does the t piece flow straight through from the Fuel In-pipe in to the return with the feed to the carbs at 90degree's... have i got this right???

yep

SWEET! will be done tomo!

will this apply to the mk1 polo (I.E no facet pump/pressure reg. just the t-piece)

just out of interest what are those bits used for are they never actually needed on a bike carb setup's???

right... no joy on that one... fuel pump was attached to the head and ran off the cam from what i can figure now... so next i need to figure out what to do with my fuel return... have got a facet pump and king regulator....

would i still be on to a winner if i plumb in the fuel pump then run the same system with the t piece... baring in mind i would be mounting the fuel pump up front so fairly close to the t-piece.... also was planning to wire the pump directly to the coil... any advice or reasons not to do this...

cheers

Ad

If you have a pump and regulator, you don't need a T piece unless you want to run one.

I'd just put the pump in (coil is ok, but i prefer a switch so that i can have ignition with no pump) then regulator (1-3psi) into the carbs... Just block off the return to tank, unless your carbs have one?

New mk2 ignition wiring pic (found in an old post, thanks to Gaz) and note if the big white coil plug has a black/red cable on the other side thats the rev counter feed.

right got one step further... all set up but on turning the key all i got was....

starter motor with a very very slight chug.

then a big backfire

kinda sound u get if put the leads in the wrong order... not my suspicion is that this is...

too high fuel pressure or

timing way

your thoughts?

sounds like timing to me - ignition side of things.

i would disconnect the fuel feed for now and see if it cranks without fuel, if not then you can look into the mechanical parts. if it cranks then try dribbling a bit of fuel down the trumpets and i mean a little!

check timing marks, have you messed with dizzy? mine is twisted all the way over to the left as you look at it, (advanced) but that is an AFH on bike carbs.

is the battery fully charged? i also had a similar problem but then i hooked up jump leads to a mates car and it sparked into life.

list what you have done, your on cheshire dubs as well arent you?

Edited 6 September, 200917 yr by humer

yeah mate on chesh dubs, tryin to sort a meet soon... but not until this bad boy is running!

Its cranking with no fuel...

have put a coupe s dizzy (MH i think) on an AEA (1600 8v)

tried it all the way advanced/retarded not pissed around with it yet cos it was getting dark and had to do a few bits on the G ready for its daily duties!

u reckon just play around with the timing then? no idea what fuel pressure i'm running... just plugged the reg in as it came off the last car...but doesn't have a gauge or anything...

These your carbs,AD?

Yeah the brass fitting on the cylinder-three carb is the fuel input (arrowed),and those other tubes that go to a little T-peice must be blocked (simplest to just block the T,which is arrowed,or stub them short for neatness).

Do you not have two factory fuel lines to the tank? One in,one out. If so,you pump the fuel down the return line so the fuel is going around in circles.

Tank--filter--pump--tank.. Then a T peice between pump and tank. Then a pipe from the carb outlet to the T peice.

I dont know if the standard pump has the capacity to pressurise it enough to keep it pressured enough,but it will be if you use a swirl pot instead of the T peice - these were standard on the MK2,which fed the factory carb this way.

I favour the manual pump because it only feeds fuel when its needed,and cuts out in a crash (with the engine),its simples.

If you only have one line to the tank,which would surprise me,you'd use the regulator. The fuel route would be; Tank--filter--pump--regulator--carb. The pressure required will be regulated to like 1.5-2 psi.

There is more info at the link in my first post,but any more questions on your carbs - get a pic up of the offending component.

Starting with the bone dry carbs was an issue for me,the first ever time. I blew into the two vent outlets,which are probably near the top on the front. This blew fuel up the main jets and into the carbs - another way to put fuel in,as Humer suggested.

Then a pipe from the carb outlet to the T peice.

carb outlet? not inlet? why do the four pipes going to the mini t-piece need blocking? cant see that they even do anything... would a pic of the other side help?

is this anything to do with the back firing?

shout to mikeymk n humer... absolute legends for your help!

i couldnt work out what the ones that need blocking are. i assumed coolant feed but theres no out.

I thought they were servo feed at first,but they're the wrong side of the butterfly for vaccum. This from my 600s not having them,but my 900s do have. Suppose they could be used for nitrous.. But they're probably for a breather.

Having them unblocked would have a detramental effect on the air being drawn through the flat slides at low rpm,as they'd be allowing an air leak into the throttle body.

And yeah,i meant inlet - no outlets on these.

Nitrous....??? :-D

that could be fun :)

nitrous. . . . .hhhmmmmmm, sounds good, I'm considering turboing the AFH in mine. heard a rumour about a bolt on turbo, might have to give it a go.

G40 Ad, depending on my cash flow, ill try and get up and have a look at it with you if you want? drop me a PM with your mobile number if you want.

Rick

ummm..nitrous! lets just get he thing running...... for now!! will block off those pipes, re-do the fueling then and cross my fingers whilst i turn the key! only manged to sort a 4 branch on the zorst front so far... need to order myself a welder! have got a bodgey sidey somewhere off the taxi might tide me over!

would the level of back pressure have much of any impact on the carbs?

anyone changed the accellerator wheel for a larger item to give more travel/control in the pedal?

modifying it would hlep, i'be only iused mine with a standrdt r6 carb steup, not great.. But useble... if you can do i suppose?

You get used to the short travel pedal,but I've always been meaning to put a bigger pulley on the carb. I just keep forgetting, whenever I'm in the yard.

yeah sure i'll get used to it but will have to get on the look out... cant be to hard to make one... or have one made!

i just drilled a new hole in my pedal until i got full throttle and the jubilee clipped the cable in place, been okay for the last 1000 miles!

This months issue of retro car has a Mk3 Polo engine going into a Mk1 Polo with bike carbs. Total build less than £610 if I remember right...that includes engine, carbs, 4 branch, new clutch, fuel pump and a few other bits and pieces. It also mentions retaining the Mk3 Polo dizzy and using a Mk2 Golf 16v GTi ECU? I presume the ECU is left to deal with ignition and ignores fuelling or something?

just to let you guys know, just broke the 1500mile barrier on my carbs and Ime chuffing loving it !

Fuel economy is awesome and power is really smooth and consistent. I would heavily reccomend going to bogg bros and paying the £80 to have them set up properly though, makes a world of difference.

imo £80 doesn't seem a bad price for setting them up properly. Would consider it if I ever do the carb route again and boggbros wasn't so far away!