I take it you do have all 4

Top links wouldnt work.

By the looks of the ones I can see they are ZZR600's with a pulley on the left side and there should have a throttle position unit on the right bank.

In other news:

Keihin FCR's......

I take it you do have all 4

Top links wouldnt work.

By the looks of the ones I can see they are ZZR600's with a pulley on the left side and there should have a throttle position unit on the right bank.

In other news:

Keihin FCR's......

yea they do have the throttle position unit on the right hand side. think il just bang them on the car see how they run and go from there, cheers for the help!

Being a bif of a dumb ass I'm sure, but I don't want to break anything. How are the needles removed from the keihin CV carbs? I don't want to go digging in there with pliers only to damage the slide. I see there is a thread in the slide (looking from the vacuum side) and there's a spring pushing the needle 'forward'. I can't see how to remove it though. I've searched the net to no avail.

How much scope is there for tuning with the standard needles? Mine is rich throughout the range so I think I need to drop the needle. Failing that, I think I may need larger diameter needles.

Anyone recomend a place to get any?

Edited 12 January, 201313 yr by prankstar2003

You'll get it running a lot better on the standard ones, needle height effects isn't but not half as much as main jets do.

You can use a screw that holds the top caps on, screw that into the threaded plastic bit and pull it up, bit tight just be careful and not heavy handed, then the needle will fall out when you turn it over (watch for shims)

Reduce your main jets first though Simon, 150's perhaps

Although I wouldn't like to be sure it's rich, seeing you thought that before and was starvation :)

Edited 12 January, 201313 yr by harris.racing

I thought that was the way, but I didn't want to force it. I'll be more confident now that I know that's the proper way to do it.

I bought a range of jets from 150-140 and I have the orignal 135s (and I think some 138s from the new carbs). It is running very rich. As I said, the emissions were through the roof, it smells rich at all times and it's using loads of fuel. The starvation was down to the pump not supplying enough fuel. So i guess it would run rich until there was no fuel, at which point it would go lean for a few seconds. Although talking to a lad who used R1s on a Corsa the other day he had similar problems, but due to over fuelling? Either way, it is rich now. The plugs tell the same story. I'm yet to try the new jets however.

I was reading about fuelling the other day, and it was suggested the needles affect fuelling for most throttle positions. The carbs I have fitted now are from a race bike, so they may be rich needles

I had some carbs off a race bike, they had 107 main jets for a CBR 600, the air jets were blanked. Like I say it effects it a lot.

If I leaned my car out to make emissions good, you wouldn't be able to drive it as would be far too lean under any load. Mikey had the same issue. Emissions you're just using a tiny amount of throttle for the fast idle, so the needle probably isn't doing jack shit anyway. Idle you can adjust on the mixture screws. Ignition timing has a large effect too, so don't think you can set it up to pass emissions and it will be fine, driving around and revving a car in a garage are two totally different conditions

I hear what you're saying. Emissions were 3-4 times too high mind, and as I said, there are other indicators too (black plugs and all the other symptoms mentioned above). Although the guy didn't go 'flat out' when measuring, he used the throttle to take it way above fast idle (2-2.5k maybe).

Thanks the help, will attempt to get the needles out

Answered your other thread on needles mate.

Next plan:

All this talk of jet sizes.

There are three brands of jet, Keihin, Mikuni, and Dynojet.

Each have different numbers for the same internal diameter, so be sure what you're dealing with before you go changing them!

That, and on my AFH, standard jets are pretty much perfect. Just sayin'

Yeap, choose a brand and stick with it.

I remember your advice from last time nick, so I've bought with the same guy.

Are they turbo carbs Ceri?

You can boost ordinary bike carbs, you just need to pressurise above the diaphragm and the float bowls so the pressure differential remains the same with boost - using a pilot tube.

Eg 3psi fuel pressure NA @ 1.0 bar of boost you'd need 17.7psi

I remember your advice from last time nick, so I've bought with the same guy.

Are they turbo carbs Ceri?

There flat slide carbs. very pretty in a mechanical sort of way.

As harris said, turboing bike carbs is fairly easy. I've just been lazy and skint about getting my setup finished.

A Pitot tube sorts out the diaphram pressure diffrance. so the carbs work as if there at atmospheric pressure.

Does anyone know what size main jet you would run i a set of 400cc carbs for 1.0L?

I think it has 105 from standard but might be wrong.

I am planing on running it with the standard jet and going from there. But do you think 105 would be to lean/rich for a 1.0L?

The carbs are Mikuni. I think it already been said but were can i buy jets from?

Thanks

Does anyone know what size main jet you would run i a set of 400cc carbs for 1.0L?

I think it has 105 from standard but might be wrong.

I am planing on running it with the standard jet and going from there. But do you think 105 would be to lean/rich for a 1.0L?

The carbs are Mikuni. I think it already been said but were can i buy jets from?

Thanks

Depends on a few factors.

Manifold design

Trumpet Length

Filters

Other engine mods

Needle profiles emulsion tubes etc. hence why you need to know what engines doing or have a way of monitoring it

Useful info on jet sizes here.

http://www.vtxoa.com/forums/showthread.php...ize-Comparisons

For the record on my GT w/cbr600s I ran dynojet 170s, had 85whp, and regularly got 40mpg, and I didn't blank any of the emulsion tubes. Just made sure the carbs were clean and balanced, and found the best jets using an RR

Edited 16 January, 201313 yr by runforrestrun

Jim makes a very good point, stick to a jet supplier/type and do not change.

Back when I had a scooter, you could buy packs of 10 jets for around £8, so 4x8=£32, for 10 different sizes, as MinorConfusion says in the FAQ (who i seem to remember that username from a scooter forum actually) thats a lot of jets for the money, and plenty to play with.

I have Genuine keihin jets, two slightly different types (as that article says, more than the bore size effects it) Was running 125, bit lean, changed to 130, little rich, didnt have between so ordered new, slightly different type 128 size, and was leaner than 125. So if youre going to drill them, only drill them, as your drilling error will effect it. Dont drill to 1.5mm, then order dynojet 150, they'll most likely end up leaner.

16v's seem to need lesser size than 8v, they draw so much more air it just seems to drag the fuel through more too. There is a lot of varying factors unfortunately, therefore a way of monitoring, or decent knowledge is key, or of course just pay to have it done.

I wouldnt like to attempt to set one up without an AFR gauge, I know Mikey has, and also melted something, its a lot easier to see where you are on a gauge, you kind of need to be a bit at extremes to notice a difference between changes. You can sit at 17.5:1 AFR cruising and it wouldnt sound lean, yet doing that under full load and high revs would most likely end in disaster.

Allens performance sell genuine jets, but by the time youve added P&P it works out around £16 for 4 jets.

Is there a good place to get bike carbs set up in the north london area?

I know bogg bros is the best place but is a bit far to travel. I just need to know incase i fit it all and cannot get it running/jetted ok on my own.

Also where is the best place to buy jets from?

that is true about the 8v-16v thing. my wideband showed that the 145's in my 1.6 16v were fuelling in the right sorta area youd want, whereas to get the best out of my 8v, I've had to fit much bigger jets! you can tell by eye just how much bigger they are!

PDQ in slough, they will set you up on the RR and they sell jets too

PDQ in slough, they will set you up on the RR and they sell jets too

Thanks Hopfully i can get it running ok on my own but if not i will get it booked in there.

hello guys I'm getting a 1.4 8v engine and want to run it on bike carbs, i was wondering what carbs to get and what in will need to setup can anyone help ??

Seriously?

Read this entire thread and then post a question if you need it. It's all here already.