Most bike pumps switch off when carbs are full so no T-piece or regulator required.

T-piece uses either EFI pumps or the cars original pumps and creates a loop with the carbs on the take off, no regulator required.

Facets can be mounted anywhere but you would need a regulator, i doubt a facet would generate enough flow for a t-piece to work.

To ditch the ECU, unplug, remove bin lid, throw in. Find ignition live feed splice the trigger input for the Fuel relay into this so relay triggers when ignition is on. leave everything else in place. Connect red & black striped cable to the NEG on the coil for the rev counter.

You can also use this same trigger source to turn on/off a separate relay for the coil feed.

The mk2 ignition setup is fully stand alone and only needs to connect to ignition amp, coil, dizzy and power source.

Edited 24 July, 201115 yr by Cymro

Most bike pumps switch off when carbs are full so no T-piece or regulator required.

T-piece uses either EFI pumps or the cars original pumps and creates a loop with the carbs on the take off, no regulator required.

Facets can be mounted anywhere but you would need a regulator, i doubt a facet would generate enough flow for a t-piece to work.

That means I need a swirl pot then, right? Otherwise I run the risk of overfuelling? I thought a facet + t piece would be ok for bike carbs.

You can try a t-piece and see. chances are having the return pipe higher than the take off would give enough gravity pressure for the carbs.

The issue would be under fuelling not over due to low flow rate (while the t-piece system technically has 0 pressure in it relies on a decent flow to create back pressure), while the facet generates 3-4 psi the flow rates seem a little low to generate decent back pressure.

From looking at my mk2 I would be more inclined to use the fuel pump off the bike, they feed directly to the carbs and switch off when the bowls are full and back on when required and have the pull to bring fuel from the tank.

Ideally we could do with comments from someone who has already tried the facet with a t-piece as I've only ever used it with injection pumps on a car.

Edited 24 July, 201115 yr by Cymro

I'm using a facet and ditched my regulator for t piece yesterday, seems to work better in my opinion, no under/overfuelling depending on revs

Theres the answer then.

I'm using a facet and ditched my regulator for t piece yesterday, seems to work better in my opinion, no under/overfuelling depending on revs

cool man! which facet? I've got the low pressure one (black plastic body posi-flow 1.5-4psi) and plan on t-piecing to my cbr carbs.

I'm using a facet and ditched my regulator for t piece yesterday, seems to work better in my opinion, no under/overfuelling depending on revs

cool man! which facet? I've got the low pressure one (black plastic body posi-flow 1.5-4psi) and plan on t-piecing to my cbr carbs.

mines the metal one think its 4-5 ish psi, yours should be okay though. i was using my mechanical fuel pump on my old setup before i had a gt cam and that worked too and at a guess id say that was pretty low pressure

harris.racing, what are you doing for the filters on yours? You've got the same carbs as me. I'm wondering what to do with the little inlet jets that are outside the trumpets..

Well the main difference between yours and mine is..I have the black flanges that the airbox mounts to and holds the trumpets in place...do you have this?

I was either going to source 4 foam filters to sit on the ring on them (trumpet completely enclosed, and the brass jet things) around a 60mm diameter I think.

OR, buy one of those long K&N filters where you cut the backing plate to suit the carbs...blokes I work with build the R1 engine conversion kits for mini's, so they have a big supply of them kind of filters...but shall see, as they are quite shallow so the trumpets may not fit..might just go for 4 foam filters, but squeezing them in will be tight haha.

I'm seriously considering just running the standard fuel sender unit with a tpiece...it seems so much easier and the carbs will just take what they need...just makes sense to me? I dont really think its not a good way...might seem a pikey fix but it works and the flow will be plentiful...and saves money on pumps and regs, wiring etc :S

and @cymro...

is that wiring for a mk4 yea? lol...I thought I just had to use the ignition feed off the existing coil to the mk2 coil....and ground the fuel pump ground from the ECU?

