there water pipes. just undo the screw on the carb and pull them out.

Are they by any chance from a Kawasaki?

If so the jets needed for a 1.3 with zzr600 carbs are 180.

yeh they are kawasaki 600 keihin cvk's its goning on an AEE what jets would i need ?

not sure on what jets to use for my 1.6 aee any one know?

just been thinking...whats stoppin you from bolting a mk2 vac advanced dizzy on, and connecting it to the king lead off the standard management on a mk4? surely it will still be sending a current down the king lead, and then the dizzy will just advanced via vacuum instead of electronically?

also does the mk4 immob cut fuel or spark? or both?

:)

There's no need for the mk2 ignition if you don't want to use it. It just let's you get rid of the ecu and associated wiring.

so would me just fittin a vac advanced dizzy and keeping everything else the same work? minus unplugging injectors etc lol?

Think there is a need to swap the hall sender wires over, from memory i couldn't get a spark using a Vac dizzy with a mk3 ECU. TBH i would give it a go and see, cant see any harm in trying.

would it be okay to use washer jet piping for fueling as well, i was thinking of using it for the return mainly, but if i can use it through out would make things easier

Edit: Would it also be possible to run it without using the mk2 igniton setup and just use switches running from the battery?

Edited 10 July, 201115 yr by polomanphil

Probably not as it would most likely harden and go brittle, plus its only something like 2/3mm ID, fuel hose is about 8mm ID.

Cant justify enough the importance of doing things properly, especially where fuel and a hot engine are involved.

Edit: Nope as you would have nothing to create a spark. what is meant by ignition system is coil, amp, dizzy and loom.

Edited 10 July, 201115 yr by Cymro

Probably not as it would most likely harden and go brittle, plus its only something like 2/3mm ID, fuel hose is about 8mm ID.

Cant justify enough the importance of doing things properly, especially where fuel and a hot engine are involved.

Sweet cheers i thought it might react.

as for the switchs question that would be temp and i would want to run a fuel cut off switch just incase the worst ever happened

Instead of a keyed ignition then ye thats fine. depending on the car the ignition feeds are all ready in the engine bay so its just a case of finding the feed that is ignition on live and using it to trigger the coil and fuel pump relay.

I havnt really looked into the mk4 system, I'd just have thought the king lead would have a spark constantly going down it regardless, however maybe having so many other things unplugged it wouldn't. What is the 2/3 pin plug plugged onto a mk4 dizzy?

Oh sorry, silly moment. Plug on the dizzy is the hall sender ain't it, like the modern contact breaker, so it gives a ground to the primary coil or whatever. So it just depends if the ecu will allow that with no injectors/throttle body/map connected lol

ah I understand the need for the whole mk2 system now, the ecu might still and advanced the timing however it would be advanced by vacuum too.

So to put these on a mk4 I'd need to:

Use a mk2 ignition system, wire this to the wires from ignition switch? (like old school cars?)

I'd still want coolant temp/oil warning/brake warning/revs etc...so would I still need the ecu for these?

Little confused how id get the usual dash functions?

I've got a set of Keihin Carbs stamped VP. they are like some further back in this thread. I've got trumpets and 4 k& n filters to go over them, but as per the below pic there are 4 brass inlets on each carb - do I need a filter to go over them? in which case am I best off getting a bike airbox?

also, is there an advantage is connecting up the water pipes? The old manifold appears to have water running through it as does the pierburg carb. I think most people don't bother, but if there's an advantage I am happy to take the time to get it right.

does a mk2 vac advanced dizzy even fit onto a mk4 hydro head?

should do mate.

For reference: My mk3 GT wouldn't start up using a mk2 dizzy and mk3 ECU.

There's no need for the mk2 ignition if you don't want to use it. It just let's you get rid of the ecu and associated wiring

I've heard of people ditching the vacume advance, but they still use the mk2s dizzy, as any MPI/ecu controlled car loses ALL signals for the dizzy to advance/retard the ignition timing; when changing to bike carbs. So if I'm correct the timing stays at one set point, obviously this isnt ideal.

The mk2 dizzy uses weights if I remember correctly, which adjust the timing.

I ran my carbed mk3 using the mk3 dizzy and ECU, yes it ran and was nippy,but you could tell something was wrong and the car was lacking in potential power.

Which would have been a miss-matched spark.

Feel free to correct me, as I'm confused

Edited 12 July, 201115 yr by mattpolo5491

can anyone help with my post? :)

Yoo.

Got some carbs now...From a CBR 600, Keihin VP stamped on them.

They CV carbs (constant velocity?)

They have M5 thread jets...I assume I can use any M5 jets (was like this on the carb on my scooter?)

Jets in outer carbs are 138s, and the middle 2 are 140s.

Needle heights arn't adjustable so I might have to get some different ones but we shall see.

Needles are stamped EJ6CB.

I need to get some proper joining rubbers..anyone know where?

I got some of the reinforced silicone hose like MikeyMK has used, however the flange on the carbs is nowhere big enough to clamp onto?!

The tube..

Which is most annoying as it means I have to make more effort with the inlet manifold haha.

Also, just to clarify I have these connections right...

1 - Fuel in

2 - God knows, you blow it and the choke slides open but, but these open with the suck of the engine anyway..so blank off or leave to atmosphere?

3 - Overflows/vents? (route away from hot things?)

4 - Water connections (leave blank?)

Not sure if ill have to chop springs yet or not, I guess ill just have to see if the slides fully open at full RPM etc.

Thinking of putting some 165 jets in to be safe to begin with (1.6 engine) and Ill be getting one of them lambda readout things so I can keep an eye when I'm driving along.

I want to fit a facet fuel pump..or a bike one..but on a mk4..do I need to like gut the fuel sender unit so the fuel will be dragged straight through it via the new pump? Will be fitted with an inertia switch too.

With the vac advanced dizzys..it it just a mk2 polo one from any polo? Or do the bob weights etc vary between engines?

Also if anyone could PM me on how to eliminate the ECU and keep everything else working (I'm sure the mile counter is built into the ECU on a mk4?)

Thanks!

woooop mine is alive now.

i cant remember what the cure for the throttle cable was on a mk1 golf? anyone point me in the right direction?

just need to sort that then she will drive yey

harris.racing

1. fuel in

2. I'm sure its a breather of some sort (my carbs had a small filter to this when i got them) I left it unblocked and blocked it at times, neither made any difference, so like you siad id leave it to vent out.

3. Overflows like you said, when i removed my carbs and tipped them upside down fuel would spill out of them, id probably make a catch tank of some sort, or a pikey coke bottle.

4.Water connections, leave them blank (lloks like coolant residue or some sort where the pipes connect)

This is just my experence with carbs dont take my word for it

there rest of your questions like ditching the ECU are in this FAQ somewhere :)

Yeah thanks mate.

Anyone know about the wiring? Need more details etc regarding getting rid of ECU and wiring fuel pump and that :)

this was a good read...

http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk/files/legac...4.tech60697.pdf

this was a good read...

http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk/files/legac...4.tech60697.pdf

I gave up looking for that a while back when my laptop crashed and never woke up lol

nice one

+1 on the ecu it completley frying my brain trying to understand how binning it works

Edited 21 July, 201115 yr by polomanphil

3 psi fuel pressure lool.

I think I'm gonna get a bike fuel pump for mine...would it be worth fitting a gauge to check or just tpiece a return anyway?

Or run a facet 3-4psi pump no regulator or return :s are the bike pumps like push or pull? Ie mount by tank or in bay?

Guess I'll need to gut my standard fuel sender unit so the fuel would get dragged straight through it? :)