is that one ok if not i got some more pics

Edited 17 October, 200916 yr by mk2Al

cheers al, looking at your pic, your carb float bowls look at the wrong angle, the jubille clip by the bulkhead on the right in your pic, if your float bowls are at a right angle as your looks then the fuel will not be getting through to your carbs, the float in the float bowl will possibly be closed due to the angle, if you look at the picture in post . . 80. this should show how the carbs should be angled.

the carbs shown in post 80 are still angled too steep in some peoples oppinion, and mine, but seem to be working for Ant, the black caps on top of the carbs, if you float bowls are directly underneath then you have the wrong kind of carbs, but if they are at an angle you will have the right carbs.

hope that makes sense!

more pics of yours from the sides to show how the carbs are angled!

Rick

Edited 18 October, 200916 yr by humer

ok mate will try to sort out the angle and i will post another pic up for u but atmo it wont let me upload anymore is there a way round this. if i can't sort it out i have the car booked into dyno deamons on thursday but tht is the last resort if i can't get it sorted befor then.oh and u tell me the firing order as i mucked around wiith the ht leads when i put it on and it doesnt say in ma haynes manual

cheers

alex

Edited 18 October, 200916 yr by mk2Al

rotor arm turns anti clockwise and the firing order is 1342, i think no.1 is at 9 oclock posistion from memory, but may be wrong!

theoretically becuase of the angle of my carbs they shouldnt run properly, but they do for some reason, although I seem to have a different model of cbr 600's where my throttle linkage is in the centre

I have however been to bogg bros and they said it is all working perfectly when they set them up

Ant

well its good news boys i got the car just tickin over wen i put fuel down the carbs so i know tht the inlet manifold is all good and not leaking so i know i got the ht leads in the right places aswell cheers rick

i now know tht it is purley fuel not get through the carbs so i reacon the jets or chambers maybe blocked so do u guys think

alex

Have you adapted the cars to run on a car engine - i had to block an air corrector.

Have you adapted the cars to run on a car engine - i had to block an air corrector.

nope where is the air corrector lol

on my r6 carbs they were just inside the trumpet iirc- do a search through the older bike carb posts.

Does it matter which model/year of bike they came off?

Looking at the CBR600's there are a few different types/years.

I don't think it does to much really...

Mine were from a 92-94 (FS/FT) I think

Awesome!

I've got the ignition loom off the MK2 (the bit pictured a few pages back with the amp etc) and I've got the dizzy

Is there anything else i need off the MK2 before it gets scrapped.

I've taken the carb and inlet off too just encase, as well as the standard fuel pump. but I'm guessing I wont be needing these/anything off of these?

Also got all of the fuel hose i could off of it.

This is for a GT setup btw.

Ooo, something a mate bought up too. The rev limiter, is this done through the ECU or some other way? Because if the ECU is removed then it wont be there?

Sorry if that's a really daft question but I don't understand ECU's and things like this after tatting only with A-series mini engines in the past.

tachometer signal comes from the coil

you dont need anything bar the ignition module, dizzy, coil and the small loom that connects all that lot to the battery.

There are F2 carbs pre 94 and F3 carbs post 94, I have FS/FT CRB600s post 94, the only difference i really noted on the technical diagrams i could find is a waterway that connects the carbs up, bridged in the middle with and inlet and outlet on opposing sides.

I initialy thought these were vacuums as they were on the engine block side of the butterflies.

also you should ideally be using new fuel hose, robbing fuel hose off a 25 year old car is pikey as

Ahh awesome!

I'll flog the rest then.

As for the fuel lines, yes its probably best I do get new ones lol. But there good for emergency's.

Ahh awesome!

I'll flog the rest then.

As for the fuel lines, yes its probably best I do get new ones lol. But there good for emergency's.

I would stick to using the GT fuel hose as its larger than then Mk2 one. :)

Ahh ok cool.

max crox, When you get Bogg Brothers to make the inlets, do you need to send them the carbs? If so, do they set them up there so you can at least get the car running to get it to a RR?

Ahh ok cool.

max crox, When you get Bogg Brothers to make the inlets, do you need to send them the carbs? If so, do they set them up there so you can at least get the car running to get it to a RR?

Yep I sent them up to them. As you said they will set the carbs up so they run but they also strip them down and give them a clean. I think they charge £80 for clean and re-jet.

If I was you I would get the carbs to them as soon as possible!! :)

Do they take there time with it? Well, not take there time but I guess they are busy?

Tbh I've got months before I need it done (not starting the conversion until around May time)

As long as they are on my car by august ready for Germany all is good.

Well they quoted me 3-4 weeks and it took 10. I did get them back after 8 but they had to be sent back to them to take the bend out of the manifold. But every time I spoke to them they were good and the manifold is really well made. It just takes some chasing and waiting.

