My choke just increases idle not mixture to be honest, can pull it on going along and it doesn't really do anything.

You know that blanking the secondary air jets makes the carbs run richer too lol,

Put some CBR 600 carbs on my mates fiesta Zetec s, not driven yet but it's on stock jets with secondary airs blanked and it revs up crisp and doesn't go leaner than 14:1.

Need to reduce my main jets a touch, holds 12.5:1 under flat out acceleration

12.5-13.5 is full acceleration, theres no actual power 14-15 afr, 14.7 just means that all the fuel is burnt.

Turbo cars can benefit by a slight lean mixture on initial acceleration.

Shite MPG too haha

on yours?

flat out 12.7 (doesnt need it ), cruising 13.8-14.1, sudden foot to floor 15.5 then straight back to 12.7

On choke 10.5-11.5 (see 9.0 once) If i wait until the AFR is heated up before starting otherwise i miss that.

My choke doesn't seem to enrich?

Mines odd, flat it's about 12.5-13 but cruising and idle it varies

Where can i get a 1.45mm drill bit from then to drill my jets

Hell with drilling jets. Not worth it and it'll never be truly accurate. Give PDQ a call in slough, mail order jets - they are about £2 each!

Reet boys,

I know this may have been covered, but trying to filter the 6n 16v stuff out from the rest is proving to batter my head.

Basically, i'm looking at buying StinkyPete's Carb setup. I will have manifold, carbs, silicone joiner hose, hose clamps, filter socks.

So, as i understand it (or at least, i think i do) i can use my standard fuel pump, with either a swirl pot and a t to return, or a low pressure reg with a t to return.

I will also need a mk2 dizzy setup to provide ignition.

Correct? or can i keep the afh ecu to provide ignition?

Appologies again, i have skim read the thread, I'm at work til late and the firewall blocks all images so i cant see any of them. I can manage with all the fitting myself, its just I'm used to fuel injection, not carb, last carb i played with was a weber 32/34 on my nova 1.4, that was about 10 years ago!

Cheers.

PS, once i get everything sorted i will make a guide to fitting a mk4 as i think its all a bit lost in this thread, i think it would be benificial for a 16v thread to make it easier for people, like me, to find the info rather than trawling through 30 pages of info.

ta.

T piece will work yes, you may need to bridge fuel pump relay to keep it on with ignition.

You don't NEED a mk2 setup, but it will be better than the ECU, and ideally you need the dizzy modding OR stand alone ignition management (eg megajolt)

Low pressure pump and reg will work too, a bike pump is ideal as it just switches on and off with demand, two wires to it and a fuel feed, done - it's designed for the carbs.

Thanks for the reply. So as a bare minimum, what do i need to run, and what would be best?

Ie, what can i do to get it started and on the road, and then what can i buy bit by bit to make it perfect?

If i ditched the loom and ecu, would that not cock the speedo up? Like revs, oil etc etc? Or is it a case of wiring in a new tach and gauges?

Cheers again, appologies if this has been covered.

Depends. It will run on standard ECU but be pretty shit.

With the mk2 setup you need to wire revs and oil pressure IIRC

Your ECU Losses all signal from the engine when you run bike carbs, Not sure if some of the clock functions run of the ecu, like you said with oil ect.

My car ran ok on bike carbs (using the standard ingnition), it was my daily and it would start up and drive when ever i wanted. It ran 16.8 seconds and santa pod, so it was no where near it potential but it was faster than standard ( I personaly thought the engine was a bag of shite )

It was worth if just for the sound imo

If you use mk2 setup.

You need to wire in a rev feed

Speedo is hard wired

Fuel gauge is hard wired

Coolant gauge is hard wired

Oil pressure I can't get to work, I think it needs a rev feed and I spliced it too near the clocks so doesn't work, I need to look into that

The biggest mistake people make when fitting bike carbs is searching top power. I didn't find over 60mpg from a 1.4 by drilling fuck out of Bandit 1400 carbs..

Buy '99-01 Honda CBR600F-X carbs and drill the main jets to 1.40mm (two will alreay be 140's). Use MK2 1.3 ignition system and see an increase of 20-30% more economy, same for power at least, 500% better noise to make you a local celebrity, and get through an MoT without problems.

As for ties rest of your 6n's computer system, not my department.

Mikey, do you get good economy when using the induction noise though? or driving gently and economically?

mines poor on fuel using the noise, but quite good cruising along, saying that, I'm not lean enough to melt pistons i guess

The 8v's made the best noise, stock AEE is not for the shy, stock ABD is a little quieter but a better quality of sound. The 16v's are much quieter with a strangely wider sound.

It's hard not to play music especially in an 8v, drive in a way as to make it sound attractive, and drive inefficiently as a result.. Even when in 1st/2nd gear in housing estates or city centres, and only teasing the throttle, just to play music. Every metre of populated area cruising at 1200rpm in 4th just seems a waste.

I've taken video but it never works, the noise just gets nowhere near it. Haven't found a microphone to deal with it yet. You can't appreciate the sound unless you're there.

Here's a video that i feel gives at least some representation of the experience. It's only a 1.3 and it's GT cam isn't the best for sound (the AEE's torque cam gives it the violently punchy sound), plus the popping exhaust is annoying, but still that muscle car sound shines through to some extent (i don't know who it is, found it on the toob). It's slow, and he gets a hell of a lot of traction. It seems very mild, but i think the sound does just capture a weak taste of what it's like in there, more than i've managed..

The 8v's made the best noise, stock AEE is not for the shy, stock ABD is a little quieter but a better quality of sound. The 16v's are much quieter with a strangely wider sound.

It's hard not to play music especially in an 8v, drive in a way as to make it sound attractive, and drive inefficiently as a result.. Even when in 1st/2nd gear in housing estates or city centres, and only teasing the throttle, just to play music. Every metre of populated area cruising at 1200rpm in 4th just seems a waste.

I've taken video but it never works, the noise just gets nowhere near it. Haven't found a microphone to deal with it yet. You can't appreciate the sound unless you're there.

Here's a video that i feel gives at least some representation of the experience. It's only a 1.3 and it's GT cam isn't the best for sound (the AEE's torque cam gives it the violently punchy sound), plus the popping exhaust is annoying, but still that muscle car sound shines through to some extent (i don't know who it is, found it on the toob). It's slow, and he gets a hell of a lot of traction. It seems very mild, but i think the sound does just capture a weak taste of what it's like in there, more than i've managed..

that sounds well for a gt ... 180 jets are massive .. i've got 112.4s in my mikuni gsx'r 750 carbs. I'm not sure what to work off as a base. Trying to find a diagram for the 89 gsx'r carbs seems imposible..

Need to know if i can use a outlet for a vacume instead of drilling and tapping the manifold for the dizzy signal ..

Jet size does depend on the carbs. Mine are 180's on ZZR ones.

And no there is no vac at the outlets, unless tthe carbs have specific vac ports that would normally be used for balancing.

If its a mk3 you will also need vac for the brakes.

well theres pipes there but there all joined up and i think one goes to the top to the venture thingy caps lol .. I'll have to get a picture to explain mate, presuming these are just balacing ports i could use these for the dizzy signal ??

If there at the top then theres a chance they are vents. EDIT: Just looked are they little brass pipes sticking up at an angle on the head side of the carbs? if so then they could be the balancing ports and theres no reason not to take your feed from there.

Heres a useful link for everyone too, some brilliant tuning info there.

http://www.tuningmadeeasy.com/

I've seen alot of people saying that they bin off the ECU etc ..bit of a blond moment but where does the oil senders and temp sender wires go to then ? surley they run off through the ECU ( MK2f ) that is

Nope.

Wired direct to clocks.

Fuck the blue temp sender off, keep the black one.

Oil pressure is wired direct I believe, although I haven't checked as it needs it's 2000rpm signal from somewhere but may all be in the clocks ? Not sure come to think of it! Haha.

You'll probably have to manually wire a rev counter feed in

Yeah rev feed is just to the coil i think ..

I don't get why people have mixed opinions on this.

Some say coil negi some say don't use coil.

I used centre wire on hall sender for mine with no issues

I havnt got mine infront of me :/ but just guessing u spliced the wire and attacched it to the rev feed ?