Theres an earth which goes to batt ground, the loom plugs either side of coil, then you have an ignition feed to the live side of the coil.

plug goes to amp (mount this using specialist heatsink paste on the back before bolting up....people wonder why they burn out) other plug goes to hall sender on dizzy.

cant remember which is which but i think the green plug for coil is the ground side. for rev feed splice to centre wire on hall sender

Heres how I did it.

I bought my steel manifold plate from eBay for £20.

Went to my local powerflow exhaust place with the flange and the carbs (I put the silicon hoses on ready for the manifold)

Paid him £40 to weld some offcuts of stainless on to the manifold.

Got another mate to 'backfill' weld inside the lip, and bought a die grinder to smooth the inside of the weld so it would flow without any steps. Took my time getting this right. Heres a pic on the car.

Bought 4 of these from eBay link

And had them welded on to the manifold for vacuum advance. More on this later. Heres a pic.

I cleaned the CBR carbs up (have shared a link but here it is again) link

I decided quite early on that I wanted to use a proper filter, not socks, so the brass tubes could flow ok. So bought one of these from dubownerbilco as he no longer needed it. link

As the back face of the carbs wasn't flat, I had to make some spacers. Heres the carbs, note the step on the left.

I bought some nylon from eBay and after getting crafty with a dremel, and a drill, I made these, not pretty but functional.

Heres how, using the bike airbox as a template

And some neoprene rubber to make it air tight.

ready for air filter now!

Baseplate made out of 3mm alu for a few quid from eBay.

Made

Now for building it together.

It turned out with my air filter the carbs didn't fit as the filter fouled the master cylinder.

So I used longer silicon hose, not a good idea.

So I had the manifold extended, again with using my die grinder to smooth the welds on the inside.

After my mate welded it upside down (you'll notice it was designed to be a little upswept) and I cut it off and started again, it ended up like this.

I was happy with it as the carb ports were of course circular with a nice flow to oval on the engine end.

This time it all fitted ok..

I used a bike v-brake 'noodle' for the throttle cable and a weber pedal block on the pedal end.

Then my head snapped a valve after half a tank of fuel, (you've probably seen the thread so sharing it here is off topic) it ate the piston anyway.

So I swapped the engine and head and got it set up on the rolling road. There I learnt a few things, some of which I sort of knew.

In no order..

1. My fuel pump (low pressure facet) with t piece, gives 2.5 psi which is enough for the carbs at any revs

2. Both the big inlet hose in the middle of the CBR carbs, and the 'breather hose' for the top of the fuel chambers, can be left to atmosphere with no hose or filter required. They air for the ram air system on a bike. The guy explained to me that on a bike these are connected to the air box in a certain way so at super speed (over 100mph) the airbox creates positive pressure in the air above the fuel bowl which pushes fuel out of the chamber up the jet, and negative pressure above the slides which helps them stay open. For my application (non ram air) these are fine without a filter as there is no considerable amount of suck or blow on the hoses, although the must not be blocked for obvious reasons.

3. Vacuum advance is not required for our application. Centrifugal advance works fine. I could not get it to run right with vac advance as there was just too much vacuum at idle, and it would 'lag' under acceleration.

4.the guy tried to use his old mercury carb balancer kit but the vacuum at idle was too strong and he was scared it would blow his mercury out so he didn't balance them, I've yet to do that myself.

5.Although I had intended to run vac advance and ultimately haven't its real good that I put the stubs on the runners as I can use them for balancing.

6.the only tuning that was required to get fuelling/power right on the rollers was the right jets (I'm running 170s which are 1.7mm)

It ended up making 85hp at the wheels and 80 torque at 6000 rpm, he wasn't brave enough to take it up any faster at the time although I do now if I want some beans. The torque curve was pretty straight and the power line was straight too which I guess is the best result I could hope for. It will keep up with my mates mk2 golf gti 16v which I think is pretty awesome.

Am now running a catch tank for the crank case breather since that photo was taken.

More to come on this if I think of it.

