^^^

1st picture - Purple is the idle control, screw it in/out and the butterflies will move. Red is fuel, green is water heating (I think, or otherway round) Light greeny colour is just breathers. Blue is the throttle position sensor, don't need that so you can just take it off.

2nd picture - Yellow is the throttle wheel and where the cable goes through and tension is setup. Purple is the choke mechanism, should have a bit where a cable will attach to it.

3rd picture - Same as above.

Yes the throttle and all butterflies should move freely, yours are probably seized with grime and corrosion if it doesn't.

goose has got it right, the dark green as for water cool, you have the post 94 cbr600 carbs, same as mine, i ran with the water pipes disconnected but has since blocked them off, fuel breathers i have connected to nowt, removed TPS from the carbs as it was eaesier to fit the hoses and jubillees and its not need.

keep the bike airbox too but get filters if you dont have any already

Brilliant, thanks very much :-D Does anyone know if the cbr600 fuel pump is sufficient too?

What about that broken bit?

And finally, what did you use to block the pipes? hm.. i hate it when people ask this, but seeing as you have the same carbs as me, what sort of jet size range would you recommend for a moderately tuned gt? (aiming for nearly 100bhp). Just to get me to the rolling road... which is about 80 miles away

Anyone recommend anyone to set them up? Got a local rolling road who did some work for me recently but i obviously want someone with previous experience on bike carbs? As close to Bath/south west as possible :-D

Thanks again for all the help, really really helped me :-)

I'm pikey, i just used some screws to block the water pipes, and haven't set up my carbs, they ran sweet on the car out of the box, yes they will benefit from a rolling road sesh, and some jet fiddling but they ran fine in all portions of the rev range, no flat spots and hefty acceleration.

bogg bros are best but google rolling roads or look in the yellow pages and phone them all up, see what they say.

cbr600 fuel pump will be fine, carbs dont need much pressure and the broken bit, not sure what it does mate, there is an online bike catalogue if you do some googling that has exploded diagrams of the carbs

i think yours are CBR600 FS/FT F3's post 94

Thank you very much :-D

Just been on the phone to BoggBro's about getting the inlet made

For those interested, Its £200 for the inlet then £85 for them to clean and jet the carbs.

However, when you send it them they need some info, which is what brings me back here

They need to know if it needs a water pipe? I'm guessing this is because some have one running through the inlet?

Said something about a servo too? there was lots of loud noise going on so i thought id ask on here instead of repeating myself several times to them trying to get what they meant

So what info is it i need to give to them in regards to the water pipe? Does it need one on a GT?

Anything else that i would need to tell them?

Any help would be great

well on a mk3 , the brake servo vac pipe runs from the top right of the manny. On an SPI anyway. So yeh you will need one. I woudnt bother with a water pipe. He means than on a normal inlet manny, there are two pipes coming from the thermostat that run warm water around the manny. Mines been fine without.

Max

Cheers dude.

Does it make no difference at all then without the water pipe?

What is the reason behind it having one in the 1st place?

well tbh, i dont know if its for heating the inlet manifold or to cool it. Whatever the reason it cant be very efficient. And think about it most custom inlets dont use it. Dont worry.

Id just leave it.

Max

Ok cool cheers!

So thats it then, no water pipe but it needs the servo vac one?

What do you do with the water pipes that used to run through the mani? Just yam some pipe in the middle to connect the, or block um off?

You could use the GT thermostat i think. you could just loop the pipe.

I'm going to use the waterpipes on mine just to help in the cold (i know it wont help till warm).

Edited 26 January, 201016 yr by Cymro

Ok cool cheers!

So thats it then, no water pipe but it needs the servo vac one?

What do you do with the water pipes that used to run through the mani? Just yam some pipe in the middle to connect the, or block um off?

just put some pipe on the ends of the thermostat and then block them with some plugs or anything really, make sure there tightly plugged though becuase the cooling system is under pressure and you dont want it to blow open and spray everywhere.

and yep , you need to definetly use the vac pipe for brank servo or you will have hardly any brakes lol. to out it bluntly.

Max

If it makes no difference to price or anything i may as well keep the water pipe hadn't i? It cant make it any worse afterall

well if this manifold that they are making for you is a flange with pipes design , i cant see how they are gonna make you a water pipe to warm the manifold. ask them.

