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Fitting bike carbs onto a mk2/3 & 6n

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Sounds stupid but is it on the right pipe and is it wired to pump in the right direction?

Ideally the pump should have its own feed from the battery, you can then control the relay on/off using the coil.

Depending on its location it might take a while to suck the fuel up to it. The pipe might also need priming to help with this . One solution might be a non return valve near the tank to stop the system draining down.

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  • Gash pics of my set up, note lack of ecu and heater matrix :) Ant

  • MiNoR cOnFuSiOn
    MiNoR cOnFuSiOn

    no, no and no.. you dont cut/bend springs... lots of people seem to like stretching there springs out (idiot superbike owners) thinking it will help with things... as far as springs go.. you want to

  • Then bigger,from a 600-900cc,though that's not to say bigger is better universally. They have vaccum-operated flat slides,which govern the throttle dependant of what the engine can draw at any time,so

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If you still have the standard mk4 sender unit fitted the pump won't draw fuel through that, which is written in the FAQ that it needs to be modified to suit

right its geting fuel now but its just pissing out the back of them

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this should really be added on the FAQ post, but oh well.

It looks like you are running fuuel into the top of the carbs, which is wrong, the fuel feed is at the bottom on CV carbs.

Connect the fuel line to the right place, then take it from there

haha cheers dude

I'm really confuesed i have a mk2 polo 1.0 i have just put a 1.3 gt in on bike carbs but dont know what hoses goes where there is also a bit on the inlet manifold is there a pipe what goes on there

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Have a look in the FAQ iirc they are for the inlet mani on your. 1.0L the gt stat housing doesn't have these. You could block them off or get the gt housing.

that port on your inlet manifold is for the Servo on a mk3, just block it off as the mk2 doesnt have servo assisted brakes.

Those 2 ports are for your interior heater matrix pipes.

  • 1 month later...

I have mk2 and now putting AFH in it with bike carbs and have some problems getting it running: Engine just dies when I touch gas pedal. The carbs had 155 main jets when I first tried it (came to me like that). Now they have 140's and still cant rev it, it idles ok and revs raise a little bit when give it choke, but still can't touch the gas... just dies. I tried the fueling with an aftermarket pump with "t-piece method" and also running it straight to carb inlet, but no difference. Now has bike pump that came with the carbs (previous owner ran it like this) and still the same problem.... Carbs are Keihin CVK from 600cc yamaha thundercat. I'm using mk2 ignition.

  • 2 weeks later...

After plenty of time reading this thread I'm preparing to fit my carbs at some point over the next week or so.

There is tons of information on CBR600 carbs and a fair bit on bandit, R6 and Kawasaki ones too, but seems to be little on GSXR SRAD 600 carbs so hopefully these pictures will be useful for someone looking in the future.

I think I've got this right based on what I've read in here but if someone with a working SRAD setup can confirm I'll amend the pictures as appropriate.

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Unusual to see only one fuel inlet shared for all four carbs, but picture suggests so. Fuel bath vent, yes. But pipe it far away from the ht leads! Or any other source of ignition. That is flammable gas right there, you don't wanna vent it straight to your ht leads!

Unusual to see only one fuel inlet shared for all four carbs, but picture suggests so. Fuel bath vent, yes. But pipe it far away from the ht leads! Or any other source of ignition. That is flammable gas right there, you don't wanna vent it straight to your ht leads!

It will be, don't worry - I'll run a hose from it down the back of the bay by a wheel arch.

Having a closer look, the parts I've labeled as water heating seem to be a vacuum system as they open next to the trumpets in each carb - presumably some sort of advance on the bike drawing straight from the airbox. I shall try and find out more...

  • 2 weeks later...

This guide is a goldmine of info. Followed it myself for my mk2 classic/AFH conversion and it runs perfectly on 150's albeit a little rich. Will try 145's next.

One question though, my carb slides rattle. You can hear them 'tinkling' away with windows down. Is this to be expected on Keihin CV's from a cbr600?

This guide is a goldmine of info. Followed it myself for my mk2 classic/AFH conversion and it runs perfectly on 150's albeit a little rich. Will try 145's next.