Would this be for an early or late mk4 you were on about? Leeds finest has a later one (same as mine) and said the above..however you say diff? lol :)

#2 here...

you blow into it, the slides open..

fitted to an engine, the suction on the carbs opens up the slides with connection #2 just open to atmosphere...but seeing as you blow on it and the slides open, does this mean when its open to atmosphere its sucking?

therefore could i use it as the connection to brake vacuum?

hope someone understands what i mean lol?

nick

Right I looked into this...there is a vacuum drawn at the said connection #2, however that's only when the slides are opening up...which only open when the butterflies are opened, therefore I'd only have brakes/vacuum advanced when am on the throttle :p I know there's a one way valve on the brakes but doesn't seem the best of ideas connecting it there haha

Just to check.. I can use the original housing for the throttle cable, right? I just need a new inner (BMX brake cable will do I think?)

Is the old housing long enough?

Cheers.

houseing and cable were about 3inch's to short for my mine i just bought a 1.5m universal one and cut it down.

at the other end..where the outer casing sits in the bulkhead...what stops it from sliding through?

Right I looked into this...there is a vacuum drawn at the said connection #2, however that's only when the slides are opening up...which only open when the butterflies are opened, therefore I'd only have brakes/vacuum advanced when am on the throttle :p I know there's a one way valve on the brakes but doesn't seem the best of ideas connecting it there haha

Depends how much sucking its doing (i did try not to be crude ) if its creating enough vac to to power the servo all the time then use it.

Someone must know what the operating vacuum for the servo is.

TBH I'm sure that port is just connected to the airbox on the bike as a pressure reference.

so I've got a 6n 1.4 8v going to put it on bike pumps i need a late mk2 ignition to run the carbs?

Yep.

s'alright I'm just gonna use a tapin on the manifold...servos have a 1 way valve anyway...iirc about 3 pumps of the pedal loses the vac

s'alright I'm just gonna use a tapin on the manifold...servos have a 1 way valve anyway...iirc about 3 pumps of the pedal loses the vac

The easiest fix is a electric vac pump from a transit or certain diesel cars, no need for a servo take off then, the volvo one builds up vacuum then switches off, it kicks in then when required and its so powerful it could possibly suck a golf ball up a garden hose.

I did have a vacuum tank from a volvo i think to store vac so the pedal wouldnt go solid after 3 pumps but as 99% of the time your braking off throttle (butterfly's closed (Not taking those who left foot brake into account of course)) it was never an issue.

Edited 6 August, 201115 yr by Cymro

Does it matter what size engine the dizzys of the mk2 polo

Now that is a good question.

I would assume that the weights in the vac advance system might be different causing a different curve but that is one thing that has not been covered or thought of.

Is there a difference in part numbers between the 1.05 and 1.3 engines? Would check myself but I'm on a very slow mobile broadband connection.

If not then it should be safe to assume there the same regardless.

i thought this at the time...my dad said it might have been better getting one off a golf or something of higher cc's

Now that is a good question.

I would assume that the weights in the vac advance system might be different causing a different curve but that is one thing that has not been covered or thought of.

Is there a difference in part numbers between the 1.05 and 1.3 engines? Would check myself but I'm on a very slow mobile broadband connection.

If not then it should be safe to assume there the same regardless.

There are many different part no's

ignition distributor

(1) 052905205L ignition distributor / F 86-E-150 001>> / GT

(1) 036905205Q ignition distributor / use for 2 hole attachment: 052 905 289 A / HB:FORMEL E

(1) 052905205M ignition distributor / F 86-E-150 001>> / HK

(1) 052905237 X ignition distributor / to be used for: / F 86-E-150 001>> 052 905 205 M / HK

(1) 052905205F ignition distributor / F >> 86-E-150 000 / GL

(1) 052905205Q ignition distributor / F 86-E-150 001>> / GL

(1) 052905205H ignition distributor / F >> 86-E-150 000 / GK

(1) 052905205R ignition distributor / F 86-E-150 001>> / GK

(1) 030905205R ignition distributor / MH,NU,2G

(1) 030905237DX ignition distributor / to be used for: 030 905 205 R / MH,NU,2G

(1) 030905205Q ignition distributor / AAK,HZ

(1) 030905237EX ignition distributor / to be used for: 030 905 205 Q / AAK,HZ

(1) 030905205S ignition distributor / NZ

(1) 030905237FX ignition distributor / to be used for: 030 905 205 S / NZ

(1) 030905205T ignition distributor / 3F,PY

(1) 030905237 X ignition distributor / to be used for: 030 905 205 T / 3F,PY

ummm ye.....:confused: