Boys total mind blank.

My ignition loom has loads of other shit taped into it what I can't remember is for,

I should just have:

Large plug connected to amp

3 pin plug connected to dizzy hall sensor

Eyelet on black cable to ground

Black terminal at coil to ...?

Green terminal at coil to...?

Green is coil negative isn't it? And black the posi with an ignition feed to coil?

Really can't remember.

Is that it? I had another connection at coil for something which I dunno either! Got the feeling was to do with launch control

EDIT,

Fuck knows what my extra wire was, just checked launch control diagrams.

I know I had 3 things on the negi of coil and two on posi.

One of each was rev limiter

And as I write this I remember the extra cable was the ignition feed haha.

So black/green to on which terminal of coil?

Edited 22 July, 201214 yr by harris.racing

Id sleep on it Nick. as thats just confused the fuck out of me. I think the answers on page 1/2

Right. I have read through all of this near enough.

I'm pretty sure I've got my head rounds it.

Just to double check and potentially help others.

Is this about right for the T-Piece method? Obviously the inclusion of a standard fuel filter in assumed.

I am ok to use a GT High pressure pump for this?

Edited 5 August, 201214 yr by liam7316

Yesh

Yesh

Ace.

So I've got;

• a set of carbs jetted for a 1.3,

A manifold

Mk2 dizzy etc

I'm ready to crack on?

carbs will need rejetting/setting to suit YOUR engine.

Have you also got the ignition loom?

That picture is the best explanation of the T-piece ever. only thing is the servo needs to also be on all 4 runners as it too needs a constant vac pull and not the surging effect of a single port.

If its any help mine t's off the feed for the dizzy.

Every setup I've seen has only had the servo on one?

yep, supposedly it damages the servo having a one port feed, the same way that only running one line to the vac advance will damage that.

I was going to run it as a single but the engineer said it would just wreck the servo.

My brakes are fine with a single tapin.

There's also a one way valve to the servo. And it takes like 3 big pumps of the pedal to empty the servo.

When you're braking into a corner the engine will be on overrun creating most vacuum so your brakes will be fine

Meh servos are cheap to replace if it breaks, there's that many polos in scrappys hah

What happens to vacuum to the adjacent cylinders? Will you not just lose whatever vacuum was in one cylinder into the other ones because they're empty/atmos?

I kept saying this before. my setup has check valves on it and advances/retards fine.

Where'd you get your check valves?

I don't use vacuum advanced, but when I did with a valve and 4 tapins it broke 3 diaphragms on the dizzy so I gave up :)

carbs will need rejetting/setting to suit YOUR engine.

Have you also got the ignition loom?

That picture is the best explanation of the T-piece ever. only thing is the servo needs to also be on all 4 runners as it too needs a constant vac pull and not the surging effect of a single port.

If its any help mine t's off the feed for the dizzy.

Haven't quite got my head around the ignition enough to do a diagram yet haha.

And yeh i know it will need setting but will be close enough for the tine being to get it running etc.

Edited 6 August, 201214 yr by liam7316

That's gesh. Atleast you got your dizzy to bolt on!

Mine won't go anywhere near the slots! Can't run it backwards (so the mushroom is at the back) because it fouls the thermostat.

It runs lovely just where the slot ends. Hmms.

Mines virtually on the end of the slots. But I am running a lot of base timing.

Ignition is simple mate. Once you have the mk2 setup it's a doddle.

Large plug of the loom into ignition amp. You can mount the amp using the ECU/amp bracket, or bolt it to something (use heatsink paste on the back of it)

3 pin plug connects to the hall sensor on your distributor.

There's then an eyelet on the loom which needs to go to ground.

Two plugs for the ignition coil, black to positive, green to negative. You then need an ignition feed to the coil positive.

Rev feed, I'll let someone else answer that, iv always used the middle wire from the hall effect sensor on the dizzy. Others use the coil negative, I thought id try this and the rev counter wasn't very smooth, back on the hall sensor its flawless.

Nah, i've got that sorted, done 1000 miles in it, quite the thing.

But I've had to build a little metal bracket to get the dizzy far enough round, because if it's just on the end of the slot, it runs like a cow?

I'm gonna need a timing light tbh, have no idea what my base is, or if the dizzy is advancing enough - the springs seem awful heavy to come out at 1500rpm? (1/2 crank speed).

Where'd you get your check valves?

X2 and where exactly did you put them?

I've put 4 vacume take off's on the manifold . Whats the main reason people Sack off the vac advance ? is there a sutable size for the take off or does it really matter ?

I wish I ran it tbh. Drivability was a lot better

Okay. so mine's being a total bitch now! Can anyone get it to run within the adjustment slots?

Mine packed in today at GSF after I replaced the rotor arm. Yes, it was the same type. Had to get the GSF guy out to help turn the dizzy while i cranked it. Got it going, got home, although it had no torque, felt flat.

Messed around with it, and now it doesn't run at all!

Can anyone get it to run within the slots? Pictures?

I wish I ran it tbh. Drivability was a lot better

Cant you still run it :S? you've got the ports on the mani for it etc ? Which way should the dizzy run btw ? van advance sourcer at top ? or hall sender ..

Doesnt really matter if you swap leads etc but yeah

Nah the vacuum advanced part I side is locked to fixed and the saucer is blanked off, they removed it all when they reprofiled it, which is fine for Motorsport use when you're flat out etc but you lose that adaptability with loading.

Adam, iv had various dizzies and they all time up differently, one I had to file the slots to get like 8 deg base timing, but turning it 180 and swapping leads it would barely run.

Current one used to time up about mid adjustment, after being modded its virtually at full advanced slots wise.

My hall sensor plug is towards the front of the car

Mines apparently back to front. Lol.

Saucer is at the front on it.

Mine started to feel flat, more noise than usual, AFR reading 14.4 or higher all the time and the acceleration was shit, turned out my downpipe nuts had undone themselves. The little gap was enough to cause the carbs to run lean.

Bolted the whole lot back together and it was all fine.

I've got fish tank type check valves. Keep meaning to by proper fuel line type ones butive got a box of 100 of the others so I just replace them when they fail.