But if your not getting it then dont worry. I think its to warm the manifold not to cool it.

Max

A'hh I'll keep it simple and ask for it without

Seems that's what most have done.

Next on the list is to get my head around the fueling lol

This the correct fuel pump to be looking for?

Clicky

Or should i go for one with a higher psi?

Like this one...

Clicky

mate PM me and ill talk it through with you.

Max

I'm really confused by this;

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...62492&st=50

That guy is running carbs with the standard MK3 ecu and dizzy....

discuss

toby i thought you were a bit smarter than your making out above?!

you wont need water pipes for your manifold, they were to warm the carb up in very cold days, normally twinned with a hedgehog heater as well. It wouldnt be feasible to incorporate these into the inlet manifold for bike carbs.

However CBR600 post 94 FS/FT carbs have water pipes within the jackets of the carbs, so you could retain water heating for the carbs if required, mine ran fine though even in freezing conditions and just needed 20 seconds with the choke on.

You would ideally want 4 vacuum lines on the inlet, 1 off each runner, these can be daisy-chained though a paper fuel filter to smooth out the pulse flow for a vacuum advance dizzy, rather than taking the feed off one port only.

you will need an extra port for the mk3 servo, mk2s dont have these. its possible to get rid of this all together and use a small pump to create a servo for the brakes, horses for courses really.

and if you really wish to get one made up easily, I'm sure bogg bros will have Max_crox's template as could make one from that, whether that would push costs down I'm not sure.

Boggbros manis are proper nice pieces of work, but 200 quid is alot of money, i could get a pikey one made up for 50 quid, which would be more than up to the job, but I've just been too lazy / pre-occupied to sort it out.

as for running a mk3 ignition setup while on carbs, iirc the dizzys are not vacuum advanced, therefore your engine will lean out at higher revs, i cant imagine the car running too well that way, but even so, with the mk2 polo electronic ignition, the advance curve doesnt match the engines properly, but to have the dizzy recurved or to go down the megasquirt route will cost you extra pennies (well more like pounds)

PS. Either of those fuel pumps are fine, I have the 2nd, mikeyMk has the first, both have more than enough pressure and your only going to be pumping the fuel in a loop with the carbs effectively being drip fed off the back-pressure.

How well will just using the standard intank lift pump to fuel the carbs using the t piece method?

I'm really confused by this;

http://www.clubpolo.co.uk/forum/index.php?...62492&st=50

That guy is running carbs with the standard MK3 ecu and dizzy....

discuss

I wondered that too. As if it were possible to make it run properly then I'm sure others would have done it.

Grunge: Is it even possible to run a mk2 vac dizzy on a mk3 ecu system?

The hall sender plugs are the same, and except for vac advance. i assume that the internals are also diffrent weights/trigger plates etc. (dont fancy dismantling either of mine).

I wouldn't do it anyway as i believe the round type coils gives a better/stronger spark anyway.

Wouldn't the ecu take care of the advance curve in the vacuumless dizzys

o3-sellick. Thanks for posting those pictures it has really helped me out! Only..I'm kinda stuck with mine now. With the help you recieved i've managed to identify the fuel pipe and water pipes. But my carbs have three extra pipes/tubes coming out under the carb airbox. There are two smaller tubes and the biggest one which is situated in the middle of the 4 carbs. I know its difficult without pictures was hoping someone might know.

Its full of infomation ect but i am getting confused with all the opinions.

Don't think I'm daft becuase I'm not :-D

I want to know - I will start the list

All the bits i need:

Bike carbs 600cc,

Ignition setup from a mk2 polo,

Fuel pump,

Manifold.

I have upto yet some CBR 600cc carbs, and a Yamaha R6 fuel pump. Id have prefered a R1 pump due to them having a interrupter but hey.

Does the standard car fuel pump render obsolete when your fitting a pump that will run at the correct pressure? Then obviously the lift pump still feeds the new pump the same.

And how do you go about the fuel return ?

Any help much appreciated

aaww man! I've just checked my jets and there 138/140.. so will this mean there off a 900? i knew they wasnt as described when i realised they had coolant tubes(supposed to be off an 89 cbr600 fw)

What do i do now? can these be used on a mk1 golf driver 1272 GF? replace jet and needles?