ignition timing to suit via the electronic advance? then ill still be able to run my immobiliser etc?

ECU timing on these engines is pretty basic and uses the RPM signal along with throttle position and Oxygen sensor (i think its used) to adjust.

Fitting carbs of course removes the TPS, could find a set of carbs with a Throttle position sensor and try to get the ECU to recognise that.

If you want carbs and an immobiliser then you need a aftermarket one which cuts fuel & spark.

EDIT: Just remembered there is a polo ECU that might work, think its either NZ or G40 there is a pipe from the manifold into the ECU. not sure how it would react to not running the injectors or boost (if its the /g40 one) but worth a try if you want to keep the electronic advance.

Failing that its Emerald/Megaspark territory.

Edited 16 June, 201115 yr by Cymro

what are these pipes along the bottom of my carbs ?are the an overflow