Ok I had mine running this morning, but idling very high! Whats going on here? Wrong size jets?

the NU i have no idea, never heard of it. Definetly isn't a 1.05 or anything.

Might be the deisel?

The NU is a 1.3 hyd head, fitted to the Polo and others of the same era 1986~89 according to Autodata & ElsaWin

If you do make your own then you may get a few requests.

yeh i had seen the price for a pipercross one £195 I'm pretty sure i could knock one up lol

Does anyone know which is the idle screw and which is the mixture on keihin cvk's? Off a Suzuki bandit gsf600. It's ticking over way too high so I take it I turn down the idle screw a bit?

Does anyone know which is the idle screw and which is the mixture on keihin cvk's? Off a Suzuki bandit gsf600. It's ticking over way too high so I take it I turn down the idle screw a bit?

George, I can't remember on your particular carbs, but the idle adjustment tends to just be an adjustable throttle stop. Have a look in between the two central carbs where your throttle cable goes and see if the throttle wheel rests against a bolt. Turning the bolt should adjust the idle :-)

Glad to hear you got it running fella

the NU i have no idea, never heard of it. Definetly isn't a 1.05 or anything.

Might be the deisel?

The NU is a 1.3 hyd head, fitted to the Polo and others of the same era 1986~89 according to Autodata & ElsaWin

Never heard of that before

Does anyone know which is the idle screw and which is the mixture on keihin cvk's? Off a Suzuki bandit gsf600. It's ticking over way too high so I take it I turn down the idle screw a bit?

George, I can't remember on your particular carbs, but the idle adjustment tends to just be an adjustable throttle stop. Have a look in between the two central carbs where your throttle cable goes and see if the throttle wheel rests against a bolt. Turning the bolt should adjust the idle :-)

Glad to hear you got it running fella

Cheers arun will have a look when I get home. Yup its running! Will get her proper set up on RR soon as :-)

Ok, I apologise to those getting frustrated at everyone still asking all about this! I have spent a seriously long time thinking about this and reading the thread through and I'm simply after clarification I have it all correct.

I'm not a mechanical wiz, I have a basic understanding, so again I apologise if I'm being a retard (I feel all this apologising is necessary, due to some apparant annoyance in here at being asked the same over and over....)

Anyway, I have a 1.6 8v AEE 6n.

My shopping list consists of CBR600 carbs, a selection of jets and needles around the 150 and 900 mark, a custom manifold/a selection of sheet and tubing to make my own, an inline pressure regulator with a range between 1-3psi, fuel line hosing, vaccum hosing, mk.2 dizzy+amp+ignition loom.

I think thats all?

I was going to run a T piece return aswell as a regulator just to be safe, as I cant see this has any detrimental effects, and one guy seemed to think his car burnt to the floor because he didnt use a t piece...

So I connect the T to my fuel line into my bay (where the injectors were) with the regulator somewhere before set to around 2psi.

One side of the T feeds the fuel in side of the carbs, and the other side is connected to the return.

Carbs are fitted to the block via the manifold, which has a small "port" on each branch daisy chained together to feel the vac advance, I was going to fit a T to this also to feed my brake servo.

I need to fiddle with the springs in the sliders until I get them to fully open and full throttle and snap shut nicely.

And finally i need to set it up/get it set up on a RR using the selection of jets and needles I have, and fiddle with the ignition timing until it all runs spot on.

I appreciate the help, and really have put the time in trying to get my head round this! :)

Sounds like you've got it all srtaight in your head Tom You'll also need some sort of hosing to attach the carbs to the manifold :)

what carbs are people actually using? I'm sort of deciding against my cbr carbs (even though I've now stripped them down and cleaned them) as I'd like a set thats just the trumpets by itself - saves me mucking about with big expensive airboxes. My cbr carbs have got the silly little inlet tubes as well you see. Cheers,

Sounds like you've got it all srtaight in your head Tom You'll also need some sort of hosing to attach the carbs to the manifold :)

Cheers mate! Its taken me a while, but now seems far less complex than I thought it was... (I'm sure that opinion will be short lived once I begin!)

I was planning on trying to source the rubbers from the bike to connect the carbs to the manifold, if not I guess Il have to go with short sections of silicon hosing from samco or similar which wont deform under vaccum, and seal nicely.

Ok... so first question, no doubt of many, the fuel regulator, I'm planning on using my existing pump, and just using the regulator to get it down, but I'm sure I read that on 6ns, the injection system runs pretty high pressure (I'm sure it was measured in bar rather than psi...) however the regulator I want (and most that arent hugely expensive) seem to be designed for low pressure cars that ran carbs, or early injection and seem to say that the max. input pressure is around 8psi?