Ahh I can survive 10 weeks.

Get them sent just into the new year probably then hide them under the bed until I need them

Cheers for all the help guys. Chances are I'll be back nagging someone for help when I actually come to fitting them haha.

the old budget loon will be going to a new owner soon so i wont be posting much in here.

as she looked! great summer budget build that put loads of smiles per miles on my face!! will be missed

a quick help to anybody thinking about trying this. some thing to read and consider.

to carry out the conversion the simple way ( i was doing it for a couple of months fun driving - took roughly two weeks to complete) i put it on CBR600 bike carbs to illiminate the need for the ECU and injection set up from the mk4. so i basically only needed the engine.

i cannot remember what pics i have put on the build thread, but i started with a mk3 1.3 SPi car, bought a complete 6n 16v and removed the engine from both cars.

i then completely cut out he ECU after consulting the haynes manual and tracing the wiring i figured i no longer needed any of it except for two ignition feeds, one to the fuel pump relay and another to the coil, so i removed the steering column trim and connected two wires to the thick black wire, which comes live when ignition turned on, this then fed the coil and the fuel pump relay (two relays in passenger side plenum chamber - 1 for the hedgehog in the inlet manifold and one for the fuel pump - hedgehog one no longer needed!)

i re-used the standard inlet manifold from the 6N 16v, stripped the inlet manifold down (it all bolts together) and using the inlet pipes for each cylinder - they are made to point downwards,

i cut the inlet pipes down and turned them around so that they would point upwards, but found i didnt cut it short enough so the carbs were on too much of an angle,

i then cut them down again - around an inch from the flange. using the original inlet manifold i was able to mount my carbs cheaper and not worry about the cylinder head inlet port shape (shaped like a 3 leaf clover)

i had to tap the injector holes and turn down some ally, put a thread on the turned down ally and screw this into the injector holes to block them off, leaving one hole without a threaded ally filler as i used this for my brake servo and vacuum advance for the dizzy.

so this covered the wiring and the inlet manifold.

next i made up a plate to carry the weight of the engine onto two mounting points on the 6n engine, two holes at the bottom and twqo at the top, which would also hold the third bolt from the mk3 engine mount to prevent the mount cracking the casing of the block. so 5 holes into a piece of metal plate.

so this then meant i had the mounting sorted, the inlet sorted and the wiring (sort of) sorted.

next i mounted the mk3 Cl 8P gearbox onto the 16v engine using the 16v clutch and flywheel, as i couldnt find a late mk3 starter motor! so this meant i could use the mk4 6N 16v starter motor, but to get the gearbox to fit i had to tickle (grind) the edge of the O/S driveshaft flange on the gearbox to enable to the gearbox to fit around the flywheel. but only a tickle, nothing much.

so this had me with a gearbox mounted onto the engine, inlet manifold sorted, engine mount sorted. just one more job to do with the engine . . . alternator!

i had to fit the mk4 pulley to the mk3 alternator, this took a bit of cutting and fiddling - just get stuck in to get through this, couldnt explain here!

once the alternator was finished i trail fitted the engine - in and out about 7 or 8 times as you have to grind down the anti - roll bar bracket on the o/s to allow the alternator ribbed belt to pass the bracket -= by the way you need HB680G ribbed belt from halfords to get it to fit.

oh and a pushbike rear brake cable - figure out how to fit it, i drilled the accelerator pedal and jubilee clipped it to pedal. needs more work though.

once in it was a case of trial and error to get it set up and running.

connect carbs, check for spark, check for fuel and set up. i am a mechanic so have a fairly good idea what I'm upto, but i still think this is a fairly straight forward conversion!

parts needed.

CBR600 carbs - 40 quid off ebay

Yamaha YZF750 fuel pump - 10 quid off ebay

mk2 polo ignition system complete -

ignition amp, coil, dizzy and wiring - 55 quid off a club polo member

engine mounting plate

fuel pipe and t pieces - 15 quid-ish

struggling to think of much more!!

but ill try and help as much as possible!

Rick

enjoyed all the great posts and i found this very informative for carrying out my conversion. all the best to the carb people.

if i can help with anything drop me a pm.

Rick

Edited 26 October, 200916 yr by humer

www.shittestpicsever.com/orgasm

Now doing a group buy for 1.4 16v & 1.6 16v inlet manifolds for bike carbs & engine mounting plates for mk1-3 polos

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=168685

had a few pm's recently about tuning/jetting carbs so maybe it would be a good idea to post up our settings

1.3 gt engine with a straight through exhaust and a mild cam - cbr600 carbs - 155 main jet and mixture screw 2 1/4 turns out

Alot of people dont get how sensitive the mixture screws are either, view them as an hour clock as each 12th of a turn makes a major difference. clockwards leans the mixture anticlockwise richens

Ant