Edited 11 January, 201214 yr by runforrestrun

hahaha jokes! I've got 145 jets in mine but thats it! the mixture screws still need adjusting it was showing a lil rich on the colourtune

right iv got a 14 16v afh and if just made my inlet manifold, got some cbr 600 carbs and a mk2 ignishion setup...only thing missing now is fuel..cand i use the fuel pump in the tank to run fuel to the engine bay have a t pice with one end going back to the tank and the other to my carbs?? mybe put a pressure reg in after the t pice to the carbs

right iv got a 14 16v afh and if just made my inlet manifold, got some cbr 600 carbs and a mk2 ignishion setup...only thing missing now is fuel..cand i use the fuel pump in the tank to run fuel to the engine bay have a t pice with one end going back to the tank and the other to my carbs?? mybe put a pressure reg in after the t pice to the carbs

or what bike fuel pumps have a pressure cut out in?

You can t piece and return yes. May have to bridge fuel pump relay to make it run constantly.

Pumps off any carbed bike should be fine IIRC, just a diaphragm pump with contact breakers

from what iv been told there r6 carbs

Do they say anything on them. They look similiar (I googled R6 carbs on google image) but the throttle wheel looks like its on the wrong end.

sorted, the fuel in was on the bottom near the float chambers. just got my throttle cable block so i shall see if she runs tnite

ok so carbs work and shes running. some questions, I'm running the standard fuel pump driven off the cam why is this unwise? I'm getting a hissing/tapping noise coming from the carbs, any ideas?

yeah look the same as my old r6 carbs

i used the standard mech fuel pump for a while before i got a gt cam, did the job.

hissing/tapping noise from the carbs? that sounds like one of your hoses connecting the carbs to the manifold are loose. put your fingers around/over the hoses and see if the noise changes ect

May have been asked before, but is there any way of hooking up bike carbs to prevent carb icing?

Wideboi: Those carbs should have CVK written on them as well. the carbs are the same as mine (but wheel on ZZR12's are in the middle)

Top pipes are vents (red), Waterlines (blue), fuel lines (yellow)

The suction noise could be a choke problem as its only when i use the choke for the 10/15 seconds after start up i here what your describing, once i release its fine.

May have been asked before, but is there any way of hooking up bike carbs to prevent carb icing?

you can, when you removed the water pipes for the inlet you fitt reducers to drop the pipe size to around 8mm. In wideboi's pics the one with blue lines on is for the coolant lines so you then just plumb into them.

Or the other option is to add some redex everytime you put fuel in, got the tip from a biker and been doing it since the temps dropped and not once had the carbs freeze or the engine cut out.

What actually freezes when they ice ?

the water vapour in the air, but it only happens with the throttle butterfly in a cruising position, something to do with the air flow, small throttle plate gap, low to high pressures.

But the one occasion i have suffered it the ice was around the needle/CV slide and had frozen it so gave a lean mis fire.

Bit like when you drain a compressor and the drain valve has ice forming on it.

Wideboi: Those carbs should have CVK written on them as well. the carbs are the same as mine (but wheel on ZZR12's are in the middle)

Top pipes are vents (red), Waterlines (blue), fuel lines (yellow)

The suction noise could be a choke problem as its only when i use the choke for the 10/15 seconds after start up i here what your describing, once i release its fine.

well I'm gona strip them down and clean them. been looking into the carbs and I'm gona see how big the jets are etc because they were set up for a saxo vtr. gona check were the needles are sitting aswell and bring it down a notch

Haha, water vapour = water injection, ...cold = cold air feed, icey carbs ftw :p I joke, Maybe me running an enclosed airbox tucked up the back of the bay prevents icing?

I need my choke to start, and is fine without, but it will tickover and run lean at like 600rpm if you take it off until its up to temp, so can either leave it on until warm or just rest foot on throttle when sitting at traffic lights, if not its fine, when its been ran it will start without choke :)

When you strip your carbs, ensure the same needles and such go into the same carb, as the inner 2 carbs usually have slightly different jets and needle profiles.

so after running these in for a few days they were defiantly over fueling as my eyes were burning with the fumes driving lol, also I'm getting a hissing/tapping noise coming from the carbs so i decided to learn how to strip these bad boys down. i did one carb at a time so i didn't mix everything up

so unscrew these four screws on top of the diaphragm cap, while keeping your finger down on it as there is a spring underneath

this is the spring

unluckily for me, whomever the idiot was that put these back together had not seated this diaphragm properly and now its creased :(

now to get the diaphragm out take the spring and needle out

well typically again whomever put these back together had placed these washers on top of the needles on 3 and underneath on one so i corrected that mistake

then you need to stick your finger inside and pull it out. do not rip this out, the only trouble you should have is with this little guy, you need to get underneath it and it should pop out

and it should come out

with everything out you can blast this side with carb cleaner *REMEMBER NEVER TO GET CARB CLEANER ON THE DIAPHRAGM AS IT WILL WARP THEM AND THEY WONT PERFORM*

now flip them round and start on the float bowl side

unscrew the four screws and lift the float bowl off, dont worry there are no springs or anything to watch out on this side

now remove the floats, there is a pin at the back of them, slide it out or like on my set there is a screw, just loosen it and they pop out, be gentle tho. on the underneath there is a little thingy mabob on the floats, dont loose this!!