Can anyone shed any light? this is what I was looking at: LINK

If this is the case, could I simply disconnect the supply to my current fuel pump (I'm assuming its in tank?) and run a new low pressure pump inline somwhere?

Sorry if this has been covered already!

Edited 18 August, 201115 yr by Tom_

Sounds like you've got it all srtaight in your head Tom You'll also need some sort of hosing to attach the carbs to the manifold :)

Cheers mate! Its taken me a while, but now seems far less complex than I thought it was... (I'm sure that opinion will be short lived once I begin!)

I was planning on trying to source the rubbers from the bike to connect the carbs to the manifold, if not I guess Il have to go with short sections of silicon hosing from samco or similar which wont deform under vaccum, and seal nicely.

If you can source the bike rubbers then definitetly use them They, and the work needed to incorporate them onto the manifold, are worth the money as they'll save you loads of hassle in the future

I've seen a photo on here I swear of someone using a pipercross airbox like this one link

I plan on using one with one of their backing plates for my cbr 600 carbs.

Was just wondering which one the guy was using as I want to make sure I get the right size. (they are 68 quid so an expensive mistake!)

Cheers guys.

TOM:

subject has been covered to death.

You dont need a regulator with a t-piece, its t-piece OR regulator not both. How the method works is explained somewhere in this thread (pg 10-15 i think, this topic really needs an index )

Also if you getting a selection of needles and jets dont bother touching the springs (unless you also get a selection of springs)

Any questions just drop a PM and ill be happy to answer them.

Runforrestrun:

Should be the blank option as you will need to cut the holes to suit your carbs.

C6006 and depending on your trumpet length C603D or C604D

got myself a set of Keihin CVKs from a 600 Ninja.

They were spaced too narrowly for the ports on the cylinder head, so i spaced out the carbs and welded up my manifold ( will be using stock bike rubbers, and a home made flange )

NOW.

The throttle links between 1-2-3-4 carbs no longer operate, no problem, a little bit of modifying and thats sorted.

BUT, the fuel piping that fills the float bowls ( 1 x T Piece, 2 x Straight pieces ) is now too short, anyone shed any light on a solution?

thats exactly why i didnt space my carbs and am making a manifold with angled inlet tracts.

could you get some metal tpieces the right diameter with oring groves and cut and weld them to the correct carb spacing? or instead of a t piece between 2, use 90 deg fittings, then tpiece away from carbs?

This link may help bodylad

http://www.dwjenkins.plus.com/carb-details.htm

i could make some up as i have access to a lathe and such but dont really have the time!

DIY FTW.

Drill and a hacksaw blade haha.

Nah, i'll sort something :)

what you need to do, is know the measurements of the standard t's, then work out how much you extended the gap (accurately!) ie, measure it haha, then work out how much a longer t piece you need.

will be easy enough to do some lathing and such

I've not got any of my pieces to hand, but I've only spaced the carbs 6-7mm or so, between each carb, so yeah, it's hardly anything.

interesting article on how CV carbs work

http://www.bikerenews.com/Stories_Archives/Carburetors.html

and how atmospheric pressure without an airbox can affect the vacuum

http://www.rhinoforums.net/hunterworks/240...irbox-mods.html

Quick question i wanta do bike carbs on my 1.0 8v Aer I was reading a post on swdubz and it said you don't need the mk2 dizzy and loom etc us this right ? ? ?

So my under standing is I need a set carbs am bidding on set of cbr600s I need facet fuel + press reg and a manifold correct ???

Sorry if am asking silly question but you peeps no what your talking about so taut it best to ask yous

Edited 16 September, 201115 yr by doyler

I'm going to write a guide for fitting carbs onto a phase 2 mk4 once I have fitted them, to a phase 2 mk4. hahaha

Quick question i wanta do bike carbs on my 1.0 8v Aer I was reading a post on swdubz and it said you don't need the mk2 dizzy and loom etc us this right ? ? ?

So my under standing is I need a set carbs am bidding on set of cbr600s I need facet fuel + press reg and a manifold correct ???

Sorry if am asking silly question but you peeps no what your talking about so taut it best to ask yous

for 1l your looking at 400cc-500 carbs, you can t-piece the fuel system and keep the original pumps, either a home brew or professional one.

as for the dizzy it has been done as some types of ECU's only control the spark timing but most get rid of the ECU in favour of the mk2 setup.