One question though, my carb slides rattle. You can hear them 'tinkling' away with windows down. Is this to be expected on Keihin CV's from a cbr600?

How sure are you that its the slides vic? My choke slider rattles a lot because its missing the polymer bushings that go under and above it.

This guide is a goldmine of info. Followed it myself for my mk2 classic/AFH conversion and it runs perfectly on 150's albeit a little rich. Will try 145's next.

One question though, my carb slides rattle. You can hear them 'tinkling' away with windows down. Is this to be expected on Keihin CV's from a cbr600?

Dont think I experience this, my slides are pretty rigid, little play in them, but then again the way the air flows with the 16v head might alter things

This guide is a goldmine of info. Followed it myself for my mk2 classic/AFH conversion and it runs perfectly on 150's albeit a little rich. Will try 145's next.

One question though, my carb slides rattle. You can hear them 'tinkling' away with windows down. Is this to be expected on Keihin CV's from a cbr600?

Dont think I experience this, my slides are pretty rigid, little play in them, but then again the way the air flows with the 16v head might alter things

Had time for a little more investigation today and it seems like the rattle is more likely to be the gearbox, which is slowly getting noisier and needs changing out. I'll update once the box has been swapped out for a quiet one.

This guide is a goldmine of info. Followed it myself for my mk2 classic/AFH conversion and it runs perfectly on 150's albeit a little rich. Will try 145's next.

One question though, my carb slides rattle. You can hear them 'tinkling' away with windows down. Is this to be expected on Keihin CV's from a cbr600?

Dont think I experience this, my slides are pretty rigid, little play in them, but then again the way the air flows with the 16v head might alter things

Had time for a little more investigation today and it seems like the rattle is more likely to be the gearbox, which is slowly getting noisier and needs changing out. I'll update once the box has been swapped out for a quiet one.

Something on mine is rattling too, only past circa 3.5k rpm, heard mostly on lift off etc. At first i thought it was the carb slider, but seems to be coming from the gearbox too.

  • 3 months later...

Hello!

After 2 readings of the whole thread and half internet, I'm still in a doubt.

My car has a GK carbed engine, will the stock diaphragm fuel pump on the camshaft sort the fuel with the T method? I've read issues with standard pump like overfueling at idle and starvation at high rpms... Maybe a FPR setted to 2psi can solve that? It's unnecesary? All people in this post are based in a previous EFI system...

For the carbs tuning, only read about the main jet... I think 145 will be a good starting point in a 1.3 8v, but what's the deal with the rest of settings? I found a Keihin graph to help tuning the carbs:

fcr_graphs.gif

Something have tried by herself to fine tuning with slow jets or needles? At the road, at the rollers with a wideband or another method?

Thanks in advance!

Can I use bike carbs on my 1.6 16v Gti and would I be better off with maybe a 750cc carb ?

  • 1 month later...

what kind of MPG would you expect from a well set up 600cc bike carb on a GT engine?

  • 3 months later...

Without wishing to be a massive retard I've tried reading this thread numerous times but answers still go amiss, lots of people do 1.4 16v's or in mk2's I want to do an 1.3 spi conversion, so I need to lose my ecu. Get a mk2 distributor and affiliated wiring, replace coil, distributor and install amp with heat sink on back if I remember correctly. Fueling! Either T piece and standard pump useable? or bike pump both wired off of the ignition, then run a Vacuum to servo, if I don't have a spare one on the manifold is t'ing into the distributor vacuum row criminal?

has anybody found a definitive yes no guide to the wiring regarding the dash lights and dials?

Sorry if it's all in the threads I've been reading the FAQ's every night and am trying my best to learn, just would like some definite answers to my question specific rather than assuming other peoples questions also work for me.

Many thanks in advance people

  • 4 weeks later...

Could anyone tell me is the inlet manifold on a mk3 coupe the same as a 6n inlet manifold

No it is not. The inlet manifolds are a different spacing in terms of bolt and port spacing.

Thanks

i have a small plastic facet fuel pump how do i wire it in do i use the 1 liter pump still in the tank then just wire the facet in after on a switchd live ???

thanks the afh is going into a 1 liter arosa

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