now with the float out you've just got the main jet and pilot jet. the main jet is a 8mm so unscrew these out and the pilot jet is a flat head

now with these out you can clean the path ways

the big jet is the main jet and the small one is the pilot jet

with the jets out you can clean them, spray carb clean down them and use a thin wire or bristle to stick down them to free any gunk

now reverse the order and put them back together. they should run like brand new. if you have had these set up then dont play with the fuel screw or if you feel confident and want to clean inside, then tighten the screw in and count how many turns in there is, then thread them out and clean the holes. there is a spring, washer and an o ring on the fuel screw so be careful taking it out

hope this might help some beginners who want to strip there carbs down

Edited 5 February, 201214 yr by wideboi

Anyone fancy posting a picture of their pedal to cable assembly? I'm going to be doing mine soon and i want it to be as smooth a process as possible, although that may be asking a bit much with these polos and bike carbs lol.

Think it's fairly simple on a mk2, isn't the top of the pedal (ie vertical from where you put foot) where the standard cable mounts?

I know on a mk4 the pedal bends and the cable attaches the other side of the clutch pedal and it's awkward as hell!

I know what you mean about being fully prepared, I gave myself a weekend to swap an engine and do a carb conversion etc, ensured I'd got everything and planned it out :)

Think it's fairly simple on a mk2, isn't the top of the pedal (ie vertical from where you put foot) where the standard cable mounts?

I know on a mk4 the pedal bends and the cable attaches the other side of the clutch pedal and it's awkward as hell!

I know what you mean about being fully prepared, I gave myself a weekend to swap an engine and do a carb conversion etc, ensured I'd got everything and planned it out :)

Fair enough, ill have a proper look tomorrow and see if i can make a pedal block, £14 seems a bit steep for a block of metal with some holes in it...

Think ill get a bike cable, gear or brake, some outer and a 90 degree guide from a vee brake.

Not sure if my jet set up will get me from by dads house to bogg bros (2 hours). Ill have a look at the jets and maybe post them on here to compare to others.

I used a pedal block, might not be cheap but it was the only solution I could find.

Why do you need a pedal block? :) can you not just drill, or feed cable through an existing hole in pedal and use a solderless nipple to secure?

anyone got any specs of their jets on a 1.3 8v. main and pilot sizes?

Think me and a friend of mine may have utilised standard ignition by using a throttle position sensor.

Not VAG but theory should apply, can also advanced it if needed I think

My pedal is a hole drilled in the top of the arm (where the stock cable goes) then plastic sleeve to stop the cable rubbing, and a universal throttle cable, 2 solderless nipples either side of the drill hole. done.

anyone got any specs of their jets on a 1.3 8v. main and pilot sizes?

Depends on too many variables as every engine is different

Which 1.3 8v engine, what modifications, length on inlet runners, what carbs?

example mine has 180 mains but the same engine with cbr 600's would drown itself.

There is also a list somewhere of settings.

Haha, water vapour = water injection, ...cold = cold air feed, icey carbs ftw :p I joke, Maybe me running an enclosed airbox tucked up the back of the bay prevents icing?

I need my choke to start, and is fine without, but it will tickover and run lean at like 600rpm if you take it off until its up to temp, so can either leave it on until warm or just rest foot on throttle when sitting at traffic lights, if not its fine, when its been ran it will start without choke :)

When you strip your carbs, ensure the same needles and such go into the same carb, as the inner 2 carbs usually have slightly different jets and needle profiles.

Ye. i can get frost to form on my inlet manifold.

I need the choke first thing too, in winter hold foot on pedal so it sits at 2000 then once it starts to drop revs let off the choke but literally only needs it for 5-10 seconds.

Summer its pull choke, start, let go quickly (or it stalls )